Chef Eric Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 How do I tighten the tension on my clutch? The clutch is not slipping. I just have to pull the clutch all the way to the handle bars for smooth shifting. Thanks! Link to comment
94aero Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 The 1150 has a hydrulic cluch. It sounds as it has air in the system. You will have to bleed it. Link to comment
NonComp Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Sounds like you want to do a brake fluid flush/bleed on the clutch circuit. Is the fluid level low? There may be air in the system also. A likely cause of this is that the slave unit has started to leak, lowering the fluid level. If that is the case, the slave unit will have to be replaced. Link to comment
Chef Eric Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thanks, I guess it helps to know what I am asking. Newbie, obviousley! Link to comment
NonComp Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 If the slave unit is leaking, you probably want to deal with it sooner than later. The fluid could work its way up to the clutch plates and foul them too. Link to comment
Chef Eric Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 I have not seen a leak yet. I am going to do some more looking. Hopefully it is just some air. It is below half full of fluid so it needs a bleed regardless. Link to comment
Boffin Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I have not seen a leak yet. I am going to do some more looking. Hopefully it is just some air. It is below half full of fluid so it needs a bleed regardless. On the boxer, the design of the clutch means that the clutch fluid rises as the clutch wears, so low level is normally an indication of a leak. The fluid leaks onto the actuator rod, migrates down that onto the clutch plate - all without external signs of a leak. If this happens, the clutch plate will need replacing, which is a major task, circa 8-hours of dealer time. I strongly recommend that the first thing you do is pull the slave and look for signs of an oily gunk at the release bearing. It is a bit tight, but the slave will come off without removing the swingarm. Andy Link to comment
flars Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Another telltale is the color of the fluid in the reservoir. If it is chocolate, or has any other color than that of normal brake fluid...your slave cylinder has gone South. Very common failure, especially on the '02 model. Link to comment
ElevenFifty Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 or - if you are lucky - you are new to the BMW and just haven't gotten used to the dry clutch and clunky transmission. The shift into first from Neutral will require a full lever pull ... Once you are on the move, try putting some upward pressure on the shifter, keep the rpm's up and then just blip the clutch. This technique is referred to around here as 'pre-loading' the shifter. Really does smooth things out. Link to comment
rad Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Remember, KISS Keep it Simple, Stupid…….No offence intended If your clutch has not been bled in the last 12 months, then just find the directions on line for a clutch system bleed. It is easy to do and all you need to buy is a speed bleeder or stock nibble to replace the grub screw, some proper brake fluid and a few inches of tubing. If that does not the trick, then move on to more complicated solutions. Link to comment
Chef Eric Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 I'm having a hard time finding a speed bleeder kit and such, I live in the sticks. Can I drive on it until I can have one shipped or????? Link to comment
NonComp Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I'm having a hard time finding a speed bleeder kit and such, I live in the sticks. Can I drive on it until I can have one shipped or????? If it was me, I'd want to look and determine whether or not the slave unit is leaking first. A clutch job could set you back $1500. Link to comment
Chef Eric Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 I have finally had time to look at the fluid and the level. The fluid is a light brown and still has the proper amount of fluid. It is not low like I first mentioned. Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Don't bother with the speed bleeder. bust do it in the conventional way. You will need some sort of nipple to fit to the bleeding adaptor though. Andy Link to comment
Chef Eric Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 Just to keep the newbie questions going here. What sort of nipple is needed to do a bleed without the speed bleeder? Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Just to keep the newbie questions going here. What sort of nipple is needed to do a bleed without the speed bleeder? From what I remember, a caliper bleeder also fits the clutch bleeder hose You can ride the bike until you get one, it's like 5$ or so Unfortunately, I don't know the size of the bleeder, but I do have one in my garage... Dan. Link to comment
Boffin Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 The bleeder is a 10x1mm Andy Link to comment
Chef Eric Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 I got it. Clutch is bled and feels right. Thanks for your help. Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 I got it. Clutch is bled and feels right. Thanks for your help. Nice one. Hope all is well with it now. Andy Link to comment
RichK Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 You still need to keep an eye on it. As mentioned in previous posts, failure of the clutch slaver cylinder is common on the 02's (including mine). The BMW clutch disengages with just a "snick" of the lever. If you start noticing the engagement point moving closer to the grip after your bleed, then it's time to replace the cylinder -- an additional bleed won't do any good. If that's the case, come back on line and ask -- a number of us have performed this operation and can give you hints. It can be done in a couple of hours; parts cost is around $100 IIRC. Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 failure of the clutch slaver cylinder is common on the 02's But not all. My '02 has 112,000 miles on the original clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder. I did re-lube the slave cylinder throw out bearing at about 70,000 miles when I did a spline lube on the bike. Clutch was only about 1/3 worn out at that time, so I left all the old parts in service. I still have a new clutch disc and slave cylinder sitting in my parts box. Stan Link to comment
NonComp Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 I wonder if the slave unit failures are more common on bikes that sit for longer periods of time. It probably confirms that good maintenance practices, such as regular fluid replacement, likely do prevent some problems from developing. Link to comment
dan cata Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 I believe that the main reason of slave cylinders failing is that they are undersized for the job they need to do. Link to comment
Jerry Duke Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 On my R11S I would bleed the clutch AND brakes every year. I went over 100,000 miles before the clutch slave cylinder went south. When mine went there was almost no symptom, riding home from a 30 miles Sunday morning ride the closer I got to home the closer the lever got to the grip. Pulled in the garage, removed the clutch reservoir and it had gear oil in it. Thanks again to Beemerboneyard.com and a new Magura slave cylinder was installed. Link to comment
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