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Airhead question


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To all,


I'm new to the AirHead world. I just purchased a '74 R60/6. I'm planning to do a basic service and have a question regarding the oil filter. I understand that there are different configurations. One with a regular filter cartridge, one thats hinged and also it depends if you have a oil cooler or not. I don't have a oil cooler so my question is does it matter if the filter is hinged or not?


I usually purchase consumables like filters on-line and I would like to increase my odds of getting the right part the first time.


Any thoughts?


Thanks for your help

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Oil cooler and non-oil cooler bikes use different filters. The original filter on non-cooler bikes was rigid one piece, but was replaced with the hinged version for easier filter change.

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Welcome aboard Randy, you'll find alot of airheads here, but most don't ride an Airhead... :grin:


The hinged filter is used on all bikes with an oil cooler.


I use either on my R90S. Use what you can get the best deal on. The hinged is easier to install, sometimes you'll have to futz to get the non-hinged type past the frame, at least on my 90S. You should have no prob with it. About 10 bucks worth.


Remember, oil capacity is quite smaller than modern day Beemers.

2.25 Qts if I remember right. That means more frequent intervals for changes. I change every 3k miles.


Have fun, and easy does it with that 40HP square motor.. :wave:



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It's my understanding that you can't get the un-hinged filters anymore. That's ok as you need the un-hinged to get past the frame anyway.

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40HP? My R65LS, 75/6 and 80/7 were all rated at 50hp. I know the 900 was a bit better than that. And the 900's got good mpg.


Don't get any good deals of Fram filtes. I bought a case of hinged and straight through a friends shop.Boxed Fram orange, stenciled 'canada'. Collapsed on themselves, very bad!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Enjoy that bike! I've got a 1974 R60/6 too. Don't be silly, the R60/6 will cruise all day at 70-80 mph, and it will give you around 50 mpg.


The oil-cooler equiped bikes use a longer filter that doesn't fit your bike. If you get them, you can use the straight one-piece filter - or use the hinged one.

11-42-1-337-198 - non-cooler straight filter

11-42-1-337-572(570) - hinged non-cooler filter

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All you ever wanted to know - http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/


Go to airheads.org and join the mailing list there. Most of the great "Airhead Gurus" are on that list and are extremely helpful to new owners like yourself. Patronize their shops (I prefer master Tom Cutter's http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com/ ) to thank them for the tons of free advice they give you. Keep the old ones goin'.



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Pay very special attention to how it comes out. Go to the airhead site and search $2000 oil change. If you get the o-ring in the wrong place, it will starve the engine for oil.


I have a 1979 R100RT. I went to the dealer and had them print the sheet that shows how it goes in. I use it every time I change the oil and filter. Hinged filters are much easier to get into the tight space.

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I've seen the air heads in action at rallies. They know how to party and they know how to fix. Give a buncha barley corn sloshed enthusiasts a sick or broken Air Head bike and magic happens. They are as nuts and capable as Guzzi enthusiasts. Nothing stodgy about them. :thumbsup:

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I've seen the air heads in action at rallies. They know how to party and they know how to fix. Give a buncha barley corn sloshed enthusiasts a sick or broken Air Head bike and magic happens. They are as nuts and capable as Guzzi enthusiasts. Nothing stodgy about them. :thumbsup:


Now thats an endorsement! :thumbsup:

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Oh, once you get past the dead simple task of oil filter change we can talk about pulling the trans back and lubing the clutch splines.

That otta give you pause. Quite simple actually. And check the brushes in the alternator, they get little and don't go sparky anymore. And carb tunes, The list just goes on....

My '78/7 sits for months at a time and still fires up easily. Amazing bikes.

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A second for the Airhead forum.

I belonged years ago, had a three digit member number but when I sold my 1980 R100 RT in 2004 I followed the membership rules (must own an Airhead) and dropped out.

Whatever your technical problem they've BTDT and can help.

Best wishes.

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I was a member for many years and alwas have had some airheads (including now). Very knowledge folks but the "email list" type of internet info just filled my inbox every day with too many emails. I really prefer the kind we have here. I think they tried it but people were just too used to the email and didn't use it. You know old folks don't like change :grin:

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I think I did something to reduce the flow of messages, but maybe I'm imagining that... :P


If you join Airheads, you can select to receive the "Digest" mode. You'll get two or three emails per day with all of the messages sequentially. It's a chatty list but it is manageable. You can always just hit the delete key.

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Thannks, it has been a while.

Loved the monthly AirMail and passed them on to the new owner of my RT.

Sometimes think I should've bent the rules and kept membership current.

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  • 1 month later...

Plus the Airhead logo is cool! What a way to spend at a rally! Food, tinkering, beer, tinkering, jokes, tinkering, gadgets, tinkering. And the valves ARE the center of the Universe...

I tink



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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

You don't need a video or someone to hold you hand to lube the splines on an airhead. Nothing about the job is hidden, just look at what you have to do and go from there. With even moderate practice you can completely remove and reinstall an airhead transmission in about 45 minutes. No mystery, airheads aren't magic. just apply basic mechanical skills.

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