Cheez Dad Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 VERY COOL!!! LIMECREEK you have a great bike! I have a 94 RSL with 75K on the odometer. The guys here have provided me with great and ACCURATE advice regarding repairs. If you ever head up to eastern WA state let me know would be great to see ANOTHER RSL in the metal. I finally went to our local BMW club meeting last night for the first time and only one of the 55 or so folks there knew what an RSL looks like. Keep up the restoration and Ill probably be bugging you for advise too! Ride safe! Link to comment
SKYGZR Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Seems that the only difference between an RS and an RSL is the side panels, "L" indicating "lowers". Otherwise, essentially the same. Link to comment
thencamebronson Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Not much new to report today. The left panel arrived today to replace the damaged (melted) original. The right panel was replaced at some point along with the shark fin (connector). I am assuming this was a single overheat event and repairs were made to the right hand side at that time. The RID is a replacement candidate too. It is melted and warped. The right inner upper dash piece was ruined when they used wood screws to install the distorted, but functioning RID. So a new dash panel is needed too. I replaced the rear wheel and rolled the bike onto my driveway today to degrease the motor and lower components. The lower potion of the 259 looks much better now. Cheers! Do I see Campagnolo on your "other" bike? Link to comment
philbytx Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Greg, Ever tried 303 Space Age Protectant on your rubber and plastic pieces parts? Been using it for years on our bikes, cages etc. and it all looks (and feels) like new. I recommend you buy a spray bottle and use it on your dash, rubber and wiring (and old wiring if you are keeping it!). Not greasy and shiny like Armor-all. Used in in aircraft cockpits for years and it works just great..... Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 The new Ultegra --better than the Dura Ace that was on there before my crash last summer, but that is another story. Link to comment
swmckinley Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Okay......see.....you don't understand Greg.......I guess you haven't met him? Let me enlighten you. Greg is a whack job.....no really....he is. But we love him dearly. The Greg Abides. Link to comment
eddd Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Okay......see.....you don't understand Greg.......I guess you haven't met him? Let me enlighten you. Greg is a whack job.....no really....he is. But we love him dearly. The Greg Abides. Link to comment
kmac Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I haven't met him. I haven't met anyone here. How do you know I am not a whack job?...Oh wait I admit that I am... Link to comment
kmac Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 But the medication helps... Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 How do you know that we exist at all... ? Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 Whack job--well, that is not too far off the mark. The replacement main harness arrived today and is an 8 out of 10 compared to the original one on the bike that is 4 out of 10. The original will be fixed and boxed as a spare. The replacement sheathing is in excellent shape as well as the plugs and other connections. It will require only minor attention before it goes back into the bike. Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 There is something to be said for road proven parts. The proverbial, if aint broke, don't fix it concept. If I were so concerned with no break downs, i would only put my kid on a nice new bike. That is actually what I do. My daughter has only had brand new bikes. I am very much with you on this one. I would MUCH rather have a bike with good miles under it's belt. Then you have confidence in it. A freshly rebuilt, or even a new one leaves me feeling nervous....until the miles have built up. So I would rather leave mostly all well alone apart from baseline maintenance items. Andy Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 I am very much with you on this one. I would MUCH rather have a bike with good miles under it's belt. Then you have confidence in it. A freshly rebuilt, or even a new one leaves me feeling nervous....until the miles have built up. So I would rather leave mostly all well alone apart from baseline maintenance items. For me I am just the opposite. When I see a wiring harness that will chafe and short out, I am going to fix it. When I measure a clutch that is outside the wear limit, I am going to replace it. When I see the HES wiring with cracks in the insulation I am going to repair it—better than new. When I observe the paralever bearings are shot I am going to replace them with bushings and not have to worry about it again. When the clutch, choke, and throttle cables are worn out originals, I am going to replace them with new. When I see the brake lines are in average condition, I am going to replace them, because I already have the entire bike apart. Coming from a manufacturing background, don’t fix what isn’t a broken, will end in ruin, most of the time. Proactive repair and preventative maintenance is prudent. But I guess we are all different and see things through different lenses. Yes, I am going to fix this…. Cheers! Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 I'm absolutely with you on fixing broken stuff. Andy Link to comment
swmckinley Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 This is not a reply to anyone specifically. I don't think that this thread is concerns "why should Greg rehabilitate this bike". Greg purchased this bike expressly for the propose of a total re-build, an excuse to spend quality time with his son and just because he wants to learn more about BMW motorcycles. Many of us here in the central Texas area have benefited greatly from Greg's curiosity, mechanical abilities and generous offerings of garage space in the way of many tech days hosted by him. A select few of us have a garage pass at Greg's Garage, for a tire change, oil change or some advice, help or tools to fix a problem with our bikes. So follow along....enjoy the thread........but to question the wisdom of re-building this bike, I think it will fall on deaf ears. Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 A lot of people seem to be uneasy with the idea that even BMWs wear out. It kind-of kills the mystique for some people. When I bought my first beemer, an r1100r with 60k miles on it, I was under the mistaken impression that BMWs were bullet proof. After many such repairs as those listed above, I have come to the conclusion that beemers are "bullet resistant". They will list forever, if you are willing to put the time and energy into maintaining them. The only bullet proof BMW I have ever seen is the one in my avatar Link to comment
philbytx Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Greg, See my earlier post on 303 Space Age Protectant for the harness, wiring and connectors. As far the electrical connections themselves, I've used DeOxit D5 and P5 for years now on both cages and bikes. D5 treats older connectors and then P5 preserves both new and old. This was recommended to me by a very experienced A&P mechanic who, amongst other things, restored vintage aircraft. Link to comment
Costa Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 This is not a reply to anyone specifically. I don't think that this thread is concerns "why should Greg rehabilitate this bike". Greg purchased this bike expressly for the propose of a total re-build, an excuse to spend quality time with his son and just because he wants to learn more about BMW motorcycles. Many of us here in the central Texas area have benefited greatly from Greg's curiosity, mechanical abilities and generous offerings of garage space in the way of many tech days hosted by him. A select few of us have a garage pass at Greg's Garage, for a tire change, oil change or some advice, help or tools to fix a problem with our bikes. So follow along....enjoy the thread........but to question the wisdom of re-building this bike, I think it will fall on deaf ears. +1 on all the above. Com'on everybody let's enjoy the re-build and the end result. PS:Greg good on you to tackle a long project like this.It's a good excuse for me now,to come and ride at the Hill Country and on the way back stop by and check your project in person,since I couldn't attend your last two tech days at your place. Keep the good work going my friend. Constantine. Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 This is not a reply to anyone specifically. I don't think that this thread is concerns "why should Greg rehabilitate this bike". Greg purchased this bike expressly for the propose of a total re-build, an excuse to spend quality time with his son and just because he wants to learn more about BMW motorcycles. Many of us here in the central Texas area have benefited greatly from Greg's curiosity, mechanical abilities and generous offerings of garage space in the way of many tech days hosted by him. A select few of us have a garage pass at Greg's Garage, for a tire change, oil change or some advice, help or tools to fix a problem with our bikes. So follow along....enjoy the thread........but to question the wisdom of re-building this bike, I think it will fall on deaf ears. Steve's more than correct, here. Link to comment
Ponch Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 A job worth doing, is worth doing right. Not only that, you might as well as it's all apart now. The worst thing is to have to revisit something because of laziness or parsimony. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 Nice to see my buds sticking up for me. Guess this means I am buying breakfast next time. I do have a question, however. My brake discs are way outside of the wear limit. I am looking for alternatives to the high $$ BMW frisbees. Any suggestions? Link to comment
Ponch Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I think JVB tried some aftermarket ones and said they weren't any better. http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_Wave_Rotor_Install.html Read at the end. Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I put an EBC rear rotor on my 1100. It was a lot cheaper at the time than OEM. Good quality. No problems so far. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 EBC--I'll have to check them out. $1500 for 3 disks is a bit steep. There has to be some very good alternatives. I wonder if you can get them directly from Brembo? Link to comment
rad Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 January 8 I'm sick and twisted....I like a bike in this condition, as long as I have another one that is running Great project Link to comment
Boffin Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 EBC--I'll have to check them out. $1500 for 3 disks is a bit steep. There has to be some very good alternatives. I wonder if you can get them directly from Brembo? I believe Brembo are contractually prevented from direct sales. I went with Grimeca - Motobins ship to the US in about 7 days. Andy Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 I believe Brembo are contractually prevented from direct sales. I went with Grimeca - Motobins ship to the US in about 7 days So far those are the best prices I've seem. Thanks for the tip. The good news is I'll only need the rear rotor immediately. I went back and measured them again and found I had missed a graduation line on the micrometer. Must remember to wear my reading glasses all the time now. Fronts are within spec and the rear is out. Link to comment
hopz Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Have you seen the Pashnit site? They frequently have group buys that are attractive. And of course Beemerboneyard.... Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 My replacement RID arrived today, but the guy ended up sending me the 6 speed version or to be exact the 5+E version. This was used on the R1100GS and R850. Is it compatable with the 5 speed? He sold me the 5 speed, but sent the 6 speed version. I'll keep it if it will work. Any RID experts out there? Link to comment
philbytx Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Greg, On the parts fiche, it is a different part number for your bike (ending in 79850) and the description is "6 Gang" (german for 6 gears, even though you have 5!). The 5+E still indicates 6 gears (5 plus E) even though your bike only has 5. So, just to cover yourself, you could just let the guy know about the different part numbers and that you are happy to try it (are you??) once you put it all back. It will never show more than 5 anyway ! HOWEVER, I reckon if the connectors are the same, it may well work for you. It's only a matter of signals up and down and all the 5 speed bikes with RID's use the same gear indicator switch on the gearbox, part number 61312306519. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 The plug and wires are identical and it is a 6 gang plug, so I think it will work. I found an upper fairing this morning and have made an offer to the seller. That will be the last bit of cosmetic stuff I'll need to replace. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 We made a little bit more progress today. Team Mallet There isn’t much left of the bike at this point. January 16, 2011 Splines look good. Clutch is in spec, but barely, so a new one will go in. Link to comment
Skywagon Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 what did you use to get the engine and transmission so clean? Link to comment
philbytx Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 You two using some of Whip's employees Greg ? You and your son's hands are waaaaaaaaaayyyyy too clean Link to comment
swmckinley Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Time to buy a digital Micrometer with led display my friend.Our old eyes need all the help they can get!!! Who you gonna believe- me, or your lying eyes. Link to comment
swmckinley Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 That picture gives a new meaning to me of "the engine is a stressed member of the frame". Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 That bike's nice and clean looking without all that annoying wiring! Link to comment
SKYGZR Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Gonna need new shocks, might as well pull the front sliders off and replace the fork seals and dust caps, and oil, (now that's gonna be a balancing act... )..can't wait to the that pic!..Oh yea, might as well check the front calipers to make sure all the pistons are functioning.. (I'm in the process of rebuilding..only one would push out when checking while installing HEL lines.)..Oh yea, might as well do those also.. Link to comment
kmac Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 EBC--I'll have to check them out. $1500 for 3 disks is a bit steep. There has to be some very good alternatives. I wonder if you can get them directly from Brembo? Motorcycle Superstore {no affiliation, just happened to see an add} Carries some BMW specific parts. They carry EBC rotors for the R series for about 250 bucks a piece. The look like nice pieces especially at half the cost. I know your bike is an RSL not an RT, but I think the rotors are the same. No brake stuff came up under the RSL link, but these came up for my RT. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/82/11071/17919/PITEM/EBC-Pro-Lite-Contour-Front-Brake-Rotor-1996-BMW-R1100RT-ABS-Parts.aspx http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/82/19023/17919/PITEM/EBC-Pro-Lite-Rear-Brake-Rotor-1996-BMW-R1100RT-ABS-Parts.aspx Link to comment
SKYGZR Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Just purchased a pair of EBC's (and new pads) for the R here: CycleBrakes Download the catalog to confirm part numbers. They gave a discount for ordering the Disk's and Pad's together, prompt shipping. Think it was about $520 or so. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 There isn’t a whole lot of interesting things to report this week. Supplies are coming in like the wire I’ll use to rebuild the HES harness. Thanks Seth! And, please come back. Parts are being cleaned of old thread locker, awaiting the permanent bushing replacements. The starter will be disassembled next week to inspect the can and bushings. Lots of replacement parts are on order and man are they expensive. Want to guess what the clutch disk cost? And I need the entire clutch pack…..ugh. The rear main is weeping….probably at the cost of its replacement! The gear box is clean and awaiting new seals. And the K bike; jealous over all the attention the old RSL is getting got a new can yesterday. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 When I pulled the gearbox I noticed oil on the clutch push rod. Not a lot but enough to be concerned about. I plan to replace all gearbox seals. Will that fix the source of the oil on the push rod or am I overlooking something? Thanks in advance for the help. Link to comment
dan cata Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 When I pulled the gearbox I noticed oil on the clutch push rod. Not a lot but enough to be concerned about. I plan to replace all gearbox seals. Will that fix the source of the oil on the push rod or am I overlooking something? Thanks in advance for the help. On an 1100? On a 1150 it might be brake fluid, right? There are some upgraded seals for the gearbox input shaft, less prone to failure and improved design... Have you guys ever considered drilling a small hole on the bottom of the gearbox, where it meets the engine? Some K-riders do it... Dan. Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Have you guys ever considered drilling a small hole on the bottom of the gearbox, where it meets the engine? Some K-riders do it...Not typically necessary on a boxer. The main seal isn't really a problem. On the 1100's oil on the clutch pushrod is usually from the rear input shaft seal, that works its way forward on the pushrod and can contaminate the clutch plates. Later 1100's had a felt washer added to the pushrod to help prevent oil from traveling forward. Link to comment
Edgar Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Oil on the push rod is a strong sign that the seals are leaking, and you should address it given where you are. You'll have to open up the box and then you can replace the 4 internal seals. Take a close look at the shift forks while you are in there. Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Oil on the push rod What push rod? Andy Link to comment
Limecreek Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Technically, it is call a clutch thrust rod, but I think we all are talking about the same thing. Yes, it looks like I'll be splitting the gearbox case to get to the output shaft seal--ugh. That is quite a bit of work to get to a seal; something BMW corrected on the later gearbox. That work is 2 weeks off. My son needs to reassemble the starter motor this weekend and then we can move onto replacing the seals in the gearbox. The starter is getting new brushes, bushings and a new magnetic housing. Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 the 4 internal sealsFive, actually. Input shaft (both ends), output shaft, gear position indicator and shifter. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 February 5, 2011. Brandon and I completed the first part of the RSL restoration—overhauling a Valeo starter. We replaced the field magnet housing, the brushes and a couple of bushings. It went smoothly with the exception of getting the collar up over the retaining ring on the starter shaft. We had to use a gear puller and a lot of ugly faces to coax the collar onto the retaining ring. Next week, we open the gearbox and begin replacing the seals after that we go after the rear main seal and then install the clutch pack. Link to comment
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