ABS question

[Edgar]

On a 1100RT the ABS is faulting after it is started and the motor is running. The fault happens prior to any movement of the wheels. I have reset the ABS and have watched the faults come back. Using my Fluke 77 I see 7 pulses, which would indicate that it is the control unit.

I remember that someone did a fix to the circuit board that solved this issue. Does someone have a link? What kind of screwdriver opens the box up?

[dirtrider]

Morning Edgar

 

I’m not sure what someone did to the internal circuit board to correct a stored code 7 failure code (that would be interesting to learn what was done in that area)

On most of the ABS-2 REAL code 7’s I have worked with it is usually a stuck or sticking piston inside the ABS controller.

 

You might try a good thorough brake controller flushing using new brake fluid. Then ride the bike down a real rough or bumpy road while trying to de-power/re-power the controller (a somewhat long shot).

 

Or try rapping the ABS controller sharply with a rubber mallet while it is going through it’s initial power-up.

 

Also maybe verify the big power cable going into the ABS controller under the side cover has power to it and is making a good connection, same with the power relay.

 

 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

If it faults prior to any bike movement, the fault is outside of the hydraulics and electro-mechanical portions of the system.

 

If it faults immediately after pushing the starter button, I'd look at the relay mod installation and assume, for the time being, a low voltage condition. see the FAQ section I think? and here ABS low voltage mod

 

I'm not too trusting of the fault codes anymore as the only trail to follow for failure analysis. They cross over boundarys in the system.

[Edgar]

The bike has had the low voltage mod on it for years. For the purpose of trouble shooting the relay is out of the equation. The fault is not from low voltage.

[dirtrider]

For the purpose of trouble shooting the relay is out of the equation. The fault is not from low voltage.

 

Evening Edgar

 

How is the “power relay” out of the equation? That power relay runs the controller’s internal high amp draw motor during the power up internal test and during any ABS event . How have you by-passed that relay and still allowed controller power-up motor cycling?

We are talking about the power relay under the sliding cover on the side of the controller here aren’t we?

 

[NonComp]

Dirtrider, I think he means the Bosch relay added with the mod to delay ABS initialization.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Edgar,

It's cheap and they do go bad. Have you tried removing and replacing the low voltage mod relay?

 

Other than that, I'm stumped since it's a fault occuring prior to roll-off.

 

Good luck!

[Edgar]

Thanks for the reply. I wired the mod so I can easily disconnect it for troubleshooting. It's an easy thing to do just pull 2 wires from the additional relay and tape them together. Me thinks that a new ABS unit might be in order.

[dan cata]

Edgar,

It's cheap and they do go bad. Have you tried removing and replacing the low voltage mod relay?

 

Other than that, I'm stumped since it's a fault occuring prior to roll-off.

 

Good luck!

 

+1. Recently did the relay mod and it worked for exactly 50 meters. The next day, I had no ABS. So I was thinking it could eighter be a bad relay or mice in the garage. Turned out to be a bad relay so replaced it with a automotive one, costs more but it's reliable.

 

Dan.

[Jim Moore]

Me thinks that a new ABS unit might be in order.

 

On a bike that old I'd pull the ABS realy and put a piece of tape over the remaining light.

[Ian]

On a 1100RT the ABS is faulting after it is started and the motor is running. The fault happens prior to any movement of the wheels. I have reset the ABS and have watched the faults come back. Using my Fluke 77 I see 7 pulses, which would indicate that it is the control unit.

I remember that someone did a fix to the circuit board that solved this issue. Does someone have a link? What kind of screwdriver opens the box up?

 

My guess is that the sensor gap has increased through rotor wear and just needs adjusting.

 

regards,

 

Ian

[NonComp]

My guess is that the sensor gap has increased through rotor wear and just needs adjusting.

The sensor gap doesn't change with rotor wear. The sensor uses a separate toothed ring. Having said that, sensors do play up, including wiring problems. But I think that they present a different error code.

[dirtrider]

My guess is that the sensor gap has increased through rotor wear and just needs adjusting.

 

regards,

 

Ian

 

Morning Lan

 

On the ABS-2 systems the controller doesn’t look for ABS sensor gap problems UNTIL ride-off as it needs to see a speed sensor input at that time.

 

Edgar’s fault problem shows up prior to ride off so that would eliminate wheel sensor issues as the root of the failure.

 

[94aero]

I had a bike that was doing that. I bled the system at the module. Then I rolled the bike to 4 mph and turned the key on and started. the system has tripped twice in the last 10,000 miles. I think I had a sticking valve and the bleeding helped but by moving and using the rear brake while the system was self checking freed it up.

 

It's worth a try.....

[NonComp]

Contrary to popular opinion, I have found from personal experience that these older 1100's do accumulate crud and air in the two ABS chambers, which bleeding at the wheels does not clear. I guess it depends on whether or not the brakes have been bled on a regular basis. But it is worth moving the tank and bleeding from the ABS unit at least once to see what comes out. I would bet that accumulated water causes corrosion leading to sticking pistons.

[philbytx]

+1

Definitely!!! I did a straight through bleed when I first bought my R1100R. After reading some other posts, I then went and did a 2 stage bleed (to the ABS unit then to the Caliper) and I did indeed get some dark brown fluid out of the ABS unit!

 

 

[Edgar]

The brakes on this 1100 have been bled once a year for the last 12 years. The ABS has been bled every other year for the same time period. There has never been any crud.

[NonComp]

The brakes on this 1100 have been bled once a year for the last 12 years. The ABS has been bled every other year for the same time period. There has never been any crud.

That being the case, then hopefully there is a chance to finesse the piston to become un-stuck (if that is the problem).

[Edgar]

The rubber hammer will be out along with a super bleed, as soon as I get out of the frozen tundra of the Northeast. I got lucky and flew to NY prior to the storm and will be here till Friday after things clear up.