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anyone know what all is involved in swapping shocks on an RT??


leeinmemphis

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Hey everyone,

 

I am getting ready to pull the trigger for a set of Ohlins on the RT and was wondering if anyone knows what all is involved to swap the shocks out? I have never messed with the BMW front ends and the rear shock looks like a real PITA to get out. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

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The rear is easy enough, the front is more fiddly.

 

Rear, remove wheel, place something very soft underneath the swing arm and brake disc. Remove seat, remove height adjuster, remove top suspension bolt and allow swing arm to lower to the ground. Replace suspension and torque the lower bolt. Replace parts in reverse order.

 

The front is different. You need to either remove the tank or at least slide it back far enough to get to the top bolt. Getting to the lower bolt is fiddly and tight in there. I removed the front fairing entirely but with patience, you could remove and replace (carefully) without. Check for torque settings and use blue loctite where applicable.

 

That's how I did mine (Wilbers shocks) about 6 years ago.

 

Cheers,

Linz :)

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It's not that bad, but a bit tedious. First of all, get a new lower bolt and bushing. Place a floor jack or a bottle jack under the drive shaft and get the weight off the shock. You might need some heat to get the existing lower bolt out due to Red Locktite. Once it's out, take out the top bolt and it should drop out. Going in is just the opposite except I install the lower bolt first then use the floor jack to align the top bolt. The front is much easier and intuitive.

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so this should be something I could tackle at home with basic tools? I have a platform lift at the house and think I have a jack that would work. Thanks for all the help!!!

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so this should be something I could tackle at home with basic tools? I have a platform lift at the house and think I have a jack that would work. Thanks for all the help!!!
Yes. One other point is that the front shock needs to be torqued with an open-end wrench, which might be a bit tricky. The center of the stock front shock top bolt is keyed for an allen key. You have to hold it while torquing the nut. I tried the opposite and stripped the allen keyway, so don't do what I did.
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You may need to trace the front brake pipe back toward the frame on the right hand side and remove the clamp fastener.

 

It will give you those few extra inches you'll need when pushing down on the leading link and slipping in the new front strut.

 

When you remove the bolt, push the clamp to the side. You'll know why when you find it.

 

This is what it looks like on a 1200. The 1150 is similar

medium.jpg

 

One more thing--buy and replace the front strut rubber bushings.

 

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so this should be something I could tackle at home with basic tools? I have a platform lift at the house and think I have a jack that would work. Thanks for all the help!!!

Yes, and with a platform lift, it should be very easy. My R1100RT had Ohlins shocks when I bought it, and last year I pulled the rear shock for a rebuild, this year the front. Both were relatively easy to remove, without (if I remember right) need to remove any bodywork. I had to pull the horn to get the front shock out, but I have an aftermarket horn that takes up more space.

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so this should be something I could tackle at home with basic tools? I have a platform lift at the house and think I have a jack that would work. Thanks for all the help!!!

Yes, and with a platform lift, it should be very easy. My R1100RT had Ohlins shocks when I bought it, and last year I pulled the rear shock for a rebuild, this year the front. Both were relatively easy to remove, without (if I remember right) need to remove any bodywork. I had to pull the horn to get the front shock out, but I have an aftermarket horn that takes up more space.

How did you get the front shock off and on without removing the gas tank?

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How did you get the front shock off and on without removing the gas tank?

I knew I had forgotten something! :dopeslap:

 

I removed the bolt on the right side, and slid the tank back an inch or two, then raised it somewhat with a 2x4 between the bottom of the gas tank and right cylinder. Of course, in order to slide the gas tank back, I had to remove the body work...

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I believe it's also wise to strap your centerstand to your front tire to prevent the stand from collapsing when you remove the rear tire due to weight transfer. Just to be safe!

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well the shocks are ordered. I will probably remove the rear shock on Sunday in preparation for them to arrive on Monday. Of course I just filled the tank back up just before I parked it. I'll probably try to get out Saturday and ride 100-150 miles to get out at least some of the gas. If I have any questions I'll be sure to ask. Thanks again!!!!!

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I believe it's also wise to strap your centerstand to your front tire to prevent the stand from collapsing when you remove the rear tire due to weight transfer. Just to be safe!

A safety strap is always a good idea, as well as support under the engine. That said, I can't think of any situation (although I am sure there is one) where I would want to remove both wheels at the same time. With the rear wheel in place, removing the front shock just results in the front wheel dropping to the pavement.

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strap your centerstand to your front tire when you remove the rear tire due to weight transfer. Just to be safe!

 

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I can't think of any situation (although I am sure there is one) where I would want to remove both wheels at the same time.

 

The only time I had to is when I had to take my wheels in to have new tires moounted. I took off the front tire first, used a jack to lift the rear of the bike far enough so that the front shocks rested on a towel covered tool box. I then removed the rear wheel. Yes, I strapped the centerstand to the front forks. It beats making two trips.

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