Mark G Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Been looking all day, are there any engine repair/rebuild topics for an RT1150? The search function on this forum is a little weak. Looking for proprietary tools list, recommended replacement parts since the engine will be open...etc. I've decided it's winter, one of my cam chain guides has busted and it's going to get replaced for a lot less than $3,500 bucks....i think Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 I don't know of such a topic on this forum (I am ~ new around here) but you can search advrider.com for such. And if it's not too much to ask, take pics of everything you do and post them here It's going to be very interesting Dan. Link to comment
NonComp Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Maybe Dirtrider has some thoughts on this, if he is around. Link to comment
kmac Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 If i was going to go to the trouble of opening up my motor, and could afford it at all i would at least do all bearing, seals, and rings. Maybe pistons and bore as well. None of that i dont think is too expensive. Although that would depend on how many miles you engine has on it. If it is fairly low mile and it is just a broken cam chain guide/tensioner you may just wanna save the money and fix what is broken. My question for the gurus here would be, DOES the cases of the motor need to be split to fix a guide/tensioner, or do you just have to pull the heads and barrels? It seems like the cam chain goes into the block, obviously, but the guides and tensioners are inside the barrels, aren't they? Link to comment
Skywagon Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Mark...I don't know the answer to your question, but you might look up the various parts a site that has fiche and parts to understand the price of parts only. Like KMac suggested...If I were going to tear it down it would get new rings, bearings, of course gaskets, cylinders honed, valve work done, etc. Then you easily have a 100k engine. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?kind=M&series=R22&body=ohne&model=R+1150+RT+00+%280419%2C0499%29&zone=USA&prod=20040700&arch=0 I have done an old boxer R90 before and it was not complicated by engine standards. You might also go to boxerworks.com and check with those guys as well. Best of luck and keep us posted of your decision and progress. Link to comment
Mark G Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 Thanks guys. I will take pictures, got a 4gig card for my camera. My bike has 86,000 miles on it and ran fine until I changed my oil and out through the plug...what did I see...plastic parts, so far three! I am sure there are more so she won't be started, just drained and pulled apart. Link to comment
kmac Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 The concern is not that there are plastic bits in the oil, but what did the plastic bits DO before. Personally, I know many people here think these bikes are 100k+ motors, and often they are, but if i gotta open up my block at over 50k....i am probably gonna pop for all of the wear parts. You can get a complete short block from bmw for 2500 bucks. im sure you could rebuild for 1500-2k. Here is a link to a good reference source for parts. Not neccesarily the best price, but it is a factory microfishe. http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51765&catID=11&catname=11+Engine Link to comment
Ken H. Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 My question for the gurus here would be, DOES the cases of the motor need to be split to fix a guide/tensioner, or do you just have to pull the heads and barrels? It seems like the cam chain goes into the block, obviously, but the guides and tensioners are inside the barrels, aren't they? To replace the long plastic cam chain guides the case must be split. The tensioners are external and can be replaced from the outside. Link to comment
kmac Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Thats what I get for thinking. And BTW I verified Ken H. post with my manual....and he is correct...chain guides are a PITA. Link to comment
Mark G Posted January 1, 2011 Author Share Posted January 1, 2011 Thanks for the micro fiche links...I think these bikes can last for over 100,000 miles, it's just a plastic chain guard that failed. I am going to start clearing out space for the body tomorrow. I will post pics when I begin the nightmare...I say nightmare because I have a 14 month old toddler at home and a wife who stays busy. I cannot find any guidance as to when these parts should be replaced. Link to comment
kmac Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 Oh that is cool that you have a "HELPER" working with you. Keep the intiquite parts up high. My dad started having me help in the garage at a very early age and it has made me a real gear head and a decent wrench over the years. My mom has a picture of me at about 9 months old sitting in a puddle of oil on the floor with a cadillac head gasket wrapped around my neck while making vroom vroom noises and my diaper swelling up as it soaked up the oil. I started young. Been in the garage every since. Started pulling lawn motors apart, then at some point later actually fixing them, then moved into my first motorcycle repairs at 6 yrs old, and by 11 i was swapping out long blocks in my dads rambler americans for him. Been a life long passion for me, love/hate at times, but a passion none the less. Get him out there let him scratch something, he will love it. Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 I cannot find any guidance as to when these parts should be replaced. Guidance on what parts? Andy Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 If you are talking about the chain guide, they don't normally need to be replaced. If the chain tensioner fails, then the chain will have slack and it will eat the chain guide. Normally, you would hear a rattling sound that would warn you that the chain tensioner is failing. The tensioner is an easy replacement item. The chain guide is not. Rule of thumb is that if you hear the chain rattling, don't ignore it. Link to comment
flars Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 You should pop over to the advrider.com forum - I am pretty sure that is where I saw a thread on how to replace the guide without splitting the cases. It involved cutting a notch in the guide, I believe. Search, ask questions, etc until someone cries uncle and points you in the right direction over there. I wouldn't replace anything in there that wasn't broke - these engines really are very long lived, and 86K isn't very old. Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 You should pop over to the advrider.com forum - I am pretty sure that is where I saw a thread on how to replace the guide without splitting the cases. It involved cutting a notch in the guide, I believe. Search, ask questions, etc until someone cries uncle and points you in the right direction over there. I wouldn't replace anything in there that wasn't broke - these engines really are very long lived, and 86K isn't very old. I too have heard that argument on the BM Bikes forum. I accept you could get a new one on by cutting a notch in hte elongated portion, BUT how do you get the old one off without leaving debris in the engine housing? Andy Link to comment
Mark G Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 The old guide pieces will just come out with the next oil change! I have my local race bike mechanic on call to help when I screw this up if I actually do it. Prob going to do guides/tensioner, rings, main bearing, clutch, tires, brakes...$$$$....or buy a new bike. Link to comment
G-Rex Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Rebuilding yourself will be cheaper than buying a new bike, and you'll learn something in the process! While I haven't rebuilt a BMW engine before, the general experience will be pertinent. I've rebuilt many motorcycle engines, ranging from Kawasakis and Suzukis to Ducatis. I don't have an *extravagant* tool collection, but I do have more than your average handyman set, and the ONLY thing I don't have or bother with is the special tools for the flywheel and some of the sprockets that a regular puller won't work on. For these, a quick trip to the dealer with the motor in the trunk, along with paying them an hour of labor or a box of donuts, and that problem is solved. Good luck with whatever route you go! Link to comment
Mark G Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 advrider.com Good stuff on this site, thanks for pointing it out to me. One thread ref cam chain guides/tensioners http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=574029&highlight=tensioner a post ref the splitting of the case and locating the cam chain guides/tensioners http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9490767&postcount=5 Link to comment
Mark G Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 advrider.com Good stuff on this site, thanks for pointing it out to me. One thread ref cam chain guides/tensioners http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=574029&highlight=tensioner a post ref the splitting of the case and locating the cam chain guides/tensioners http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9490767&postcount=5 Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.