Hexhead Spares to Carry?

[racer7]

A BMW bike is certainly different than a car if touring. Generally you can get necessary car parts in any reasonably sized town. It is likely to take a couple days to get a bike part shipped to you (maybe a lot worse than that if you need a new FD). So I carry spares for the things that can stop the bike from running or make it run very badly (in addition to tools, spare bulbs, plug kit and inflator, wire, etc)

 

Here's my idea of the emergency spares list, some less likely to get used than others. Point is to be able to do a fast, roadside repair if needed, to keep going without calling for a tow. Cost is variable depending on whether you carry new or used parts. Yeah I know I'm more compulsive about being able to deal with possible problems than many- who might prefer to have a beer and call AAA

 

1) EWS ring ($15-$37)

2) FPC or jumper ($0 - $150)

3) Alternator belt ($0 - $30)

4) FD main seal ($30?)

5) Wire to jumper sidestand switch ($0)

6) Sight glass window ($40?)

7) Primary stick coil ($50-120)

 

Of course, parts can be shared with riding buddies- its nearly as good as sharing homebrew beer for adding to your social index.

 

What's your list? Or do you vote to put me in the looney bin?? (Note- mine is obviously not an off road / GS list)

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Waiting for a tow can cost hours (often $$ as well, depending on the circumstances); waiting for a dealer to fix your bike once they get their hands on it could cost days. My vacation time is precious; if the malfunction is something I can fix roadside in an hour or two with a bit of preparedness, I'm all for it.

 

1) EWS ring ($15-$37)

I understood this to be a problem only for a particular subgroup of hexheads. That said, if it does crap out, I also understood that it could take a very long time to get a replacement - enough time to thoroughly ruin a vacation. If a spare is less than $40, even if a failure is long odds, that's probably not a bad investment.

 

2) FPC or jumper ($0 - $150)

My FPC died early this fall after 11,000 miles, so there's a new one installed now. Nonetheless, I'll be picking up a spare one before hitting the road this spring.

 

3) Alternator belt ($0 - $30)

Check.

 

4) FD main seal ($30?)

Is this something that can be replaced roadside without much difficulty?

 

5) Wire to jumper sidestand switch ($0)

Didn't know for sure that this was a weak point, but I do carry wire and tape on the bike for...whatever comes up. I guess this counts.

 

6) Sight glass window ($40?)

Carried a spare on my 1100RT, but I think the hexhead OSG is secured with a circlip, isn't it? That's a lot more secure than the friction-fit OSG on the hexhead bikes, so I'm probably not going to bother with this spare.

 

7) Primary stick coil ($50-120)

Hm. Thinking about it now...

 

Of course, parts can be shared with riding buddies- its nearly as good as sharing homebrew beer for adding to your social index.

True, but I suspect that for any rider, a significant portion of one's touring will be done without company. For spring Torrey 2007, I covered 5000 miles total, 200 of which I did solo. Likewise for BRR trips: the commute between Michigan and the Smokies - 600 miles each way - is solo.

 

Tools?

complete set of Torx L-wrenches

Torx sockets + driver handle

front axle tool

coupla screwdrivers

crescent wrench

pliers/sidecutters

tire repair kit (sticky-ropes+cement) + Slime pump

GS-911 and netbook (interstate touring only)

collection of zip-ties

several yards of duct tape

probably some other stuff I can't remember

compact DVM

 

On my 1100RT, I scanned in the electrical schematics from the Haynes manual, printed them at reduced size, and had them laminated to be carried on the bike. I received a Haynes manual for my 1200RT a few months ago; I will do the same thing this winter for this bike.

[Norm 88]

7)Tire plug kit

6)Slime air comp.

5)Adj.freeze plug for sight glass hole

4)Alt belt

3)fpc jumper

2)Cell phone

1)Bottle of Merlot to use waiting for Tow Truck

[racer7]

The FD main seal in principle can be done by laying the bike over, getting a couple screws into the seal and levering it out. Minimum tools would be punch, necessary screws and something to lever it out. Plus the old seal and a small hammer to drive in the new one- maybe some scotchbrite to smooth any roughness. Or find a local shop with a puller- you'll at least have the part. The factory procedure involves a mini slide hammer after drilling the seal. Haven't done this roadside yet but I've done plenty of seals- shouldn't be too bad. Main thing is to keep enough oil in the FD so you can ride it after the seal is replaced- unless you also want to carry FD lube and a way to fill the FD. (In a pinch, it would be possible to go a very few miles on light load with some other oil but this risks the gears if too far or too hard so is not a first choice- the main difference between engine oil and D gear oil is the load additives, not viscosity. It is impossible to operate an FD with no added lube- it will overheat)

 

Yes the sight glass is in the hexheads with a clip. Its more insurance against a crack than against just popping out. Not a very common failure, I'd expect, but I'm not one to have a lot of faith in old plastic- probably more important for older bikes.

 

In theory, the current EWS has "no issues". But for sure there is no workaround (unless you think you can wind and wire in your own coil from enough spare wire) - so if it dies and you lack a spare, you're toast. Mine never died but was a recall replacement. Just don't trust stuff like this.

 

Your fpc lasted even fewer miles than mine- must be wetter up there.

 

My tool set is a modified ADVdesign one that has everything on your list and more - with extra cutters, mini hammer, etc. Also lots of compact lights with lithium batts because I do ride at night whenever necessary. I carry my own bike size jumper cables but also have a Battery Bug to reduce chances of unexpected battery failure (though I guess one could still have an internal battery connector just break from vibration, etc)

 

I've got the factory RepROM copied to the HD of my netbook (wow is that slow to do!) as well as the parts fiches off the web. Also carry the dvm and GS-911.

 

Possibly because I'm prepared, I never seem to have any serious problems (yet....). Guess I might see you at the next BRR or Unrally (already registered for that- don't delay if you want a room on site).

 

I'm not aware of hexheads having any electric generation parts that fail with any frequency so have no spares in that category (except a belt).

Bulbs can be pulled or lights disconnected to get as many miles as possible from a battery on a bike that isn't charging.

[Ken H.]

1) EWS ring ($15-$37) - If you want, but that problem is largely behind us.

2) FPC or jumper ($0 - $150) - Nope, $5 will by you wire anywhere.

3) Alternator belt ($0 - $30) - Yes.

4) FD main seal ($30?) - A leak won't stop you and failures are rare.

5) Wire to jumper sidestand switch ($0) - See #2.

6) Sight glass window ($40?) - Nope, they can't fall out on the R1200xx series.

7) Primary stick coil ($50-120) - Nope, a bad one won't stop you. Besides there are three different ones for four plugs to buy and carry.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

2) FPC or jumper ($0 - $150) - Nope, $5 will by you wire anywhere.

 

Sure, if your bike conveniently dies within walking distance of a hardware store.

 

 

[FlyingFinn]

7) Primary stick coil ($50-120) - Nope, a bad one won't stop you.

 

I was going to ask about this one. How does a hexhead run with one of the main coils gone dead? There's still the secondary plug firing, but is that enough to keep the engine running close to normal?

Or does it indeed run so well one might not even notice if one of the primary coils kicks the bucket?

 

--

Mikko

[mistral]

I think there is thread on how to bypass the side stand switch. I need to find that.

[racer7]

AFAIK there are only 2 current stick coil part numbers for an RT but maybe my knowledge is old or wrong.. If there is a third, what is it for?

 

I have not tried running my RT with a primary disconnected but

i've run plenty of other engines with dual coil or plug setups and seen that they don't run worth a damn with only a secondary but will run passably (not as well as both) with only a primary. And the primary and secondary on a hexhead aren't intechangeable so you can't swap one for the other.

 

[Paul Mihalka]

7) Primary stick coil ($50-120) - Nope, a bad one won't stop you.

 

I was going to ask about this one. How does a hexhead run with one of the main coils gone dead? There's still the secondary plug firing, but is that enough to keep the engine running close to normal?

Or does it indeed run so well one might not even notice if one of the primary coils kicks the bucket?

 

--

Mikko

 

I had one main coil fail on my '05 R1200GS. It was running like shite but running, I did ride it for a few days until I found what the problem was.

[dirtrider]

 

Last I looked BMW lists a different left and different right secondary coil. The only difference I can see is the angle of the rubber on the coil’s body that sits against the cyl head.

 

I guess a person would have to verify this but I’m thinking a little trimming with a knife to make that rubber straight across and one coil could fit both sides.

 

 

[randy]

ok I am new to the hexheads

what is a EWC

what is a FPC

 

all the other items make sense

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Randy

 

I presume you mean EWS not EWC? If so that is a antenna ring and matching pellet in the ignition key to prevent theft. The antenna ring reads the key pellet then sends the signal to the system electronics to verify the correct key is being used.

 

On the FPC? That is the (Fuel Pump Controller) it is basically a big transistor with other electronics to allow the fueling computer to control the fuel pump speed. (think of it as a variable relay that controls the fuel pump)

 

[Nesbocaj]

Alternator belt? Has anyone seen one break?

 

The bike will run, and not that badly with one bad stick coil.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Alternator belt? Has anyone seen one break?

 

The bike will run, and not that badly with one bad stick coil.

 

My 1100RT used to chew through alternator belts before the manual-specified service interval. Had one break out on the road.

 

It happens. A spare is cheap, compact, easy to carry.

[Redbrick]

7)Tire plug kit

6)Slime air comp.

5)Adj.freeze plug for sight glass hole

4)Alt belt

3)fpc jumper

2)Cell phone

1)Bottle of Merlot to use waiting for Tow Truck

 

Don't worry about spares, tools and stuff, save space and always ride with a friend (Oldmoto) who carries all that might be needed........ ...Whoops.....This post may be a big mistake..

 

[FlyingFinn]

It happens. A spare is cheap, compact, easy to carry.

 

But can you change it in five seconds?

 

 

--

Mikko

[racer7]

Paul,

Thanks for reporting your GS experience. That's about what I've seen from other engine types. They WILL run but not at all well. Won't leave you stuck in the middle of nowhere - just make the experience not much fun until it gets fixed.

[Ken H.]

AFAIK there are only 2 current stick coil part numbers for an RT but maybe my knowledge is old or wrong.. If there is a third, what is it for?

Secondaries are different left vs. right. The rubber molding is different.

[Ken H.]

Alternator belt? Has anyone seen one break?

Oh yeah. Our R1200GS turned one to shreads just this summer past. About 25Km on it when it went.

[racer7]

A 63 Beetle was the first car I owned (in about 1971 IIRC). It was what taught me to be prepared on the road and never be stupid enough to ever again own a rear engine vehicle that requires getting underneath to do almost everything when you live in snow country. Absolutely the worst made piece of crap I've ever owned, not surprising given that it was a Hitler pre WWII econoslug design. But it would go in snow until the belly pan floated it out of traction, pretty much without regard to how steep a hill was and could be jumped rolling down a hill when it was too cold for the starter to crank the motor. Got rid of it after a kingpin broke for my wife one day and its body was down to only a couple or 3 of the bolts holding it to the pan still having any attachment points left- would have come completely apart in even a minor fender bender.

 

But it would run in an amazing state of degradation- once for over 1500 miles on only 2 cylinders due to a fragged rocker assembly on one side. My RT is more comfortable in cold weather- at least it has heated seats and I can see out the front without scraping the screen while riding. And it makes enough juice to power the Gerbings- something the old 6V bugs could never have managed- they could barely keep headlights on.

 

In principle I guess you could spin a belt on a hexhead the same way as that fun video but I like my fingers in one piece so the plastic or can bit or the pricey BMW tool are more my style. Neat demo though.

 

I've never seen or had a friend break a hexhead belt and belts today are certainly much better than when I took auto mech in the 60s. when belt faiures for even new ones were pretty common. Mostly I think due to the very hi tensile strength fibers used today and also to better rubber compounds. But I don't think its a big deal to tuck one under the seat. If you do your own work and inventory some parts in anticipation of required service, you will already have either a new belt or your old used one on hand unless you bike is very new.

 

I tend to put these decisions in the context of "riding in the mountains" for a week, where the nearest dealer is a couple hundred miles away.

Don't want to have play time messed up when only a simple fix is needed. For the same reason, I start with enough rubber to get through the week because I don't choose to tote a spare or try to hunt up a PR-2 in the right size in places where I know they won't exist.

For around town riding- well the parts are there and I can choose roadside, my own shop, or my nearest buddies shop depending on circumstances.

 

No, I don't carry all the spares in my garage. For example, I don't carry brake pads or spare brake fluid or any type of clutch parts or fluid, etc.

Which I guess brings up the question- are clutch slave cylinder failures common enough to be an issue? My sense is that they're not unless your machine is so old that its time to think about a re-up anyway but perhaps others have a different opinion. One can certainly at least minimize clutch usage and potential leakage leading to clutch failure if a leaky cylinder is suspected but you sure wouldn't want to get caught out with an oiled clutch disc or possible related seal failure- definitely not an "on the road" repair.

[racer7]

Dirtrider,

Thanks for parts education on the secondary coils. Looks there have been several running changes to these things - maybe for different suppliers or minor construction variants?

[basilr]

 

The FPC I could handle, but what does it take to change the EWS? If it is behind us, was it a software upgrade or hardware? I have a 2005 RT so could it still be in front of me?

 

Is there any instructions on how to get do the kickstand jump if necessary?

[racer7]

On the kickstand all you need to do is pull the tupperware on that side, trace the switch wire from the stand to the plug and unplug it, then jumper the two "outside" wires (1 and 3) in the plug on the bike side.

 

Re the EWS, yours might be pre-recall? Anyway, with a spare, all you need to do is plug it in to the wire at the base of the stock one and get it next to the key so it recognizes it. Stock original might still be on with some security screws to remove for some eventual bolting on of replacement? (Mine was replaced on recall when I picked it up originally so I never saw the initial mounting screws on mine. What's on there now are regular torx type)

 

Don't forget you need a T-20 to pull the fpc and do any version of the repair- that size doesn't come with the bike.

 

There are plenty of threads on these- do a search to read more.

[tsp]

I carry a final drive, one piston, and 4 valves (if you remove the head you might as well replace all 4 valves).

 

Just kidding! I have a 2010 so I still have roadside service from BMW and also from my ins company. I carry a set of torx wrenches, tire patch kit, and 12V tire pump. Also have some zip ties, leatherman tool, small wire, rags, and flash light.

 

tsp

 

[Paul Mihalka]

I carry a final drive, one piston, and 4 valves (if you remove the head you might as well replace all 4 valves).

 

Just kidding! I have a 2010 so I still have roadside service from BMW and also from my ins company. I carry a set of torx wrenches, tire patch kit, and 12V tire pump. Also have some zip ties, leatherman tool, small wire, rags, and flash light.

 

tsp

Don't forget the duct tape. That is more or less the stuff I carry.

[racer7]

Duct tape and zip ties- can build a bike with them- well, almost anyway....My track car would literally have parts rip off without its zip ties..

 

Paul- your comment is interesting especially in light of the miles you go for bike entertainment. Your run to Savannah a couple weeks ago was a bit longer and no doubt a bit cooler than mine. Does nothing ever break for you? Do you do good enough prep that only the statistical freak is going to stop you- or are you just "wing it when it happens" based on experience/comfort coping with roadside problems?

[Paul Mihalka]

It's a combination of things. The bike is well maintained. Like I don't expect a fairly fresh alternator belt to break. Defects that stopped me on my trips were not fixable with carry-on parts and roadside work. Like a rear drive failure around Vancouver on the 150K mile R1100RT (magnificently helped out by bmwst friends) or the clutch spline failure (30K R1150R grrrrr) among cotton fields in Arkansas - $1.000+ Uhaul home. I like basic. I have a cell phone for less than a year, only use it when away from home and emergencies. Before that, when I was asked what do I do in a emergency, I said I have a good thumb to raise.

Yeah, i know, I'm the poster old fart for a Luddite...

[racer7]

Paul,

Sounds like you do a bit of everything and have been bitten by the odd stuff that's hard to prevent unless you take the bike apart and blurprint it periodically.....

 

I guess I've been lucky. So far, never stranded by car or bike but several of those worked out only because I had the means at hand to do the fix. (mostly stuff like plugged fuel filters, failed ignition bits, etc)

 

Nothing like an experienced hands perspective. I carry a cell but hardly ever use it- and signals don't exist in some of the places I could have a failure though none are so far out in the weeds that I'd be in any physical danger. I've been riding a lot of years but I'll never get to your mileage totals. Thanks for the info.

[Missouri Bob]

Re the EWS, yours might be pre-recall? Anyway, with a spare, all you need to do is plug it in to the wire at the base of the stock one and get it next to the key so it recognizes it. Stock original might still be on with some security screws to remove for some eventual bolting on of replacement? (Mine was replaced on recall when I picked it up originally so I never saw the initial mounting screws on mine. What's on there now are regular torx type)

 

I would like to replace the "security screws" on my GS with something I can access on the road. How does one remove said screws?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Bob

 

To get those security screws out you need to remove the upper triple tree then flip it over & drill the screws out.

 

OR-- Just leave it alone, then (IF) your antenna ring should ever fail on the road (most with updated parts never will), just unplug your original antenna ring (then leave it bolted in place) then simply plug the new antenna ring in & tape your spare key inside the new ring.

 

It will basically work forever that way or at least long enough to complete your trip or trips.

 

Then, once home again take the time to drill the old one & replace it properly.

 

Even if the screws are replaced with cap head or torx it is still W-A-Y easier to just plug the new one in with a key in the ring than to try to replace that antenna ring on the road.

 

[Missouri Bob]

Thanks, D. R.!

 

Your point regarding the relative difficulty of the two procedures is well-taken. Still, I may attempt to pull the security screws. Doing so, should almost guaranty that the antenna ring never fails.

 

Bob

[Tri750]

If you invest in a quality left hand, long drill bit, you won't have to pull the top triple tree.

Drilling center of the bolts with the extended bit gives you room for the drill.

I think it was a 6mm or 1/4" bit we used. Maybe 8"-10" long ?

 

Fit your drill motor up in there and eyeball the length bit you'll need to be far enough forward to clear the headlight, bracketry, wiring.

 

Grainger or McMaster-Carr will have a good quality bit.

 

A lift makes it easier, but you could do it on your back too.

 

The reverse rotation of the bit drills a hole and backs the tamper proof bolts out as they grab a bite as well.

There were few bikes we actually had to remove the triple tree from.

 

In the event you drill all the way thru the head, remove the EWS, and the remaining bolt will spin right out.

 

 

 

Really, the chances of you needing an EWS antenna is pretty rare as already mentioned.

 

the odds of you picking up a nail are far greater.

[Missouri Bob]

Although I don't have any LH bits, I do have a decent set of RH cobalt bits. Standing next to the bike and pulling up on the drill, I was able to get the security screws' heads off. The ignition switch then dropped down, exposing the remaining screw stubs.

 

They would not budge.

 

I removed the fork bridge, and drilled the stubs so that I could use a screw extractor.

 

They still didn't want to budge.

 

I am guessing that the screws were put in with red Loctite because I had to use a torch to back them out. Once out, I cleaned up the threads with a 8.0x1.25 tap.

 

Now I need to buy some 8mm Torx screws.

 

Bob

[dirtrider]

Evening Bob

 

Those screws (as new on the later bikes) are Micro-encapsulated so they will fight you about like they were Loc-Tited in.

 

That is why I usually just remove the upper triple tree rather than fool around with trying to drill them out on the bike & getting metal particles all over the bike.

 

Once the screw heads are drilled off then a little heat from a micro torch & they usually come right out.

 

You can use either torx or allen head cap screws. The allen head allow a hex driver or even an allen wrench to remove them later.

 

If you plan on removing the torx or allen head on the road then use a little Blue (242) or even the lighter pink (222) Loc-Tite at installation.