1100RTP idle issue, need input.......

[KER]

One of my employees has a '00 1100RTP, last week his clutch cable snapped at the lever and was dead in the water, we were able to limp it over to a friends house where we were able to store it. Went back the next day with part in hand, replaced the cable and adjusted the clutch. After putting all the tupperware back on I remember to check and make sure the throttle cables were seated...after fixing that, we buttoned the bike up and away we went, everything working fine. Jump to a few days later, now the bike is not idling very well, it stutters around 800rpm (should be 1100) and it is missing every couple of fires. Once it revs up to about 2k rpm it smooths out and runs fine. He says gas mileage has gone down about 20%, and now he mentioned when locking the handlebars full RIGHT the throttle starts to rev a little. He took it to a shop yesterday and had the throttle bodies and valves adjusted, didn't change anything. 6 Months back he had an ignition coil go bad and I replaced it with a used one (still have the original coil and 1 good stick), when that died the bike was only running on 1 cylinder. I haven't gotten a chance to look at it again since this started happening, so I thought I would reach out to you all and get some opinions on where to start.....

 

quick recap:

Bike 2000 1100RTP

-stutters and idles at 800rpm

-smooths out at 2K RPM and works fine after that

-gas mileage has gone down about 20% (fuel filter replaced last maintenance)

-throttle advances when handlebars are full locked right

-just had throttle bodies and valves adjusted (didnt have any affect on issue)

 

 

[dan cata]

Could the fuel filter be installed backwards? Just asking...

 

About the revving... are the throttle cables and the fast idle routed between the forks? Turn the handlebar all the way and see what plate side does not rest on it's stopping screw.

 

If the bike was OK before the fuel filter job and started to act weird after that, you know where's the problem

 

Dan.

[KER]

Could the fuel filter be installed backwards? Just asking...

 

About the revving... are the throttle cables and the fast idle routed between the forks? Turn the handlebar all the way and see what plate side does not rest on it's stopping screw.

 

If the bike was OK before the fuel filter job and started to act weird after that, you know where's the problem

 

Dan.

 

filter was replaced 6 months ago, no issues until recently.

[oldyam]

Something got put back wrong to suddenly cause the problem,

with the throttle on RH lock. ( recheck the throttle cable seating )

 

I would look to sort that first as it may be whats causing the other problems either partially or in total.

 

The shop should have fixed this first.

 

Are any of the cables tight or extra loose ?

 

[KER]

Something got put back wrong to suddenly cause the problem,

with the throttle on RH lock. ( recheck the throttle cable seating )

I agree, not a big deal probably just a tight cable.

 

I would look to sort that first as it may be whats causing the other problems either partially or in total.

All cables are functioning correctly when the handlebars are in a neutral position.

The shop should have fixed this first.

 

Are any of the cables tight or extra loose ?

 

everything was working fine for a few days after the clutch cable was replaced. The issue started randomlly a couple of days later.

[Goomicoo]

Off comes the tupperware

[Jim Moore]

"-smooths out at 2K RPM and works fine after that"

 

That leads me to believe there is a small piece of debris stuck in one of the throttle cable pulley slots. It's screwing up your synch at low rpms, but once the throttle is turned past the obstruction if cures itself.

[JoeR]

"-smooths out at 2K RPM and works fine after that"

 

That leads me to believe there is a small piece of debris stuck in one of the throttle cable pulley slots. It's screwing up your synch at low rpms, but once the throttle is turned past the obstruction if cures itself.

 

+1

[notacop]

When I had to follow someone else in a repair at work, I always asked them what they had done. Then I could retrace their steps and usually find the problem. Time to rip the body work off and retrace your steps.

[Bruce (Bedford)]

Check the throttle cable - AND - the link cable (although I don't think yours is like my '96RT) I had the self same problem, eventually I read about someone disturbing the link cable, I checked and low & behold TA~RAAH problem solved.

I did conjure up a carb balancing device out of cheap plastic tube and balanced the carbs too - and what a difference that made to the smooth running of the old girl!

Bedford

 

[KER]

just to let everyone know, we spent hours and hours the other day tracking down this issue. After taking everything apart down the intake tubes all the way to the cylinder, we finally gave in and took to the local BMW dealer. They originally thought that the throttle cables started to stretch and were causing the issues, however after they looked at it today they determined that Throttle position sensor is bad. They sent a quote of $500+/- for the repair.

[Selden]

I don't want to second-guess anybody, but this just doesn't sound right. If the bike was running fine before the clutch lever broke, how could that affect the TPS? It seems like a very unlikely coincidence that the TPS would spontaneously go bad at the same time as the clutch lever.

 

I don't suppose there is any chance of getting a second opinion from another dealer?

[dan cata]

just to let everyone know, we spent hours and hours the other day tracking down this issue. After taking everything apart down the intake tubes all the way to the cylinder, we finally gave in and took to the local BMW dealer. They originally thought that the throttle cables started to stretch and were causing the issues, however after they looked at it today they determined that Throttle position sensor is bad. They sent a quote of $500+/- for the repair.

 

The TPS can be tested for errors... Look in the HOW on advrider.com and see how you can adjust it. Connect the DVM to it and twist the throttle and see if the voltage rises as it should between pins 1 and 4. The max as I remember is 4.65V with the key switched on and engine not running.

 

Dan.

[Paul De]

Seems you are way past my swag on this. If the TPS checks out OK, You might want to be sure the connectors/wires to the fuel injectors are securely connected.

 

$500 for the TPS....does that include installation and calibration time?

 

[Syro]

KER,

 

well i did encounter something close to your problem and after checking the entire bike twice , by pure blind luck we found out that it was the left spark plug which when the bike was cold was OK but when it warmed up it started to malfunaction not trasnfering power as it should.

 

Hope i helped.(it took me almost 2 weeks and endless tupperware removals)

[dan cata]

just to let everyone know, we spent hours and hours the other day tracking down this issue. After taking everything apart down the intake tubes all the way to the cylinder, we finally gave in and took to the local BMW dealer. They originally thought that the throttle cables started to stretch and were causing the issues, however after they looked at it today they determined that Throttle position sensor is bad. They sent a quote of $500+/- for the repair.

 

If there was any work done on the L/H side TB, make sure that the ground wire is connected to the TB

 

Dan

[KER]

Seems you are way past my swag on this. If the TPS checks out OK, You might want to be sure the connectors/wires to the fuel injectors are securely connected.

 

$500 for the TPS....does that include installation and calibration time?

 

keep in mind this is not MY bike, just helping one of our riders, but yes that included the diagnostic (where they found a bad TPS), installation and calibration, valve adj/and TB sync.