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Brake fluid change


Chef Eric

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I know its out there. Can anyone point to an exisiting post for changing the brake fluid on a 02 R1150RT?

 

Gotta start learning some where!

 

Thanks!

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Click on the M/C FAQ tab at the top of the page and go to Mechanical and Maintenance. There are two threads, wheel circuit bleed and control circuit bleed, both excellent, with pictures and starring our very own Mama Hoon.

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Hey;

Thanks with the great info on this issue. I just got one question, is all this info on brake bleeding still the same on a r1100rt? with ABS. I've already put a vacuum pump w/catch tank and got very little fluid out, but filled the upper tank 4 to 5 times. While using the front lever to help bleed. I don't have speed bleeders on. But I did what I thought would be correct in a proper brake bleeding process. After filling upper tank, gently applied pressure with lever and open and close quickly the bleeder to flush the line . The liquid coming out of the vacuum tube was running clear on both sides. Is it necessary to get into the ABS unit too?

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I am sorry if you already know this, but I'll say it anyway.

The fluid that goes in the handlebar resevoir is NOT the same fluid that comes out at the brake calliper end. These arre totally Isolated.

So, you need to

1/. Flush & bleed the front brake line from the resevoir on the handlebar down to the top of the Servo Unit

2/. Flush & bleed the rear brake line from the resevoir behind the RH side panel, to the top of the Servo Unit.

3/. Flush & bleed from the servo Unit down to both the front wheel callipers.

4/. Flush & bleed from the servo Unit down to the rear calliper.

 

So to answer the final bit of your question, Yes it is necessary to bleed the ABS unit (It is not really the ABS unit, it is the Servo Unit).

 

While you are at it you may as well do the clutch too.

 

Keep brake fluid away from paint and silver parts. It strips & discolours stuff.

 

The 1100 & the 1150 are totally different beasts with respect to bleeding. The 1100 is pretty much conventional, and so the fluid in the resevoir is what comes out at the calliper.

 

Andy

 

 

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If you are, like my goodself entirely anal :eek:, the best way to to your ABSII brakes is to remove the tank and also bleed the ABS unit. My 2000 R1100R has ABSII. The ABS unit has two bleeders, one for the rear brake circuit and one for the front circuit. Some of us, myself included, removed some gunky brown fluid from the ABS unit. This was even after a quick bleed through FIRST just at the calipers!

 

After that, my sequencing was to bleed to the ABS unit first, then on to the brake caliper bleeder. I always buy a litre of Ate Typ 200 or Ate Blu and alternate them at each brake bleed. They are different colours and it is noticeable when you do the bleed.

 

Last weekend, I did a bleed on a friends recently purchased R1200C with hydraulic clutch and ABSII brakes. I rode the bike and found the clutch difficult and the brakes very spongy. When we did a bleed on all 3 circuits (front & rear brakes and clutch), we discovered a large amount of air in all of them!! So I did an extended (anal!) bleed on them and the difference was very, very noticeable.

 

Anality RULES ;)!

 

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Hey;...

Hi Jaws1961, welcome to the forum. Could you complete your personal profile so we know a bit more about you and your bike.

 

I answered your question and then saw Philby's reply and so now I am not sure what system you want to know about. Do you have an 1100 (with ABS2) ir the 1150 (with iABS)?

 

Cheers

 

Andy

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Thanks with the great info on this issue. I just got one question, is all this info on brake bleeding still the same on a r1100rt? with ABS. I've already put a vacuum pump w/catch tank and got very little fluid out, but filled the upper tank 4 to 5 times. While using the front lever to help bleed. I don't have speed bleeders on. But I did what I thought would be correct in a proper brake bleeding process. After filling upper tank, gently applied pressure with lever and open and close quickly the bleeder to flush the line . The liquid coming out of the vacuum tube was running clear on both sides. Is it necessary to get into the ABS unit too?

At the last tech day that I went to, I was told that if the brake fluid is changed regularly (i.e., never allowed to get to the dark brown stage), working through the under tank ABS is unnecessary for a non-servo system such as on the 1100 series. I ignored the advice, and did it anyway, and sure enough, the fluid that came out was crystal clear, so it was basically a waste of effort.

 

Others may report different experiences... :/

 

My rule of thumb for replacing the brake fluid is that if it's the color of white wine, it's time to change; if it's the color of honey or tea, it's way past time. Changing at the chardonnay stage works out to 18-24 months for me (bike is almost always garaged when not being ridden). YMMV

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