R1100RT Front Shock Replacement,

[twowheelsonly]

Hi,

 

I am wanting to change my factory shocks, I just got my rebuilt Ohlins so now I would like to change them, my concern is with the top bolt for the front shock mount appears that a lot of parts need to be removed to gain access to allow access to the nut.. I plan on removing the L & R Tupperware and Sharkfin, I am concerned about the fuel tank and problems with fuel related leakage if I have to remove the gas tank, not sure if I need to be concerned about the process but any tips would be much appreciated!

 

Thank you!

Stewart

twowheelsonly

Stewart

[Selden]

I had my rear shock rebuilt this past winter, and need to do the front, but I have the same concerns. I don't see how the front shock can be pulled without removing the gas tank, but would love to be proved wrong. If you do have to pull the gas tank, keep in mind that it's a lot easier to work with if it's empty or nearly so.

[twowheelsonly]

I had my rear shock rebuilt this past winter, and need to do the front, but I have the same concerns. I don't see how the front shock can be pulled without removing the gas tank, but would love to be proved wrong. If you do have to pull the gas tank, keep in mind that it's a lot easier to work with if it's empty or nearly so.

 

Well I hope we get some good info from all these knowledgeable riders.. I am hoping I don't have to remove the tank as I don't want to disturb the gas lines and connectors as I am planning on a 7 to 9K ride starting at the end of the month and I don't want any leaks, not sure where I read it on the forum seems like the R1100 has a cheap or poorly designed quick disconnect system and I am worried it will need to be replaced if I have to remove the tank, if I only have to move the tank upwards to gain access to the shock nut that would be good news..

Edited April 14, 2010 by twowheelsonly

[Boffin]

It is possible to access the top fittings by removing the tank retaining bolt and just pulling the tank rearwards a few inches, without disturbing the hoses. It is however, not much extra effort to remove the tank. Remove the hose clamps and pull the hose off the hard lines, keeping the tank mounting bolt very handy. If the hose you pull off starts to leak plenty of fuel, plug it with the bolt - it is a perfect fit. The other hose will not leak more than a dribble.

 

edit: The R1100 does not have quick-disconnects, the dodgy plastic QDs are on the 1150.

 

Andy

Edited April 14, 2010 by Boffin

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

re; It is possible to access the top fittings by removing the tank retaining bolt and just pulling the tank rearwards a few inches, without disturbing the hoses

 

 

+1

[AndyS]

It is possible to access the top fittings by removing the tank retaining bolt and just pulling the tank rearwards a few inches, without disturbing the hoses.Andy

 

+1

I'm sure It is easy.

Tupperware off

Remove rear tank bolt

Lift and slide tank to the rear keeping and eye on fuel pipes, breather pipes and gauging wire.

Support front wheel. Ensure bike is secure.

Front shock nut exposed. Undo nut and don't lose any of the shims or spacers.

Undo and remove lower shock bolt. Remove shock.

Refitting reverse proceedure.

Top nut torque = 47Nm

Lower bolt = 50Nm

 

Andy

[outpost22]

re; It is possible to access the top fittings by removing the tank retaining bolt and just pulling the tank rearwards a few inches, without disturbing the hoses

 

 

+1

 

+2, but if your fuel filter needs changing and you do remove the tank to do the shock work, it's a good time to do the filter too.

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

dont forget to transfer the lower rubber spacer off the top of the old shock and transfer it to the new shock.

 

this is the spacer that goes between the top of the shock and the bottom of the hole in the frame.

 

i didnt know to do this - i didn't realize that the black rubber ring on the top of the shock was not part of the shock...-

only later having a beer, sitting back enjoying feeling of a completed job 'well done' - my buddy noticed that the rubber spacer was a spacer

 

this rubber spacer is now living in a plastic bag taped to the instructions that came with the shock - will get installed in 10 years when the rebuild is due.... :^(

 

 

 

 

[Selden]

Revisiting this topic, I just pulled the bodywork, and slid the tank back, revealing the top of the shock shaft and the 14mm nut that secures it to the frame. For the record, this is an Ohlins shock, and I have put ~20,000 miles on it since purchasing the bike in February, 2008. As far as I am aware, the previous owner never had the Ohlins shocks serviced, so the front shock must be well past recommended service interval. I had the rear rebuilt last winter (it was quite worn inside).

 

However, I'm having a devil of a time breaking the nut loose. My instinct is to lock a pair of Vice Grips on the flats of the shaft, above the threads, then try and loosen the nut. I tried a crescent wrench on the flats, but didn't feel confident that it was going to hold against the considerable amount of force needed to break the nut loose. I have also sprayed the threads with WD40, just in case there is any corrosion. Since there are rubber bits in this vicinity, and BMW doesn't recommend using thread locker, I assume there is none, and that heat shouldn't be used.

 

Before buggering anything, I'm looking for hints from those who have gone before. It's only January 4th, so I've got plenty of time to wait for an answer.

[Jerry Duke]

Use an open end wrench on the top and a box wrench on the nut.

[NonComp]

The stock shock has an allen keyed head on the bolt. Isn't there one on the Ohlins?

[Selden]

The stock shock has an allen keyed head on the bolt. Isn't there one on the Ohlins?

The Ohlins have two flats machined on the top of the shaft. I couldn't see anything wrong with my planned methodology, so I slipped a 2-foot piece of tubing over the 14mm wrench, and pushed -- it loosened up quite nicely, with no damage to the threads, although I chased them with a 10 x 1.25mm die anyway. After that, the only additional glitch was to remove the Stebel Magnum horn that I had installed, as there wasn't enough room to pull the shock.

 

Off to the rebuilder tomorrow.

[kmac]

There should be no thread locker, but that looks like a lock nut. Not a nylock but a steel lock nut like they use on an exhaust manifold. That nut will feel tight all the way until the top of the bolt tip.

 

Like jerry i recommend useing an open end wrench on the flat surfaces of the stem bolt.

 

It should be about 6mm wrench since the bolt is 8mm I believe and the flats are cut into that. You may want to check an SAE wrench size just as a reference of which fits better a metric or aN SAE.

[kmac]

oops, didnt see the second page....sorry for the unneccesary post.

[Eckhard Grohe]

I ended up cutting off the ring end, bending and thinning the open end of a 1 1/8" wrench to hold the top of the shock body because the flats invariably rounded off when I wanted to tighten the nut.

 

 

[NonComp]

I ended up cutting off the ring end, bending and thinning the open end of a 1 1/8" wrench to hold the top of the shock body because the flats invariably rounded off when I wanted to tighten the nut.

Essentially, the same thing happened to me when I tried to tighten the stock shock. I stripped the allen key socket.

[Trobinson]

On 1/4/2011 at 4:09 PM, Selden said:

The Ohlins have two flats machined on the top of the shaft. I couldn't see anything wrong with my planned methodology, so I slipped a 2-foot piece of tubing over the 14mm wrench, and pushed -- it loosened up quite nicely, with no damage to the threads, although I chased them with a 10 x 1.25mm die anyway. After that, the only additional glitch was to remove the Stebel Magnum horn that I had installed, as there wasn't enough room to pull the shock.

 

Off to the rebuilder tomorrow.

Selden,

 

Who did you use for the rebuild?  I'm thinking about having the rear done on mine.  I still need to replace the front so I'm looking for that.  Since I have ohlins in the rear I'd like to go with them if possible.

 

Tom

[dirtrider]

4 minutes ago, Trobinson said:

Selden,

 

Who did you use for the rebuild?  I'm thinking about having the rear done on mine.  I still need to replace the front so I'm looking for that.  Since I have ohlins in the rear I'd like to go with them if possible.

 

Tom

 

Afternoon Tom

 

You might want to post a new thread of your own as this thread is  almost 10 years old (you dredged up a real antique thread).