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02 R1150Rt Clutch tension


Chef Eric

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How do I tighten the tension on my clutch? The clutch is not slipping. I just have to pull the clutch all the way to the handle bars for smooth shifting.

 

Thanks!

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Sounds like you want to do a brake fluid flush/bleed on the clutch circuit. Is the fluid level low? There may be air in the system also.

 

A likely cause of this is that the slave unit has started to leak, lowering the fluid level. If that is the case, the slave unit will have to be replaced.

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If the slave unit is leaking, you probably want to deal with it sooner than later. The fluid could work its way up to the clutch plates and foul them too.

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I have not seen a leak yet. I am going to do some more looking. Hopefully it is just some air. It is below half full of fluid so it needs a bleed regardless.

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I have not seen a leak yet. I am going to do some more looking. Hopefully it is just some air. It is below half full of fluid so it needs a bleed regardless.

 

On the boxer, the design of the clutch means that the clutch fluid rises as the clutch wears, so low level is normally an indication of a leak. The fluid leaks onto the actuator rod, migrates down that onto the clutch plate - all without external signs of a leak. If this happens, the clutch plate will need replacing, which is a major task, circa 8-hours of dealer time.

 

I strongly recommend that the first thing you do is pull the slave and look for signs of an oily gunk at the release bearing. It is a bit tight, but the slave will come off without removing the swingarm.

 

Andy

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Another telltale is the color of the fluid in the reservoir. If it is chocolate, or has any other color than that of normal brake fluid...your slave cylinder has gone South. Very common failure, especially on the '02 model.

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or - if you are lucky - you are new to the BMW and just haven't gotten used to the dry clutch and clunky transmission.

 

The shift into first from Neutral will require a full lever pull ... Once you are on the move, try putting some upward pressure on the shifter, keep the rpm's up and then just blip the clutch. This technique is referred to around here as 'pre-loading' the shifter. Really does smooth things out.

 

 

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Remember, KISS

 

Keep it Simple, Stupid…….No offence intended :grin:

 

If your clutch has not been bled in the last 12 months, then just find the directions on line for a clutch system bleed. It is easy to do and all you need to buy is a speed bleeder or stock nibble to replace the grub screw, some proper brake fluid and a few inches of tubing. If that does not the trick, then move on to more complicated solutions.

 

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I'm having a hard time finding a speed bleeder kit and such, I live in the sticks. Can I drive on it until I can have one shipped or?????

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I'm having a hard time finding a speed bleeder kit and such, I live in the sticks. Can I drive on it until I can have one shipped or?????
If it was me, I'd want to look and determine whether or not the slave unit is leaking first. A clutch job could set you back $1500.
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I have finally had time to look at the fluid and the level. The fluid is a light brown and still has the proper amount of fluid. It is not low like I first mentioned.

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Don't bother with the speed bleeder. bust do it in the conventional way. You will need some sort of nipple to fit to the bleeding adaptor though.

 

Andy

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Just to keep the newbie questions going here. What sort of nipple is needed to do a bleed without the speed bleeder?

 

From what I remember, a caliper bleeder also fits the clutch bleeder hose ;)

 

You can ride the bike until you get one, it's like 5$ or so ;) Unfortunately, I don't know the size of the bleeder, but I do have one in my garage...

 

Dan.

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You still need to keep an eye on it. As mentioned in previous posts, failure of the clutch slaver cylinder is common on the 02's (including mine). The BMW clutch disengages with just a "snick" of the lever. If you start noticing the engagement point moving closer to the grip after your bleed, then it's time to replace the cylinder -- an additional bleed won't do any good.

 

If that's the case, come back on line and ask -- a number of us have performed this operation and can give you hints. It can be done in a couple of hours; parts cost is around $100 IIRC.

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failure of the clutch slaver cylinder is common on the 02's

 

But not all. My '02 has 112,000 miles on the original clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder.

 

I did re-lube the slave cylinder throw out bearing at about 70,000 miles when I did a spline lube on the bike. Clutch was only about 1/3 worn out at that time, so I left all the old parts in service.

 

I still have a new clutch disc and slave cylinder sitting in my parts box.

 

Stan

 

 

 

 

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I wonder if the slave unit failures are more common on bikes that sit for longer periods of time. It probably confirms that good maintenance practices, such as regular fluid replacement, likely do prevent some problems from developing.

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On my R11S I would bleed the clutch AND brakes every year. I went over 100,000 miles before the clutch slave cylinder went south.

When mine went there was almost no symptom, riding home from a 30 miles Sunday morning ride the closer I got to home the closer the lever got to the grip. Pulled in the garage, removed the clutch reservoir and it had gear oil in it.

Thanks again to Beemerboneyard.com and a new Magura slave cylinder was installed.

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