robert wagner Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I have a 1996 R1100R and want to replace the rear tire. Is there a tutorial available? did a "search" but did not find what I was looking for. Thanks for any input.. Link to comment
NonComp Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 The procedure for removing the rear wheel is documented in your owner's/rider's manual. You have to remove the rear brake caliper to get the clearance to remove the wheel/tire. Hang it from a coat hanger and avoid crimping the brake line. Link to comment
kmac Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Super easy. Put the bike on the center stand. There are 4 lug bolts on the LEFT side of the rear wheel {for reference, LEFT is the SHIFTER side of the bike}. There is a small plastic cap in the center of the wheel that just pops off by prying outward with a screw driver. It is just held in with a spring. After the cap is off you will see the four LUG bolts, they are 17mm, use a ratchet and socket. You may want to crack them loose with the bike on the ground and in gear like a car, then put it on the center stand. After they are cracked loose and the bike is on the center stand, just spin the lug bolts out and the wheel will come off just like a car. Take off the left side bag to have easier access. You do need to finaggle the wheel a bit to get it out of the opening under the exhaust but it come out. IT IS VERY EASY, like a car with a tiny hub cap. Link to comment
kmac Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 The procedure for removing the rear wheel is documented in your owner's/rider's manual. You have to remove the rear brake caliper to get the clearance to remove the wheel/tire. Hang it from a coat hanger and avoid crimping the brake line. I have a '96 R1100RT and i DO NOT have to remove the caliper...it just take a little wiggleing. You could remove the rear mud flap and the wheel will come out easier, but the caliper is NOT NECCESARY. Link to comment
oldyam Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 The procedure for removing the rear wheel is documented in your owner's/rider's manual. You have to remove the rear brake caliper to get the clearance to remove the wheel/tire. Hang it from a coat hanger and avoid crimping the brake line. I have a '96 R1100RT and i DO NOT have to remove the caliper...it just take a little wiggleing. You could remove the rear mud flap and the wheel will come out easier, but the caliper is NOT NECCESARY. On my 2000 R1100RT I remove the caliper because if I dont I have to deflate the rear tyre and squeeze it out, I remove the caliper to make removal easier, It can also depend on what rear tyre you have fitted. Link to comment
Boffin Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 The procedure for removing the rear wheel is documented in your owner's/rider's manual. You have to remove the rear brake caliper to get the clearance to remove the wheel/tire. Hang it from a coat hanger and avoid crimping the brake line. I have a '96 R1100RT and i DO NOT have to remove the caliper...it just take a little wiggleing. You could remove the rear mud flap and the wheel will come out easier, but the caliper is NOT NECCESARY. On my 2000 R1100RT I remove the caliper because if I dont I have to deflate the rear tyre and squeeze it out, I remove the caliper to make removal easier, It can also depend on what rear tyre you have fitted. The calliper must come off on an 1150 as the rear disk is mounted to the wheel. On the 1100 the disk is mounted to the hub making removal optional. I prefer to remove the rear silencer mounting bolt - this lets the can move out of the way a half-inch or so making it easy to remove and install the wheel. Andy Link to comment
VinnyR11 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Like Andy, I did it this way as well on my 1100. I left the caliper, and although not necessary removed the muffler bolt for more room. I don't enjoy maintenance on my bike, but the removal of the rear on an 1100 is dead easy. Good directions in the manual,although I'm not certain they mention the muffler bolt. Link to comment
ElevenFifty Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Be sure to TORQUE the lug bolts to the recommended settings. I neglected to do this once ... Then I ran up to the local gas station. Leaving the station, the rear wheel got very sloppy and I pulled into a parking lot - all the bolts had backed out about an inch. Buy an inexpensive 'beam' type torque wrench from Sears that will go up to 150 ft lbs - it will work with 1/2" sockets so buy a 17mm socket for the lug bolts. Also buy and a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. Pick up a set of hex (Allen) wrench 3/8" sockets and a set of Torx (star shaped) 3/8" sockets. Add any set of 3/8" drive metric sockets and you will be able to put things back together to spec. Torque wrenches are sold in different sizes based on the range of values they support ... I own two ... a sophisticated small one for bolts from 7nm to 30nm and a classic beam type for the big stuff. You can spend bigger bucks for more sophisticated torque wrenches but the old school beam types will work just fine. DON'T confuse 'foot-pound' and 'newton-meter' scales. Every thing you loosen on a BMW, has a torque value for tightness ... oil drain plug, transmission and final drive drain and fill plugs, brake calipers ... everything. With torque tools, you can easily handle all the routine fluid and brake pad service needs. Have fun! Link to comment
Uncle Beemer Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Looks to me like he wants to know how to change the rear tire. Try this video Bob. By the way I like the tv show, Hart to Hart, that you did. http://www.jakewilson.com/videos.do?videoId=83 Link to comment
philbytx Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Actually, there is a technique where you CAN remove an R1150RT wheel without removing the caliper....I've done it several times. With no luggage or top box on the bike, put the bike on the centre stand. Pre-load the rear suspension to maximum, remove the wheel sensor, then undo the lug nuts about half way and, from the lug nut side of the bike, push and pull the top and bottom of the tyre, to push back the brake pads. Then remove the lug nuts and slide the wheel backwards, wiggling it to get the wide part of the tyre past the bushing boss, and ease it out. It will bend the rear mudguard a bit but it does come out rather easily . Roll the wheel back in the same way, locate the disc in between the brake pads, lift and insert a lug bolt and, Voila! there you be . Link to comment
robert wagner Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 thanks to ALL who responded, you have made it soun "easy", soon as my tire arrives, I'll tackle the job.. Link to comment
kobukan Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 A Clymer's manual would be a great investment if you're planning to do any wrenching on your bike. Armed with that and all the great tech info here you'd have just about all the info you'll ever need. Link to comment
NonComp Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 I have a '96 R1100RT and i DO NOT have to remove the caliper...it just take a little wiggleing. You could remove the rear mud flap and the wheel will come out easier, but the caliper is NOT NECCESARY. Kmac, I own the exact same model and year as Robert '96 R1100R -- it is NOT an RT. It has a completely different muffler. I know what I'm talking about. Either the caliper comes off or the muffler. I find the caliper easier. Link to comment
NonComp Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Dug the Service and Technical Booklet out of the seat pocket. This is the other booklet that came with the bike (Rider's Manual is the other one). The instructions on rear wheel change are on page 28. Caliper removal is on page 29. Link to comment
AndyS Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Actually, there is a technique where you CAN remove an R1150RT wheel without removing the caliper....I've done it several times. .... Hi Phil, I'm sure you are right, but by the time you have gone to these lengths, why not just pop off the calliper? That way you can leave the ABS sensor on place and not loose any of the shims or disturb it's leaktight integrity, or not get any grit into the FD mech from where the ABS sensor came out from, and also you can get a good look at the state of the pads too. Andy Link to comment
Danny S Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Is it really that easy to change the tire? Do those "Dina Beads" work. My wheels have weights on them now. Link to comment
Linz Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Dyna beads work for most of the people who have tried them, don't work for some of the people that have tried them, are bunk by physics experts who haven't tried them and the other 100% say they don't know. Pick your poison. Linz Link to comment
kmac Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 MY BAD....I did not notice it was a R and I thought it was an RT....appologies. Link to comment
g_frey Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Is it really that easy to change the tire? Do those "Dina Beads" work. My wheels have weights on them now. Dina Beads work? NO. I have not balanced my tires for over six years now by any method. I have had NO problems with the seven or eight sets of tires I have put on in that time. I still get the 6,000 to 11,000 miles I usually got depending on the tire model. Even wear every time too. Modern tires and wheels are nicely made. This is not just me, there are more riders doing this every year I believe. If I was a racer, yes I would go back to balancing; but I am a tourer and rarely go over 80, though I may be doing 80 all day. Link to comment
robert wagner Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 Update, I removed the wheel yesterday and changed the tire, did not remove the caliper, the disk is held in place by the 4 wheel bolts, let the air out of the tire and "walked" it out thru the muffler and fender on the left side, and reversed the process, torqued to 77 ft.lbs Link to comment
philbytx Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 That you can easily remove the rear wheel without removing the caliper . There were unbelievers out there Link to comment
AndyS Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 ... There were unbelievers out there THERE ARE! I am talking of the 1150RT, Robert is talking of an 1100R. Are you saying it can easily be done that way on the 1150RT? Andy Link to comment
philbytx Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Hey Andy! Yes, it definitely can be done on the R1100R and the R1150RT, remember I do have both bikes in the garage Link to comment
Solo6 Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Why would you NOT remove the caliper? It's a whole, whopping TWO BOLTS, then it's out of the way. Stick something between the pads to hold them in place and apart (I usually use a screwdriver because it's handy). Link to comment
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