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RE: RT '97 ENGINE STALLS WILL IDLING


Syro

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Apart from the problems with the battery for which i believe i finally am getting somewhere (anyone interested PM) , i experience (sometimes) a sudden stall while the bike is standing still , at idle. Could it be anything related with the fuel?cause i had to fill her up from an unknown gas station....(i must point out that i just got the bike from a full service which included changing gas filter/plugs and adjustment of TPS and valves..)

 

Thank you in advance.

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When the maintenance was done, were the BBS's cleaned?

 

Did this just start after the maintenance? If so, you might want to re-check everything that was done.

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Sorry, Big Brass Screws; they are located on the throttle bodies. They are used to set the idle speed. They are flat head, and I think the only brass part in the area.

 

If they get clogged with carbon, it can reduce idle fuel flow and cause problems.

 

[edit] Look up the cleaning procedure; you don't want to mess up your idle sync.

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While you have the BBS's out and cleaning them, also use some Q-tips soaked with carb cleaner to wipe out the passage area where the BBS screws in..you'll be amazed at how many tip's you'll use till they come out relatively clean. (Think I used 8-10 per side).

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Tx Dan , i just spoke with my mechanic and he told me that during the recent service he thoroughly cleaned every inch of the BBSs.He understood what i explained is going on with the stalling and he told me that perhaps what must be done is to add a bit of oxygen intake...

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Well , She doesn't stop...simply during idle it stalls for seconds , dropping from 1050rpm to 500rpms and then comes back at 1050rpm.And this happens not frequently and while the engine is hot.

 

"Servicing" included almost everything, valve adjustment/spark replacement/air filter replacement/gas filter replacement/TPS adjustment/brake fluid replacement/oil change/tranny oil change.

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I've heard someone else describe what you're saying as the motronic trying to lean out the fuel mix based upon feedback from the O2 sensor. It goes to far, and causes a stall. The person thought this was normal.

 

I'm not entirely sure how accurate that is, but I can tell you mine does a similar thing; only to around 900 rpm, not all the way down to 500. It's intermittent, and when hot, just like yours.

 

When I did have a problem with it stalling a bit at idle below 500 rpm, it ended up being a loose spark plug cable. Easy to diagnose and fix; worth a shot. Simply pop the "4 valve" covers off, pull out the spark plug wires with the tool in your toolkit, and plug them back in. I've found it's easiest to replace the covers back to front, instead of front to back (front being towards the front wheel). Mine would happen all the time, though; not just when hot.

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In the "Old Country", we called that hammer an "Irish Toolkit" :rofl:

 

I would beg to differ .........

 

Its actually a " manchester screwdriver " :grin: ( northwest UK )

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Well goodmorning to you.This morning it went off a couple of times after stalling while idling....I checked the plugs and the seem to be OK .

So WTF????I just spend over 300€ on this service (have in mind that there is a economic crisis in Greece and i am a father of two) and still the RT is working like crap....

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Well goodmorning to you.This morning it went off a couple of times after stalling while idling....I checked the plugs and the seem to be OK .

So WTF????I just spend over 300 on this service (have in mind that there is a economic crisis in Greece and i am a father of two) and still the RT is working like crap....

If your motorcycle dealer has billed you for the repair and it is not satisfactory, take it back for free rectification - or as for a refund. But, if the work you asked him to do didn't cover this problem ,then it is not his fault.

 

Andy

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The dealer infact has billed me for the repair and apart from the above mentioned problems i face , the gas consumption has hit the roof.

 

That part of the puzzle says oxygen sensor. A lazy O2 sensor will give the stalling symptoms and increase fuel consumption. Try disconnecting the sensor - the connector is located under the nose of the tank on the RH side. If this stops the stalling problem you have your culprit. The bike will run OK with the 02 sensor disconnected but use more fuel. NGK make a plug-and-play alternative sensor - OZA522-BM1.

 

Andy

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Try disconnecting the sensor - the connector is located under the nose of the tank on the RH side.

 

Andy

Easier than that, pull the cat code plug. That disconnects the O2 sensor on an 11000.

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Try disconnecting the sensor - the connector is located under the nose of the tank on the RH side.

 

Andy

Easier than that, pull the cat code plug. That disconnects the O2 sensor on an 11000.

 

So that means that if the bike has a O2 sensor it must have a CCP? Because otherwise, without the CCP the sensor would be in the exhaust just to fill in a gap, right?

 

 

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Easier than that, pull the cat code plug. That disconnects the O2 sensor on an 1100.

 

Are you sure? Are you saying that it does this internally within the ECU?

 

Andy

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Andy,i just returned the bike to the dealer cause my afternoon ride home was....dreadful...The bike stopped working while overpassing cars in the freeway at 90Km/h and i had to rev it up while idling to avoid it stopping.

The mechanic told me when i finally got there,that after he cleaned the fuel-injectors he didn't modify the settings in the O2.

So since one of them was very dirty the settings on the fuel analyzer were wrong.

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Cause you know Andy , after almost 22 years of riding such difficult mechanic issues , lead (sometimes) to selling the bike....(and replacing it of cource!!!)

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Easier than that, pull the cat code plug. That disconnects the O2 sensor on an 1100.

 

Are you sure? Are you saying that it does this internally within the ECU?

 

Andy

 

That has always been my understanding. Pulling the CCP will take the 02 sensor out of the loop in the 1100 series. It doesn't work in the 1150 series. That being said, all I know is what I read on the internet.

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He is now testing the fuel pump...he mentioned that it is not working 100% as it should...I hope we will not have to replace cause it costs quite a bit..

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Well,after almost 3 days at the shop we finally managed to find the guilty part for the stalling....the right spark plug wire which although it worked fine when cold after the engine became warm (3-4 bars) it didn't worked as it should causing misfing on the right cylinder....And the question that now raises is should i go for the original BMW ones or choose an aftermarket ? (and which aftermarket should i trust?)

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