StevenM Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Help! Replacing my alternator belt and having a tough time getting the new belt on. The belt is a pk 592, and is the same as the old belt. I knew I was going to have a hard time when I wasnt able to rotate the old belt off the pulley. Ended up having to snip it off with my dikes.I have done a search on the forum and found lots of info but still unable to walk the new belt on by turning the crank.Any helpful hints will greatly be appreciated. Link to comment
Mr. Frank Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Do you have the old style belt or the new one which were used about July 2003 onward? Link to comment
StevenM Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 PK 592. It's the new style.the alternator has a free wheeling pulley. the replacement belt is same as the original. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Afternoon Steven Those stretchy elastomer belts are REAL pain to install on the late 1150 engines. With a LOT of prying and using something like a strip of plastic milk jug or soft plastic bottle between the belt and pulley while slowly turning the crankshaft I have managed to get a couple of those belts on. Truthfully it really isn’t worth the bother so now I just loosen the alternator and drop that as low as possible to get the belt on. If you choose this method VERY CAREFULLY measure the lower pulley lip to upper pulley lip BEFORE loosening the alternator retention bolts so you can put it back to exactly where it was. It will go on just a lot of prying while turning – careful to not nick or dent a pulley. Link to comment
kobukan Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 This just came up here recently. Link Link to comment
StevenM Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 Thanks all for the replies. Still not having any luck with this. I'm gonna go to NAPA and buy the belt, pn 25-040233.I'll keep my BMW(contitech 4 pk 592) as a spare for an onroad emergency, even though I can't get the damn thing on, even in the comfort of my garage Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Afternoon again Steven Sometimes placing the new belt in the rear window of your car in the hot sun for a while will allow it to stretch out easier. I realize in Washington that might not happen too often this time of year. Link to comment
AndyS Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I had the same problem with ny replacement correct belt. I was unhappy with the tension and concerned about the load imparted on the alternator bearings. So I opted to use an older style belt and set it up using the more traditional twist through 1/4 turn method (but again set it on the tight side). The belt doesn't squeal even when battery voltage is low and high current draw is required). So I am happy with that. Andy Link to comment
Tobias Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Steven, I just did my belt last weekend (same bike) and it was a PITA but it will go on. Some tips I found that made it easier. Remove a spark plug on each cylinder so you aren't fighting compression as you roll the engine over. Take a flat blade screw driver and file the tip smooth (no sharp corners) or you could pierce your new belt as you pry it on. Start the belt on the upper pulley Put your ratchet on the crankshaft pulley and roll the engine in the proper direction (check this by turning the rear wheel in gear) With your other hand hook the screw driver over the lower pulley flange and roll the engine over forcing the belt on. The belt will walk on to the pulley once you get past the 6:00 position. Tension the belt as best you can, but leave the body work off. Ride far enough to get the bike up to operating temp. Then do the final tensioning of the belt. I made a gauge by using a piece of round stock and cut it down to 116 mm (per Dirt Rider). Carefully pry up the alternator until the gauge sits between the flanges, then tighten up the alternator fasteners. Link to comment
StevenM Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Again, thanks for all the replies. I've put the NAPA belt on and will tension it using the torque wrench on the tensioning bolt. I'll keep the BMW belt for a spare. Link to comment
ElevenFifty Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I've done this 3 times with no problems. With the bodywork removed just loosen the alternator bolts so that the whole unit slips down. Install the belt and then readjust the alternator until the belt will twist 90 degrees and no further. You need to exercise some caution when levering the alternator back to position (I use a large flat pry-bar) but it is really an easy job. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Again, thanks for all the replies. I've put the NAPA belt on and will tension it using the torque wrench on the tensioning bolt. I'll keep the BMW belt for a spare. I don't know what the problem is. You don't need a torque wrench. If you don't have the BMW special tool (well worth it IMO), I *think* you can get proper tension by going in through the back. I have to say that I've only done this once then I bought the BMW special tool. It makes the job foolproof. I also cut the alternator cover in half so that I can change it on the road without taking off the plastic. Yes, I've had to do this. I'm glad I had the tools. Link to comment
AndyS Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I don't know what the problem is. You don't need a torque wrench. If you don't have the BMW special tool (well worth it IMO), I *think* you can get proper tension by going in through the back. I have to say that I've only done this once then I bought the BMW special tool. It makes the job foolproof. ..... Hi OlGeezer. We are talking about the latest alternator belt, for the bikes with the freewheeling alternator pulley. The 'Proper' BMW tool for this job is Very Expensive really resets fixed distances between the crankshaft pulley and the alternator pulley. It is not like the earlier 1150's where the 'proper' BMW tool set the tension via the alternator pivot bolt. These new belts are set by length not tension and are a real bear to get on becuase they 'appear' too short even before you start (when compared to the earlier belts). Like I say, I fit the earlier longer belt to mine AND use the twist method for tensioning. Link to comment
StevenM Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 I was referring to pre torqueing the adjustment bolt to 8nm to set the tension. I tried that,but didn't have enough room to move my wrench. I agree that the special tool your referring to would be a better way. I ended up just using the "twist" method for tensioning. I think I will also follow your advice and halve the cover Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I was referring to pre torqueing the adjustment bolt to 8nm to set the tension. I tried that,but didn't have enough room to move my wrench. I agree that the special tool your referring to would be a better way. I ended up just using the "twist" method for tensioning. I think I will also follow your advice and halve the cover Also, get one of those 13mm wratcheting wrenches. That way, you can reach the top bolt easily. I owe this tip to KMG. Thanks, Jamie! Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Hi OlGeezer. We are talking about the latest alternator belt, for the bikes with the freewheeling alternator pulley. The 'Proper' BMW tool for this job is Very Expensive really resets fixed distances between the crankshaft pulley and the alternator pulley. It is not like the earlier 1150's where the 'proper' BMW tool set the tension via the alternator pivot bolt. These new belts are set by length not tension and are a real bear to get on becuase they 'appear' too short even before you start (when compared to the earlier belts). Like I say, I fit the earlier longer belt to mine AND use the twist method for tensioning. Holy crap! I thought the belt didn’t change until you got to the 1200. Thanks for setting me straight. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Like I say, I fit the earlier longer belt to mine AND use the twist method for tensioning. So, there's no problem using the old belt with the new pulley? This seems like a no brainer considering the hassle of getting the new belt on. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Again, thanks for all the replies. I've put the NAPA belt on and will tension it using the torque wrench on the tensioning bolt. I'll keep the BMW belt for a spare. Why keep the BMW belt if you can't get it on? I would take it back for a refund and buy a second belt identical to the one you installed. Just my two cents. Link to comment
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