Right turn signal not working..

[G-Rex]

Right side does not work. Hazards don't work. Left side does work.

 

It worked when I was testing out the bike, but quit when I was on my way home with it. The bike is an '04 R1150RT.

 

I have taken the fairings off for some other stuff, so I have easy access to the wiring and plugs. None of the wiring looks chafed or goofy. I've replaced the front bulb. I haven't taken the rear apart to verify that the bulb there is good. Would the rear bulb being burned out kill both signals? I don't recall a burned out bulb wiping out an entire side on my past bikes, but this *is* a BMW, which I'm new to.

 

It also has Kisan SignalMinder on it. I'm not sure if I even want to keep that on there, but it is a variable in the equation. Unfortunately, I was not given the factory part.

 

Any suggestions on something simple before I dig the multimeter out of the toolbox.

 

Thanks!

[flat_twin]

With those symptoms, I'd eliminate the signal minder. I'm pretty sure the original turn signal relay is a standard european style relay.

If you haven't figured it out yet, you have to remove two threaded knobs in the tail section to get the rear light housing out. It's a bit of a feel in the dark procedure.

[G-Rex]

I haven't pulled the tail section yet, but I will be doing that this evening to verify the bulb integrity first.

 

After that, I'll order a new relay.

 

BTW, I realized last night the hazards are working now, but only the left side. The whole right side circuit is still dead. Hoping that worst case, the factory relay fixes this problem.

[Boffin]

The factory turn-signal relay is not a standard euro-relay - it is a little box of electronic circuitry that costs about $115.

 

Andy

[tallman]

If PO replaced original w/Kissan he may still have that relay somewhwere.

Wouldn't hurt to ask.

Also, know anyone else with the RT?

A quick swap using their relay would verify.

If your Kissan is working, I'd keep it as it adds self cancel and running light features.

Their website can give you the cheat sheet to reprogram it.

[flat_twin]

The factory turn-signal relay is not a standard euro-relay - it is a little box of electronic circuitry that costs about $115.

 

Andy

 

Thanks for the correction Andy. I didn't know it was such an expensive item. Here's a link to a BMW parts recycler and used relay...

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/61312306979.html

[ChuckAZ]

I had the exact same problem a month ago. It was the relay. If you have the factory relay, take it out and pop it open. On one side you will see two big square resisters and I believe the top one will have a burnt spot on it. It is about a 3.00 resister if you want to replace it. Otherwise it is 115 to get a new one. This is why most places charge a core for these. They can be fixed.

[NonComp]

The SignalMinder is a great, plug and play replacement at half the price, and offers more functionality, such as adjustable turn signal cancellation, running lights and it eliminates the need to use the awkward OEM cancel button (push to start turn signal, push same button to cancel).

[bayne]

How can I determine if it's the relay or the handlebar switch?

 

I have the same problem, right signals don't work. All hazards work.

[NonComp]

The handlebar switch is relatively easy to get at. I used some electronic contact cleaner on mine and started working again. Do the switch first, then move on if that doesn't help.

[kmac]

The SignalMinder is a great, plug and play replacement at half the price, and offers more functionality, such as adjustable turn signal cancellation, running lights and it eliminates the need to use the awkward OEM cancel button (push to start turn signal, push same button to cancel).

 

If the factory relay is $115, where are you getting the signal minder for half of that? Everywhere i have looked the signal minder is $105. If i could find one for $57 i would be in. I dont buy used electronics for anything, but that is just my opinion.

[NonComp]

OK, $89.95 at Adventure Motostuf in NV. I bought mine 3 years ago and I can't remember exactly what I paid, but I thought it was something like $79 at the time.

[kmac]

[bayne]

The handlebar switch is relatively easy to get at. I used some electronic contact cleaner on mine and started working again. Do the switch first, then move on if that doesn't help.

 

I already used WD -40 on the switch. Didn't help. Thanks for the response, though.

 

Since the relay is $119 and the switch housing is $291, I'd like to be able to get a definitive answer to the problem before I start replacing parts.

 

 

[NonComp]

WD-40 is a lubricant, not an electrical contact cleaner.

 

I used something called Nutrol. The switch mechanism is pretty basic. You should be able to clean the contacts and get it working. Test with a multi-meter. I can't imagine why you would want to replace the entire switch housing.

[G-Rex]

Oops! I should have come in and updated this thread.

 

I emailed Kisan about the problem, and the answer I received from them verbatim was "It sounds like a channel is dead in the Signal Minder." Thanks for the troubleshooting help there gang. LOL

 

Anyway, the Signal Minder was toast. I replaced it with a factory relay, and all is well again.

 

 

 

 

[bayne]

.

 

I can't imagine why you would want to replace the entire switch housing.

 

 

The switch isn't sold as a seperate part from the housing.