Syro Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Apart from the problems with the battery for which i believe i finally am getting somewhere (anyone interested PM) , i experience (sometimes) a sudden stall while the bike is standing still , at idle. Could it be anything related with the fuel?cause i had to fill her up from an unknown gas station....(i must point out that i just got the bike from a full service which included changing gas filter/plugs and adjustment of TPS and valves..) Thank you in advance. Link to comment
JoeR Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Are the spark plug wires seated all the way onto the plug? What RPM is it idling at? Any backfires or spitting? Link to comment
Syro Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 The RPMs are 1000-1050 , no backfires so far. Link to comment
JoeR Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 When the maintenance was done, were the BBS's cleaned? Did this just start after the maintenance? If so, you might want to re-check everything that was done. Link to comment
Syro Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 emmmm Joe , BBS's , pls help me out on this one...(i am Greek u know and we don't get along well neither with mechanical stuff nor economics!!!) Link to comment
JoeR Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Sorry, Big Brass Screws; they are located on the throttle bodies. They are used to set the idle speed. They are flat head, and I think the only brass part in the area. If they get clogged with carbon, it can reduce idle fuel flow and cause problems. [edit] Look up the cleaning procedure; you don't want to mess up your idle sync. Link to comment
Syro Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 Hmmmm do you have any pics of these BBS location? i mean can I check them out without removing any fairings etc.? Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 You will have to remove the fairing for this. Link to comment
SKYGZR Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 While you have the BBS's out and cleaning them, also use some Q-tips soaked with carb cleaner to wipe out the passage area where the BBS screws in..you'll be amazed at how many tip's you'll use till they come out relatively clean. (Think I used 8-10 per side). Link to comment
Syro Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 Has anyone any pics of these BBSs?or how to get to them? Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 The bronze screw is the BBS. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=630335 Link to comment
Syro Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 Tx Dan , i just spoke with my mechanic and he told me that during the recent service he thoroughly cleaned every inch of the BBSs.He understood what i explained is going on with the stalling and he told me that perhaps what must be done is to add a bit of oxygen intake... Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Ok, the bike has been serviced and now sometimes it stalls during idle. So it stops, right? What was done during the "servicing"? Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 I'm lovin that hammer action on the TB! Andy Link to comment
Syro Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 Well , She doesn't stop...simply during idle it stalls for seconds , dropping from 1050rpm to 500rpms and then comes back at 1050rpm.And this happens not frequently and while the engine is hot. "Servicing" included almost everything, valve adjustment/spark replacement/air filter replacement/gas filter replacement/TPS adjustment/brake fluid replacement/oil change/tranny oil change. Link to comment
JoeR Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 I've heard someone else describe what you're saying as the motronic trying to lean out the fuel mix based upon feedback from the O2 sensor. It goes to far, and causes a stall. The person thought this was normal. I'm not entirely sure how accurate that is, but I can tell you mine does a similar thing; only to around 900 rpm, not all the way down to 500. It's intermittent, and when hot, just like yours. When I did have a problem with it stalling a bit at idle below 500 rpm, it ended up being a loose spark plug cable. Easy to diagnose and fix; worth a shot. Simply pop the "4 valve" covers off, pull out the spark plug wires with the tool in your toolkit, and plug them back in. I've found it's easiest to replace the covers back to front, instead of front to back (front being towards the front wheel). Mine would happen all the time, though; not just when hot. Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 I'm lovin that hammer action on the TB! Andy Read it as gentle tap Link to comment
philbytx Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 In the "Old Country", we called that hammer an "Irish Toolkit" Link to comment
oldyam Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 In the "Old Country", we called that hammer an "Irish Toolkit" I would beg to differ ......... Its actually a " manchester screwdriver " ( northwest UK ) Link to comment
Syro Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 Well goodmorning to you.This morning it went off a couple of times after stalling while idling....I checked the plugs and the seem to be OK . So WTF????I just spend over 300€ on this service (have in mind that there is a economic crisis in Greece and i am a father of two) and still the RT is working like crap.... Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Well goodmorning to you.This morning it went off a couple of times after stalling while idling....I checked the plugs and the seem to be OK . So WTF????I just spend over 300 on this service (have in mind that there is a economic crisis in Greece and i am a father of two) and still the RT is working like crap.... If your motorcycle dealer has billed you for the repair and it is not satisfactory, take it back for free rectification - or as for a refund. But, if the work you asked him to do didn't cover this problem ,then it is not his fault. Andy Link to comment
Syro Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 The dealer infact has billed me for the repair and apart from the above mentioned problems i face , the gas consumption has hit the roof. Link to comment
Boffin Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 The dealer infact has billed me for the repair and apart from the above mentioned problems i face , the gas consumption has hit the roof. That part of the puzzle says oxygen sensor. A lazy O2 sensor will give the stalling symptoms and increase fuel consumption. Try disconnecting the sensor - the connector is located under the nose of the tank on the RH side. If this stops the stalling problem you have your culprit. The bike will run OK with the 02 sensor disconnected but use more fuel. NGK make a plug-and-play alternative sensor - OZA522-BM1. Andy Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Try disconnecting the sensor - the connector is located under the nose of the tank on the RH side. Andy Easier than that, pull the cat code plug. That disconnects the O2 sensor on an 11000. Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Try disconnecting the sensor - the connector is located under the nose of the tank on the RH side. Andy Easier than that, pull the cat code plug. That disconnects the O2 sensor on an 11000. So that means that if the bike has a O2 sensor it must have a CCP? Because otherwise, without the CCP the sensor would be in the exhaust just to fill in a gap, right? Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Easier than that, pull the cat code plug. That disconnects the O2 sensor on an 1100. Are you sure? Are you saying that it does this internally within the ECU? Andy Link to comment
Syro Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 Andy,i just returned the bike to the dealer cause my afternoon ride home was....dreadful...The bike stopped working while overpassing cars in the freeway at 90Km/h and i had to rev it up while idling to avoid it stopping. The mechanic told me when i finally got there,that after he cleaned the fuel-injectors he didn't modify the settings in the O2. So since one of them was very dirty the settings on the fuel analyzer were wrong. Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I do hope the mechanic is able to sort it properly for you - also hopefully Free of charge after the last session. Andy Link to comment
Syro Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 Well i clarified that "charging extra issue" with him.Zero Euros for him. Link to comment
Syro Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 Cause you know Andy , after almost 22 years of riding such difficult mechanic issues , lead (sometimes) to selling the bike....(and replacing it of cource!!!) Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 ..Zero Euros for him. Attaboy!! Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Easier than that, pull the cat code plug. That disconnects the O2 sensor on an 1100. Are you sure? Are you saying that it does this internally within the ECU? Andy That has always been my understanding. Pulling the CCP will take the 02 sensor out of the loop in the 1100 series. It doesn't work in the 1150 series. That being said, all I know is what I read on the internet. Link to comment
Syro Posted December 24, 2010 Author Share Posted December 24, 2010 He is now testing the fuel pump...he mentioned that it is not working 100% as it should...I hope we will not have to replace cause it costs quite a bit.. Link to comment
JoeR Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 He is now testing the fuel pump...he mentioned that it is not working 100% as it should...I hope we will not have to replace cause it costs quite a bit.. It's a shame you're not a little closer; I just put one of these in a friend's 1150 who had a bad pump: http://beemerboneyard.com/16141341231rk.html Cheap enough, and ran strong afterwards. Link to comment
Syro Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 Well,after almost 3 days at the shop we finally managed to find the guilty part for the stalling....the right spark plug wire which although it worked fine when cold after the engine became warm (3-4 bars) it didn't worked as it should causing misfing on the right cylinder....And the question that now raises is should i go for the original BMW ones or choose an aftermarket ? (and which aftermarket should i trust?) Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Go for these http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product_p/bmw-ws-fslash-r641.htm Dan. Link to comment
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