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New Life for an Old R1100RSL


Limecreek

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Last Saturday I went for a test ride on an old BMW twin—an oil head, and a RSL none the less; a bike I’ve been smitten with for quite a long time. The test ride went fine and I made an offer of $2500. Two hours later I rode her home and park her next to my K12GT.

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What to my surprise when I found she had suffered an overheating event in her lifetime. Pulling the right fairing off was a bit of a shock. I had noticed the connecting fairings were scorched a bit during my inspection, but that was a well documented problem, and documented by BMW no less, so it was kind of expected or a least not something to worry about.

 

The RSL is not a bike you can start and walk away from. If you do, she will get red hot and start melting things. In fact BMW had a recall campaign of sorts back in the 90’s to protect stupid Americans from themselves by issuing stickers and addendums to the owners manual-- warning of certain doom if you left your air cooled bike sitting around idling. Ah, no kidding? Really?

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At first I was concerned the 259 motor may have suffered damage from an extended overheating event, even thought my ride of more than 50 miles revealed a tight, strong motor and slick gear box. The motor ran cool, without knocks or unusual noises.

 

Still I started looking for other indicators that the over heating event was acute, but didn’t find any. The HES wiring to the original HES was intact, the original oil site glass was still there and the oil was clear and free of foreign matter.

 

Ok, she remains a restoration candidate and not an expensive parts bike.

 

And that is the point of this thread. This will be a year long documented restoration project that my son Brandon and I will work on.

 

The objective is to restore the bike back to a condition where she is reliable for coast to coast travel and to reset her life clock back where she will be good for another 100K. She currently has 57K miles on the clock.

 

We are deep into the restoration and I am cataloging all the parts that will need refurbishment or out right replacement. I’ll keep tack of every dime we spend throughout the project.

 

January 3, 2011

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January 5, 2001

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I have a few parts on the way—a fairing, a right brake handle and a complete main wiring harness. The harness on the bike is fine, but the outer insulation has become brittle. I’ll pull that harness and restore it—keeping it for a spare.

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The RSL is without records, however I found out she was sold in Nevada where she spent her first 12 years, arriving in Texas in 2007. I am digging into her past and have a name and address of the Nevada owner.

 

Well, that is it for now.

 

I hope you will participate in the restoration with tips, help, and suggestions. I will post back here frequently.

 

Cheers!

 

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Hey, what the hell? I've got a black '96 11RSL. Almost 60K on the clock. Bought it used a couple years ago with 20K. Had an overheat / no-oil incident that almost ruined it. It's my daily driver. Rode it cross country last year and it still seems new, expensive and fancy to me.

 

What's all this crap about an "OLD" 11rsl that needs a restore job? Put it back together and ride that darn thing.

 

Oh, just one thing - lose that lousy red seat....

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I will definately be keeping my eye ont his thread. it slooks very interesting. If you are doing a teardown might I suggest powdercoating all the cases, valve covers, swingarms and wheels black? It would look good to accent the pearl white you are planning and since your doing all the labor anyway.

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Keep in mind that the HEs wires become brittle on the inside of the wires, the 4 wires that do the job (+,-,signal 1 and signal2) and not on the outside black tube.

 

So if you have it stripped down, it's worth to change the wiring on it ;)

 

Dan.

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I'm not entirely sure what you're trying to "restore." The bike starts and runs, and it's realitively low-mile. If I simply "had" to do something (an entirely undestandable emotion, btw), I'd replace the HES, the fuel lines, the brake lines and the throttle cables. Then do a quick tune up and you're off! $500-$600 tops.

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Remember this is a father and son project and I didn't want to restore/refurbish a basket case. I needed a running, all original bike that needed work and this one, so far fits the requirement.

 

As we go through each system it will be inspected and tested and reused if it is in at least good condition.

 

So far the main wiring harness does not meet the good condition requirement, I am sure the HES will need replacement, all the cables on the bike are crap (originals), the brake lines need replacement, the RID gear indicator is not working--probably the switch and my guess is the clutch is nearing the end of it's life too. Any most of the rubber parts, grommets, sleeves, etc. are cracking.

 

Anyway, watch along if you like. It is nothing more than a fun project for the two of us and we’ll end up with a bike that we know we can rely on.

 

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My $.02

Don't keep track of your costs. You will feel better when your done.

:thumbsup:

 

You may be right, but you know me.

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Oh, just one thing - lose that lousy red seat....

 

Agree. I do like the black paint, but not that seat, at all.

 

Still haven't settled on a color, but paint will not come until late this summer or fall.

 

 

 

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Bruce (Bedford)

Jet black paint - drool!!!

I hate my green/blue puke paintwork!

Next year or the year after or if I get some work & can manipulate the Mrs even sooner, I intend to have every bit of plastic off and get it re-sprayed.

Until then I'll be watching your rebuild with interest, I changed my clutch over the Christmas holiday, BMW allow 10 hours - I took a week but casual, plastic goes back on tomorrow with new fastenings - ahhhh at last.

 

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...I do like the black paint, but not that seat, at all....

 

Send it up to Rich's for a custom seat. He really does a beautiful job, and it'll be Iron Butt ready to boot.

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Great project! Congratulations.

 

I have done several total resorations and on one, I kept records... not only of parts but a daily log of the work I did as well as parts purchased etc. Never do this! It will haunt you.

 

On the overheat... is there any indication that the engine was changed? Matching numbers etc?

 

I did a cosmetic restoration on a R1100R. Came out nice, sold it to a fellow who left it running to take a phone call. Local independent shop replaced the motor... yours original?

 

 

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Bruce (Bedford)

:clap:

I've gotta have a Rich's seat!!!!! Drat I'm in the UK, I never thought I'd EVER say this but - I want to come to the USofA!

I'm going to do some 4k of touring this year & I know from last years trips that numb bum is a fact of life.

I wonder if 'her indoors' could spin some magic - hum, next task look for a scrap seat on eBay!!!

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Jet black paint - drool!!!

I hate my green/blue puke paintwork!

...... I intend to have every bit of plastic off and get it re-sprayed....

 

How about Automobile Association yellow!

 

Andy

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Bruce (Bedford)

I have just 'strolled' through the Pictures pages to this BRILLIANT forum - I guess I should apologise to everyone who likes my colour BMW, and especially to the very yellow ones!

Hey in every silver lining there has to be a cloud.

(I’m still drooling over the jet black though)

 

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On the overheat... is there any indication that the engine was changed? Matching numbers etc?

 

Engine to frame? I am not sure that is possbile. If it is, please clue me in and I'll check it out.

 

 

 

 

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I have just 'strolled' through the Pictures pages to this BRILLIANT forum - I guess I should apologise to everyone who likes my colour BMW, and especially to the very yellow ones!

Hey in every silver lining there has to be a cloud.

(I’m still drooling over the jet black though)

 

Just a thought before you spend on the black paint job, take it from someone who owns one, its beautiful just after being cleaned and polished .........

then about 5 mins later a spec of dust land on it an it needs cleaning again :dopeslap:

 

I'm keeping the original bodywork and have had the replacement stuff already done a pearl white ( for visibility mainly ) as white looks cleaner longer :clap:

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Welcome back to the wonderful world of single spark oilheads Greg :thumbsup:

I love the RS's....got one of my riding buddies to come back from the dark side and sell his FJR for a 2004 RS. Lovely bike.

 

+1 on a new HES or rewired if you feel adventurous :grin:.

I would also remove the starter and strip it down to see if you have (or the potential for) detached magnet issues. If the starter is in good nick but the magnets are iffy, just go to John at Euromotoelectrics and replace the can and install a new brush kit while you are at it.

 

My 2000 R1100R also suffered from rubber deterioration during its 5 years in storage and I have (and still am!) replacing tubing etc every time I do a job on it. I would definitely start with the FI tubing (both high and low pressure) and you will prolly find that the tubing to the bottom of the throttle bodies is brittle or on its way out as well.

 

Remember to do the LH cam tensioner upgrade while you are at it.

 

Just extemporating here......much more to think of. What a great project though....tonsa fun :clap:

 

 

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:clap:

I've gotta have a Rich's seat!!!!! Drat I'm in the UK, I never thought I'd EVER say this but - I want to come to the USofA!

I'm going to do some 4k of touring this year & I know from last years trips that numb bum is a fact of life.

I wonder if 'her indoors' could spin some magic - hum, next task look for a scrap seat on eBay!!!

 

Try to get either an 1150RT seat or the comfort version for the 1100RT, as the std RT seat is pretty bad as far as comfort goes and I find it only good for about 200 miles at a time, the comfort seat I found good for about 800 in a day ...... before the numbness set in ......

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I pulled the rear wheel off tonight. My gosh that thing is heavy. A 4 spoke 17" wheel is definitely going on this bike.

 

I've reached a point where things will slow a bit. I need to order a clutch pack, neutral and gear switches, prior to pulling the gear box.

 

At 57K miles should I consider going into the M94 gearbox? It shifts well and doesn't make any noise.

 

January 6th

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Does it have any tendancy to pop out of 2nd gear when you open it up? Any chunks stuck to the drain plug magnet?

 

No on popping out of gear on my shakedown ride and I really got on the throttle. I haven't drained the gear box yet, so I don't have an answer on question #2.

 

I did have trouble find neutral a few times, but figured it was me vs. the bike.

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Limecreek, I own the same bike as posted over on the RS forum.

 

If the Transmission shifts good, I think I'd not worry about it with that many miles on the clock. It has probably already been repaired of the shortcomings of the early trannys. Mine had.

 

I've got a spare seat that is almost black, the dark charcoal grey color, in excellent shape. If you would like some pics, pm your email addy.

 

Also have a spare RID if it turns out that you need one. the little rubber plug is gone to set the minutes, but you could replace it with one of the plugs out of your old one.

 

Ken

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As they say over at J.C. Whitney, From this...

 

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To This!!

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I love my RS!! I look forward to many posts and pics as you complete this project.

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Evening bedfrod,

Just so you know NOT everyone loves that Glacier Green color. My RT is GG and I dont like it either. Paint is in my future, at some point.

 

If some like the color, that is fine, but I dont. That is what makes the world go round though right, well not really, that is Gravity...but that is what makes life colorfull....well that is actually light....you get the point. :grin:

 

 

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Evening Limecreek,

You think your rear wheel is heavy? Am I missing something? This is my first bmw {R1100RT} and i have the same rear wheel as you, the 3 spoke, and i could not believe how light it was.

 

I only have regular bike rear wheels to compare it to, so to me it seemed light. Even against my KTM 530 wheel it seemed light. I do realize that all of my other bikes have had a sprocket, brake rotor, and a hub with bearings in it so my history can not compare directly, but man my RT wheel felt light to me.

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Paul Mihalka

Nice project. Gear box: If the input shaft splines are OK I would leave it alone. My '99 R1100RT blew the clutch splines at 100K, so at that time with the new shaft it got new bearings and seals. No more trouble to 175K when I sold it.

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You think your rear wheel is heavy? Am I missing something?

I've been spoiled by the light weight wheels on the new BMWs. I'll bet the RSL 18" wheel is several pounds heavier than the one on my KGT. Really not a big deal either way, but I was looking for one more excuse to switch to the 17" 1150 wheel--and found it. :grin:

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Based on the advice here and in my PMs, I've decided to leave the gearbox as is. I guess I ended up with a good M94 box.

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+1 for prolly keeping as is and just a spline lube.

HOWEVER, if you have the time and inclination ;), replacing the seals wouldn't be a BAD idea Greg.

 

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Why are you stripping what looks like an excellent lowish mileage bike apart for?

Is the gearbox defective? Does the clutch slip?

I am confused. Please enlighten an intrested onlooker.

I am with Kmac too, I don't consider htese wheels to be heavy at all.

 

Andy

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Paul Mihalka
You think your rear wheel is heavy? Am I missing something?

I've been spoiled by the light weight wheels on the new BMWs. I'll bet the RSL 18" wheel is several pounds heavier than the one on my KGT. Really not a big deal either way, but I was looking for one more excuse to switch to the 17" 1150 wheel--and found it. :grin:

I don't think you can fit the wheel from a R1150. The wheel from a K1200LT or early K1200S will fit perfectly but looks different.
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1. Because the bike has issues, he wishes to educate his son and

he can also get all mechanically anal on his ass :rofl:

2. Evidently not, see 1. above ;)

3. See 1 & 2 above.

4. I also agree, I reckon Greg's just getting old is all :grin:

 

But HERE is Anton's guide for "retro'ing" BMW wheels :thumbsup:

 

Sorry Greg, didn't mean to speak for ya but...... LOL !

 

 

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+1 for prolly keeping as is and just a spline lube.

HOWEVER, if you have the time and inclination ;), replacing the seals wouldn't be a BAD idea Greg.

From experience, the most likely place for the M94 to leak is the rear seal of the input shaft. Remove the clutch actuation lever and the rubber boot around the thrust bearing. If you find tranny oil there, then replace the seal. Mine was on its way of 60K miles. If allowed to seep, oil can work its way up the clutch pushrod (through the hollow input shaft) and foul the clutch plates.
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From above:

 

Remember this is a father and son project and I didn't want to restore/refurbish a basket case. I needed a running, all original bike that needed work and this one, so far fits the requirement.

 

As we go through each system it will be inspected and tested and reused if it is in at least good condition.

 

So far the main wiring harness does not meet the good condition requirement, I am sure the HES will need replacement, all the cables on the bike are crap (originals), the brake lines need replacement, the RID gear indicator is not working--probably the switch and my guess is the clutch is nearing the end of it's life too. Any most of the rubber parts, grommets, sleeves, etc. are cracking.

 

Anyway, watch along if you like. It is nothing more than a fun project for the two of us and we’ll end up with a bike that we know we can rely on.

 

You cannot see what I see just by looking at the pictures. It needs a lot of work before I trust it to cross New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah.

 

With any luck, this bike will carry my son across his first long journey and the last thing I want to have happen is to breakdown, far from any service for an issue that I’ll find and fix during the restore.

 

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+1 for prolly keeping as is and just a spline lube.

HOWEVER, if you have the time and inclination ;), replacing the seals wouldn't be a BAD idea Greg.

From experience, the most likely place for the M94 to leak is the rear seal of the input shaft. Remove the clutch actuation lever and the rubber boot around the thrust bearing. If you find tranny oil there, then replace the seal. Mine was on its way of 60K miles. If allowed to seep, oil can work its way up the clutch pushrod (through the hollow input shaft) and foul the clutch plates.

 

Ok, it is on the inspection list. Thx!

 

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Even if you rebuild every nut, bolt, washer, and do dad, there are no guarantees of NO trouble while out on a ride. But there is a bit of peace of mind.

 

I have seen worse things than a break down out on a long ride. I know of 2 guys that were riding through South America and had a break down. They had to order parts and while they were waiting for them to get the supplies, the Chilean earth quake happened. They were safe, but ended up staying for weeks and helping out with the rescue and re-settling of people down there. It ended up being one of those personally rewarding, self sacricing experiences in life that helped them see that life is bigger than just themselves.

 

Remeber life is about the journey, not the destination.

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Not much new to report today.

 

The left panel arrived today to replace the damaged (melted) original. The right panel was replaced at some point along with the shark fin (connector). I am assuming this was a single overheat event and repairs were made to the right hand side at that time.

 

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The RID is a replacement candidate too. It is melted and warped. The right inner upper dash piece was ruined when they used wood screws to install the distorted, but functioning RID. So a new dash panel is needed too.

 

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I replaced the rear wheel and rolled the bike onto my driveway today to degrease the motor and lower components. The lower potion of the 259 looks much better now.

 

 

Cheers!

 

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But why cause the journey to become a little "fraught" if you end up second-guessing yourself :eek:

 

I was not implying that they should not rebuild everything. Just saying that if it seems in good shape, there is no guarantee that even rebuilding or replacing something will make it better.

 

There is something to be said for road proven parts. The proverbial, if aint broke, don't fix it concept.

 

If I were so concerned with no break downs, i would only put my kid on a nice new bike. That is actually what I do. My daughter has only had brand new bikes.

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there are no guarantees of NO trouble while out on a ride.
Unless you ride a Honda. ;)

 

could have fooled me....had an ST1300 with problems and ironically the final drive leaked oil too....LOL

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