BeemerBerg Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Here's a handy reference chart for all the common torque values for the 1200's (prolly works for 11xx's too?) Have I missed anything? Chime in. Nice to have posted in the workshop. Link to comment
Gnomad Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Thanks, Ken. That will be very helpful. Dave Link to comment
dirtrider Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Afternoon Ken Nice start. You probably should include the most stripped bolts on the 1200 hexhead, that is the cylinder head COVER to cylinder head bolts (valve cover attachment bolts)– 10 Nm__ tighten in diagonally opposite sequence . Link to comment
JR356 Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Another source,listed as GS,but all main values the same across the lineup as far as engine/frame/etc: http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html JR356 Link to comment
JayW Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Excellent. You may want to differentiate the muffler nut on the clamp underneath, which is tightened to 55 Nm vs the muffler screw on the bracket, which is only tightened to 19 Nm. This will be handy. I do get tired of pulling out the owner's manual every time I work with these fasteners. Jay Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 Although I've never done it, I am curious as to the torque requirements for tupperware screws...I always just hand tighten, but recently I found a nifty tool at a bicycle shop that would work in tight spaces, clicks at 5nm. Unfortunately, it has a hex bit instead of torx, but it's a good idea. And thanks for the chart. It's going up on the garage wall. Link to comment
Twisties Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Hi Ken! How's life down in Kanab these days? Here is my old attempt... We are in general agreement, but I think that while you show more items, I have a few details worth noting. Especially the oil drain plug final torque. Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Afternoon Ken Nice start. You probably should include the most stripped bolts on the 1200 hexhead, that is the cylinder head COVER to cylinder head bolts (valve cover attachment bolts) 10 Nm__ tighten in diagonally opposite sequence . This was 8 N*m on the oilheads, and I think the screws on the hexheads are the same size. Did they increase the torque spec to 10? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Afternoon Ken Nice start. You probably should include the most stripped bolts on the 1200 hexhead, that is the cylinder head COVER to cylinder head bolts (valve cover attachment bolts) 10 Nm__ tighten in diagonally opposite sequence . This was 8 N*m on the oilheads, and I think the screws on the hexheads are the same size. Did they increase the torque spec to 10? Afternoon Mitch I guess, -- that’s a good question. All my 1200 hexhead RepRom’s show 10nm on the cover bolts and you are correct the oil head is shown at 8nm. The covers are slightly different as well as the cyl heads but the bolts and attachment are real similar. Link to comment
Dave_zoom_zoom Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Please explain to the unknowing! Why are the spark plugs 17 lb. ft. than again 17 lb. ft.? Thank You!!! Link to comment
Twisties Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I'm no engineer, but that's what the reprom cd shows. I assume it has to do with the design of the spark plug seal washer, but I have no idea of the specifics. I understand that the oil drain plug uses a crush washer (also replace each use), but really don't know why you torque to one level, stop, and then proceed to another. Time for the material to flow out a bit? Doesn't really seem reasonable in my mind. Never the less, those are the specifications as I understand them. Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I understand that the oil drain plug uses a crush washer (also replace each use), but really don't know why you torque to one level, stop, and then proceed to another. Time for the material to flow out a bit? Doesn't really seem reasonable in my mind. Never the less, those are the specifications as I understand them. Some materials exhibit a pair of related properties called "creep" and "relaxation." creep: the tendency of a material to exhibit increasing strain (distortion) over time as a result of constant stress. relaxation: the tendency of a material to exhibit decreasing stress over time as a result of constant strain (distortion). Plastics are famous for this, but the only metal I was aware of that exhibited C&R was lead. Possible aluminum crush washers do so as well, but that'd be news to me. Theory: if relaxation is an issue (and I'm not saying it is), it could cause the integrity of the seal from a single-stage torquing to decrease over time. Alternative theory: two-stage torque action gives time for oil to flow out of areas that are critical for sealing, allowing a more robust seal to be formed by the second stage/cycle of torque. In any event, it seems superfluous. This is the first time I've heard of two-stage torque specs (or repeat-torque specs) for spark plugs or crush washers; single-stage torques did just fine on my oilhead. Link to comment
Twisties Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Well, I mainly intended to point out in my initial post to this thread that you likely want to take the oil drain plug to 24 foot lbs and not leave it at 17. YMMV Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.