02 RT1150P Oil fill cap housing

[Mark G]

I have the manual but cannot figure out how to remove the oil fill cap housing from the cylinder head. DO I need to remove the cylinder head? and after draining the oil again??

 

Reason: Had a BMW dealer change this part out last year (was loose, had oil blowing from it) while working on my ABS. I changed oil lately and forgot to replace crush washer...notice a small leak at the fill plug....Pulled the plug, drained clean oil into a clean white container...out came broken plastic pieces and the oil fill cap housing is the only plastic I can think of.

 

[NonComp]

Maybe the plastic pieces are residual, left from the dealer removing the old housing??? Sorry, don't know the answer to your question, but maybe you don't need to take it apart. Maybe you need to call the dealer and ask how they got the old housing out.

[Jerry Duke]

I can't imagine it making it from the valve train into the engine sump.

If it's a stock cap, you can gently pry the o-ring off and replace it with a new one. Change the one on the valve cover too.

If it's an aftermarket cap you might have to remove the valve cover to loosen any set screws.

[Boffin]

For the stock part, you just put in a finger and pull the housing out. If it is too stiff, lever it out from the top.

Also, you do not have to drain the oil to remove the valve cover - there will be a little seepage, but no more than if you do drain the oil. The oil level in the sump is way below the cylinders.

 

Andy

[Mark G]

Thanks guys. I will try to pop it out with my finger once the garage warms up.

 

I was pretty stunned to find 2 plastic pieces when I first drained the oil. decided to do it again just to see if anymore came out...and thats when a thrid piece came out.

 

WOuld call the shop but the mechanic told me my clutch fluid was getting into my final drive and he could tell this because the clutch resevior smelled like gear fluid. Wanted to rip my bike apart...I have a race shop nearby and they will work on my bike.

[philbytx]

Err! This might NOT be good

I am hoping that the black plastic pieces were the colour, shape and size of the plastic insert in the head cover?

 

[kmac]

Err...are you thinking potentially timing chain guides or tensioners?

 

I hate feeling like a Debbie Downer....but i dont see how the filler cap piece in the valve cover could make its way down into the sump either...what is plastic in the motor?

[Mark G]

Phil, I am not excited either!!

 

Got the insert which was in the head cover out which is intact. It is the same type of plastic I found in my oil...color and texture wise.

 

I only recovered three broken pieces of this plastic from the sump..though cannot match them up to each other which makes me think there are more inside!

 

On my 4 wheeler there is a screen type filter between my oil resivior and the pump...I assume this does not exhist on my bike? For the oil cooling system at least? I know the valves are exposed.

 

There probably isn't an easy way to remove the lower end of my engine, or the sump area.

 

 

 

[Mark G]

If the crankshaft tensioner and guide broke, could it make it's way to the sump? It looks like plastic, it's black, might be the gremlin. What would cause this to break?

[philbytx]

Yes! I was concerned that they were pieces of one of the Cam Chain Tensioners or a slide rail.

 

You CAN get a glimpse of them when you remove the head covers and shine a flashlight down there.

 

 

[dan cata]

Ok, so I got 2 o-rings for the filler plug. The ones on the bike were not leaking but I changed the one on the plug just in case.

 

How do I get the part where the plug screws in out? Just pull it out?

[AndyS]

Ok, so I got 2 o-rings for the filler plug. The ones on the bike were not leaking but I changed the one on the plug just in case.

 

How do I get the part where the plug screws in out? Just pull it out?

 

Would this be better as a new post so we don't loose sight of the problem.

 

Andy

[dan cata]

The thread says "02 RT1150P Oil fill cap housing" and that's what I am trying to find out - how to get it off

[Jerry Duke]

If it's stock, you can almost pull it out with your fingers, worst case use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently work it out.

If it's an aftermarket, it might be held in place with set screws. That's when you'll have to remove the valve cover and look at the oil filler part for the set screws.

[philbytx]

You can actually lever it out "GENTLY" with a slim flat blade screwdriver (using something to make sure you don't gouge the aluminum!!) or, be extra carefule and simply remove the head cover and push it out.

 

[NonComp]

You can actually lever it out "GENTLY" with a slim flat blade screwdriver (using something to make sure you don't gouge the aluminum!!) or, be extra carefule and simply remove the head cover and push it out.

Which brings us back the OP's problem. I wonder if the pieces are left from a clumsy extraction by the mechanic that replaced the original insert. Can you match the pieces to the new (intact) insert, in terms of shape?

[philbytx]

One school of thought is that such a breakage is due to the fact that the LH cam chain tensioner piston bleeds out and, when you start it cold, it slaps a few times before the tensioner pressures up. BMW thoughtfully brought out an upgraded tensioner and there is a kit to upgrade your bike to this improved later type tensioner. It does appear like you MAY be a day late and a few dollars short for this mod though....

 

Certainly wouldn't hurt to, at least, eyeball the parts with the head cover off.

 

Other than the stock boxer noises, does the bike make ANY noise from the head area when you start it up and/or it idles?

[Mark G]

Regarding the noise, i'm hesitant to start it now to check, lol.

 

But I did notice a light clapping noise on the right side, down by the driveshaft which goes away when I pull the clutch in. I thought it was a typical noise/issue BMW's have.

 

Also when I start it, if it doesn't start right away and I let off the start swich it makes a whine, like the starter disengaging.

 

The bike is a retired police bike (i know, beat within inches of her life)(i know this because I do this on my police harley daily at work!)...so i can research if they upgrade was made to the BMW.

 

 

 

[Mark G]

NonComp, this was my first assumption and i removed ther cap and couldn't match any of the piece to any part of the cap housing.

 

I am going to hit the pawn shop, got to get me a propane heater, warm the garage up and get my wife is her daisy dukes...then the look into the cylinder, hahaha.

[Mark G]

Great link Phil

[philbytx]

Mark,

The noisy gearbox going away when the clutch pulled in is quite normal on RT's! Getrag started off making motorcycle gearboxes then added "agricultural machinery" y'know LOL!

 

Another "slight tapping noise" from the right hand side can also be the RH throttle cam adjuster tapping against it's stop.

 

I wouldn't get your undies in too much of a bundle about the plastic at the bottom provided your bike runs well without any weird noises !!

 

 

[Mark G]

The bike obviously needs to be repaired..thats if I see that the tensioner is chewed(going to do that tomorrow after work and should've brought my trailer home to take the bike to work with my). Could the plastic destroy the inner workings of the engine or will it be chewed up?

 

Do you know if the tools needed are BMW specific? Looks like a washer, a lock washer and a bolt have to be removed to replace the tensioners. And if the bike is opened up is there any other mileage specific parts to replace?

 

Youi're from San Antonio area...I had some fun down in Corpus with the banditos and some strippers! But that was back in the day before I knew what outlaw biker gangs were!

[Mark G]

Got the cover off tonight. The right side tensioner looks a little different from the left. Being that the left appears to have guides to guide the tensioner onto the chain(like a track, there is a top and sides to the guide...however it looks to have a groove forming on the guide section). The right side does not have the guide on the side of the tensioner guide.

 

So I am assuming that the wear I saw on the left chain tensioner has come and gone on the right tensioner and the plastic has become to break apart piece by piece.

 

Should I replace them is the next question?

 

Other than that the parts of the engine I could see look very well maintained!

[Mark G]

Damnit, they are installed opposite of each other. http://www.ebbo.org/stop_the_rattle.php

[kmac]

This is so weird to read this repair for the cam chain tensioner clatter. On my KTM 530 they have a hydraulic cam chain tensioner that clatters. So the fix is to put in a different tensioner that has a preload spring in like the stock one from the BMW...So weird, the same clatter tensioner issue but opposite fixes. One takes out the spring to stop the rattle one ADDs a spring to stop the rattle....

 

As Artie Johnson used to say..." Very interesting "

[dan cata]

The 1200 engines tensioner on the left side fits the 1100/1150's and stopes the startup rattle.

 

When I had my GS, I added like 4 washers under each spring and the rattle was less obvious after that.

 

Dan.

[philbytx]

Mark,

 

Don't shoot the messenger, puhlease !

But AFAIAA, the motor has to be stripped and the cases split to R&R the tensioner pieces .

 

Never done it but have seen previous posts on the subject and their responses. Perhaps someone that has done this can help you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AndyS]

...Don't shoot the messenger, puhlease !

I don't understand??

 

...But AFAIAA, the motor has to be stripped and the cases split to R&R the tensioner pieces .

 

On another forum there is a guy that claims he has done it by cutting an opening in the slotted part of the tensioner which locates on the inner mounting (which is an obround mounted on a post secured with circlip).

After much bantering with him about this, I personally think this would be a dodgy way to proceed & far too 'cowboy', so I too say that for a satisfactory repair, the cases have to be split.

 

Any other's have experience here?

 

Andy

[Mark G]

When you guys talk of splitting the cases, do you mean removing the engine and rebuilding it? Along with the clutch, timing and alternator. I need some type of micro camera I can stick in the engine through the valve covers to see exactly whats up.

 

I just may consider purchasing another engine from beemerboneyard.

[AndyS]

When you guys talk of splitting the cases, do you mean removing the engine and rebuilding it?

I know of no other way - others please chime in if you think it can be done, but I don't think it can.

 

Andy

[NonComp]

There was another topic on a failed cam chain tensioner posted on this forum about a month or two ago. If I remember correctly, the cost of repair (by the dealer) was significant due to the labor involved and replacement of some chewed up parts.

 

Don't ride the bike if the tensioner is broken. The loose chain can cause additional damage. If you hear rattling or grinding, park the bike.

[philbytx]

Andy,

Shoot the messenger means "Don't get mad at me because I tell you this :)"