Cam Chain Tensioner question

[LGannon]

Does the much talked about LHS Tensioer upgrade cure more than the start up rattle? my 02 RT1150 seems a bit rattly around 5K rpm on the left side, maybe a new oil change would quiet it down.

[Linz]

Some say that it cures some of the surging (it didn't for me), some say that the timing is more accurate and that the bike runs smoother, that was true (or my mind told me it was).

Some say (me) that the bike runs quieter, especially on the left side and on closed throttle over-runs. I found that to be true.

 

I hated the start up rattle, enough to throw about $100.00 at it and an hour of my time. For me it was worth it.

 

YMMV.

 

Linz

[Mr. C]

After full warm up runs at 7o degrees or above, my 02 R1150R would rattle like a diesel truck while waiting at stop lights. I did the cam tensioner upgrade and the rattle is completely gone. I was able to do the swap without touching the throttle bodies and only had to lift the air snorkel a little bit. Definitely worth the hour or so it took.

 

-mc

[moshe_levy]

Les-

 

IN THEORY it should NOT quiet things down at 5k rpm. A few seconds after startup, the left CCT should be pressurized, and thus any slack in the chain should be gone. The rattle at startup on the left side is caused by the left CCT bleeding down oil as it sits, and the sound you hear is just the cam chain slamming around until the left CCT pumps up again and takes out the slack. Again, that's the theory as I understand it. See http://www.mklsportster.com/Articles/mcncct.pdf for details.

 

-MKL

[LGannon]

Thanks Guys, I think I'll give a go and see what happens

[Eh2Zee]

So you had the rattle after the engine warm (after riding) and returned to idling (ie at a stop light)?

 

This is my problem.

 

I think that I'll try the tensioner swap, then. This will be my first attempt at working on the bike ('04 R1150RT).

[Linz]

Make sure that you have some ratcheting wrenches which also angle (if that makes sense). I use the GearWrench set. From memory, you'll need a 17mm and a 15mm as the original is either larger or smaller than the replacement. It's in a tight spot and there's almost no room to move. I could not have easily removed and replaced without the wrenches.

 

Linz

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

everybody talks about how easy is the job to install the upgraded tensior. well

 

i must be a moron (this is rhetorical no confirmations please! ) because i found it quite challenging.

 

 

in my case the wrench fitment or selection (to get a wrench that would fit is the confined space) was challenging - but not a showstopper.

the show stopper came when it came time to insert and tighten down the new tensioner. no way jose would the treads on the new cap catch - much fighting and pushing and cursing etc to no avale.

 

finally i turned over the motor a bit by hand and this slackened the cam chain and things got back on track. for some reason no-one else's engine stopped with the LH cam chain under tension.

 

anyway i offer this tip (the turning over the engine to get some slack) - when i see this " This will be my first attempt at working on the bike " i see another candidate for a difficult install (Murphy watches over all of us... ) in my case the old tensioner popped right up out of its hole - others had to fish for it. so the other tip is if you cant fish out the old tensioner you can turn over the engine so it rides up. some expert will likely chime in that the cam chain tension is constant and turning over the engine has no effect

- just saying. cheers.

[AndyS]

If you do go ahead and change the tensioner. Ensure that the area where the tensioner goes has been thoroughly cleaned before the old tensioner comes out (Yes I know this is standard good workshop practice), but some folk might not realise that all the dirt and crud isn't meant to drop into the hole left by the old tensioner when it comes out.

 

Also, when you do it, allow yourself enough time and stay very calm, as each stage (unbolting, removing, replacing and tightening) can be a right pain.

 

Andy

[Mr. C]

Yes, it runs quiet now with the new tensioner in place.

 

Here is a thread on how to swap it out. http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=4657 If you look at the second page, I did the upgrade like Ed K in this pic except that I lifted the tank and air intake horn and used a straight extension and an old beam type torque wrench... the extension was right against the pivot, fit perfectly and allowed for the correct torque It took about 40 minutes to figure out how to get at it and about 20 minutes to change it. Oh BTW, if the old tensioner plunger stays in the slot, you can fish it out with a paperclip, leave it open wide line a fish hook, push it in and the old tensioner plunger will pull right out.

 

 

-mc

[John Dickens]

When you fit the new tensioner components do you use the old spring?

[Boffin]

When you fit the new tensioner components do you use the old spring?

 

No, the new tensioner is a two-piece part, with the spring contained internaly in the new piston assembly.

 

Andy

 

edit: here is the Motorworks page showing the new LH tensioner parts - motorworks pt no ENA56922 and ENA88629

 

 

[dan cata]

I am now waiting for RTP crash bars to arrive, and a new poly v belt and the L/H tensioner, so I am going to do all in one day. God, I hate the fairing when I have to do a job on the bike... On the GS things were way easier...

[John Dickens]

OK.

 

I've just finished the upgrade.

 

As always with the RT it took longer to remove and refit the side panel than it did to do the actual job.

 

I used the 'Cutter' method as described by Moshe K Levy. After disconnecting the electrics and fuel line the screw clamps at the manifold and the air box are loosened and the throttle body and intake tube are pushed back into the air box body.

 

A 17mm combination spanner was fine for the tensioner body and the body lifted clear easily leaving the spring in the piston. After lifting the spring I used a hooked piece of wire jammed into the piston bore to lift it out.

 

The new parts dropped in easily and only gentle pressure was needed to get the thread to catch. I don't have a 15mm combination spanner but I do have a stepless 3/8" ratchet drive which is thin enough to get in with a socket fitted. The stepless action means it still grips with very small movements of the handle.

 

I used silicone grease on the manifold rubber and in all the electrical connectors. I fired it up with the panel off to check for leaks and it is fine and has no rattle.

 

Thanks to all of you who post these helpful hints and tips.

[dan cata]

AND????

 

Does the engine feel smooth only on startup or while running too?

[John Dickens]

Smoother no! Quieter certainly on startup and when idling. No real difference when running at speed.