New owner of 04 K1200 GT- need your help

[moto44]

Hi, ..bought recently this bike. New to BMW bikes, I have couple things I would like to ask the more experienced riders...

Bike is 04 K1200 GT with 19K miles…. I am about 6’ 2’’ tall rider

1) After starting the bike smokes quite a bit, then it goes away… when opening the throttle the RPMs first drop a bit before going up… this bothers me sometimes when engine is not warm as the engine stalls sometimes. Even right after the start, when still on stand it will die quite often when throttle opened slowly..

What could be the problem…. Throttle cable?, should I decarbonize?

2) Volume of gas tank… even when running about 40miles with reserve light on and then stopping for refill – it only takes about 4.5 gallons…. It should take 5.55 gallons according to manual. why?

Also the gas gauge is so weird…not linear !!

3) I am 6’2’’ tall : currently have the seat in higher position, bars risers and backs are installed and do not have much space on the bike.

Wind it hitting me basically below the helmet (around my neck). I am thinking of larger (largest available) windshield I can get (any recommendations?) and peg lowering kit.

2 questions here: How likely it is I will be scraping road with lower pegs? What will happen and is it dangerous? Could I crash? Please bear with me I never experienced this… . Thanks for your thoughts on the fit… should I try to adjust bike in different way to accommodate for larger rider? (anyone wants to trade larger windshield for stock? )

4) I have ridden on the bike about 1000 miles and have not done any maintenance since I bought from previous owner: I am a good mechanic with cars and plan to do it myself…already bought the Clymer BMW manual:

What are the major things I should not skip (except checking all the fluids and changing oil which I plan to do) ?

Many thanks for patience and your advice..

 

[cali_beemer]

The answer to #1 is that yes its normal. Most K bikes smoke after sitting on initial startup. Some do it more and some do it less. Its more annoying than anything (and emarising in a crowd). Its not hurting anything. Keep it on the centerstand and this goes away.

 

As for your fuel economy/range, well, the GT sucks for fuel economy so you arent gonna go far on a tank. Its one of the major drawbacks. My RS and GT did the same and is one of the influencing reasons I sold them. I believe there is a trick you can do to the fuel inlet on drilling a hole to get more gas in. I know my GS had the same issue. It seems strange BMW has this issue as it seems to affect more than just the GT/RS bikes.

 

As for the windshield, I never liked the GT windshield. If your looking for a bike that gives complete upper protection then the first gen GT probably wasnt your best choice. I am sure someone will disagree with that but thats my opinion. I prefered the RS windshield becasue it was smaller and gave more airflow. On the freeway this aditional air helps support the body. The GT's windshield removes that element and makes the rider support it. There are bigger windhields if you are just looking for a barn door. I would receomend the Airflow windshield. Probably as good as you will get on the GT. Keep in mind the GT is built off the RS which isnt meant for large wind protection. Most items on the GT are pure afterthought on making the RS something it wasnt meant to be. These bikes arent meant to be big weather protectors as they are more on the sport side. IMO, most heavy touring oriented items like bar risers and big windshields really take away form the performance of these bikes. I would be willing to bet Tallman is the first to debate that statement......LOL

 

Regualar maintenace isnt too hard but repairts can be a PITA. Once you take the skin off, there is alot of crap under there. Small hands are a pre-requisite. However, changing the air filter (under the tank) and oil and final drive and tranny are all realtively easy. Taking the tank off is alot easier than it sounds. Its more of PITA to take the bodywork off anytime you want to get under there. The brakes will be an issue. Most will not tackle this one themselves. You must be cautious with the servo system. Most people I know tend to take it to the dealer for this.

 

I cant comment on the peg lowering. I would be inclined to think it has enough room. I never had an issue scraping pegs on my RS or GT. If you are scraping on a regualr basis I would remove it. I dont think is safe if it is happing alot. If you grind the pegs and catch the lip[ of a pothole bad things can happen. Not as big of a deal on the track but on the street we.....its up to you. I have grinded pegs occaionaly. My ST1300 did it all the time without a lowering kit. I hate the feeling myself. My Vstrom was draggin oin the corner the other day.

[tallman]

If you're scraping pegs try MYRP first.

How many mile 'til your reserve light comes on?

Big people can't hide behind a K bike screen.

Aeroflow gives best all around w/Cee Bailey's + 4 or 6" an option, BUT those can stress the mounts.

Ride it for a while longer and see.

I have th eRS screen on mine most of the time.

[Dennis Andress]

The K1200 RS/GT are a special breed. I don't think I have ridden a GT, but I put a few miles on a RS.

 

For comparisons sake, I'm 6'4"

 

I rode the bike with the seat in the upper position for the a few months after I bought it. Then, I discovered that the lower position is just as comfortable, didn't cramp my legs, and the bike handles better.

 

Lose the bar backs and risers so you can stretch out. It's a long bike, there's plenty of room. The seating position works best when you lean into the wind, supporting your body with your legs and lower back. In that regard, a smaller windshield will help. If the wind hits lower on your body it won't hit your helmet as bad.

 

The engine stalling is not a good thing. Decabonizing sounds a bit harsh, a long ride at high speed would be a better approach. But, I don't think it'll fix the problem. The usual suspects would be spark plug cables, a disconnected vacuum line on one of the throttle bodies, or a vacuum leak where the intake tubes attach to the head.

 

I scrapped my pegs too. Then I learned to move my body towards the inside of the curve. "Bitting the mirror" is a good description. The idea is to use your body to change the center of gravity, which mean the bike doesn't need to lean as much. Make sure the shock preload is correct too. Tire pressures should be higher than the owner's manual says; 38 front, 40 rear is a good place to start.

 

Make sure the fuel filter is changed at least once a year. The EVO brake system has two circuits; one between the master cylinder and the EVO pump, the other between the pump and the calipers. The fluid in the caliper circuits needs to be changed annually. The master cyclinder side should be changed every two years. It's not difficult work, but it takes time. There are good instructions around here somewhere... (but I can't remember where...)

[cali_beemer]

I believe BMW had some ECU issues that affected some of the 04 GT's. It was an engine stalling issue that plagued those with the compaints. It makes me wonder if yours is one of them. It seems to be a big gripe over on the ibmw forum site. The other issue with the ECU's is a surge in power upon decelleration. BMW was replacing ECU's for affected bikes but as noted on the ibmw forum, they have eliminated that program. Alot of guys are pissed they have to pay to replace defective ECU's BMW is aware of. On the plus side, the newest ECU is suppose to be alot better. On the downside, its one heck of an expensive part. However, there are alot of things to do before making that assumption.

[tallman]

Dennis,

I run 40/42 on Z 6's and get excellent results.

YMMV, but the suggestion to up the tire air pressures is valid.

The ECU issue was right after starting, cold, bike would cut out with rapid twisti of r hand.

When warm, not a problem.

Although there might be exceptions to that, I think if there is a problem when warm it isn't the ECU and might be related to other issues.

Best wishes.

[Dennis Andress]

Yes, BMW has issues, with ECUs and other things. Dropping the cash for an ECU only to find that the bike runs differently, but still isn't right, is a major bummer. Fix the things the ECU depends on: Plug wires, no vacuum leaks, clean throttle bodies and TPS, correctly adjusted TPS, and all the sensors. Then reach deep for an ECU if things are still not right.

 

None of this is easy, or cheap, but Laney and I ran two of these things for a lot of years. This is the way we learned to stay on top of things.

[hmeiseles]

I had a 2003 k1200RS for many years and put about 78k miles on the bike. If you leave the bike on the center stand it will stop smoking. If you leave it on the side stand make sure you leave it in gear since they have been known to roll off the side stand.

 

The pegs are adjustable make sure that they are in the upper position and there is not a peg lowering kit on the bike. I am 6'1" and found without bar backs the bars were in the right position for me and let me stretch out.

 

As for the windshield, I believe it is electronically adjustable on the GT, make sure it is in a position that is comfortable.

 

Normally I was getting about 180 miles to the gas warning light which should leave you about 1 gallon left in the tank. K-Bikes are gas station friendly compared to R-Bikes. K-bikes love gas stations. The engine will rev forever. Don't be afraid to use a few more revs. The bike will do at least 100 mph in third gear without any vibration.

 

Take the bike for a good run and that should clean out any stuff in the engine. Make sure the bike has been serviced properly, clean air and fuel filter. In the 7 years I owned by RS I would have the valves checked and they never changed. So ride the C__p out of it and have some fun.

[cali_beemer]

 

Normally I was getting about 180 miles to the gas warning light which should leave you about 1 gallon left in the tank. K-Bikes are gas station friendly compared to R-Bikes.

 

My 02 RS was lucky if it made it to 150 miles before it hit the low fuel light. I suppose some if it could be the way you ride it. The fuel ecomy on my RS's could fluctuate alot.

[moto44]

How many mile 'til your reserve light comes on?

Big people can't hide behind a K bike screen.

Aeroflow gives best all around w/Cee Bailey's + 4 or 6" an option, BUT those can stress the mounts.

Ride it for a while longer and see.

I have th eRS screen on mine most of the time.

 

tallman .. thanks for your input..

I have never looked at miles. I just judge by how much I am filling in. And last time, I thought I am already running of fumes, and I was finaly able to put al least 5 gallons even (to the lower lip of the tank mouth).. so I guess that is acceptable but, manual still says 5.5 !

 

As the cover behing the winscreen goes.... I am 6'2'' I imagine there must be taller riders on these bikes.

I have saddle in upper position, that is how I bought it. So I will put it lower this weekend but that will leave me even less space for legs which are already now crowded (since I am considering the lowering peggs); so I am not sure what is worse? wind buffeting or less space for legs....

If this 04 K bike does not provide adequate protection- what would be be the bikes to check (that give better- YEAR ROUND- procection.... does not have to be only BMW..... thanks... Pete

[moto44]

The ECU issue was right after starting, cold, bike would cut out with rapid twisti of r hand.

When warm, not a problem.

quote]

 

Tallman, that is exactly my problem. When cold, that's when is realy noticeable. After some 10 minutes is OK....

Occasionaly I notice, when getting of the red light, openning a throttle a bit first results in slight drop of RPS and then goes up. So sometimes I have to give it more gas or open a bit faster to overcome this drop of RPMs; otherwise it could stall.

[Aluminum_Butt]

Windshield: I'm 6'4" and have the same issue. I went with an Aeroflow. I wish it were about an inch taller. I don't get a lot of buffeting, but it sure is loud in my helmet. If I duck down slightly, it gets quiet.

 

Cee Baileys used to make them for the first generation GT, but I'm not sure they do now.

 

I tend to agree with those who say get rid of the barbacks. It requires that you use more core and leg strength, and rely less on your arms to hold yourself in position, but you should really be doing that anyway. I find the riding position to be really comfortable.

 

 

Maintenance: I am not a good mechanic, yet I've leared to do all of the maintenance except valve adjustments, which I think I'll leave to someone who IS a good mechanic.

 

I have the Clymer manual, but I've had much better luck with resources on this board and on the web. Some examples:

 

Clutch bleed for an RT, but it's the same: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=10190&page=2

 

A list of how-to's, some more usefule than others: http://pirateslair.net/Howto.htm

 

Very detailed instructions on gas tank removal and filter replacement, as well as other procedures: http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/k1200rs/index.html

 

Very detailed instructions on doing the brake service is here: http://www.k-bikes.com/ubbthreads/downloadattachments.php?attach_id=5757?Cat=

 

And one tip I've learned from here that may or may not be in the articles above. When doing the clutch and brake fluid, the fluid tends to squirt out. You can minimize that by putting a utility knife blade in the reservoir while doing the work.

 

As for scraping, I'm definitely on the husky side. I tend to drag my center stand before my pegs.

[cali_beemer]

I tend to agree with those who say get rid of the barbacks. It requires that you use more core and leg strength, and rely less on your arms to hold yourself in position, but you should really be doing that anyway. I find the riding position to be really comfortable.

 

If all else fails try ot put a set of RS bars on. The handlebars on my GT were horrible. Stock, it was bad, risers made it worse. The higher up the worse it got. I bought anohter RS after my GT and bliss was found again. The RS bars are at a different angle and this makes a huge difference for me. The bar position of an 02 in high position (the RS bars are actually adjustable) were near perfect for me. Of cours this is why I have been making my claim for people to try the RS before buying a GT. On paper the GT seems better but the smaller windshield, and different bars made the difference for me. I never found the limited travel of the GT's electronic adjustable windscreen to do much.

 

 

Most people that couldnt find comfort in the RS never rode it long enough. It takes time to get used to it.

[hANNAbONE]

oN tHE sputtering bike -

 

Dump a bottle of Techron in the tank and go out and rev the dew outta it in 2nd and 3rd gear...leave it in that gear for a good long while as you get near the redline - you ain't gonna hurt it...and you won't be breaking many speed limits out in the country. [[not that we'd tell about anyway]]

 

Use the best fuel you can dump in it too...do not skimp on the fuel.!

[H96669]

My bike, a 2003 K1200RS was doing exactly the same thing as yours,took 5+ Minutes to warm up enough to stop sputtering/stalling on acceleration. They all do that said the PO....well no they don't.....took me 5 minutes to fix. The answer: adjust the throttle cable and reset the TPS. Too much play in the cable screws up the signals somewhere, also makes for jerky speed changes.

 

Scraping the pegs....not a problem, that's why they have those sacrificial nubs, just put Michelin PR2s on your bike and enjoy.

[cali_beemer]

. The answer: adjust the throttle cable and reset the TPS. Too much play in the cable screws up the signals somewhere, also makes for jerky speed changes.

 

 

I can see a TPS reset and cleaning helping but I dont follow how too much play in the cable affects this. If there is too much slack the idle, it will rest up against the idle stop and there is a return spring to ensure it goes back to idle even if there isnt any tension on the return cable.

[pbharvey]

Replace the plastic fuel line connectors with the new metal ones. The 2004 GT is a terrific bike if I do say so myself.

[Rogue_Trader]

As an owner of a 2003 K1200GT, I can add a little.

 

Regarding 1)the smoking issue, I noticed mine did that, but not often. Then, I tied it to leaving it on the kickstand for lengthy periods...if I park it on the centerstand, no smoke. On the cold start stall, I noticed if I babied the throttle for 10-15 seconds (revving it slightly), it would warm up enough not to stall. This was a minor inconvenience, so I never had it looked into.

 

Concerning 3), I am 6'2 as well, and with the stock screen, the wind hits me right around the upper chest/face. Huge wind noise. I got a Cee Bailey's screen (no longer available for this model year), which worked great for a couple of years until a pothole broke it from its moorings. CAUTION: if you use a taller windscreen, you risk stressing the windshield actuator bar past its limits...that is what happened to mine. Had to special order from Germany. Not sure if they are available anymore. If you want to hear more about this, let me know.

 

 

[cali_beemer]

On the cold start stall, I noticed if I babied the throttle for 10-15 seconds (revving it slightly), it would warm up enough not to stall. This was a minor inconvenience, so I never had it looked into.

 

 

 

My K bikes never needed that. No fuel injection system should need this to be done. It would seem something is not right or not properly adjusted. Of course I also never understood why the RS/GT idle would like to bounce. A fuel injection system should be able to maintain a perfectly steady idle.

[H96669]

. The answer: adjust the throttle cable and reset the TPS. Too much play in the cable screws up the signals somewhere, also makes for jerky speed changes.

 

 

I can see a TPS reset and cleaning helping but I dont follow how too much play in the cable affects this. If there is too much slack the idle, it will rest up against the idle stop and there is a return spring to ensure it goes back to idle even if there isnt any tension on the return cable.

 

Fine at idle, but not on cold acceleration with a slack throttle cable.That fixed my bike and another one anyway.