robert wagner Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 I have a 1996 R1100R, where can I buy a spark plug cap removal tool for that year bike? thanks Link to comment
John Ranalletta Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Find a length of old extension cord. Wrap it around the bend in the plug wire boot and pull. Works better than the cheap plastic thingy that came with the tool kit. Link to comment
robert wagner Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 thanks, will give it a try. Link to comment
Goomicoo Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 Find a length of old extension cord. Wrap it around the bend in the plug wire boot and pull. Works better than the cheap plastic thingy that came with the tool kit. My cheap plastic thingy takes offense to that. It has always worked for me. Link to comment
kmac Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 I always like to rotate spark plug boots a little bit to break loose any bonding that has happened from heat. I know it is hard to rotate an oil head plug boot because of its shape and its deep fit into the head, but you can twist it some. Link to comment
dan cata Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 I always like to rotate spark plug boots a little bit to break loose any bonding that has happened from heat. I know it is hard to rotate an oil head plug boot because of its shape and its deep fit into the head, but you can twist it some. And after that, a good thing is to get some air from a compressor in there, or just blow while closing eyes so dirt/sand comes off. Dan Link to comment
outpost22 Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 Have you checked inside the factory tool kit under the seat to see if the removal tool is in there? I found mine by accident this way. Just a thought. +1 on the compressed air, although using safety glasses is better than "closing your eyes" Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 I have always found the plastic spark plug cap removal tool to be rubbish. However, on the 1100 and single spark 1150's they do kind of work - but not as well as the piece of string method. On the 1150 twin spark, BMW really got their act together and COMPLETELY ruined the plug cap removal tool. TOTALLY useless and the string tool is therefore even better. +2 on the compressed air around the cooling fins to remove dirt and debris. Andy Link to comment
Hotdog Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 A zip tie loop works fine. I left it on the ignition wire under the spark plug cover on one side. Link to comment
robert wagner Posted January 1, 2011 Author Share Posted January 1, 2011 great tips and thanks....do you "gap" the dual prong plugs (BMW)? Link to comment
outpost22 Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 great tips and thanks....do you "gap" the dual prong plugs (BMW)? Nope. I throw them away and replace them with Autolite 3923's. Link to comment
Jerry Duke Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Buy a tube of dielectric grease and lightly coat the rubber boot each time you remove it. Link to comment
Clive Liddell Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Hi Jerry, If I may make a less messy suggestion: I just lightly "dust" the inside of the connector with talcum powder. It lasts for ages... Link to comment
RT Russ Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Buy a tube of dielectric grease and lightly coat the rubber boot each time you remove it. +1 Many automotive plug wire kits come with Dielectric grease just for this purpose. I remember on a '96 Dodge truck, I pulled the boot off the wire trying to get it off the plug! Grease it up, stick it....on Link to comment
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