R1100RT Jump Start Kit

[Steve Kolenda]

Just added the BMW Jump Start Bracket to the positive side of my battery (2000 R1100RT) just in case. Not sure where the best place to connect the negative to if a jump is required. Any suggestions?

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Just about anywhere that gets you a circuit. The positive connection is the hard one.

[dan cata]

Just added the BMW Jump Start Bracket to the positive side of my battery (2000 R1100RT) just in case. Not sure where the best place to connect the negative to if a jump is required. Any suggestions?

 

Exhaust pipe coming out of the cylinder?

[Peter Parts]

Yeah, I'm always puzzling over the best negative connection. But mostly I work with the accessory socket so not an issue.

 

Remember, jump starting is not about the feeble current you can get through the wires. It is about leaving the booster source connected 15 minutes to get power into your battery for cranking. Even a plug-in transformer trickle charger will get a weak battery ready for action in a half hour.

[boatzo]

Yeah, I'm always puzzling over the best negative connection. But mostly I work with the accessory socket so not an issue.

 

Remember, jump starting is not about the feeble current you can get through the wires. It is about leaving the booster source connected 15 minutes to get power into your battery for cranking. Even a plug-in transformer trickle charger will get a weak battery ready for action in a half hour.

 

Peter, my idea of jump starting is when you are away from your charger and a/c outlets. You are dead and need assistance from another vehicle on the spot. The OP has done the correct thing, installing an external post on which to connect a positive lead. Negative connection can be anywhere you can get a good ground (to frame) connection. The cable to the positive post must be of sufficient size to handle the starter load and the external connection post should be covered(protected) to prevent accidental shorting.

[ltljohn]

Last time I had to jump start I clamped the negative to the center stand.

[Steve Kolenda]

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'm hoping not to have to use it.

[Peter Parts]

Yeah, I'm always puzzling over the best negative connection. But mostly I work with the accessory socket so not an issue.

 

Remember, jump starting is not about the feeble current you can get through the wires. It is about leaving the booster source connected 15 minutes to get power into your battery for cranking. Even a plug-in transformer trickle charger will get a weak battery ready for action in a half hour.

 

Peter, my idea of jump starting is when you are away from your charger and a/c outlets. You are dead and need assistance from another vehicle on the spot. The OP has done the correct thing, installing an external post on which to connect a positive lead. Negative connection can be anywhere you can get a good ground (to frame) connection. The cable to the positive post must be of sufficient size to handle the starter load and the external connection post should be covered(protected) to prevent accidental shorting.

 

Just what situation did you think I was talking about?

 

Yes, out in the rain on a dark night, you hook up the booster cables and wait as long as your patience holds. THEN crank. Even with the starter-motor-kludge connection (which I installed on my machine), the booster cables and four rusty alligator clips (all in series, eh) are marginal for instantly cranking.

 

Since nearly the whole visible part of bike is painted, finished in stuff you don't want to mar, impossible to get an alligator clip on, rather close to gasoline, or non-conductive, and the center stand is in that list too, I don't think my point about puzzling over the connection point was all that stupid.

 

[Boffin]

Yeah, I'm always puzzling over the best negative connection. But mostly I work with the accessory socket so not an issue.

 

Remember, jump starting is not about the feeble current you can get through the wires. It is about leaving the booster source connected 15 minutes to get power into your battery for cranking. Even a plug-in transformer trickle charger will get a weak battery ready for action in a half hour.

 

Peter, my idea of jump starting is when you are away from your charger and a/c outlets. You are dead and need assistance from another vehicle on the spot. The OP has done the correct thing, installing an external post on which to connect a positive lead. Negative connection can be anywhere you can get a good ground (to frame) connection. The cable to the positive post must be of sufficient size to handle the starter load and the external connection post should be covered(protected) to prevent accidental shorting.

 

Just what situation did you think I was talking about?

 

Yes, out in the rain on a dark night, you hook up the booster cables and wait as long as your patience holds. THEN crank. Even with the starter-motor-kludge connection (which I installed on my machine), the booster cables and four rusty alligator clips (all in series, eh) are marginal for instantly cranking.

 

Since nearly the whole visible part of bike is painted, finished in stuff you don't want to mar, impossible to get an alligator clip on, rather close to gasoline, or non-conductive, and the center stand is in that list too, I don't think my point about puzzling over the connection point was all that stupid.

 

I agree with most of that. I am not too worried about gasoline, because the risks there are very low - lower than gassing from a flat non-sealed battery. I always clip onto a lump of engine - the exhaust header is good enough (a conduction path through the mounting studs) but Peter's point about the path resistance is valid. Also needing consideration is the current sink that exists in the form of a flat battery - that will soak up the input current leading to a lower effective voltage at the starter. A few minutes letting the dead battery get some charge will make a world of difference.

 

Andy

[ogjimbob]

got to say, being on my 3rd starter motor, all my experiences with jump starting have been the "get the sod moving then jump on it and drop the clutch sharpish" type if you release and pull in the clutch quickly enough you will get the engine firing before the wheel locks (timing is king) the other method of using a long screwdriver and a booster pack just led to a very hot screwdriver (I told the mechanic the starter was history, but what did I know! )

[AndyS]

got to say, being on my 3rd starter motor, all my experiences with jump starting have been the "get the sod moving then jump on it and drop the clutch sharpish" type .....

 

Ah Bump starting. Yes these bikes arn't too keen on that are they!

 

Andy