Jump to content
IGNORED

BMW R1100S


Chocki

Recommended Posts

Friends, My name is Chock,, 58,, been on some form of bike since 12 years old,, My current bikes is a BMW R1100S (2001) (Which I consider one of the most enjoyable bibes I ever had) and a Suziki VX800,,, about two months ago the following happened to my BM and since then she has been standing,,, I went to visit a friend about 1 km from where I live,, the bike stood for half an hour,, on cranking the motor she spun for a few seconds and went stone dead,, being an electrician, I chargeg the battey for a few minutes via the power take off point and started the bike,, I travelled for about 50 meters and she just cut out again.. I got hold of a digital tester and found the battery stone dead, I left the bike for a couple of weeks in my garage as I was away on a course,, on returning I fitted a new battery only to find that my Low RPM up to about 3000rpm is comepletel haywire,, I checked various sites on the internet and found out how to reset the Motronic MA 2.4 engine management system,, I have followed the instructions to the T namely to pull the supply fuse for the motronic, lift the sidestand,, open the throttle full(Twice) to reset the Motronic,, no joy,, I had my fluke connected to the red and white wire on the throttle position sensor,, I,m supposed to get between .37-.4 millivolt with throttle closed and then a graduall increase in voltage to up to one third throttle open and from there on she should be about 4.7 volt,, At this point in time I get .7 volt on throttle closed and as I slowly open the throttle the voltage will jump around erradically but not increasing to the one third position and from there on she wil give me a constant 4.9 volt all the way to full throttle,, I have tried discharging the motronic by disconnecting the plug and leave her for two days,,, side stand up,, side stand down,, battery charged fully to 12.7 volt.. just about anything possible,, but no joy,, I work on generator PLC and have an fair idea of whats going on.. I have not changed any setting as the bike was perfect before the battery change out.. I,m desperate for advices as a new Motronic in my country will set you back half the price of the value of the bike,, Can any one out there advice me on the following,, How can I determine whether its the Motronic or the TPS,, can the motronic be re programmed,,, what have I missed>>>>>>>>>>

Link to comment

The first thing to do is check is the simple things.

 

Ensure both throttle cables are properly seated in the ferrules at the throttle bodies. These are very easy to disturb when working on the bike and have a hue impact on running.

 

The Motronic provides a fixed voltage to the TPS which is read off by the wiper of a potentiometer. If the voltage is varying it is the TPS not the Motronic - If the Motronic fails you are likely to get no running at all.

 

There is another possible contender for your symptoms - the Hall Effect Sensor (HES) on the front of the crankshaft. This provides crank position information to the Motronic and is used as a trigger for the ignition system and the fuel pump. It is common for the wiring to this to break down causing the engine to stall, especially after the bike gets wet. This is often, but not always, accompanied by the rev-counter bouncing around erratically, as the signals to the Motoronic are messed up.

 

By the way, filling in your profile a little more could help us to help you - whereabout in the world are you?

 

Andy

Link to comment
The first thing to do is check is the simple things.

 

Ensure both throttle cables are properly seated in the ferrules at the throttle bodies. These are very easy to disturb when working on the bike and have a hue impact on running.

 

The Motronic provides a fixed voltage to the TPS which is read off by the wiper of a potentiometer. If the voltage is varying it is the TPS not the Motronic - If the Motronic fails you are likely to get no running at all.

 

There is another possible contender for your symptoms - the Hall Effect Sensor (HES) on the front of the crankshaft. This provides crank position information to the Motronic and is used as a trigger for the ignition system and the fuel pump. It is common for the wiring to this to break down causing the engine to stall, especially after the bike gets wet. This is often, but not always, accompanied by the rev-counter bouncing around erratically, as the signals to the Motoronic are messed up.

 

By the way, filling in your profile a little more could help us to help you - whereabout in the world are you?

 

Andy

Thanks for the advice,, When I switch the ignition on the fuel pump does pump for a few seconds until (I presume) the right fuel pressure is obtained,,, excactly like it used to be,,, My big concern is that I do not get a steady voltage increase on the TPS in the first 1/3 of throttle opening, According to all the info I gathered up to now I should get a steady increase in this initialn stage of opening the throttle,, from .37 volt at throttle closed to 4.7 volt at 1/3 throttle and then stay at 4.7 volt all the way to full throttle,, from 1/3 throttle upwards I do get the constant 4.7 volt,, Its below the 1/3 throttle position that things are very wrong,, on testing the bike after I fitted a new battery she was very hectic up to about 3000rpm,, but from there on upwards all seemed ok,,, so my logical conclusion is that I have a problem with either the TPS on the first 1/3 throttle opening or the Motronic MA 2.4,,, that is what I want to determine!!! and I also want to know if the motronic MA 2.4 can be reprogrammed
Link to comment

The symptoms say TPS to me. The Motronic would either work or not work at all. The TPS is a potentiometer with a mechanical wiper - these can wear.

 

The Motronic can be re-programmed in theory - there are a few 'power' chips around that you plug in in place of the standard chip. BMW however, do not release details of the Motronic programming nor do they offer the service. They would just offer a new Motronic.

 

Andy

Link to comment
The symptoms say TPS to me. The Motronic would either work or not work at all. The TPS is a potentiometer with a mechanical wiper - these can wear.

 

The Motronic can be re-programmed in theory - there are a few 'power' chips around that you plug in in place of the standard chip. BMW however, do not release details of the Motronic programming nor do they offer the service. They would just offer a new Motronic.

 

Andy

Thanks for the advice,,, I would love to think that it is only the TPS,, in my Country the price of anything inported is horrendous,,, I live in South Africa,,, Gordansbay,,, western cape,,,about 50 km outside Cape Town,,, Due to our money ratio to the US dollar(7 Rand= 1 Dollar) or Ero (10 Rand = 1 ero) I can end up paying up to 15 times more for a european inported part than you would in the Usa,,, its a nightmare believe me,,, I will load my provile tonight,,,
Link to comment
what have I missed>>>>>>>>>>

I think Andy has covered the likely issue.

Just let us say welcome to the forum, I do hope you manage to get the problem fixed soon and at not too great an expense.

 

Andy

Link to comment
Ensure both throttle cables are properly seated in the ferrules at the throttle bodies. These are very easy to disturb when working on the bike and have a hue impact on running.

 

Andy

 

Did you checdk this yet? Also, make sure there isn't a small rock jammed in one of the pulleys where the throttle cables go.

Link to comment
Ensure both throttle cables are properly seated in the ferrules at the throttle bodies. These are very easy to disturb when working on the bike and have a hue impact on running.

 

Andy

 

Did you checdk this yet? Also, make sure there isn't a small rock jammed in one of the pulleys where the throttle cables go.

 

cablexf.jpg

Link to comment

My money would be on the tps too. I assume you are using an analogue meter to test the changing voltage as you open and close the throttle?

 

Another possibility might be the lambda sensor playing up.

Link to comment
My money would be on the tps too. I assume you are using an analogue meter to test the changing voltage as you open and close the throttle?

 

Another possibility might be the lambda sensor playing up.

I have checked all the relevant hardware such as cables into the ferrels,, plugs excetra,, when You ride the bike its quite obvious that its a "Timing" problem,, she misfires and stalls if you open the gas to quickly,, remember guys all I did was change the battery,,, so somewhere along the line I have a electronic problem somehow related to the changing of the battery,, the TPS makes the most sence to me and if some-one can explain where and what the"lamba" sensor is it might also help... I,m thinking along the line of a voltage spike that happened the moment while I was cranking the motor and the battey went open circuit,,,so if the clever Peeps can inform me of

(1) Lamba sensor where and what does it do

(2) TPS since its just a veriable potensio adjuster why 4 wires,, has some one opened one,, I should be able to check the resistance when disconnected from the supply,, has some one done this??? You have three set point on the TPH Zero,,, variable up to 1/3 throttle open,, maximum all the rest,, I should be able to test this not so??

(3) My commen sence tells me that if the Motronic unit misses any three of these set points she will firstly not reset,,because you need zero and max to get the right setting points??? So talk to me gentleman!!!

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...