drswift Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 You're taking a tight corner, hit a dip in the road, and CRUNCH!!! You leave part of your fairing and some paint off the belly pan, plus the corner of your break pedal. Link to comment
marcopolo Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Yikes. Glad it wasn't worse Dave. Link to comment
OoPEZoO Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 been there, done that......same result A new set of shocks fixed her right up. Now I'm back to only dragging the center stand and footpeg feelers Link to comment
Rocer Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Socks too (not to mention boots). We call that the "shocks and socks" maintenance schedule. Link to comment
Bullett Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Yikes, Dave! So, what kind of shocks are you going to get? Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 All unexpected, no previous obvious problems or signs, just let go? The stockers are rebuildable and revalvable. Ben Link to comment
philbytx Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 What setting you using on your pre-load??? Link to comment
drswift Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share Posted April 27, 2010 Phil: Barely any - five clicks. Bullet: Replacement shocks are pretty pricey. I might see what kind of deals are at the MOA rally. Last year Ohlin had free installation, and their tech staff on hand to balancing. Plus Roegon has no sales tax (for now). Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Everybody endlessly fusses over pricey aftermarket shocks instead of the primary issues which are spring rate and geometry. Link to comment
drswift Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 .. the primary issues which are spring rate and geometry. And where do you buy these? Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 .. the primary issues which are spring rate and geometry. And where do you buy these? Good question. Spring rate can be lowered using a grinder and bathroom scale (not safe unless you understand the issues). Removing length raises the rate but has other consequences that can be bad. Finding springs with higher rate deserves the attention of the wise persons of this forum. Geometry is mostly a matter of making sure by measurement that the bike suspension concept is met unless you have chosen otherwise. Ben Link to comment
mbelectric Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Since my bathroom scale is wrong, and my grinder needs a disc, I'll stand behind Dave and get some Ohlins at the MOA rally... MB> Link to comment
philbytx Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Are the shocks "bouncy" with too much rebound? It may be that you just need to check the preload adjuster. You should feel the preload adjuster load up as you progressively tighten it down. If it doesn't, do the "jack oil" charge on it to get the pre-load adjustment back (do a search on the board). If your pre-load is working fine, try running the pre-load down to over half way, especially if you are hooning around . Link to comment
drswift Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 Are the shocks "bouncy" with too much rebound? If your pre-load is working fine, try running the pre-load down to over half way, especially if you are hooning around . Phil: The rear seems fine even when I crank it most of the way down for riding two-up. It's the front that keeps bottoming out. (The bike is a 57K miles). Link to comment
philbytx Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Well that answers THAT Looks like replacement shocks are in your future If you want to "save a few bob" might be worth your while to look on Ebay or do a google search to find a low mileage front hanging around? Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Since my bathroom scale is wrong, and my grinder needs a disc, I'll stand behind Dave and get some Ohlins at the MOA rally... MB> For $10 you can buy a new bathroom scale or nearly $3000 for a pair of Ohlins shocks. Although it is unlikely that this bit of math eluded you when you made your little joke, I think something else just might have eluded your grasp: you use the scale to track spring rate reduction as you trim the spring... so accuracy means zilch. Link to comment
marcopolo Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Since my bathroom scale is wrong, and my grinder needs a disc, I'll stand behind Dave and get some Ohlins at the MOA rally... MB> For $10 you can buy a new bathroom scale or nearly $3000 for a pair of Ohlins shocks. I got a set of Ohlins to replace my ESA struts at last summer's MOA rally. The total cost, including installation and and set up by Ohlins USA reps, was just under $2,000 (and that was in $CDN). Link to comment
drswift Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 My big debate now is whether to hold of on the Ohlins and put that kind of money towards a newer bike (1200RT) after this fall. By then I'll probably have 75K miles. I got a line on some slightly used shocks from Barry in Marin, so that is a practical option. I might do that anyway for the big summer ride, especially since I'll have my back seat navigator for most of the three week trip. Link to comment
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