Electrical Terminal Extractor

[Frog]

I will soon be diving into my relay box to see if I can fix an electrical gremlin. I found another thread in the forum where another rider was able to fix a recurring overload relay failure by cleaning/replacing the terminals under the relay box. Apparently a build up of corrosion causes resistance that generates heat and fries the relay.

 

I want to buy a terminal extractor for the job, but it looks like there are several sizes. Does anybody know what size the electrical terminals are that plug into the relay box?

 

Some of the ones I found...

 

Sir Tools 9024

 

Sir Tools 9025

 

Lisle 56500

 

Lisle 14900

 

Thank you,

 

Frog

[dirtrider]

Evening Frog

 

None of your pictures are high enough resolution or properly show the pick ends to really tell if they have a pick that will work OK or not. Also you won’t need all the ones with round (tubular) pick ends.

 

I pretty well get all the BMW terminals released using either a T-6 micro terminal pick (.035" blade width). Used to release the GM 150 Metri-Pack & 280 Metri-Pack terminals.

Or for the larger BMW terminals use the T-5 (.090" blade width). Used to release larger terminals up to & including Maxi fuse terminals.

 

Your best bet is to probably visit your local BMW dealer and look at what they use then stop at a high end (re real) auto parts store and buy something similar.

 

The GM (Delphi) terminal picks I use do work but take a little fiddling to get the BMW OEM terminals to release.

 

Just a note (but keep in mind I work mostly with Delphi or Bosch terminals daily) is a slightly narrow pick blade will work on a wider terminal tail but a slightly wide terminal pick simply won’t work on a narrow terminal tail. Also thin pick blades ends are easier to insert without terminal damage.

 

If need be you can sand/file the ends/or/sides of autoparts store terminal picks to get something that will work for you.

 

[11101110]

When you do get the terminals out be sure to inspect the crimp connection between the wire and connector. In my experience the corrosion that occurs here is also a problem area. Also over time the terminal can loose its clamping force resulting in a higher resistance connection that will allow corrosion to seep in.

[OlGeezer]

The one I used was purchased from Snap-On. It's the green one. I think they only have a couple.

 

If you would like, I can loan you mine. Just PM me with your address.

 

This procedure turned into a PITA, so I opted for relay receptical replacement once I found replacements. The problem is that the entire assembly is one part number. Fortunately, my dealer had one off a wrecked bike and loaned it to me. I think the easiest way to fix this is to find replacement relay recepticals and splice them in.

[Frog]

I actually found a full used terminal and wiring harness on eBay, off a bike with only 45K miles, and bought it! So, if I understand what you are saying, I might not even need the terminal extractor? I am planning on changing out the full relay box and any connectors that look heat damaged or corroded. Did you just cut the connector completely off the donor wiring harness and splice all the wires into your bikes harness? Then use heat shrink to seal it?

 

I also bought a can of Deoxit D5 contact cleaner to clean up all the contacts as I do the work. I wonder if it would help to remove each terminal, clean it and solder it to the wire to improve connection?

 

Deoxit D5

 

I think I found the green Snap-on tool you used. Does that link look right? I might just buy one, will let you know if I want to borrow it--I appreciate the offer!

 

Snap-on Terminal Extrator

 

Edit: I just found out the Lisle 56500 is the same as the green Snap-on tool.

 

Frog

 

 

[OlGeezer]

I actually found a full used terminal and wiring harness on eBay, off a bike with only 45K miles, and bought it! So, if I understand what you are saying, I might not even need the terminal extractor? I am planning on changing out the full relay box and any connectors that look heat damaged or corroded.

Taking the box out is a LOT of work. I believe the local BMW shop quoted me 8 mh labor. It won't come out the top, so you can visualize what has to come off before the box does.

Did you just cut the connector completely off the donor wiring harness and splice all the wires into your bikes harness? Then use heat shrink to seal it?

That's exactly what I did. Since I left the box in place, it's a little tricky getting the recepticle out. You have to unclip it and push down then pull it up. I was never successful in getting them to clip back in place.

I also bought a can of Deoxit D5 contact cleaner to clean up all the contacts as I do the work. I wonder if it would help to remove each terminal, clean it and solder it to the wire to improve connection?

I wouldn't remove any connector that was good.

 

I think I found the green Snap-on tool you used. Does that link look right? I might just buy one, will let you know if I want to borrow it--I appreciate the offer!

Yep, that's it.

 

Edit: I just found out the Lisle 56500 is the same as the green Snap-on tool.

 

Frog