Maintaining my new to me RT

[cali_beemer]

I just bought my 04RT the other night and I am debating on what to do to it right away for maintenace. The bike has 14k mile son it and had a 12k service done (I believe alst year). It had the brake flush done and the clutch flush as well as new brake pads. I figured I would immediately go get the brakes and clutch flushed. The right side vales seem to be ticking a bit so I figured I would adjust the valves and synch the throttle bodies. Anythign else I should be doing to this? It hasnt had a lot of miles put on in the last couple of years. I figured I will change all the fluids. Should I put in new spark plugs? new fuel filter?

 

What oil should I be using? I have always used the redline Heavy shockproff for the FD and tranny. Is that still a good choice? What avbout for the motor? should stick with Dino or go synthetic? I still have some 15/50 Mobil one synthetic left over form the Vstrom that I got at wally world. Any chance that works?

 

Any suggestions?

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

my 0.02 (looking at your post count you should be answering my questions imho )

 

if you are doing the wrenching (not so costly)

1/ change all the fluids (including brakes and clutch) and be done with it.

 

2/ check the spark plugs and air filter and poly belt... change if suspect.

 

3/the fuel filter is a bit tougher.... not a lot of miles but a lot of years... i would likely plan to do it in the not too distant future (and the bike has been sitting alot - could be plenty of water in the tank).

 

4/ too soon for synthetic oil - you bike is not broken in yet.

 

5/ there have been some issues about redline shockproof for tranny and fd - if you are the risk adverse type you might stay away from the stuff.

 

6/ verify the valves and balance TBs for sure - free! (other than time) who wants ticking valves?

 

7/ check the age of the tires - they might be well past it (5 or 6 years max i think is the recommendation)

 

good luck.

[BFish]

Once my 2004RT broke in (about 15k mi) i began using amsoil 20-50 syn in the engine. amsoil syn in the tranny (75-140) and amsoil syn in the FD (75-90) after the first dealer service. don't overfil the FD.

 

I'd go ahead and change all that out. pull the plugs and check them. they should be fine. BTW-i use the tool kit spark plug wrench when i mess with the plugs.

 

May want to take a look at the air filter. easy to do. put some tethers on the mirrors casings as well.

 

have fun. i love my 2004.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Ride it.

 

Maybe all the area riders should just meet for breakfast and discuss it between talking about great rides and routes?

[kmac]

All of this stuff is free, or cheap. And cheap insurance is always a good idea.

 

Adjust the valves=free..TB sync=free {if you have a manometer or other tester, cheap to make one}....Plugs=$26 if it is a single plug, $60 if it is a dual plug {not sure of years of the TP}

Air filter= easy to see, $22 if bad...Oil filter=$15, you have oil {mobile 1 is great i think} Brake flush= $10 for a Qt. and can be flushed by yourself...Trans and FD is only 2Qts of whatever oil you choose=$10 ea qt. {lucas 75w140 full syn is $10}

Fan belt= $10-15 at you local store...so $140 bucks worst case scenario and a weekend in the garage...sounds like really cheap insurance and a bit of fun. Piece of mind is worth 140 bucks

[philbytx]

Mobil1 15w50 (5qts from WallyWorld)

75w140 in Tranny (SuperTech from WallyWorld)

75w90 in FD (SuperTech from WallyWorld)

I use all the above in both my R1100R and R1150RT.

 

Note that Mobil supplies WallyWorld with Supertech products in the U.S.

 

Definitely take your time and do a completely anal valve job and TBS. Most dealers do NOT.....!

 

While you are at it, definitely put a new alternator belt on it.

Stripping the bike down and getting to know it will really help educate you about BMW's and, if you are half handy with a wrench, save a LOT of money on routine maintenance .

[cali_beemer]

Thanks guys. I had already planned on changing all the fluids. I was more curious if I should be replacing the spark plugs and fuel filter, belt.....etc. Stuff that normally isnt dues at this mileage but the age of the bike may justify. It also got new spark plugs at 12k miles but that was a year or so ago. I was alos curious about the oil. I had not heard of issues running redline heavy shockproof in the FD and tranny. What issue have there been? It has been a while since I have had a oilhead so I have to re-learn all this stuff. I figured it may be early for synthetic.

 

@Phil- are you using the synthetic stuff?

[philbytx]

Yes I are The Wallyworld SuperTech 75w90 is "semi-synthetic" the 75w140 "full synthetic" . And, IMHO, 14k is not too early for synthetic. I started using Mobil1 15w50 in my R1100R at 10k and it uses about a pint or so between changes. My R1150RT also had Mobil1 15w50 in it since 10k and it also uses only about a pint or so between changes. The good news for me is that my BMW cage also uses Mobil1 15w50 so I stock up at WallyWorld. I change my tranny fluids at every engine oil change, which is 6k. This more for preventative maintenance than anything else. Good to check the condition of the oils and plus it is cheap insurance.

 

BMW FD issues are pretty well documented on here but, AFAIAA, there is no CLEAR single cause for all of the failures. Also, BMW does not admit to having an issue with them.

Now, BMW specs the FD as 75w90 and the gearbox as 75w90 or 75w140.

Living in a hot climate (central TX), I went with the 75w140 in the gearbox when we moved down here from IL.

 

Your plugs should be fine....

 

 

 

[flars]

"...definitely put a new alternator belt on it..."

They have alternator belts???

JK - I did change mine about 90,000 miles ago.

Plugs - many of us go with the Autolites, cuz we are cheap bastiges, and the surging is often less when using them instead of the offishul plug.

[dan cata]

You know, you can change the belt before they break

 

I had the alternator belt on my GS for ~ 65k km's before it was done

[philbytx]

Yeah! Yeah!

Remember, the bike is new to him and previous maintenance quality unknown.

 

IMHO - Self-education and peace of mind are priceless .

[Linz]

My 2002 RT has done 22,000 miles but the belt looks just fine. Should it be changed due to age or are the miles sufficiently low enough, to extract another 10K or so?

Any opinions please?

 

Linz

[David13]

The new belt is $22.12? Belts and hoses deteriorate over time. It probably would be more fun to change it, rather than have it break.

dc

[cali_beemer]

Well, I just took my first ride on the bike since buying it. The valves definately need adjusting, I can hear them and thats not good. I rode over to my local BMW shop and I picked up the Clymer manual, an oil filter, some BMW gear oil for the tranny and for the final drive. I also got some crush washers. I just need to go over to the local wally world for oil. The guy there highly recomended not using synthetic yet becasue of my mileage. After 20k, he said is agreen light but for now he would prefer I stay regualar. So, I bought the regualar gear oil. I know its all more expensive at the BMW shop but I figured for my first change I will cough up the pesos and know I am getting all the right stuff per BMW. Then I can get the stuff through beemerboneyard or another online source. The biggest thing I noticed is that the tires are shot. One turn and I felt the tires slide. I got home and what I did not notice before is that there are cracks along the inside edges of the tread. There is still plenty of tread but they are still shot. It also has Metzler ME880's on it......I need some better handling tires on this than marathons. I will start looking for some road piliot 2's soon. I also realized I need to ditch the Saergent seat. I think its the low seat option and I am 6'1" tall. My leg room is tight even with the seat in the middle setting. If I go tall there becomes a gap at the front of the seat. I will place my order for a Russell soon. The shocks are a bit soft for my weight so I may try some Ohlins after Christmas. Otherise the handling, ride comfort, wind protection, suspension....were a joy after being on the Vstrom.

[cali_beemer]

Yeah! Yeah!

Remember, the bike is new to him and previous maintenance quality unknown.

 

 

Actually I have the paperwork for the servicing. In Oct 2007 it had the 12k service and annual service performed, new brake pads and a new front rotor.

[RickB]

Yeah! Yeah!

Remember, the bike is new to him and previous maintenance quality unknown.

 

 

Actually I have the paperwork for the servicing. In Oct 2007 it had the 12k service and annual service performed, new brake pads and a new front rotor.

 

12K service in Oct 2007 and now it has 14K on it? IMO, the best thing you can do for that bike is ride it... That bike needs to be ridden, and it's up to you.

[tallman]

Time wise, brake flush should be done.

Look at the plugs, depending on condition, keep/replace,

Oil, rie it and get a feel for consumption rate.

Once it stops, switch to syn.

Tires, DOT code will reveal age but 3 years at least for the age, perhaps even older.

Did the PO buy it from original owner?

It could be the tires are even older.

Belt should be fine.

I'd ride it just a bit as you have, then do a full service so baseline is current.

Run through the valves, TBS, and give it a name.

Best wishes.

[cali_beemer]

I am the third owner. The second owner never changed tires so they are atleast a couple years old. The tires are completely unsafe after closer inspection. They will need to be replaced ASAP and with the ticking sound of the valves, an adjustment is in its immediate future along with fluid changes. I may wait a bit for the alternator belt and plugs.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Cali

I changed from Roadsmarts to PR2s earlier this year. Very happy with that change. Seems to be a much higher mileage tire for my riding style at least. Picked up a nail after about 1400 miles and teh tire mic'd out with no wear when I took it back to Cycle Gear. Glad I bought the road hazard package....neighbors doing roofing in the area means lots of nails on the roads.

[tallman]

Belt is at 36k I think.

Plugs you can look at for any indication of poor spark/fouling etc.

I'd do that because bike sat before the valves & TBS.

Best wishes.

[philbytx]

Ahhh! But I did state maintenance "quality" unknown !

Some dealers don't do as good a job on valves/TBS's as would an anal owner !

 

As far as the V Belt goes, recommended change interval is 37k miles. However, being made of a material that also deteriorates with age/environment and some folks had them last many miles but others had them crap out early. YMMV but, given the cost, I'd do it just for an education and, more importantly, peace of mind. Then again, that's me and I AM entirely anal ;)/

Your tyres are just old and FYI, they actually deteriorate quicker if the bike isn't ridden as tyre compounds need tyre flexing.

And take a look at Conti Road Attacks. Fairly priced and an excellent all round tyre.

 

New pads and front rotor at 12k is extremely rare! Was there any reason given for this R&R on the work order?

 

 

 

[cali_beemer]

New pads and front rotor at 12k is extremely rare! Was there any reason given for this R&R on the work order?

 

 

 

No reason on the paperwork, but I was told the rotor was just out of tollerance. Brakes seem to be working fine. Very touchy after getting used to the crappy brakes of the Vstrom. The bigeest issue is the valves, since I can hear them. The TB synch seems like someone did a good job, the bike idles great.