Some polls on ABS startup job and L/H cam chain tensioner upgrade

[dan cata]

Hi all,

 

Being new to me, my 1100 RT (44k km, '95) has the rattle on startup and on decellerations... Also, the ABS sometimes does not initialise, because of a "weak" battery. (I am talking about this mod: http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ABS-II_low_voltage_modification/index.shtml)

 

On my GS, I have added 4 crush washers under each spring (and new springs) in each cam chain tensioner. But the RT I really like... and I am thinking on buying the L/H side from rubber chicken racing garage. (or I could build myself if I knew the dimensions )

 

Please give reasons on your choice.

 

Thanks,

Dan.

[David R]

tensioner is a worth while upgrade. No problems with the abs on my 2000 RT

 

David

[AndyS]

Hi all,

 

Being new to me, my 1100 RT (44k km, '95) has the rattle on startup and on decellerations...)

 

Please give reasons on your choice.

 

Thanks,

Dan.

 

Hi Dan,

I fitted the new tensioner because I hated the 'diesel' style rattle that the bike had on start up. Small children would point! grown adults would laugh!

No, This is meant to be a top notch bike - not a tractor. The tensioner worked a treat.

However, what you mention sounds a little different. Clatttering on the overun. At this point the tensioner should have the oil pressure it needs to do the business. The conversion would be worth doing, but I wouldn't gaurentee the noise free overun.

Andy

[dan cata]

Hi all,

 

Being new to me, my 1100 RT (44k km, '95) has the rattle on startup and on decellerations...)

 

Please give reasons on your choice.

 

Thanks,

Dan.

 

Hi Dan,

I fitted the new tensioner because I hated the 'diesel' style rattle that the bike had on start up. Small children would point! grown adults would laugh!

No, This is meant to be a top notch bike - not a tractor. The tensioner worked a treat.

However, what you mention sounds a little different. Clatttering on the overun. At this point the tensioner should have the oil pressure it needs to do the business. The conversion would be worth doing, but I wouldn't gaurentee the noise free overun.

Andy

 

The thing is my RT rattles while idleing... The gs did not

 

The GS had 114k km, and the RT only has 44k km now... Does it go away by age?

[Paul Mihalka]

tensioner is a worth while upgrade. No problems with the abs on my 2000 RT

 

David

Ditto on my '99 R1100RT I had for over 170K miles. The ABS light flasing went completely away when I installed a Odyssey battery.

[snod]

I've upgraded the cam chain tensioner on the 2 R1100RT's I own. I have not had problems with the low voltage/ABS issue. I always wait a few seconds after turning the key on before I crank the starter.

[outpost22]

tensioner is a worth while upgrade. No problems with the abs on my 2000 RT

 

David

Ditto on my '99 R1100RT I had for over 170K miles. The ABS light flasing went completely away when I installed a Odyssey battery.

 

What Paul said. Just put a decent battery in the bike. My ABS flashed all the time with the lousy BMW Gel Battery. Never have had an issue with the Odyssey.

[dan cata]

Odissey it's going to be then....

 

Meanwhile, I will try to add some washers under the tensioner springs... and see if that solves it

[David R]

If you are going to take the time to take out the tensioner, just put in the right one. It makes a world of difference. Washers will not stop it from draining back the oil. Its only a hunnert bucks.

 

David

[WaywardSon]

Is the rattle from the cam chain tensioner anything more than a nuisance or is it a sign of problems to come down the road?

[philbytx]

Some say it is a nuisance but it COULD become an issue!

If it wasn't an issue, BMW wouldn't have changed the design...Right???

[Boffin]

The rattle is the cam-chain slapping around, not something I wanted on my bike. The spring tension is not the problem - these are hydraulic tensioners and the spring has almost no effect in comparison to the oil pressure.

 

Andy

[dan cata]

The rattle is the cam-chain slapping around, not something I wanted on my bike. The spring tension is not the problem - these are hydraulic tensioners and the spring has almost no effect in comparison to the oil pressure.

 

Andy

 

I can only hear it at idle speed... Should I be worried? What's the solution?

[Boffin]

The rattle is the cam-chain slapping around, not something I wanted on my bike. The spring tension is not the problem - these are hydraulic tensioners and the spring has almost no effect in comparison to the oil pressure.

 

Andy

 

I can only hear it at idle speed... Should I be worried? What's the solution?

 

I was concerned so I fitted the later (R1200RT) camchain tensioner, which is a direct replacement. BMW re-engineered this so that it cannot leak-down.

 

Andy

[dan cata]

The rattle is the cam-chain slapping around, not something I wanted on my bike. The spring tension is not the problem - these are hydraulic tensioners and the spring has almost no effect in comparison to the oil pressure.

 

Andy

 

I can only hear it at idle speed... Should I be worried? What's the solution?

 

I was concerned so I fitted the later (R1200RT) camchain tensioner, which is a direct replacement. BMW re-engineered this so that it cannot leak-down.

 

Andy

 

So a 1200RT L/H cam chain tensioner would fix my problems? Is it a direct fit or does it need machining?

 

 

[AndyS]

 

So a 1200RT L/H cam chain tensioner would fix my problems? Is it a direct fit or does it need machining?

 

 

It is a direct replacement. The hex head is of a different size (I guess to easily identify the difference) so you will need the appropriate tools.

 

Andy

[dan cata]

 

So a 1200RT L/H cam chain tensioner would fix my problems? Is it a direct fit or does it need machining?

 

 

It is a direct replacement. The hex head is of a different size (I guess to easily identify the difference) so you will need the appropriate tools.

 

Andy

 

Real OEM says it's the same code for piston and Cylinder, for both 1100 and 1200 RT's :

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0368&mospid=48422&btnr=11_2797&hg=11&fg=30

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0413&mospid=48861&btnr=11_1850&hg=11&fg=30

 

I cannot see any difference between those two, all the parts in that are having the same code.

[Boffin]

BMW now only specify the later part, hence the samew info for all oilheads on realoem.com. On the new part, the cylinder and piston are effectivly inverted from the earlier design and so cannot leak down. If I recall correctly, the early part has a 17mm hex head, the later a 15mm hex.

 

To quote from the www.motorworks.co.uk site

Upgrades earlier models to get rid of noise at tickover; must be fitted in conjunction with ENA88629. This upgrade dispenses with the separate spring and consists of only two parts.

 

Andy

[Whip]

ABS relay????

 

I was parked up hill the other day and started my bike, with it in gear, by pulling in the clutch. The bike started backwards faster than I wanted it to. I squeezed the front break. It was not powered up yet. I only had two fingers on the lever so I ended up having to smash my own fingers in order to keep from dropping the bike.

 

Will a new battery or the relay prevent this in the future???

 

Am I talking about something completely different????

 

 

[AndyS]

Hi Whip, I think this is another subject. Why not start a new post?

 

Andy

[dan cata]

BMW now only specify the later part, hence the samew info for all oilheads on realoem.com. On the new part, the cylinder and piston are effectivly inverted from the earlier design and so cannot leak down. If I recall correctly, the early part has a 17mm hex head, the later a 15mm hex.

 

To quote from the www.motorworks.co.uk site

Upgrades earlier models to get rid of noise at tickover; must be fitted in conjunction with ENA88629. This upgrade dispenses with the separate spring and consists of only two parts.

 

Andy

 

Can you help me with some part numbers for what I need? I mean the 1200 ones

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

$54.24 us$ piston (inner part) 11317656922

$27.22 us$ cylinder (upper / outer part)11317688629

$0.25 us$ seal ring (washer) 7119963308

$4.36 us$. throttle body oring 13541341797

 

[dan cata]

What I want to do is buy the updated tensioner. I don't understand why do I have to also buy the cylinder? Isn't it the same, so that I can reuse the old one?

[philbytx]

Nope! It is an entirely different assembly!

[dan cata]

Nope! It is an entirely different assembly!

 

Ok, I will buy the whole kit; what about the L/H tensioner? Should I buy that one too? :|

[Boffin]

Nope! It is an entirely different assembly!

 

Ok, I will buy the whole kit; what about the L/H tensioner? Should I buy that one too? :|

 

You only want the LH tensioner, the RH tensioner is mounted inverted to the LH one, so the oil does not drain out of it, so there is not a problem.

 

Andy

[Ian]

I don't believe that the original BMW battery was a GEL type. BMW Germany advised not to use that type as its voltage was too low for the ABS to work properly.

 

regards,

 

Ian

[Ewell D.]

Installed the tensioner upgrade last weekend and the bike is much quieter at idle.