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How special is 100k miles?


blackyam

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Not wanting to hijack the thread "R1100RT Right TB air leak," I'm starting a new one. In that thread,

 

140,000+ miles.

 

At that mileage it is almost certain that the shaft is badly worn. Pretty easy to confirm...just remove the TB...an easy job.

 

My question is, after our bikes hit 100k miles, is there anything special/extra we need to do in terms of preventative maintenance? Things that need replacing? Things that need extra attention? &c.? Or do we continue with scheduled maintenance as usual? TIA.

 

---John.

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A 100,000 miles on one machine is VERY different if it's YOU that has put them miles on it, vs. some others who may have started, and you've just continued.....I for one am pushing the 200,000 mark on the K.

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My question is, after our bikes hit 100k miles, is there anything special/extra we need to do

---John.

 

I took a picture of my odometer and posted it FWIW :rofl:

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Not really, it’s the ongoing maintenance over time that’s the key. The 100K mark is just another day in the life of a boxer.

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I would definitely replace the driveshaft, the paralever bearings, the fuel lines, the brake lines, and the hall effect sensor. I'd consider replacing the plug wires and the coil too. I might kick around the idea of replacing the big bearing in the final drive, but I'd probably just buy a spare and keep it in a saddlebag on long trips.

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I would definitely replace the driveshaft, the paralever bearings, the fuel lines, the brake lines, and the hall effect sensor. I'd consider replacing the plug wires and the coil too. I might kick around the idea of replacing the big bearing in the final drive, but I'd probably just buy a spare and keep it in a saddlebag on long trips.

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I think it is proportional to how far from home you usually ride. Me and my RT are quite often several days from the home garage. With that in mind, I tend to replace a few things just for peace of mind. Notables have been front wheel bearings, clutch cable, front fork seals. Preventive maintenance.

 

Anytime I have an occasion to pull electric connections apart to clean and add di-electric grease I do.

 

When the bike reaches 150K I will probably start thinking about the clutch, transmission input bearing, hall effect sensor, second FD rebuild, and paralever bearings.

 

Funny thing, but I have worn out a couple of sets of foot peg rubbers and hand grips.

 

And BTW I took an odo photo at 100K also. My wife thought it was silly but she thinks that about a lot of my actions. :-)

 

SCOTTIE

 

 

 

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I might kick around the idea of replacing the big bearing in the final drive, but I'd probably just buy a spare and keep it in a saddlebag on long trips.

 

If you figure out a way to replace that FD bearing beside the road please make a video. I'll buy a copy.

 

SCOTTIE

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I can't find it right find it right now, but there is a thread on advrider where a guy (a mechanic) did it at a campsite at a rally. He heated the new bearing by putting it on one of the heads while the engine was running. Sneaky!

 

In any event, if I had a bearing, I'll bet I could find a machne shop to replace it for me pretty easily.

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I can't find it right find it right now, but there is a thread on advrider where a guy (a mechanic) did it at a campsite at a rally. He heated the new bearing by putting it on one of the heads while the engine was running. Sneaky!

 

In any event, if I had a bearing, I'll bet I could find a machne shop to replace it for me pretty easily.

 

Sorry, I'm a sceptic....If you changed that bearing in that manner, I'd give it only a few thousand miles MAX to survive before it gave up. What are you going to use to check preloads and are you going to cary the dial gauge indicator and shims in your saddlebag too?

 

Andy

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I can't find it right find it right now, but there is a thread on advrider where a guy (a mechanic) did it at a campsite at a rally. He heated the new bearing by putting it on one of the heads while the engine was running. Sneaky!

 

In any event, if I had a bearing, I'll bet I could find a machne shop to replace it for me pretty easily.

 

Taking your bike to any old machine shop for FD repair would be a bad bet. If you had ever replaced a crown bearing (I have) you would understand.

 

SCOTTIE

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I haven't, but I read about it on the internet. Pull the old one, drop on the new one. What could go wrong? Of course I'm gonna use the old shims. I just trying to get home from a trip.

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I took a picture of my odometer and posted it FWIW :rofl:

 

Bill: You've encouraged me to take a picture of my odometer; see the attached jpeg file. :-)

 

I would definitely replace the driveshaft, the paralever bearings, the fuel lines, the brake lines, and the hall effect sensor. I'd consider replacing the plug wires and the coil too. I might kick around the idea of replacing the big bearing in the final drive, but I'd probably just buy a spare and keep it in a saddlebag on long trips.

 

Jim: I don't DIY. All my service is done at a dealer. I certainly can't afford to do everything you've indicated at one time. How would you prioritize your to-do list?

 

I think it is proportional to how far from home you usually ride. Me and my RT are quite often several days from the home garage. With that in mind, I tend to replace a few things just for peace of mind. Notables have been front wheel bearings, clutch cable, front fork seals. Preventive maintenance.

 

Anytime I have an occasion to pull electric connections apart to clean and add di-electric grease I do.

 

When the bike reaches 150K I will probably start thinking about the clutch, transmission input bearing, hall effect sensor, second FD rebuild, and paralever bearings.

 

SCOTTIE: How would your to-do list be incorporated with Jim Moore's and prioritized?

 

Thanks, everyone.

 

---John.

5069.jpg.fa7228f72b5e268641cfcb4cd5f1215f.jpg

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Man, that's a good quesion. I'm not sure I'd do any of it if I weren't doing it myself. It would be damn expensive to do it that way. You may be better off waiting until things break, then having them fixed.

 

As a note, I couldn't do anything mechanical before I bought my RT. These bikes are very easy to work if you decide you want to start doing some stuff by yourself. The internet is full of info on how to do it. Go to a tech day, buy a few hundred dollars worth of tools, and the next thing you know you have an engine hanging from the rafters and a final drive in the freezer.

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Not wanting to hijack the thread "R1100RT Right TB air leak," I'm starting a new one. In that thread,

 

140,000+ miles.

 

At that mileage it is almost certain that the shaft is badly worn. Pretty easy to confirm...just remove the TB...an easy job.

 

My question is, after our bikes hit 100k miles, is there anything special/extra we need to do in terms of preventative maintenance? Things that need replacing? Things that need extra attention? &c.? Or do we continue with scheduled maintenance as usual? TIA.

 

---John.

 

Nice odo pic! Congrats! Now go bake a cake or have a cold one or celebrate in whatever fashion you feel is appropriate. And, I agree with Paul. Continue regular maintenance and fix what breaks. That's it!!

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I am up to 113K. I did take the transmission out and inspect everything. Splines look like new. Clutch wear was good, I did not remove the disc. Drive shaft good, Cleaned and repacked swing arm and para lever bearings. Removed throw out bearing, cleaned and repacked. It really needed it, a few more miles and I would have had trouble. Disassembled transmission. Looked good, put back together. I also lubed the front wheel bearings with a hypodermic needle and some good waterproof red grease.

 

Change all fluids and just keep riding.

 

I just returned from a 1800 mile trip Zero problems. Gas, and 1/2 qt oil. I got as high as 50 Mpg.

 

Whata bike!

 

David

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Man, that's a good quesion. I'm not sure I'd do any of it if I weren't doing it myself. It would be damn expensive to do it that way. You may be better off waiting until things break, then having them fixed.

 

It sounds like these repairs may be pretty dear, even if not done all at once, if not DIY. How likely are these parts to fail if one follows the scheduled maintenance? If these parts are bound to fail, would it be better for me to throw money at the inevitable repairs as they come up or to put that money towards a new bike instead? What is the collective wisdom on this?

 

Nice odo pic! Congrats! Now go bake a cake or have a cold one or celebrate in whatever fashion you feel is appropriate.

 

Thanks. Attached is a new one from today. :-)

 

And, I agree with Paul. Continue regular maintenance and fix what breaks. That's it!!

 

So, perhaps these repairs aren't inevitable. Cool. Thanks, y'all.

 

---John.

5071.jpg.dcca0c98a5f76e95c56df789824e4d95.jpg

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I chose to inspect all those parts instead of just replacing them. I saw em and now I have confidence to ride the bike where ever and when ever I want. Before I did all that, I was "concerned" about all the stuff I read here. Total cost to me was $100.00 because I did it all my self.

 

David

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