OlGeezer Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Can someone point me to a good step-by-step tutorial on changing the throttle cables and Bowden box? Thank you, Link to comment
dan cata Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Hope it helps http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/GS%20throttle%20cable%20swap.html Dan. Link to comment
OoPEZoO Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Don't know how much it will help, but here is a link back to when I replaced mine (along with a bunch of other stuff) LINK Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Thanks, Keith. Link to comment
OoPEZoO Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Cool, scream if you run into any problems Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Just curious, but what would you say the degree of difficulty is, from 1 being changing the oil to 5 being the most difficult thing you’ve ever done on your BMW? I got some interesting responses from two pro wrenches today. One guy, an independent, said he wouldn’t do it because he said he would have to remove the servo in order to remove the Bowden box. I told him I’ve seen pictures where folks slipped it out from below. He said he is aware of that technique, but he has never been successful at doing that. He didn’t want to remove the servo because he said he didn’t have the equipment to bleed the brakes. I told him that even I’ve bled the brakes. He knows my skill level. He was surprised. Next, I called a local BMW dealer. He quoted me 3.5 mh or $331. I am more than a little apprehensive about tearing my bike apart only to find that I don’t have a prayer in putting it back together. Still, I don’t have $331 lying around with nothing to do. Link to comment
awagnon Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 It isn't difficult, just tedious and many steps involved. You don't have to remove the servo. The Bowden box slides out the right side from under the battery area. That's the hardest part. It just sometimes doesn't want to slide out. I'm sending you a PM. Link to comment
awagnon Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Hey, OlGeezer, The reason for the PM was to email a copy of a seminar handout on throttle cable replacement done on an RT. This was given by a BMW master mechanic at an independent shop that used to do tech sessions in the winter when business was slow. Anyway, I found a link to the seminar. I hope you find it useful. There are some other seminar handouts on the same web site which I'll add. Also, you might want to get a copy of the "official" BMW shop manual ( on CD ) for the 2002 RT. I find it much better than the aftermarket shop manuals. List of tech articles: http://bavarianmotorcycleworkshop.com/tech-articles Link to throttle cable seminar: http://bavarianmotorcycleworkshop.com/tech-articles/throttle-cable-seminar-for-bmw-motorcycles Good wrenching, Al Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 It's not hard. If you can get the tank off you can do a cable replacement. IF you cna do a throttle body synch, you can get the cables adjusted correctly. Here are two tips. First, BMW changed the upper cable within the past two years. If you don't have the updated cable you need to buy an updated cable and a few extra small plastic parts that go around the throttle housing. The MaxBMW fiche explains it pretty well. Second, don't touch the fast idle cable. Let me tell you that again. DON'T TOUCH THE FAST IDLE CABLE. It's a huge pita to remove and replace, and you don't need to replace it. You use it once per trip, compared to hundreds or thousands of time for teh throttle cables. You can pull the box out the right side of the bike far enough to replace all the other cables with the fast idle cable still attached. I just saved you two hours of aggravation. Yay! Link to comment
OoPEZoO Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 +1 on what Jim said about the fast idle cable. I wouldn't mess with it. Mine is still original at almost 130k miles and I've never had an issue with it. Other than that, I would range it maybe a 2-3 on a scale of 10. But then again, my 10 was rebuilding the transmission and final drive . You definitly don't have to remove the servo box. Like it was posted earlier, its not difficult by any means. Just a little on the tedious side. The most difficult part is getting the bowden box past the transmission breather tube, and then of course getting it all set back up properly and syncing the throttle bodies. Its really not difficult, and I'm sure you can do it. I know there is no way in hell I would pay someone else $300+ to do it for me. Orange County, CA ehh? I'm sure you could dig up one or two board members in the general area that would be willing to drink your beer and oversee the operation Link to comment
mrduck Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 One very slick trick that I learned here.... Tape a piece of wire or string on the ends of the cables before you pull them out, makes routing the new cables back in much EZ'er And I'm just about to do mine also, the timing on this thread couldn't be better! Thanks Don J Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Thanks, Al. FWIW, I do have the shop manual and have done every regular service after the 600 mile service, so sync'ing TBs is no biggie. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Thanks, Keith. I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend! :o) I will skip the fast idle cable. Thanks for the tip. Only 130k miles? You must work for a living. Link to comment
BrianM Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I just replaced mine while it is apart doing the clutch. I didn't think changing the choke cable was any big deal, no more difficult than changing the others. Also if you do misplace the e clip, the bike can be ridden without it. I rode about 60,000 miles without it. Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I didn't think changing the choke cable was any big deal, no more difficult than changing the others. The 1100 is easy. The 1150 has a different machanism at the lever. Huge Pita. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Progress report: I'm an hour and a half into the project and I'm down to removing the cables and Bowden box. Removal of the Bowden box seems intimidating. It looks like it would be a lot easier if that big honkin' breather tube wasn't in the way. Are you sure I can't unbolt it and pull it back? This also might be a good time to clean the throttle bodies. Yuck! Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Yeah, you can take it off. Put it back on with a zip tie. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Yeah, you can take it off. Put it back on with a zip tie. As it turns out, the breather hose wasn't the problem. It was the metal tab that secures the electrical connector from the gas tank. I took one of my favorite tools (pliers), bent it up slightly and it slid right out! Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Done! Piece of cake! Well, not cake, but it wasn't so bad. Sitting in the garage, the throttle doesn't feel THAT much easier, but I guess the true test is to go out and ride it for 16 - 18 hours and see if I get a blister on my hand. Link to comment
awagnon Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 As it turns out, the breather hose wasn't the problem. It was the metal tab that secures the electrical connector from the gas tank. I took one of my favorite tools (pliers), bent it up slightly and it slid right out! That was my experience also. Good work. I carry my old throttle cable with me on long trips. I know of at least one person who's RT throttle cable broke leaving him stranded. Link to comment
dan cata Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Done! Piece of cake! Well, not cake, but it wasn't so bad. Sitting in the garage, the throttle doesn't feel THAT much easier, but I guess the true test is to go out and ride it for 16 - 18 hours and see if I get a blister on my hand. If your throttle does not feel easyer to move with new cables, the rubber handle might be touching the handlebar weight or the metal part on the opposite side. I added 2 plastic shims made out of a bad ATM card and it works very easy now Dan. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.