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What type of engine oil


carson1873

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I recommend the type that meets the specification listed in your owners handbook. Beyond that you are into religious territory.

 

Andy

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What type of engine oil is used by those on the forum for an R1150RT (2002 model)?

Regards

 

All sorts!

 

+1 on what Andy says (by the way, the Manual for the 1150 says: Mineral or synthetic multi-grade oils, API quality classes up to SH) (in the riders manual it also gives a chart with which of the multi-grades you might like to select, based on air temperature conditions in the regions you intend to ride).

 

....and you're already into fanatical territory.

 

Andy

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Oh gawd, here we go again...

 

I think we need some coding in this web site that whenever someone post a, “What oil should I use?” question it automatically redirects them to a, “Any oil you want” reply.

 

Carson1873 – Sorry to sound so exasperated, but this subject has been done over and over again hundreds of times. And what makes it worse is that there is no correct answer to the question. Not even close. None of us have oil analysis labs in our basements, nor have ever applied any scientific method to determine what is best.

 

Just pick one, based on the color of the bottle or something, and put it in the bike.

 

But welcome to the board anyway!

 

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Well, I am biting :rofl:

 

Given that you are in the Land of Oz and probably have some high temps going for you, I would use a 20w50 synthetic :thumbsup:

 

There, I've done it....have at it y'all ;)

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Bottle color is good -- I like silver.

 

I agree with silver, but not too shiny. The reflection off the container on a sunny day can impede your vision when aiming for the oil fill hole.

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Dare I enter this potential fray? Sure! Dino or semi-synthetic of recommended rating and viscosity. Pure synthetic does not absorb any water (e.g.; condensation) and then allow the moisture to be expelled through the exhaust. Pure synthetic will not allow the absorbtion and expultion allowing the condensation to remain inside your engine and ...... rust.

 

Okay, geaux 4 it.

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ShovelStrokeEd
Dare I enter this potential fray? Sure! Dino or semi-synthetic of recommended rating and viscosity. Pure synthetic does not absorb any water (e.g.; condensation) and then allow the moisture to be expelled through the exhaust. Pure synthetic will not allow the absorbtion and expultion allowing the condensation to remain inside your engine and ...... rust.

 

Okay, geaux 4 it.

 

Which matters not at all, I'm not even sure that is true. Operating oil temperatures on an engine that has been running under even mild load for more than 15 minutes or so, exceed the boiling point of water. Said water, and it is minimal at best, will then turn to steam and be expelled through the crankcase breather.

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........... And what makes it worse is that there is no correct answer to the question.............

 

See, you are sooooooo wrong already! The oil I use is the best, and the correct answer....... :grin:

 

 

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4wheeldog
Dare I enter this potential fray? Sure! Dino or semi-synthetic of recommended rating and viscosity. Pure synthetic does not absorb any water (e.g.; condensation) and then allow the moisture to be expelled through the exhaust. Pure synthetic will not allow the absorption and expultion allowing the condensation to remain inside your engine and ...... rust.

 

Okay, geaux 4 it.

 

Huh......I have never seen any evidence that the way the molecules were formed had anything to do with how hygroscopic the product might be. If you have some lab data to support this, I would be interested.

When oil does mix with water, it tends to be a mechanical process, much like making biscuits. Thus the milky look to oil with water beaten in.

The real issue with water in your crankcase is that it will form acids, if the TBN (Total base number....A measure of the acid neutralizing capacity) is not sufficient. Synthetic oils tend to have plenty of TBN in the mix.

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ElevenFifty

Having never responded to an oil thread, I feel that I should be allowed to state my personal preference ... Shell Rotella T Synthetic. I really like the sexy new blue gallon container.

 

I am concerned that is gets a little too slick at times resulting in a slight leak around my filler cap. Don't mean to hijack an oil thread (heaven forbid), but maybe I should use some kind of additive to thicken it up a bit??? ;~)

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outpost22

My preference is oil contained in plastic bottles. But mostly I buy the oil that comes in 5 quart recyclable plastic containers.

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But seriously...I know same guys who run air-cooled Porsches on the track and found that their oil temps ran about 55 degrees cooler when they used synthetic. I think that's a good reason to run synth in an oil head. I have heard the arguments that you get oil leaks with synth, and in fact I did have that problem with a Ferrari I once owned, but they're notorious for leaks. I'm still running dyno oil in my 1150R but will probably switch over soon.

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Agreed, I suggest running synthetic in all Porsche and Ferrari motorcycles on the track.

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Let's back up for a minute...

 

You're supposed to put oil in the engine???

 

Don't they do that at the factory???

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4wheeldog
Let's back up for a minute...

 

You're supposed to put oil in the engine???

 

Don't they do that at the factory???

 

Yes

BUT.......

Is it the very best choice of oils?

That is the question.........

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Since we are on the topic of oil, I recently purchased a motorcycle that had the oil changed (unknown synthetic) as part of a 12K dealer service.

What kind of oil should I use to top off? Is it important to use the same brand of synthetic?

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Rinkydink

I use the slick kind...

 

I subscribe to the "any oil is better than no oil theory"...it has worked very well for me so far.

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John Ranalletta

From a reply on ducatimonster.org forum:

 

Does it really matter, for the eleventyeventysheventyqueventyzillabillonth time, you should use a specific mixture of ostridge lard, astro lube, and extra extra VIRGIN olive oil (italian of course).

 

On that board, read posts by Georgecls. He seems to know his (oil) stuff.

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Unhofliche_Gesundheit

Hi Carson.

 

some key items for consideration in your selection of oil... (these items may or may not be "facts" )

 

1/ the oilhead bmw has a dry clutch like a car - so you dont need fancy (read more expensive) motorcycle oil that has extra stuff for the wet clutch.

 

2/ when selecting 'automobile' (see 1 above) oil you need to be careful as the newer oil spec is SL (or often SM)- but this is not appropriate for your bike - which needs the older spec 'up to SH'. i have not seen SH so i shop for SG.

 

3/ there is no agreement as to whether one should use synthetic or not. synthetic offers advantages clearly- but are the advantages sufficient to warrent the extra cost?

advantages include greater viscosity range, lower friction (better gas milage), longer life, less subject to sludging, and more.

 

4/ the robustness of the engine is one of the better attributes of the oilhead - it seems to be fairly tough regardless of oil used and will / should last the life of the bike. so non-synthetic is likely fine.

 

5/ i use synthetic because my spreadsheet shows that the added cost is minimal compared to the other crazy money i dump into this pastime. i plan to keep the bike a while - seems like cheap insurance.

 

6/ seems to be some sort of agreement here (but not consensus !)that 'mobile 1 synthetic 10-50 silver cap' does the trick.

so i use this - purchased on visits to good ol' usa - where everything is vastly less expensive than in more socialist canada. i go 13000 kms between oil changes to partially defray the added cost.

 

7/ some knowledgeable people have done a deep dive - gotten manufacturers specifications for brakedown of the contents of the 'additive packs' of the various oils available and compared them to see what is best what is less, etc. you may wish to do search on this forum - go back 3 years - you will have lots to read - however there seems to be no 'bottom-line ' one size-fits all answer to what is the 'best oil to use'.

 

let us know what you decide!!

 

ps my avatar picture was taken at Uluru)

 

 

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What type of engine oil is used by those on the forum for an R1150RT (2002 model)?

Regards

 

Well, After all this advice, what have you done?

Andy

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carson1873

To those who offered tangible advice, thanks. I still can't ride my bike at the moment as my licence is suspended for another 4 months but that doesn't stop asking for info/advice, isn't that what forums are for?

Regards Carson

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Well, I am biting :rofl:

 

Given that you are in the Land of Oz and probably have some high temps going for you, I would use a 20w50 synthetic :thumbsup:

 

There, I've done it....have at it y'all ;)

 

:thumbsup: What Phil said!

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4wheeldog
Did anyone ask about FD oil yet? :rofl:

 

You NEED to put oil in there too??? :dopeslap:

 

It depends on how long you expect it to last..........Mine went 90 miles @ 80mph. YMMV. ;)

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What ever you use, make sure you hold the bottle upside down so the oil doesn't run out onto the ground. Remember, you are upside down... Or are we upside down???

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