2005 1150RT Brake Flush

[cris nitro]

I have read quite a bit online here and feel ready to tackle the complete brake/clutch flush. I have down loaded a great article here on the job, but have a couple of questions. The bike only has 10,000 miles and the fluid is dark, so it past due. I am getting the material to make the funnel for the controller fill. I am going to order new QD's for the tank and speed bleeders for the calipers. How about replacing the fuel lines and filter while the tank is off? I don't ride that many miles and don't won't to take off the tank again anytime soon. Anything else I am missing I should do while it is all apart?

 

[dirtrider]

Morning Cris

 

It sounds like you have a plan.

 

Yes if the fluid is dark and not done since 06/06 it is well overdue.

 

My personal opinion is you don’t need or gain much with caliper speed bleeders on the BMW servo assist brake systems as the brake controller pump will run when key-on and lever/pedal is depressed so will pressure bleed that side of the system.

Where the speed bleeders might help slightly is on the ABS controller control side (top of ABS controller) but there have been reported instances of speed bleeders being used on the control side damaging the ABS controller so I would caution against using them there also.

A long clear hose attached to the bleed nipple then going into a bottle lower than the bleed nipple makes a great automatic valve using the standing wave in the long hose. (try it- it works great)

 

On the clutch bleeding - you will probably need to buy a bleeder screw to replace the factory fill “check valve” that’s on the end of the remote slave cylinder bleed hose. Most that I have seen don’t have any bleed nipple from the factory so one will have to be added. If the end of the purchased bleed screw is pointed correctly you can just add it where the plug is on the end of the remote bleed hose check valve then only open it very slightly. Most just remove the factory check valve completely and toss it then replace that factory fill check valve with a simple bleeder nipple.

 

[awagnon]

Most just remove the factory check valve completely and toss it then replace that factory fill check valve with a simple bleeder nipple.

 

Hi, Chris,

 

I agree with dirtrider. Toss the clutch bleed check valve as far as you can and replace it with a simple bleeder nipple which you leave in place after bleeding the clutch. You'll probably need to heat the check valve to remove it.

 

I don't used speed bleeders to flush the brakes. Quite easy without, though an extra pair of hands or a third arm helps. I wouldn't replace any hoses, except you may have to when you replace the QD's. Sometimes the fuel line gets messed up trying to remove the OEM QD's. Be sure to use FI clamps on the hoses. Good luck.

[NonComp]

I've used a cheap MityVac for bleeding with good results. Not sure how it will work on your system, though, with the servo brakes.

[philbytx]

Chris,

 

If you order the QD's from Beemerboneyard, on the same page they also have an FI hose set available (they are EXTERNAL hoses!) and comes complete with FI clamps .

[dirtrider]

I've used a cheap MityVac for bleeding with good results. Not sure how it will work on your system, though, with the servo brakes.

 

Afternoon NonComp

 

At one time BMW had a service advisory to not vacuum bleed the I-ABS system. No reason given as to the why-not.

 

In any case on the I-ABS system the electric servo pressure pump will do a fantastic job or power bleeding the apply side of the system with lots of flow volume and no lever/pedal pumping needed, and bleeding the control side is fairly easy as the top of the controller is easily accessed while working either the hand lever or foot pedal.

 

Once the Tupperware and fuel tank are removed the I-ABS system is really an easy system to bleed without the need of speed bleeders, need of a vacuum pump, or any extras except a way to keep the controller reservoirs full.

About the hardest part is opening and closing the small shrouded controller control side bleed fittings with a wrench with the fluid hose attached to the bleed nipple. Personally I just unplug the large wire plug going into the ABS unit in the bleed nipple vicinity then use duct tape to cover the exposed controller plug well. For a 30 second added task it really simplifies the controller bleed process.

 

There is also a BMW service bulletin on simplified bleeding of the I-ABS controller control side by eliminating bleeding of the controller cross-over fittings. BMW engineering says it’s no longer needed.

Personally I still bleed the crossovers as I am already there with equipment in hand.

 

[philbytx]

+1 to all that

 

quote

 

At one time BMW had a service advisory to not vacuum bleed the I-ABS system. No reason given as to the why-not.

 

In any case on the I-ABS system the electric servo pressure pump will do a fantastic job or power bleeding the apply side of the system with lots of flow volume and no lever/pedal pumping needed, and bleeding the control side is fairly easy as the top of the controller is easily accessed while working either the hand lever or foot pedal.

 

Once the Tupperware and fuel tank are removed the I-ABS system is really an easy system to bleed without the need of speed bleeders, need of a vacuum pump, or any extras except a way to keep the controller reservoirs full.

About the hardest part is opening and closing the small shrouded controller control side bleed fittings with a wrench with the fluid hose attached to the bleed nipple. Personally I just unplug the large wire plug going into the ABS unit in the bleed nipple vicinity then use duct tape to cover the exposed controller plug well. For a 30 second added task it really simplifies the controller bleed process.There is also a BMW service bulletin on simplified bleeding of the I-ABS controller control side by eliminating bleeding of the controller cross-over fittings. BMW engineering says it’s no longer needed.

Personally I still bleed the crossovers as I am already there with equipment in hand.

 

unquote

 

Once you've done it, the fear goes away

[ltljohn]

Chris,

What part of SEPA are you in? I am in the Quakertown area and can possibly lend a hand.

[ESokoloff]

..... You'll probably need to heat the check valve to remove it.....

 

Be careful here....

You (may) need to heat the thread-lock (to soften/release it) but do NOT over heat & melt the plastic hose!!!!!

DAMHIK

[cris nitro]

Chris,

What part of SEPA are you in? I am in the Quakertown area and can possibly lend a hand.

 

John; Have not started yet. I am going to do it a little at a time. Today I am going to take all the tupperware off and maybe the gas tank. Also going to inspect the brake pads to see if they need replacing before I call beemerboneyard for my parts. I have a friend with a K1200RS who is going to help me, but I appreciate the offer.

With all the great help here as well as the down load, we should be able to tackle it.

 

Thanks to all who responded.

 

Cris

[Jerry Duke]

Since no one has mentioned it yet, a word of caution. The clutch system uses a special mineral oil, NOT brake fluid.

[dirtrider]

Since no one has mentioned it yet, a word of caution. The clutch system uses a special mineral oil, NOT brake fluid.

 

Afternoon Jerry

 

Nobody’s mentioned it because the 1150 the OP has uses brake fluid in the clutch hydraulics. The mineral oil didn’t start until the 1200 series came out.

 

 

 

[cris nitro]

Thanks, dr. I was wondering about that. I haven't looked real close yet, but where can i find the the clutch bleeder?

[dirtrider]

Morning Cris

 

The clutch slave cylinder is on the rear or the trans (about in line with the center of the clutch). If you look at it closely you will see a remote bleeder hose coming out of it and running to the right hand side of the bike (about mid bike up high).

 

On that remote bleeder hose should be a factory fill check valve (kind of a black plastic barrel looking affair). To really bleed the clutch you usually need to unscrew that plastic barrel from the hose and throw it out, then install a common bleed screw in the end of the hose where that plastic barrel was removed from.

 

Some people try to heat the hose end to get the plastic check valve to unscrew. Personally I haven’t ever had to heat one (I worry about hose damage doing that) but hold the hose while using a pair of channel locks to remove the check valve. That pretty well chews the check valve outer surface up but I toss them out any how so no big deal.

 

[cris nitro]

Thanks, dr.

[kobukan]

Once you've done it, the fear goes away

Did a complete brake system flush on my 04 1150RT yesterday for my first time. Took a 100 mile ride today and all is well!

 

The fear is gone.

[cris nitro]

Got to work on it last night with my buddy. Got the tank off(need to remember to run the gas level down first!)and only had time to bleed the wheel circuts. Did not make the whole funnel/stopper thingy, but used a paper funnel held in tight to the opening, which worked great. Bled all the dark fluid out until I got a steady steam of clear. Worked really well. The only little problem I had was that the pump puts so much pressure on the slave, I got leaking fluid from the threads of the bleed screw. Washed it off and all is good.

 

Later this week I will do the control circuts, which I can do myself.

 

One last thing, I had to lightly heat the clutch check valve to soften the threads enough so I could loosen it. I bought a 10mm X 1.0 blled valve to replace the check valve. is that the correct size?

 

Thanks for everybodies help. Once you get under the tank and see it close up, it is not as complicated as it seems.

[AndyS]

"Did not make the whole funnel/stopper thingy, but used a paper funnel held in tight to the opening, which worked great. Bled all the dark fluid out until I got a steady steam of clear. Worked really well"

 

Hi Chris, I don't recommend this proceedure. Paper is a fibrous material and can actually put more crud into the system than maybe what might be removed.

Remember most papaer is made from wood. You would't want a wooden feel to your brakes!

I understand the funnel making process, but would suggest if you do it again, to use say a plastic bottle cut ot form a funnel.

 

Andy

[Boffin]

My fill funnel is a 6inch funnel with the end wrapped in self-amalgamating tape - the type used for hose repair - up to the diameter of the threads and then screwed in. I get a little leakage but not enough to be a concern - shop towels during the job and a good flush down with water once everything is sealed up agai and the job is a good'un.

 

Andy

[cris nitro]

Appreciate the concern on the paper funnel, but it was of those made for oil. It was fresh and I even used a new one when I switched from the front wheel to the rear wheel circut bleeding.

 

I believe it is all good, but if I do it again, I will make the real deal as this will save a pair of hands not having to hold the funnel.

Thanks!

[naysayer]

For what it's worth if you are taking off all the tupperware and tank you might as well take the fuel filter out of the tank and mount it on the side of the bike. then you can change your filter a little more often and probably not ever suffer a plugged filter on the road..... because you'll be able to change it, it won't fail

[clem]

I've used a cheap MityVac for bleeding with good results. Not sure how it will work on your system, though, with the servo brakes.

 

Afternoon NonComp

 

At one time BMW had a service advisory to not vacuum bleed the I-ABS system. No reason given as to the why-not.

 

In any case on the I-ABS system the electric servo pressure pump will do a fantastic job or power bleeding the apply side of the system with lots of flow volume and no lever/pedal pumping needed, and bleeding the control side is fairly easy as the top of the controller is easily accessed while working either the hand lever or foot pedal.

 

Once the Tupperware and fuel tank are removed the I-ABS system is really an easy system to bleed without the need of speed bleeders, need of a vacuum pump, or any extras except a way to keep the controller reservoirs full.

About the hardest part is opening and closing the small shrouded controller control side bleed fittings with a wrench with the fluid hose attached to the bleed nipple. Personally I just unplug the large wire plug going into the ABS unit in the bleed nipple vicinity then use duct tape to cover the exposed controller plug well. For a 30 second added task it really simplifies the controller bleed process.

 

There is also a BMW service bulletin on simplified bleeding of the I-ABS controller control side by eliminating bleeding of the controller cross-over fittings. BMW engineering says it’s no longer needed.

Personally I still bleed the crossovers as I am already there with equipment in hand.

 

Found the service bulletin in question:

 

https://www.bmwmc.net/catalog/34%20002%2006%20%28019%29%20-%20Brake%20fluid%20intervals.pdf

 

News to me. Thanks dirtrider.