Gear issues

[LeftCoastMan]

When my engine is cold, I have a bit of a problem switching from 2nd to 3rd gear. It may take one, two or more tries to make it switch gear. After the engine is warmed up after a few miles, it switches smoothly. Do I need to sell the bike for scrap and buy a new 2010?

 

I'm looking for excuses. But it really is a serious question.

[NewBlue]

Try a trans fluid change but I won't recommend a lube, I know how that could end up

[LeftCoastMan]

Try a trans fluid change but I won't recommend a lube, I know how that could end up

 

I did that three or four thousand miles ago. I can't believe I would have to do it again?

[lvnvbiker]

What wieght lube did you put in it? When I was running the factory 90wt mine was similar in that it shifted a bit harder when cold, but after I replaced the single viscosity dino stuff with a high quality 75/90 full synthetic the shifting was consistantly smoother. It could also be that shes not fully broken in yet too, the trans in these bikes is built like a frickin tank and they don't seem to loosen up much until over 50k miles. If you have not switched over to full synthetic multi vis yet you may want to give that a shot it truely did seem to help.

[Hall Vince]

Check your linkage and pivot points are well lubed. Surprising how much difference the shifting is when they are lubed.

hth

\v/

[LeftCoastMan]

What wieght lube did you put in it? When I was running the factory 90wt mine was similar in that it shifted a bit harder when cold, but after I replaced the single viscosity dino stuff with a high quality 75/90 full synthetic the shifting was consistantly smoother. It could also be that shes not fully broken in yet too, the trans in these bikes is built like a frickin tank and they don't seem to loosen up much until over 50k miles. If you have not switched over to full synthetic multi vis yet you may want to give that a shot it truely did seem to help.

 

I put in the 90W synthetic that's recommended. Unless I'm doing significant damage to the transmission, I think I can live with this.

 

Also, I only have 18,000 on the bike. I'm happy to have a transmission that's built like a tank, so I'm even happier to live with this slight issue.

 

Thanks.

[LeftCoastMan]

Check your linkage and pivot points are well lubed. Surprising how much difference the shifting is when they are lubed.

hth

\v/

 

Would you happen to have some directions on doing this? Or is it so easy that a spritz of teflon lube will do it?

[RT Fan]

You could always buy a new S1000RR. I was watching youtube videos of the S1000RR and they are running up to 90 mph in 1st gear so you do not have to shift at all.

[JayW]

I put in the 90W synthetic that's recommended.

 

Hmmm. I seem to remember that 75W-140 is recommended for use in the transmission. Maybe that's why yours is shifting a bit rough.

 

Jay

[LeftCoastMan]

I put in the 90W synthetic that's recommended.

 

Hmmm. I seem to remember that 75W-140 is recommended for use in the transmission. Maybe that's why yours is shifting a bit rough.

 

Jay

 

I used whatever was recommended. I don't vary from that. Someone mentioned 90W, and I presumed that's what I used. If it was 75-140, then that's what I used.

 

Let's move away from the oil. What could be causing this issue?

[Satguy]

actually, the oil has a lot to do with how the trans shifts.

 

I own an 1200RT and decided to put some Redline heavy shockproof gear oil in the tranny...... It worked very well in the 1150RT that I used to own.

 

Well, after a very short time I noticed very difficult shifting etc. Changed the oil back to the BMW speced. 75w-90 synthetic gear oil and much better.

 

Good Luck!

 

[LeftCoastMan]

actually, the oil has a lot to do with how the trans shifts.

 

I own an 1200RT and decided to put some Redline heavy shockproof gear oil in the tranny...... It worked very well in the 1150RT that I used to own.

 

Well, after a very short time I noticed very difficult shifting etc. Changed the oil back to the BMW speced. 75w-90 synthetic gear oil and much better.

 

Good Luck!

 

I understand the oil issue. I used the right oil, I just lack the right brain cells to remember any spec, oil, and whatever on the bike. I have to look up the tire pressure every time!

 

When someone said that I used blank oil in the transmission, I assumed he was right, and just went along with it. You guys are focusing on my using the wrong oil, which I did not do. I used precisely what is recommended for this bike. Actually bought it at a BMW dealer. And the oil was changed 8 months/5,000 miles ago.

 

Now let's presume I used the BMW spec'ed oil. Let's also presume that there are no leaks of said oil (I have looked everywhere under the bike, and I can't see any leaks, but maybe I'm looking in the wrong place). It's a little cool here, but not cold. I road the bike while it was cold just a month ago, and shifting was precise, so this has happened in the last month or so. Once the bike warms up, say 10-20 miles, shifting is precise again. And it is only shifting from 2nd to 3rd, none of the other shifts.

 

Any ideas? Or is it really an oil issue?

 

 

 

[Selden]

Try a trans fluid change but I won't recommend a lube, I know how that could end up

I did that three or four thousand miles ago. I can't believe I would have to do it again?

It should take less than an hour to drain/refill the trans. Depending on the oil you use, $10-$20 for fresh oil. That strikes me as a pretty cheap way to eliminate one variable. If it is still balky with fresh oil, look for other explanations.

 

Many people like Mobil-1 75W-90 or 75W-140 synthetic, which are widely available at auto parts stores.

[Joe_C]

I use the BMW recommended synthetic and even change it sooner than necessary. I have the same shift issues. Sometimes it's smooth as silk. Sometimes there's a clunk. Happens when cold and stops when warm. Also had the opposite. Used to think it was the way I was shifting, but now I think it's the nature of the transmissions until they are fully broken in (I have 14000 mi on mine).

[Hall Vince]

Check your linkage and pivot points are well lubed. Surprising how much difference the shifting is when they are lubed.

hth

\v/

 

Would you happen to have some directions on doing this? Or is it so easy that a spritz of teflon lube will do it?

 

If you lay down and look up under the back of the gear lever, you'll see where the lever shaft runs through a couple of (plastic IIRC) sleeves in the frame, then you'll see two ball joint type thingys. I squirt some ACF50 as my prefered anti seize & lube as it creep into every thing.

Shift is noticably easier and smoother. It does need to be done a few times a year, more so in winter when I'm cleaning the bike more with bike cleaner.

 

Have you also tried different methods of shifting?

Some suggest lightly loading the lever, then popping the clutch lever and as the pressure is released from the drive the gear is selected. It does seem to work, but not always.

hth

\v/

[LeftCoastMan]

I use the BMW recommended synthetic and even change it sooner than necessary. I have the same shift issues. Sometimes it's smooth as silk. Sometimes there's a clunk. Happens when cold and stops when warm. Also had the opposite. Used to think it was the way I was shifting, but now I think it's the nature of the transmissions until they are fully broken in (I have 14000 mi on mine).

 

I'm beginning to think it's just a random thing. Lot's of people say that a BMW isn't broken in until you hit 30-40K miles, when everything just works smoothly. No one is posting that this is the first warning sign of my transmission dropping on the ground in pile of steel.

[lvnvbiker]

Your trans is fine, just not fully broken in yet. As to oils, the dealer tends to fill with single vis 90wt dino and so does the manufacturer and for a few thousand miles (like in the engine) this is a good idea as it allows some wear and the trans "beds in". After some miles switching to the manufacurers recomended alternate oil ( 75/90 synthetic ) can help smooth out the shifting some, but milage really the only 100% sure fire cure though. Ride it alot and unless your trans oil changes color(a sure sign of a problem) or has chunks of metal in it (another sure sign) at regular changes, refill with your chosen poison and repeat the process until you sell it or break it.

[LeftCoastMan]

Your trans is fine, just not fully broken in yet. As to oils, the dealer tends to fill with single vis 90wt dino and so does the manufacturer and for a few thousand miles (like in the engine) this is a good idea as it allows some wear and the trans "beds in". After some miles switching to the manufacurers recomended alternate oil ( 75/90 synthetic ) can help smooth out the shifting some, but milage really the only 100% sure fire cure though. Ride it alot and unless your trans oil changes color(a sure sign of a problem) or has chunks of metal in it (another sure sign) at regular changes, refill with your chosen poison and repeat the process until you sell it or break it.

 

Are you forcing me to break in my bike? What a horrible thing to do! I am only doing this under protest.

[lvnvbiker]

Listen Mister, quit yer snivelin' and get to riding. If you don't start logging some miles we'll be forced to suspend your privelages and revoke your membership!

Seriously enjoy the ride, and just focus on shifting a bit harder. My GS with 48300 miles on it will still act up at times (cold days especialy) and if I don't focus on my shifting I have had it pop into a false neutral on the rare occassion.

[LeftCoastMan]

Listen Mister, quit yer snivelin' and get to riding. If you don't start logging some miles we'll be forced to suspend your privelages and revoke your membership!

Seriously enjoy the ride, and just focus on shifting a bit harder. My GS with 48300 miles on it will still act up at times (cold days especialy) and if I don't focus on my shifting I have had it pop into a false neutral on the rare occassion.

 

OK. I apologize to the BMW community for not riding enough to have my bike fully broken in within 6 months. I am a miserable human being.

 

I got a new pair of boots, and I'm wondering if I can't feel the shifter as well.

[Selden]

Boots make a big difference. The toe box for my Aerostich CT Lites is so big/stiff that I upshift using the edge of the sole. On the other hand, if I had been wearing them when I had a off-road excursion 9 days ago, I probably wouldn't have a broken foot.

[LeftCoastMan]

Boots make a big difference. The toe box for my Aerostich CT Lites is so big/stiff that I upshift using the edge of the sole. On the other hand, if I had been wearing them when I had a off-road excursion 9 days ago, I probably wouldn't have a broken foot.

 

I've got a new pair of Sidi Vertigo Rains. From my observations of motorcycle injuries, the two parts of the body that are seriously at risk are the head and lower legs. So, I have the absolute best helmet I could find. Price was not a concern.

 

And I looked for a pair of boots that would protect the feet, ankles and lower leg from almost any crushing injury. So I bought the best boots I could find that meet that standard. I knew that walking comfort or summer heat will be a bit of a concern, but I'll live. I have a pair of light walking shoes in my panniers, and I just take off the boots, put on the shoes in about 1 minute.

 

So, yes, if you had been wearing a lesser boot, you might be on crutches now, not riding. I don't get people who worry about walking around with their boots. Or how they look. Or just wearing some non motorcycle boot. ATGATT.