Transmission Drain Plug Won't Budge

[R1150RT_MLC_Response]

I have been trying to remove the transmission drain plug on my R1150RTP - 2005 model - 32,000KMS. It just won't budge. Have tried a good dose of WD40 and left it for a while. No improvement. I do not want to force it because it will strip. Any suggestions? How about heating it with a pinpoint blow torch? Is there anything I can cook down there?

 

Thanks.

[Selden]

An impact drive, such as an pneumatic wrench, may help, as it will literally break the bolt loose.

 

If that doesn't work, chilling the drain bolt should be more effective than heating. Run the engine until it heats to 5 bars on the RID, then shut it down and (somehow) hold a piece of dry ice (frozen CO2 -- not sure if Australian English uses the same term), then try. This should shrink the steel, and possibly shock the connection between the parts. You should be able to jam a wedge of dry ice into a piece of metal tubing. And, of course, t about -56 C, you don't want to be touching the stuff with your fingers.

[SageRider]

An impact drive, such as an pneumatic wrench, may help, as it will literally break the bolt loose.

 

If that doesn't work, chilling the drain bolt should be more effective than heating. Run the engine until it heats to 5 bars on the RID, then shut it down and (somehow) hold a piece of dry ice (frozen CO2 -- not sure if Australian English uses the same term), then try. This should shrink the steel, and possibly shock the connection between the parts. You should be able to jam a wedge of dry ice into a piece of metal tubing. And, of course, t about -56 C, you don't want to be touching the stuff with your fingers.

A can of electronic component cooler (freeze spray, RadioShack #64-4321) will also do the job...

[Selden]

A can of electronic component cooler (freeze spray, RadioShack #64-4321) will also do the job...

Brilliant! Much easier than mucking around with dry ice in close quarters.

[upflying]

I use a ratchet with a hex head when I remove the trans plug. I too have noticed it is a bit sticky. I overcome it by tapping the end of the ratchet with a hammer. The tapping sends vibrations through the wrench to the hex head. This breaks the bolt free for me..

[Selden]

For at least 30 years of wrenching, I have been wrapping the threads on drain bolts with Teflon pipe joint tape, which seals, adds a little bit of resistance, and makes it much harder for the drain bolt to seize up. I have never, ever, had one work loose or leak.

[tallman]

Try having someone sit on the bike and apply more ooomph.

I find that helps by keeping the bike from moving and it seems like the same effort on my part now breaks it loose.

If that doesn't work, try the above...

[awagnon]

How about heating it with a pinpoint blow torch?

 

I would use a heat gun and never a torch with a flame. Heat the case around the plug. It should come loose.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Ah, Al doesn't own an English car.

The creme brulee, or crack pipe, torch is your friend. But, for this one, Selden is right. Let everything heat up and chill the plug.

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

1/ try something a little stronger than wd-40,

liquid wrench, pb blaster, etc.

apply liberally wait 30 minutes. do this 3 times.

 

2/ hit it with a hammer while turning (put your socket on a breaker bar so as not to pound your snap on ratchet - yes this is the poor mans impact gun - but it is also the judicious mans impact gun....

 

 

[Ken H.]

Heat the case around the plug with a heat gun.

[nrp]

1/ try something a little stronger than wd-40,

liquid wrench, pb blaster, etc.

apply liberally wait 30 minutes. do this 3 times.

 

2/ hit it radially if you can with a hammer and punch while someone else is turning (put your socket on a breaker bar so as not to pound your snap on ratchet - yes this is the poor mans impact gun - but it is also the judicious mans impact gun....

 

 

Heat will help. A propane torch may be appropriate. Be sure the hex key is essentially new and is a black oxide one and everything has been thoroughly degreased. If not brand new - sand blast the hex key to improve its grip. Don't consider using any hex key that is plated.

 

Remember you get only one chance to avoid a helluva job before it strips out. Make it a good one. Good luck!

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

question - would riding the bike and getting it hot increase the likelihood of success in removal of the plug?

(i think yes but would like to hear what people have to say).

 

another trick to improve the grip - reduce the slip - help your odds - add grinding compound in the hole where the tool grips.

if no gc available worst case even toothpaste might help.

[Ken H.]

question - would riding the bike and getting it hot increase the likelihood of success in removal of the plug?

No. Typically the transmission doesn’t get hot enough for that approach to work.

[Quinn]

Are you familiar with a hand impact tool? When you pound the back of it, it automatically twists so you get the best of both worlds for stubborn bolts. I used one a lot on my old Yamaha after slotting the stripped out heads on most of the screws.

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_4809810_use-hand-impact-driver.html

 

---

 

 

[11101110]

Don't spoil it Kroil it

 

I absolutely love this stuff. It works much better than Water Dispersant 40 and PB Blaster and just about everything else. NO connection to the company just a very satisfied user.

[Selden]

question - would riding the bike and getting it hot increase the likelihood of success in removal of the plug?

No. Typically the transmission doesn’t get hot enough for that approach to work.

Combined with dry ice on the bolt, it might help, but the key thing is that you should be draining a hot/warm transmission anyway, in order for the oil to flow better, carry more crap (if any) with it.

[Peter Parts]

I thought the transmission oil in a BMW/non-unit-construction was (almost) permanent.

 

If you can't resist changing oil, add some DowGuard, MolySlip, or for slipperier shifting go synth.

[philbytx]

Not according to BMW :

Then again, less than that, if you are anal and want to check your GB and FD fluids for "issues" at every oil change. Which, for me, means every 6k and I view it as cheap insurance .

 

Here's from the official BMW maintenance CD

 

00 11 229 Changing oil in gearbox (Inspections III and IV)

or at the latest every 2 years

• Change the gear oil at operating temperature.

• Remove oil filler plug (1).

• Install oil drain tube, BMW No. 23 4 791, turning it back and forth to seat it.

• Remove oil drain plug (2) and allow the oil to drain out.

• Reinstall the oil drain plug with a new sealing ring.

• Fill with gearbox oil.

• Insert oil filler plug with new seal.

X Tightening torque:

Oil drain plug................................................ 30 Nm

Oil filler plug ................................................. 30 Nm

Quantity:

to bottom edge of filler neck

........ approx. 0.8 l (1.41 Imp. pints/0.85 US quarts)

Oil grade for gearbox:

Brand name SAE 90 API GL 5 hypoid lubricant or

Castrol MTX 75W-140 GL 5

 

 

00 11 229 Changing the oil in the rearwheel drive

(Inspections I, III and IV)

every 40,000 km (24,000 miles) or at the latest every 2 years

• Change the gear oil at operating temperature.

Attention: Do not allow oil to drip onto the rear tyre.

• Remove oil filler plug (1).

• Remove oil drain plug (2) and allow the oil to

drain out.

• Reinstall the oil drain plug with a new sealing ring.

• Fill with gearbox oil.

• Insert oil filler plug with new seal.

X Tightening torque:

Oil drain plug................................................ 23 Nm

Oil filler plug ................................................. 23 Nm

Quantity:

to bottom of thread in oil filler hole

...... approx. 0.25 l (0.44 Imp. pints/0.26 US quarts)

Oil grade for rear wheel drive:

Brand name hypoid-gear lubricant SAE 90 API GL 5

[Peter Parts]

I raised at least two points for what might have become an intelligent discussion:

 

1. Does MLC Response really have to get his plug off? Does oil in a sealed gear box wear out? If so, how long really?

 

2. Are there additives that are worth adding when you are filling it?

 

What should have been OBVIOUS to any reader who reads thoughtfully is that nobody who posts to this list needs to be reminded in a school-marmish way of the factory recommendations, least of all a guy with 44 riding seasons on these boxers.

 

But thanks for the posting the factory's point of view.

[Peter Parts]

OK, I admit that seeing The Factory quoted makes me see red and reply accordingly. Sorry to be testy.

 

philbytx does raise a good point about other reasons for eyeballing your oil, namely to see if something is deteriorating inside.

 

While you might catch something happening that way, I suspect it might just be luck to be looking at the narrow time slot when you can detect damage yet can still figure out something useful to do about it.

 

Wouldn't it be smarter for the factory to have a little magnet on a shoelace attached to the filler plug so you could drag it out of the oil now and then without fussing over changing the oil. Oh yeah, and magnets that would catch aluminum, bronze, babbit metal, and rubber-stuff too for the engine oil.

[R1150RT_MLC_Response]

Well, thanks to everyone who has expressed a view. I will sort through the suggestions come the weekend and let you all know what the result is. Hopefully the least complex suggestion will provide the ideal solution.

 

And on the matter of "getting my plug off", well that is something I try to do as often as I can.

 

Thanks to all.

 

Ian

[philbytx]

Peter,

I only added that as a complete, technical reply to your

quote

I thought the transmission oil in a BMW/non-unit-construction was (almost) permanent.

unquote

but mainly for newbies/other's that may not be aware of the BMW recommended change intervals.

 

IMHO, the above quoted "I thought" comment did not appear to have origins with someone who has 44 riding seasons under his belt!!

 

And you shouldn't be "seeing red" at your tender years and, especially, taking things personally.

It's not good for the heart, soul or ego mate and, please remember, no matter how long you have trodden on this planet, your birth certificate is merely a license to learn !

 

Now go help that boy with his drain plug..................

 

 

[BarrieSalvanda]

Philby, Er! Drain Hum BMW.So I gotta go get one of those sticks with a big rubber cup on the end,ta plunge the stuff out.

NA! I will stick to wiffing the'Castrol RRR'.

 

Over N Out from the'Skakkie Isles.