RPG Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 attempting to check my hall effect sensor for wire insulation damage, but was wondering the best way to remove the crank pulley? I made a tool (3/8"rod) but I must be inserting into the wrong hole to stop the crank from spinning. At TDC, I can't seem to locate the matching hole in the flywheel. thanks, RPG Link to comment
dan cata Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 attempting to check my hall effect sensor for wire insulation damage, but was wondering the best way to remove the crank pulley? I made a tool (3/8"rod) but I must be inserting into the wrong hole to stop the crank from spinning. At TDC, I can't seem to locate the matching hole in the flywheel. thanks, RPG No need to, such a tool can be forgotten inside there and you will destroy the starter motor upon firing it. Ask how I know Just put the bike in 5th and have someone else press the rear brake Works just fine for me every time. Dan. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Evening Rick That .375” rod is probably just a little too large to enter the flywheel hole. More than likely will need to either make a new lock tool from 5/16” rod or grind the end of your tool to have a slightly smaller diameter pin on it. My tool is out in my shop so I don’t have access at the moment to measure it for you. A little trick is to attach a string to your tool with a length long enough to run up the handlebar. That makes it all but impossible to leave in place accidentally. Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Just put the bike in 5th and have someone else press the rear brake Works just fine for me every time. +1. Link to comment
dan cata Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Evening Rick That .375” rod is probably just a little too large to enter the flywheel hole. More than likely will need to either make a new lock tool from 5/16” rod or grind the end of your tool to have a slightly smaller diameter pin on it. My tool is out in my shop so I don’t have access at the moment to measure it for you. A little trick is to attach a string to your tool with a length long enough to run up the handlebar. That makes it all but impossible to leave in place accidentally. When I used this method, I put there a allen key, 5 mm. I don't anymore Dan. Link to comment
Trullion Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Just put the bike in 5th and have someone else press the rear brake Works just fine for me every time. +1. + another. Link to comment
RPG Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 thanks guys, I tried the bike in 1st gear but that didn't work. I'll upshift a few times, pretend I'm in S.E. Utah and go from there. RPG Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 The actual locking hole is pretty small. I couldn't get a 4 mm hex in there. I ended up using a 3 mm hex key. It got bent a little bit but it worked. Link to comment
AndyS Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 The actual locking hole is pretty small. I couldn't get a 4 mm hex in there. I ended up using a 3 mm hex key. It got bent a little bit but it worked. Hi Jim, I'm not sure I agree with you about either of those points. The locking tool is about 8mm diameter, The locking hole is fairly easy to locate behind the L/H Throttle body. You have to make sure of course that the flywheel is in the coreect position (by setting it up viewing through the inspection hole on behind the R/H Throttle body (you know, that rubber bung that either pings out and gets lost...or pings IN and is not lost, but safely located in the clutch housing)! See attached: Link to comment
flying_monkey Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 I've always seen people remove things like this on other bikes using an impact wrench. Mostly the inertia of the crank, etc. are enough for an air wrench to work against to get the nut broken loose. Are BMWs different here? Or is there just not enough room to get in with an impact wrench? Or I suppose there is a third possibility, not everybody has one. Trying to get myself BMW educated. Ed Link to comment
dan cata Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 IT gets even more easy Just put a socket on it to rest on the telelever arm and hit the starter button for one microsecond - works for unscrewing the bolt, but not for screwing it back Dan. Link to comment
flars Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 The cut u-bolt works perfectly. And then you won't have to make/borrow one when you replace your clutch plate. Link to comment
RPG Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 the 5th gear trick worked fine. Just wondering, why would the engine continue to spin the rear wheel when placed in 1st gear with the brake? I'm guessing the engine has more leverage in 1st rather than 5th. thanks guys, RPG Link to comment
dan cata Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 When you bump start the bike, what gear do you use? 2, 3rd? In 1st gear, the wheel just blocks and drags on the road, but on the 3rd gear you are able to start it Dan. Link to comment
kmac Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 It is a similar therory as leverage. Longer pry bar= easier to move the object you are prying on. Gearing is similar. Try taking off in 5th gear. The engine doesn't have the "leverage" to turn the gears....yes you gearhead scientist/geniuses, I know it is not technically leverage, hence the word similar. Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Hi Jim, I'm not sure I agree with you about either of those points. The locking tool is about 8mm diameter, The locking hole is fairly easy to locate behind the L/H Throttle body. You have to make sure of course that the flywheel is in the coreect position (by setting it up viewing through the inspection hole on behind the R/H Throttle body (you know, that rubber bung that either pings out and gets lost...or pings IN and is not lost, but safely located in the clutch housing)! See attached: That's very interesing. Thanks. I played with that thing for a long time. I couldn't get anything bigger than a 3mm to fit. That tool looks pretty handy. I think I'll make one next time I need it. Any idea how much to taper the end? Link to comment
AndyS Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 That's very interesing. Thanks. I played with that thing for a long time. I couldn't get anything bigger than a 3mm to fit. That tool looks pretty handy. I think I'll make one next time I need it. Any idea how much to taper the end? I didn't taper the end of mine. The locating hole in the crankcase doesn't need one. Here are a couple of pictures (courtesy of Limecreek) that show the hole and the position. Andy Link to comment
Bruce (Bedford) Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Don't keep showing Limecreek's pics - every time I see them I feel guilty thet my engin didn't gleam so after I changed my clutch at Christmas! The man's a God!!! (Or he's scamming us with a new engine - now that's more likely!!!) Link to comment
AndyS Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 ..... every time I see them (engine casings)..I feel guilty thet my engin didn't gleam so after I changed my clutch at Christmas! ... Ah, you see, I blame the English Climate, the way we put salt down, the toxic rain, the diesel fumes, the rotation of the earth. In fact any excuse I can, because mine didn't look that good when my bike was new! Andy Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Awesome pics. thanks. That really makes me wonder what the hell I was doing back there. Link to comment
philbytx Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 +1 I made the U bolt tool and it works great Link to comment
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