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'96 r1100rt abs brake fluid bleed


Bruce (Bedford)

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Bruce (Bedford)

I need to re fill & bleed my abs system having replaced the rear brake cylinder & disconnected the rear caliper.

Web searches show later versions and some suggest bleeding at the abs some not.

Anyone done this?

Regards

Bedford

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Do you have a Haynes manual or similar? They can be a great help in step by step procedures.

On my '96, I bled it just like you do a car brake system. Some of the newer bikes, like the 1150's, have servo brakes and bleeding is more involved.

If this info is not correct, someone much smarter than me will come along and correct it.

 

Wow, I just noticed you joined TODAY! Happy New Year and welcome to the forum!

 

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Danny caddyshack Noonan

Bedford

There are arguments for yes and no. If you can get the tank up, or off, you won't hurt anything by bleeding at the ABS nipple. In particular if you haven't bleed the ABS previously.

 

On the other hand, it isn't terribly easy to get to the nipple.

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I just bled my brakes on my '96 RT and did it like you would a regular brake system. Pump, hold, bleed at the caliper nipple. I got feed back in both directions. To do it at the abs piston under the tank and to just do it at the caliper. I opted for just the caliper and it feels like it worked fine. It flush a vast majority of the fluid doingf it at the caliper from what i can tell.

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Jerry Johnston

Same as Outpost22, I bled the brakes on my 96RT the same as a car. I did use speed bleeders however. I just open the bleeder and made sure I never let the tank run dry to prevent getting air bubbles in the system.

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Bruce (Bedford)

Outpost 22 - Thanks my friend, you noticed I just joined!

 

All

 

I have put a new clutch in my RT over Christmas, it’s my 1st bike for 40 years & just about the biggest job!! It’s got to be ready for some more serious touring next spring; I did France twice last year after only having the bike for 6 months!

 

The Haynes book says “refer to BMW main dealer if the ABS is involved” - ah well.

 

As I’ve been doing the clutch the tank is off & the ABS exposed, various web comments speak about the ABS as having ‘modulator stuff’ & filling the system via the abs (later 1150 models??) and an excellent but later 1150 model uTube video shows the callipers being closed back – durr why?

 

Seems to me that I use the reservoirs for the back brake system and front brake system and ‘pump away’ as one would do a car, bleeding both at the abs and callipers until a) all air is out (back brake system) and b) the fluid runs clear (both front and back)

 

One presumes that the two systems are not connected??? What goes on in the abs unit is a mystery to me!!

 

Bedford

 

Oh – Happy New Year everyone!!!!!

 

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Mornin' Bedford,

 

the 1100 system is quite straightforward and can be bled from reservoir to calliper. There is no hydraulic linking from front to rear on the 1100. The reason for pushing the pistons back into the calliper is to ensure all of the old fluid is removed, with none trapped in the pistons.

 

Next time you need to take the tank off it would be good practice to bleed out the ABS unit too, as a little fluid gets trapped up by the bleeders. The 1100 ABS system is quite simple and is repairable to a limited degree, unlike the over-complex 4-circuit, electro-mechanical servo assisted ABS system fitted to the 1150.

 

Oh - and welcome to BMWST - whereabouts in the UK are you - is there a clue in your username?

 

Andy

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+1 for what Boffin has said. On my 96 1100RS I have always used nothing more than a cheap bleeder (i.e. a tube with a one-way valve - a small improvement on a jam jar and a piece of tube). On separate occasions I have replaced the front master cylinder, fitted stainless hose and changed the brake fluid.I have never had to use any fancy brake bleeders to do any of these jobs.

 

With regard to bleeding the ABS modulator my practice is that, if I have the tank off for some other reason I'll do it; if I am just changing the fluid I don't otherwise bother. I change the fluid every year. I believe that this is why I have never experienced any discolouration of the fluid that comes from the ABS modulator when that is bled that some have reported. So, if I were you I would bleed both front and rear systems at the ABS modulator while you have the tank off, then change the fluid annually by bleeding only at the calipers. This only takes 20 mins, if you have a tea break....

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And now, for the alternate view...

Just bleed at the rear caliper. IF, however, you are not able to get a good feel on the rear brake lever after doing so (and after trying it a couple of times) you will have to bleed at the ABS under the tank. Removing the master cylinder or replacing the brake lines will sometimes (often times) introduce air into the line near the ABS module that you cannot easily get out.

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to bleed at the ABS module anyway, since few people seem to on the 1100s...(I know I seldom do).

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Bruce (Bedford)

Hi all

Thanks - as most things in (my) life easy jobs get complicated by too much advice & research!

Straight forward is good...

So I’m off to get some brake fluid in a bit and just do the rear brake lines to see how it goes, the tank will come off again no doubt and the front lines get done in due course.

I'll bleed at the abs unit as the thought of air being pushed thru it, whatever is inside, is I’m sure best avoided.

The main reason for the two part job is that my daughter needs/wants the conservatory for her birthday party next weekend!

 

Yes Andy, Bedford is a good place to be!

Happy New Year one & all

Bruce

5373.jpg.f5e07cf5b4f0638155026a750c880d56.jpg

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Hi Bedford. I'm loving that bike in the lounge!!!!! my wife would castrate me for that!

I see too that you have jacked the bike up on a pair of axle stands. I would advise tying your front brake lever fully on, and also tying the front wheel and rear subrame to the axle stands to triangulate the mounting points. Even though the bike is currently tied to that bar, it wouldn't take much for it to roll sideways. Sorry to poke my nose, but I would hate for you or anyone else to get hurt by a toppling RT.

 

Happy New Year.

 

Andy

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Bruce (Bedford)

Hi Andy

The length of angle iron has a couple of sockets welded to it and is bolted up to the sump so it can't roll and provides a better working height and secure platform. Getting the bike to the right height is a bit of a game using a trolly jack. The only problem is that it can rock end to end as it is at the ballance point right by the centre stand but it hasn't been an issue yet even getting the gearbox off & on.

You think my wife is ok - she even helped get the gearbox/shaft/wheel assy out & in!!!! Some 32 years ago I made the best snap decision of my life.

This is a good forum eh? The thing is - I should be getting the brake fluid...

Cheers

- Its not the lounge, even I'd not go that far & the daughter is more of a worry

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Hi all

Thanks - as most things in (my) life easy jobs get complicated by too much advice & research!

Straight forward is good...

So I’m off to get some brake fluid in a bit and just do the rear brake lines to see how it goes, the tank will come off again no doubt and the front lines get done in due course.

I'll bleed at the abs unit as the thought of air being pushed thru it, whatever is inside, is I’m sure best avoided.

The main reason for the two part job is that my daughter needs/wants the conservatory for her birthday party next weekend!

 

Yes Andy, Bedford is a good place to be!

Happy New Year one & all

Bruce

 

That's exactly how my bike is looking right now, and in the flat I live in :D

 

Dan.

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Hi Andy...Some 32 years ago I made the best snap decision of my life.

This is a good forum eh? The thing is - I should be getting the brake fluid...

Cheers

- Its not the lounge, even I'd not go that far & the daughter is more of a worry

 

Nice one. Take care. Andy

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