An Opinion from the Brain trust requested

[LPR1100RT]

I need an opinion as to what happened on my ride today. 1st quick back ground.

R1100RT with 131000 on the clock did TBS last weekend. Today I took 175 mile trip. A big loop if u will. Its very hot in the North East 98 today. The 1st 100 miles were smooth or as this bike ever runs. Then I hit a wall of clutch and grab traffic for 20 miles. The temp gauge ran up to and once into the red zone. No real place to stop. When the traffic let up I ran the bike for about 5 miles she cooled a little but I didn't so I stopped for 15min for water and stretch my legs. When I got back on the bike she would barely start backfiring the whole time. I drove about a mile this way before stopping again. Now I was thing fuel starve/lean. So I check to see if maybe if the gas tank vac locked/open gas cap blow through vac lines. seemed fine tried to start same backfire running. Pull tupperware (what fun) I'm thinking fuel filter block now. I'm trying to think of a quick way of testing that so I pull the clips and the fuel lines on the fuel injectors. ( not the best or smartest I know) Turn the key to the on position and tons of fuel. So its not that big a block if it is a fuel block. Then for some dumb reason I think fuel mapping. I pull the cat computer plug (mine is orange like) and I it starts and runs fine. Sooooo 1st I know what ur thinking throw the plug away. I would except last year I ran without it for about a week and fuel mileage dropped big time. So my thought is maybe the O2 sensor failed in a strange way causing the computer to put the bike in a very lean condition. What does the brain trust think.

[11101110]

Does the 1100 have an intake air temp sensor?

 

I am thinking a high or off scale high temp would cause the brain to lean out the mixture leading to what you are experiencing. The air box could have gotten very hot after you shut down, and thus the temp sensor as well.

 

Very hot air is much less dense than cold air and thus has less oxygen. The ECU would then lean out the mixture. Get you a can of freeze spray or invert a can of duster (an Ice cube ould work as well) and next time this happens cool the temp sensor.

[LPR1100RT]

It does have a intake air sensor but after sitting for hours now if I go start the bike with CCP installed it won't idle. Shut it down and pull the plug. Runs fine.

[Anton Largiader]

If you pegged the temperature, you might have finished off a bad HES. I'd try to wiggle the wire to it while the engine is running; see if things start to break up. Maybe also toss some water on it.

[dirtrider]

Hi Lou

 

Your problem has all the ear marks of either hot fuel vapor lock condition or a possibly an 02 sensor acting up.

You would think that if a vapor lock condition it would have gone away later when it cooled off so that is probably not the issue.

Removing the CCP then having it run better points to one of the sensors that the motronic uses to determine fuel delivery. On the 1100 the major sensor that does that is the 02 sensor. The air temperature sensor is only used for minor fuel trimming open loop so that is probably not the cause. The oil engine temperature sensor could easily be the cause as that is used heavily for open loop fuel determination but removing the CCP should not have helped a lot if you have a failed engine oil temperature sensor.

My suggestion would be to reinstall the CCP then see how it runs, if still bad then disconnect the 02 sensor and ride it to see if that helps. If is still runs bad then look elsewhere. If it runs good with the 02 disconnected then either run open loop and see if you can live with the slightly lower fuel economy or install a universal 02 as those are way cheaper than the BMW replacement 02 sensor.

A bad HES could sure cause the bad running but it shouldn’t improve with the CCP removed so if your poor running problem goes away reliably with the CCP removed beat a path to the 02 sensor as your next test point.

 

[LPR1100RT]

Yes, This was my thought as well. I figured a bad HES would not show a huge improvement by pulling the CCP. Rode the bike 50 miles after pulling the CCP home and it seemed fine. Last night after the bike had been sitting 4 hours I restarted it again. Without the CCP ran fine. Shut it down reinstall the CCP and I can't get it to idle even with the fast Idle lever on. Pull the CCP back to normal. I hope to try a universal O2 tonight or tomorrow night. Thanks Guys

[JoeR]

Yes, This was my thought as well. I figured a bad HES would not show a huge improvement by pulling the CCP. Rode the bike 50 miles after pulling the CCP home and it seemed fine. Last night after the bike had been sitting 4 hours I restarted it again. Without the CCP ran fine. Shut it down reinstall the CCP and I can't get it to idle even with the fast Idle lever on. Pull the CCP back to normal. I hope to try a universal O2 tonight or tomorrow night. Thanks Guys

 

Can you give some information on what kind of O2 sensor you used, and where you got it?

[LPR1100RT]

I didn't get it yet but there are 2 that are recommended and are available from local auto parts stores. The Bosch 13474 and the Bosch 15729.

 

[JoeR]

I didn't get it yet but there are 2 that are recommended and are available from local auto parts stores. The Bosch 13474 and the Bosch 15729.

 

Ok, thanks.

[dirtrider]

Hi again Lou

 

As far as o2 sensors go most of the universals will work just fine. The main difference is in the heater circuit but that usually only effects warm up time, nothing important. The main thing you want to look at and be sure of is the tip length from the gasket down. That o2 goes into a rather small diameter pipe on the BMW oilhead so if the tip is too long there is always the chance it will hit or be to close to the opposite pipe wall.

Also keep in mind that most of the universal o2s use different wire colors than the oem so be sure to match only circuit wires and not by wire color.

 

[LPR1100RT]

Ok thanks I'll ck that I had looked at mine last night after it was cool and saw it was a 4 wire setup. 2 white a grey and a black. I figured all 4 wire setups work the same. I'll look into the circuit of the new one. Thanks

[Boffin]

If you look at the archive parts data sticky at the top of the forum you will see a cross-reference to a direct replacement made by NGK

O2 sensor: NGK OZA522-BM1. Direct plug'n'play replacement for the OEM (Bosch) O2 sensor. Comes with a bead of anti-seize on the threads.

 

Available from this UK supplier and I am sure from some US suppliers.

 

I would avoid using a universal sensor simply because of splicing the harness. The NGK referenced comes with the correct plug. The OEM Bosch sensor is also available from non-dealer sources for a similar price.

 

Andy

[David R]

 

Universal o2 sensor is not worth the aggravation to me.

 

I agree with dirtrider. With or with out CCP should make no difference with to HES or its wiring.

 

IF the o2 sensor is bad, the bike should idle when cold anyhow until it goes closed loop and uses the o2 sensor.

 

Twin spark? Does your tach act odd?

 

backfiring = not enough fuel? Air leaking in? Not enough spark?

 

I ASSume its backfiring at the intake.

 

Did you look at the spark plugs?

 

David

[LPR1100RT]

No its a single plug system. Didn't pull the plugs yet but when I got home from work today. I tried it again. It acts the same exact way. No CCP seems to run fine. Idle is a little higher then normal i eye ball 1300 on the tach. With the CCP will barely Idle with the high speed lever on.

[LPR1100RT]

Ok I've been really busy with work I haven't put the time I wanted into cking this out fully but I did try this tonight. I pulled the tupperware (again) lifted the fuel tank a little and got to the O2 connector Plug. Using my DMM ck'd resistance across the pins. White to white about 4 ohms. Gray to Black .3 Ohms maybe less a dead short.

Gray to ground the same .3 ohms. Of course that meant black was darn near the same .3 to .4 ohms. White to gray or black Mega ohms high. Going by Boschs info I found online. White wires are heater wires which i'm guessing 4 ohms was a heater load. Gray is ground and Black is the Signal wire. If that's the same meaning as the BMW O2 is seems my signal was dead to ground. I called autozone about a O2 sensor and I can buy it and return it if I don't install it. Which if I can I will do tomorrow at least to measure the resistance of a new unit.

[dirtrider]

Hi again Lou

 

Unfortunately using resistance to test an o2 sensor will not give you much of any usable data. Those things are basically voltage producers in relation to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas vs outside air oxygen. They send a varying voltage to the motronic that the o2 actually produces while operating in the hot exhaust gas.

The o2 just won’t do anything until hot so a cold test is basically useless.

You can sort of test one with a propane torch but even that won’t tell you if it is operating correctly it will only tell you that can make a static voltage. Basically another useless test.

An o2 can be somewhat tested while connected and in operation by monitoring the voltage swings between the black wire and ground. That is a somewhat valid test if the fuel control computer is receiving correct info from the other sensors, has gone into closed loop, and is operating properly. Problem is, when tested, a bad o2 can act the same way as a good one reacting to a fueling problem.

Bottom line, if the engine runs pretty decent with the o2 disconnected but acts up with it connected the odds are pretty good you have a bad o2 sensor.

 

[LPR1100RT]

"Bottom line, if the engine runs pretty decent with the o2 disconnected but acts up with it connected the odds are pretty good you have a bad o2 sensor."

 

So trying to place that within the problem i'm seeing. If I leave the O2 disconnected the bike should the same with or without the CCP installed? I haven't tried that yet.

 

Thanks Lou

[dirtrider]

"So trying to place that within the problem i'm seeing. If I leave the O2 disconnected the bike should the same with or without the CCP installed?"

 

Yea, that should point a pretty strong finger. With the o2 disconnected the CCP will only effect the basic fuel and spark mapping.

With the oem CCP installed it forces the motronic to attempt to go closed loop when it sees a somewhat valid hot o2 signal.

On the other hand on your 1100 with the ma 2.2 removing the o2 forces the system into open loop so it could care less what the o2 is doing or if is even there.

If you disconnect the o2 then run it with and without the CCP in place and see little difference in operation you have a pretty good idea the problem is o2 related. More than likely a bad o2 but don’t completely rule out water in the o2 connector or a problem in the o2 wiring or resistance in an o2 circuit connection.

Look for green corrosion on the o2 connector terminals or moisture in the o2 connector as I have seen both make a BMW oilhead run pretty screwy. If any of the o2 heater circuit voltage finds a way to taint the o2 black wire output circuit the engine will run like crap. Too much resistance or too much parasitic voltage will just cause the motronic to ignore the signal so not a big problem. On the other hand just a little transfer voltage or little added resistance can drive the system up a wall.

 

[DavidEBSmith]

I'm wondering about the likelihood of the O2 sensor going bad from overheating - considering it lives in an overheated environment - versus the possibility of the wiring to the sensor going bad (melting, fraying) from overheating?

[David R]

You can't hurt the o2 sensor, its made to run that way. IF the wires were laid on the exhaust they might melt, but otherwise it should be fine.

 

How does the bike run cold?

 

David

[LPR1100RT]

Sorry Guys I have been crushed at work all this week. I have not had another chance to look at it and it this point due to a family obligation Sunday looks like the earliest. I will ck the wiring then though.

[dirtrider]

Hi again Lou

 

Please don’t get the idea we are trying to hurry you along with this. In fact just the opposite, the more info you have in you troubleshooting library before confronting the bike the better chance you have of doing a complete diagnosis on things as you get to them. Most times some fore thought and planning beats the heck out of hammering along like a “mad man in a meat house”.

 

[LPR1100RT]

Well i didn't have much time this weekend but he's what I got.

I did these test in my garage with the fan I use for TB sync.

1st I found that the PO must have changed the O2 sensor before.

The wires were a melted looking mess right by the O2 sensor.

When I tested the pinouts before it was from the connector under the tank.

I cut through the goop separated the wires and leaving the bike on the stand re-attached all 4 wires. I know I can't leave it this way but I knew I could keep all 4 wires together but not touching each other in this static test.

With the CCP plug in and the bike cold it started and ran normally. When the HID

got to 3 bars or so the bike failed as before. It didn't want to run,backfired and stalled. I pulled the CCP the bike, started and ran fine. Right though 5 bars on the HID. I shutdown the bike re installed the CCP. No go, couldn't keep it running without really giving it throttle and even then it was very poor at best. So is the logic conclusion that the wires shorting together damaged the O2 sensor? I didn't get to re measure from the connector the resistance from pin to pin. I should have seen if there was a difference from my original test but I forgot to ck. I will do that but it may not happen till wed night.

[dirtrider]

Hi again lou

 

No telling what you have with the wires burnt up on that o2 sensor.

You really need to run the with/without CCP test with the o2 sensor completely disconnected.

If the bike runs good at 3 plus bars on the rid with the CCP in place but with the o2 disconnected you are fighting an o2 problem. That probably means a bad o2 or o2 wire circuit problem.

 

[LPR1100RT]

Right now it doesn't seem to run well at all with the CCP in place with 3 Bars on the HID. I guess I could try the CCP in place without the O2 sensor hooked up but I thought that the main sensor used when the CCP was in place was the O2 sensor. I just figured that with the CCP in place if it didn't see the O2 it would default to the same as not having the CCP in place.

[dirtrider]

Hi again lou

 

While the correct CCP tries to force the computer to use the o2 it isn’t mandatory. If no o2 present it will just defer to a somewhat decent open loop map using other sensors to control correct fueling. In fact the base fuel and spark map is the same with the stock CCP no matter if the o2 is in the system or not. It’s just how the different engine sensors are used when the o2 is active.

Definitely, I’ll say again definitely, try to run that engine until over 3 bars on the rid with the stock CCP in place but the o2 disconnected. If it runs decently with the CCP in place but the o2 disconnected that pretty well points to the o2 or o2 circuitry being the problem. Maybe not 100% but a very very very high probability the o2 is the problem.

 

[LPR1100RT]

Thanks Dirtrider

 

I may get a chance to try that tonight. The fan I use for TBS syncing has been getting a workout. LOL

[David R]

Dirtrider knows what he is talking about. Bike with out CCP is different than Bike with out o2 sensor. IF it runs over 3 bars with o2 sensor unhooked and CCP IN, then o2 sensor is your problem.

 

Looking good.

 

David

[LPR1100RT]

Now i'm even more confused. I disconnected O2 sensor and left CCP installed.

Started bike from cold all the way through 3 bars on the HID it seemed normal. At 4 bars the revs dropped to just above 1000k. It was pretty much at an eye balled 1350 before the drop. I kept popping the throttle here and there to see if it would start to back fire. Nothing. Even though the revs seemed a little low it was fine. So I killed the engine a while trying not to scorch my skin pugged in the O2. Since the engine was hot at 5 bars I fully expected it to not run. Well it ran just as it did moments earlier. Still a little slow in the idle but no back fire and i didn't have to fight it to keep it running like I just did the day before. I shut down the bike again and pulled the CCP. This time the Idle was higher I say just a little over 1100 eye balled on the tach. I travel for work for the next 2 days so it'll sit till then but where do I go from here. I read some where maybe on this board about resetting the computer pulling fuse 5 but I'm not sure that applies to ver 2.2 of the firmware/hardware or if that just clears a stored error anyway. I didn't try that. Of course I had no load against the bike as in you would in riding it but I didn't Sunday afternoon either.

[David R]

SO, it runs good hot with o2 sensor unplugged.....

 

Take it for a spin.

 

Don't burn your self, Its just a motorcycle.

 

Once the bike was hot and you plugged in the o2 sensor, it may have not heated up and the computer is thinking the sensor out to lunch. (not working)

 

You can pull the fuse for a minute then put it back in. I twist the throttle twice. I don't know if it helps or not.

 

Pulling the CCP or unhooking the o2 sensor may need the motronic reset.

[dirtrider]

Hi again Lou

 

The hot engine idle RPM changing isn’t a big deal. Remember the o2 sensor tries to keep the idle fuel air mixture pretty lean, it basically shoots for about 14.7:1. With the o2 removed the idle can richen up a little as it goes to the base map for guidance then trims that using the other engine sensors. Actually the 1350 was on the high side with the just above 1100 more in line where it should be. There really isn’t much long term learned fuel trim or learned tps on your motronic 2.2 system so nothing to really reset.

 

As Dave said go ride it, that should tell the story. As of now it sure points to a bad o2 sensor or something in the o2 circuitry between the o2 sensor and the o2 connector plug.

 

[chrisz]

How does one test the O2 sensor?

[David R]

How does one test the O2 sensor?

 

I use an oscilloscope. You can use a propane torch and volt meter, or they tell me you can use a volt meter while its in operation. Do a search.

 

David

[LPR1100RT]

Hey Guys I'm back in town and planning to go at this again tonight.

[dirtrider]

How does one test the O2 sensor?

 

Hi Chrisz

 

Testing a narrow band o2 sensor for proper operation and voltage response time can be a bit difficult especially if you don’t have a proper scanner or scope or if trying to test on an engine that has a questionable fuel computer control system or other engine mechanical malfunction.

As mentioned above there is a simple propane torch test but that type of static testing is pretty useless and a rather poor way to test an o2 sensor. That type of test only shows the o2 “can” produce simple voltage at temperature in response to the torch heat and combustion. Unfortunately it won’t show a lazy o2 or show operational cross count voltage response time, or show linear response rate. Basically it shows the o2 “could” work but can’t confirm it would or won’t work in actual engine usage.

The good news in all of this is it is fairly easy to test a “good or proper functioning” narrow band o2 sensor using a high-impedance voltmeter on the vehicle while driving down the road. If you know the values and cross counts that a good o2 produces on your particular vehicle it is quite easy to verify that is happening. The difficult part is trying to diagnose a bad or poorly functioning o2 using the same testing criteria. So bottom line is, it is fairly easy to verify your o2 is good and functioning properly but rather difficult to prove it isn’t. Having a good or new o2 sensor to substitute with your original is a good way to find out if your present o2 is lazy, non functional, or not performing up to par.

 

[LPR1100RT]

This is getting old. I also feel bad because you guys are trying to help me out but my work schedule is not cooperating I'm not responding in a timely fashion. Although I could really use riding the bike to work instead of the cage. Ok during tonights events we add more variables and solve nothing. Bought new O2 sensor on way home from work (ran late) Bosch 13474 it doesn't have the same BMW connector so I did a cut splice and crimp to the BMW end. I decided to pull the left side tupperware off before heating up bike and in the processes dropped the very bottom tank screw somewhere in the bike. Can't find it looked for 45 min gave up. Next after checking everything else I noticed the the little sliver cap that "was" on the outside of the right TB isn't there nor can I find that either. Now I've lost almost 2 hours. I pull the vacuum lines off the TB's and attach my Twinmax figuring that if my previous TB sync was with a bad O2 I may need to re do it. I have the tupperware off anyway (-minus 1 screw) I ck TPS voltage for the heck of it. It's sitting at .370. I figure that's close enough I don't touch it. CCP installed I start the bike. All is normal rev's are up a little but not crazy after I shut off High Speed lever. At 4 bars on the HID it falls apart, tach is under a grand and she doesn't want to run. If i hold some throttle on it will run but I almost as soon as I let go it stalls out. Worse than 3 days ago. While still hot, but shut off, I disconnect O2 leaving the CCP installed I restart the bike. It runs but not anywhere near what it was like before this all happened 2 Mondays ago. That day up until the bike got hot it ran so smooth the best in months. I digress. Back to now. The twinmax shows a slight lean to left . I play with the right side throttle cable till its over zero (or i should say at max sensitivity it vibrates over zero) A combo of that and the BBS I get the rev's up round 1100. Idles better. Not perfect but better. I did try and put the palm of my hand over the missing silver cap area from the right side TB and noticed that the Twinmax did move a little. So I guess it could be sucking air there. The BSS screws are about 1/2 to 1/2+ diff left to right. Threw seats on went for a ride I have a new surge at 3500 in 3rd gear. Not happy about. Also dumping the throttle from almost any position is causing popping out of the exhaust. Side note while riding (about 25 miles) I went down a fairly straight road which is always empty except at night the sport bike guys race down it. I had just come down that road at various rpms stopping at the end to survey how the bike was riding when 4 guys on sport bikes pulled up. Without the tupperware on they couldn't figure out what I was riding. These guys, much younger than I, had at first thought I was making some sort of custom that wasn't road legal yet. Anyway got back home and for the heck of it (again) replugged in the O2. It may have been a little better than before but not ridable. It would now sort of idle but under a grand. So there you have tonights lack of any real forward progress. Tupperware still off bike and still down 1 screw one silver TB cap and one newly bought hacked up and unplugged O2 sensor.

[dirtrider]

Hi again Lou

 

This is getting a bit complicated isn’t it?

Your last post above added more confusion and conflict so it is difficult to guide you based on that info alone.

So I’m going to suggest you kind of start over when you get a little more time and work through things one at a time with noted results after each iteration.

 

First thing first, try to get that cap replaced or at least glue something over the exposed shaft on the housing to prevent it sucking air. If it is sucking air along the shaft that will make it difficult to tell if you are making progress in other areas.

 

Next, remove the CCP and disconnect the o2 sensor, then get the bike hot, then verify the TBI balance at idle and at 2000-3000 rpms. This is a must as you need a clean balanced intake system before moving on to the CCP or o2 sensor influence. Don’t worry as the CCP or o2 sensor have no direct effect on TBI balance. TBI balance is strictly an air flow balance through the TBIs issue. If using your twin Max first verify the thing is working correctly. Hook both vacuum lines to one side TBI using a small Tee to verify both read the “exact” same from one TBI. If they don’t find out why or move on to a simple water manometer. Important, you need to positively trust your TBI balance as accurate.

 

After you are sure and absolute your basics are set correctly then go ride the bike with both the CCP and o2 sensor disconnected. Ride it far enough to assure yourself the bike is performing correctly. This will give you a “known” starting point and level platform to start your further testing. This is important to have a known performance base to begin with so don’t shortcut it.

 

Once the above is done and you are sure your engine is performing correctly with both the CCP and o2 disconnected re install the CCP then ride the bike for while again. This will again prove or disprove your other fuel and engine systems are perforating up to par. If it isn’t running correctly in this stage of the testing your problem sure isn’t with the o2 sensor or it’s wiring circuitry.

 

If your engine is performing correctly in the above tests then re connect your new o2 sensor and do another ride test. Somewhere along the line you should be able to define when/where your engine operation degrades.

 

OK, now with saying the above a few other tid bits to consider.

 

I believe that Bosch 13474 is not a universal o2 sensor. I’m pretty sure it was used in a production setting as a GM rear o2 with some usage as a front o2. That would probably mean it didn’t come with a wiring diagram? Are you “sure” you have the proper circuits in that Bosch 13474 matched up to your BMW OEM o2 wire circuits? Wire color alone isn’t always positive or the same.

You also say you used splice and crimp to mate the wires? You didn’t solder the connections did you? If so cut the solder connections out and use only crimps or butt connectors. Soldered connections can stop proper ambient air reaching the o2 sensor reaction palate.

Use a volt meter or test light with the engine running to make sure the heater circuit on your BMW is supplying current to the o2 sensors heating element. A cold o2 can really foul the idle speed or idle quality as the o2 heats and cools then drops in and out of usable output.

 

Do the above then post back with your findings as that can help us try to better understand your problem. What you have for a problem on that bike is difficult to figure out with hands on and darn near impossible from afar.

It will work out you just have to be persistent and pervasive.

 

[LPR1100RT]

Dirtrider, Thank you for taking the time to go through this. This morning I decided to throw caution to the wind and ride it into the office. CCP installed no O2 connected. 1st never throw caution to the wind while riding a bike. I found too many times I was paying attention to what the bike was doing not my usual head on a swivel. Anyway when cold the bike ran like a champ no issues. After 3 bars on the HID Idle speed at a traffic light was low steady but low 1K exactly.

As I rode the bike felt better again. Response was quick and aggressive. The next opportunity to idle for a while came with the HID at 5 bars. Idle was normal at just bit over 1100 I would eye ball at. It did seem to have a slight miss or miss fire/stumble every 10 to 15 seconds. That may have always been there i'm just listening a little closer. It still has the popping out of the exhaust any drop of the throttle and yes a 3400~3600 rpm surge not crazy but def there. I was wondering if the plugs could have been damaged at all during the periods of high heat and lean fuel. I didn't ck them I just thought of it this morning. They're autolites so very cheap to replace. Ok well that's where its at. I just want to trust this bike again and right now I don't feel so. Its like a watch that stops working one time you just know that you can trust that it won't make you late. Thanks Guys

[dirtrider]

Hi again Lou

 

I seriously doubt you could have run that bike lean or hot enough to damage the spark plugs. But that doesn’t mean you couldn’t have a plug with a piece or carbon or other unrelated damage. As you say those Autolites are cheap as dirt so why not install a new set just to take that area out of the equation. At the very least you will have some spares.

 

That idle miss or skip might be nothing at all or due to that slight air leak in the TBI with the shaft cover missing or not at all related.

Same with the surge, those bikes did have a surge in the 3-4 k range with some being worse than others. Problem is, a lot of riders never noticed it but once they tuned into it could duplicate it every time and in some cases it would become an obsession to remove it.

 

That dropped throttle post firing in the exhaust is again somewhat normal and will show up more on rich dropped throttle condition like no o2 sensor or skewed TBI balance or not completely closing the throttle on deceleration. Nothing to really worry about at this time as a lot of 1100 BMWs did it. Once all is right with the way it runs in other areas then go after the dropped throttle post firing if it is still there. If you have an aftermarket muffler it will probably never go completely away.

 

I wouldn’t let a little erratic idle or 3-4 k surge bother me at this time in your diagnostic process.

Just get the bike to run down the road and more importantly return you home with confidence then start looking for the nit pick areas.

 

[LPR1100RT]

I believe that Bosch 13474 is not a universal o2 sensor. I’m pretty sure it was used in a production setting as a GM rear o2 with some usage as a front o2. That would probably mean it didn’t come with a wiring diagram? Are you “sure” you have the proper circuits in that Bosch 13474 matched up to your BMW OEM o2 wire circuits? Wire color alone isn’t always positive or the same.

You also say you used splice and crimp to mate the wires? You didn’t solder the connections did you? If so cut the solder connections out and use only crimps or butt connectors. Soldered connections can stop proper ambient air reaching the o2 sensor reaction palate.

 

Thanks Dirtrider, I will get new plugs on my home 2ea its a no brainer. Also I have to come up with something to cover that TB side with no workable ideas yet. Last the O2 sensor. I picked the 13474 from the cross ref list posted on this site. The wire colors from what I can tell did line up with the 2 white wires being heater gray as a ground and Black a signal. I did want to ask about your statement about solder and affecting ambient air. I used butt connectors but I trying to figure out how a soldered connector 10" down stream of the sensor would effect the sensor? One area that I really goofed on was when I yanked the old O2 sensor (which seemed to work fine up until the melt down) since was a replacement maybe it had a part number on it but alas it was thrown away. Thanks for your time, Lou

[AndyS]

Hi Lou, I've lost the plot a bit here.

Have you fixed your problem or do you still have it?

What is the problem now?

 

Andy

[Boffin]

The O2 sensor gets its reference from the external air - it breathes down the harness, so it is easy to block the air passage rendering the O2 unserviceable - precisely why I always recommend avoiding 'universal' sensors. The OEM sensor is available from non-BMW dealers at non-BMW prices and the NGK version I used also comes with the BMW connector.

Andy

[dirtrider]

Hi Andy

 

Nothing wrong with universal o2 sensors, tens and tens of thousands of universal o2 sensors have been used successfully for many years if the automotive field in the U.S here with few if any issues. Like anything else due care, proper handling, and proper instillation is a must. The universals at least here in the U.S. come with good directions and proper connection terminals or connectors some even encase the attachment terminals in a weather proof sealed box that precludes all the elements.

I have used universal o2 sensors for many years and have yet to have one universal o2 failure or one fail to operate correctly.

While I don’t know this for a fact I have serious doubts a person could find an OEM narrow band BMW boxer o2 sensor in the U.S. here for anywhere near the price of a common universal o2.

 

[LPR1100RT]

AndyS, While things seem to be better. My guess is I still have an O2 sensor problem. To boil down what Dirtrider helped me to discover was that the bike really does seem to run ok with the CCP installed just not with the O2 sensor plugged in. I had gotten the bike to run (rich mind you) without the CCP installed. I didn't realize that you didn't need the O2 plugged in to still use the CCP. I had always tied the two together. I tried to use a replacement O2 from autozone last night and didn't get any better results. I have a few other item nagging things (as Dirtrider correctly put it) but over all it runs fine now. With the CCP and No O2. I'd like to get the O2 back and maybe as Andy Long has stated I should just go and get a OEM version on the O2 with the connector on it.