Dash Lights?

[kmac]

I have a number of posts about LED lights in the dash and I was wondering something. Are the 3 switches on the left side of my 1996 R1100RT supposed to be lit up or are they dark.

 

My Speedo, Tack and Temp/Fuel gauge are all lit up just fine. No need for any different bulbs. But the 3 switches on the left, The grip heater switch, ABS reset, and the Hazard lites are not lit at all. Is that normal or is something disconnected?

[kmac]

22 views and no one knows if my 3 switches are supposed to be back lit?

 

I could even find them in thick gloves and in the pitch black night last night.

[Boffin]

The switches are not backlit. My 1150 only has one such switch and it is a pain to find on a dark night.

 

Andy

[Dave Parry]

I have a '99 1100RT and the 3 switches on that are not back-lit,

Dave.

[Stan Walker]

My 1150 only has one such switch and it is a pain to find on a dark night.

 

The fog light switch on the 1150 should be illuminated. Perhaps, like mine, it has burned out.

 

Stan

[Eckhard Grohe]

I installed a "Post Light" which illuminates the switches. It sits just above the switches. The Whelen post lights can be seen here. Cut back the shank before installing. Use a 12-14 volt bulb.

 

Another old time member installed fiber optic strands between the switches to outline their location.

[kmac]

Perfect thanks guys, now i just need to figure out a way to light them.

 

Im thinking of a small light that i can just plug into my electrical outlet that is right above the switches...

 

Thanks guys.

[kmac]

That was the exact problem. It was cold, I was wearing my thicker insulated gloves, and I was fumbling around trying to find which one was the grip heater. I was out in Ocotillo Wells last night and it was PITCH black and no street lights. It was quite peaceful but it took a bit of fumbling around to figure which switch was the grip heater.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

I have bought the parts but haven't done anything with them. LED lights from Wally world that use a cigarette light plug for power. You have to retain the circuit board in the plug for LED conditioning though. Take it apart and wire into a positive line behid the dash.

[kmac]

I am thinking about just mounting one of these

 

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/LP31CB.html

 

It is a simple +/- 2 wire unit that is surface mount and water tight. It would mount above the switches on the dash where it starts to return back towards you, where the dash covers the windshield mechanism. The light will shine downward onto the switches and I dont think out towards me since part of the light is shielded.

What do you guys think?

[cruisin]

Have you thought about something like this, mounted just above the switches and at an angle that illuminates them? I found that on a very quick google search for "surface mount LED lights." I'm betting there are more options to be had. I am planning on doing mine in this fashion but want to take a little time to find just the right unit.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Same mount location I'm considering. The led is only about .5 x .5 x .375 tall. Very low profile, small hole.

[tallman]

Thinkin'?

No disrespect but illuminating a switch so you can look at it to find it, in the dark, whike riding, means taking eyes off the road to find a switch that was designed to be "found" by feel.

YMMV.

[cruisin]

these and these are also available.

[cruisin]

Thinkin'?

No disrespect but illuminating a switch so you can look at it to find it, in the dark, whike riding, means taking eyes off the road to find a switch that was designed to be "found" by feel.

YMMV.

 

It's no different from having heater, radio, wiper controls illuminated in a car; you only need a fraction of a second to see it when it is lit up but if you have to fumble around in the dark with heavy gloves on. That is far more distracting than a quick glance and touch of the right button on the first try. Those three control switches on the left side of an RT dash are very difficult 'feel' in the dark when wearing heavy gloves because they are so close together and all 'feel' the same.

 

Or maybe cars (and bike) should have dark dashboards too so drivers can concentrate 100% on the road visually but have to search for heater/defroster controls when it is cold, or maybe just take a wild guess about speed since they shouldn't be looking at a speedo in the dark anyway.

 

Having those switches illuminated will add to safety, not take away from it as it's not likely anyone (except candidates for the Darwin awards) will be sitting there staring at the contorls for more than a fraction of the second it takes to locate the proper switch and hit with a finger.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Thinkin'?

No disrespect but illuminating a switch so you can look at it to find it, in the dark, whike riding, means taking eyes off the road to find a switch that was designed to be "found" by feel.

YMMV.

 

That's one perspective. Here's the trade:

1. Don't illuminate the switch and try to learn it's location by muscle memory. Long reach and a atypical riding position (leaning forward with hand off grip) tend to foil that a bit. Probably end up doing the sentence of #2.

2. Don't illuminate and fumble for a couple seconds trying to locate it. Oh, is it the left or center one? It then takes a great deal of discipline to not look at it.

3. Illuminate, glance down for a half second...maybe less, flick.

 

The only times I can't see the markings on mine is on my dark side road out of my tract or an empty freeway. Otherwise, there seems to be enough ambient light most places to see them.

[tallman]

Like I said, YMMV.

But there are only a couple of switches, they don't move to new location.

 

If it is such a big problem (although y'all blame it on bulky gloves not lack of illumination) then shed some light or find some paint that glows in the dark or a sticker that does.

I don't think diverting attention, in the cold and dark, while driving a car or riding a bike are comparable. Two wheels vs 4 wheels etc. Margin of error much greater in a car.

Also, if the "reach" to the dash is too great perhaps it can wait until you have a safer place to stop/slow down.

These aren't like the cockpit of a 7X7, IMO.

Best wishes.

 

[kmac]

In most places there is enough ambient light here as well. But not when you hit any back roads here. There is alot of unlit roads here in So. Cal.

 

As far as taking your eyes off the road, that is ridiculous in my opinion. EVERYONE take their eyes off the road at times. You look left and right searching for other dangers, you notice some nice scenery, wildlife, a hot chick....

 

Have a small light so you can see them in a fraction of a second and flip the switch then get you hand back on the bar that much quicker is a better option than fumbling around

 

JMHO

[cruisin]

If you haven't already found a solution, I ran across some pretty compact LED micro lights in Wally World of all places that might be just the ticket here. I bought a unit that plugs into a stnadard cigarette lighter(that'a all they had) for $8.88 in Denton last week. Just got a chance to do a test mount using black electrical tape. For my needs I'm thinking aiming one in from the side and slightly above and the other from straight above. Here is what it will look like once I've figured out where to mount a plug that will take the plug-in provided. I don't want to use the Acc. plug already there as that is where I plug in my 'lectric gloves.

[cruisin]

and since the site only allows one attachment per post, here is a pic from JC Whitney that has similar lights to the Wally World unit I bought.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

That's exactly what I picked up too. Unfortunately, I'm lazy recently and after taking the plug apart, I didn't do anything else.

 

You don't need another power socket though. Just identify which part of the plug is + and which is -. I don't remember right now. Disassemble the plug and desolder the wires from the plug contacts. You have to keep the circuit board! Then, jump the + onto any powered hot wire behind the dash. The - can go to any good chassis ground.

 

You could get really fancy and bring a switch into play but, then you'd have to have a light to find the switch!!!!!!!

Actually, something tiny on the bars with a latching capability would be cool.

 

I intend to make two very small holes in the dash and pass the cut wires thru and bond the LEDs over the holes. Then, reassemble the wires on the backside with some small connectors for dash removal.

[cruisin]

Yeah, I thought about dismantling mine too. (and still may do so). But for now I am contemplating just finding a location for a standard cig. plug recepticle and wiring it into a switched 12V circuit so that the end of the unit's plug will show; it already has a lighted LED switch in the top of it. Only thing is, I haven't paid close enough attention to it to know if it is always lit when powered up or just when you find it and turn it on.

 

hmmmmmmmm,

[OlGeezer]

kmac - I read this thread over and over and couldn't figure out what the problem was, so while at a commercial break during the Orange Bowl game, I went out to the garage, turned on the bike and then turned off the garage lights. After all, I've done a LOT of night riding (including Ocotillo Wells and S2) and never had any problem finding my controls. As it turns out, there is significant difference between the R1100 cockpit and the R1150 cockpit. My suggestion to you is use whatever light fixture you want to use, but I recommend a red light of some kind. Of course, I think a more elegant solution would be to install a single red led drilled through each individual switch you want lit. Make it special; unique; yours.

 

 

[kmac]

Thanx Geez, that is cool advice.

 

I am not sure about the difference between the r1100 and the r11500 but my r1100RT is pitch black around the dash at night if there are no street lights and no cars behind me. Finding the right switch for the grip heater in thick gloves with cold fingers in the pitch black was hard so i thought a little light would be nice.

 

I like the colored light idea, that is kinda trick and personal.

[AndyS]

The 1150 has only one dash mounted switch and that is for the auxilliary lights. The switch is back lit.

 

On the handlebars the push button switch for the hazard lights is back lit.

 

The thumb switch for the heated grips is not lit (nor is the horn, indicator, dip switch etc).

 

So, on the 1100, I am not sure if you can fit a back lit rocker switch from another model to solve your problems.

 

Andy

[OlGeezer]

The 1150 has only one dash mounted switch and that is for the auxilliary lights. The switch is back lit.

 

 

So, on the 1100, I am not sure if you can fit a back lit rocker switch from another model to solve your problems.

 

Andy

 

I think this would be the best solution and quite possibly the simplest.

[kmac]

Now that is a cool idea. Im gonna have to look into that. A nice low level light hilighting the switch would be perfect, so you could just see it, flip it, done.

 

Thanks for the ideas, i will post up when i figure out what i do.

[tallman]

I'd still be tempted to use something like this, no wiring or cutting.

Glow in the Dark paint

up to 24 hours/10year span

use small brush and paint the switch icon then after it dries cover w/clear coat

[AndyS]

I'd still be tempted to use something like this, no wiring or cutting.

Glow in the Dark paint

 

Wow, nice price too! does it give you radiation sickness? ;-)

 

Andy

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Originally Posted By: tallman

I'd still be tempted to use something like this, no wiring or cutting.

Glow in the Dark paint

 

 

Wow, nice price too! does it give you radiation sickness? ;-)

 

Andy

 

Son of a Bxxxx! You mean they make paint for that? What am I going to do with all this excess Strontium, Tritium, Radium and Prometheum?

[kmac]

I think I am gonna paint my whole bike with that stuff....that might help night time visability...

 

Ouch 500 bucks a gallon maybe im not gonna paint my bike....maybe just some stripes on the bike..

[cruisin]

I've been tinkering with those micro LEDs that I posted pictures of earlier. Here is what I think I'm gonna do with them. Right now they are just taped in place (first picture) to take the pics. I just have to decide whether to take the plug apart and wire them in permanently or install an automotives-sized plug to plug them into.

[kmac]

Evening Crusin,

That is all i am thinking of. Just a little ambient type of lighting so i get see them easier.

 

Post up once you go for a ride and let me know if they are distracting at all. That is my only concern is if they will be awkward or distracting.

 

Thanks for the update.

 

[Bruce (Bedford)]

Cool! I'll keep watching & will follow at a discrete distance.

[cruisin]

Evening Crusin,

That is all i am thinking of. Just a little ambient type of lighting so i get see them easier.

 

Post up once you go for a ride and let me know if they are distracting at all. That is my only concern is if they will be awkward or distracting.

 

Thanks for the update.

 

Done! I got up early and took the RT for a little spin in the dark this morning. The blue cast was perfect. :thumbsup: I was able to easily see the switches and operate them in a fraction of a second compared to fumbling around for several seconds in the dark. They are not at all distracting if you are looking down the road as you should be when not needing to locate and flip a switch. For that matter, even looking directly at them, they are not distracting. The spots I have them taped will likely become the permanent locations.

[cruisin]

OKIE DOKIE!! I took the RT out for another spin late in the afternoon so that I could ride a while after sunset yesterday and have decided that the LEDs are most effective where I have placed the red dots in the picture. The turqouise lines indicate approximate angle of all the spots I tested. In all the other locations they were either at the wrong angle or shadows were cast (Like by the acc. plug cover when open) that partially shielded the beam from the switches on the left side of the dash. Placing them where the red dots are gives full lighting of the switches at all times and everything else that gets lit just provides some symetry. They also seem to be the least distracting in this location. The only negative I can see with this location is that about 2" of the wire will have to run across the dash to reach a point where it can be duck inside. (yellow lines) We are about to experience a bout of very cold temps so I will have plenty of non-riding days to complete the project.

[ESokoloff]

The only negative I can see with this location is that about 2" of the wire will have to run across the dash to reach a point where it can be duck inside. (yellow lines)

 

Temporarily tape the wires in a spot or two & apply black silicone sealant between the section(s) of tape.

After the silicone dries remove the tape & use more silicone if need be.

[cruisin]

OK, I had a bit of time to tinker with the dash lights this weekend. I opted for wiring them in away so as to completely hide the wiring. That meant removing the circuit board from the casing; but then how to protect it from the elements. I thought about that for a while and then realized I could simply cut the power and ground wires from the internal hardware and cut a slot for them to exit the original casing minus all the other internal works. I did just that and then proceeded to tie those wires into a couple of wires that I knew to be on a "switched" circuit coming from my running lights switch. I sealed the seams of the entire unit using liquid tape and black silicone. I also cut the lengthy wires from the plug to the LEDs so there would not be so much excess wire to deal with. That move also allowed me to drill very small holes in the dash to pass the wires through. I could then stick the LEDs down to the dash just below where the wire came out.

 

I then used two-sided metal roofing tape to secure the wires to the underside of the dash until a few spots of liquid tape could dry to make a more permanent hold. I also used that liquid tape to make my connections due to the very small and fragile wires leading to the LEDs and from the circuit board to the switched wiring. In one of the shots below the 'plug' is pointed out by two green lines while the tied connection (with liq. tape) from the circuit board is denoted by a blue line and circle. Finally I sealed the edges of the LEDs on the dash using black silicone. Now, the lights come on with the ignition and the results are just exactly what I was looking for.

[dan cata]

Looks interesting. What other options would I have if I want to light up my dash regarding potisionling the LED's execpt duct tape? That's the part I don't like and it interferes with pressure washing the bike.

 

Dan.

[cruisin]

Looks interesting. What other options would I have if I want to light up my dash regarding potisionling the LED's execpt duct tape? That's the part I don't like and it interferes with pressure washing the bike.

 

Dan.

 

LOL: actually the duct tape you saw in a few pictures goes away on final install. The LEDs come with a pretty high grade two-sided tape on the bottom side. Once they are positioned where you want them, use black silicone to seal around the edges (and the holes in the dash). I'd still be careful giving them a direct shot with a power washer though. The other grey strips seen on the underside of my dash are the two-sided metal roofing tape that I used only to hold the wiring in place while the liquid tape dried. None of the stuff under the dash is likely to get much moisture either from the elements or from washing; especially since I never power wash my bikes. I always use only a spray bottle and micro-fiber cloths.

[cruisin]

Here's a close-up of the left one with first round of black silicone. As soon as it warms a bit more today, I plan to run another small bead around each one just to be sure they are thoroughly sealed.

[yorky]

How about Tritium Vials? Small, bright, different colours and power source not needed, just slightly radioactive. Popular with fishermen I believe.

[cruisin]

OR; I could leave it just like I have it. Had a chance to view said modification early this morning with only stars for ambient light. The small blue LEDs provided just the perfect amount of light to find the heated grip switch in about half a second with a quick glance and flick of the switch. They were absolutely non-distracting otherwise; just a nice soft blue glow to entire dash now.

[dan cata]

Just installed a DVM on the dash. Looks like this:

 

 

I really like it during night riding because it has blue backlight.

I have connected it to the front parking light bulb. It's not the tension like at the battery terminals but it's there for comparison. It stays at 13.4V no matter how much I rev the bike. I guess if it was connected at the battery, it would show 13.8 or something but I did not want to take off the gas tank just to run a wire under it...

 

Dan.

[cruisin]

hey Dan,

 

looking at your picture, I'm not entirely sure what it is you are calling a DVM. You wouldn't happen to have a way to hi-light that or maybe have a shot of it in operation in a darker environment would you?

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

The wide slender thing above the dash assembly is a DVM. Not a multi-meter.

[dan cata]

I like it. It's blue and it looks nice in the dark.