Any Ideas?

[jshdc]

I'm working on decreasing the surge on my '02 1150RT. I've adjusted the valves, synchronized the TBs, and added a Techlusion. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble making an impact on it. I don't know if this is related to why I'm having trouble: When I stop (shut off the bike) for a few minutes (the time it takes to buy a cup of coffee) and start the bike (which starts fine), I engage the clutch and head on my way only to have the engine basically stumble for the first 50 to 100 feet or so. It finally "catches" and off I go. Of interest, the Techlusion seems to not change a thing no matter where I set the "cruise" setting. Anyone experience this? Any ideas?

[T__]

Jeff, first off,, if you bike is in otherwise good health & all systems working fine then a properly working & properly adjusted Techlusion should remove most if not all of the surging..

 

 

On your stumble after a hot soak re-start? Did you have that before the Techlusion was added?

 

Does you bike still have the Pink CCP installed? If not either re-install it or jumper the cavities in the fuse box to emulate the pink CCP..

 

What setting do you have on the Techlusion now? If the Techlusion isn’t changing anything now it either isn’t working,, is mis-adjusted,, or you have other issues with your bike (like TPS adjustment,, or 02 sensor not function correctly,, or a fueling issue,, or some other adjustment out of whack..

 

Have you removed the #5 fuse & done TPS relearn? If not start there..

 

Twisty

 

[outpost22]

I'm sure others with true surging issues will have a better answer for you.

Have you tried Autolite 3923 spark plugs? (The 3923 work well in the 1100, not sure of the 1150). They have cleaned up surging issues for others with similar problems (not the stumbling). Small price and possible large gains?

[David R]

I had the same stumbling problem with the techlusion. It was when it was hooked in with the o2 sensor. Even with it shut off, the bike would die just about the time I was pulling into traffic. Annoying as can be and unsafe.

 

IF you like the techlusion, unhook the 02 sensor, reset your computer by pulling the fuse and try that.

 

I bet it fixes that problem.

 

I now have the techlusion shut off and o2 sensor unhooked. Bike runs great and gets mileage in the low 40s.

 

David

[RTCHIEF]

When was the last time you had your bike on the BMW computer?

[jshdc]

I did fail to mention that I replaced the plugs with the 3923s.

 

The bike is new to me (Nov '09). I have shut off the Techlusion to see if the stumble still occurs. Will report on this.

 

Twisty, I don't know what the Pink CCP is. Please enlighten me. Also, removing/reinstalling the #5 fuse... this resets the TPS?

 

What about disconnecting the O2 sensor? Viable alternative?

 

Records indicate that the bike has been regularly serviced by the dealer; however, I personally have yet to take the bike to the dealer for a checkup. Maybe it's time.

[T__]

Jeff

 

I did fail to mention that I replaced the plugs with the 3923s….

--Those should work just fine,, actually the Auto Lite 3922 is closer to the original 1150 spark plug but a lot use the 3923 in the 1150 without any issues..

 

The bike is new to me (Nov '09). I have shut off the Techlusion to see if the stumble still occurs. Will report on this……

--Yes, see if that makes any difference.. The Techlusion 1032 will act strange if the 02 sensor is lazy or malfunctioning.. The Techlusion 1031 won’t work correctly if the 02 sensor is left connected & operational..

--I forgot to ask you in the original reply what Techlusion you are using?

 

 

Twisty, I don't know what the Pink CCP is. Please enlighten me. Also, removing/reinstalling the #5 fuse... this resets the TPS?…

--The Pink CCP is the factory jumper box in your fuse box that forces the correct fueling map to be selected by the fueling computer.. The Techlusion is designed to work with the factory CCP so if that is missing or incorrect the Techlusion can act strangely..

 

What about disconnecting the O2 sensor? Viable alternative?….

--Depends on what Techlusion you are using.. If using the 1031 then you MUST disconnect the 02 sensor.. If you are using the 1032 Techlusion then it is designed to be used with the 02 sensor operational or the Techlusion will over fuel in some areas & cause a strong fuel smell or not fuel correctly.. There is NO RPM crossover adjustment pot on the 1032 so it really needs the 02 senor to operate & fuel correctly.. It (the 1032) will work with the 02 disconnected but not correctly or accurately..

 

 

 

Also, removing/reinstalling the #5 fuse... this resets the TPS?….--Yes, you remove the #5 (Motronic) fuse for about 30 seconds,, then reinstall the fuse,, then turn the key on (do not start the engine),, then fully open & close the throttle twice (note: be sure the choke is OFF darning the re-set procedure).. This re-sets the TPS learn in the Motronic (fueling computer)..

 

The CCP is the pink box shown in picture.. Disregard the remove part as it was posted for another thread but is the first picture I had handy to show you where it is located on the 1150RT..

 

 

Twisty

 

[pjw73nh]

Jeff,

 

The CCP is the Cat Code Plug. It is in the electrical box. It looks like a relay, but is actually a jumper (in a pink plastic housing). Based on the configuration of the jumpers, it tells engine management computer which fuel map (and I am sure many other settings) to use.

 

The engine management computer is somewhat "adaptive" it learns your throttling patterns. When you pull fuse 5 it resets this so that it can re-learn from scratch. I believe it recalibrates the TPS to zero (fully closed). There are others here that know way more about this. Perhaps they'll chime in soon.

 

I recently switched to the 3923 plugs, and they did make a bit of a difference in the surging, but because of other issues I went back to my old ones. Bosch Platinum 4++.

 

Paul.../NH

 

PS. Sorry, I walked on Twisty1's post. I guess we were typing at the same time.

[jshdc]

Thanks for all the replies.

 

Regarding the Techlusion: I'm using the 1032 (R259).

 

Regarding the Pink CCP: I'll take a look and see what I can determine. Twisty, when you say if it's missing or incorrect, do you mean literally "missing?" If incorrect, how would I tell what's correct?

 

I'll try the fuse #5 procedure.

[T__]

Jeff, pink color is correct for the 2002 USA R1150RT.. There are a few colors available that force different base fuel mapping.. See if you have one where shown in picture,, then see if it’s pink..

 

If it is missing let us know & we can show you how to make a 3 terminal jumper wire to plug in & make the system think the pink CCP is there..

 

Did your bike come with the Techlusion or did you add it? If it came on the bike let us know as some of the early 1032 (R259) had moisture intrusion problems & would act up (similar to what you are seeing after a hot re-start)

 

 

Twisty

 

[jshdc]

Thanks, Twisty. I'll check the Pink CCP.

 

I added the Techlusion, so it's a new unit.

 

It may seem strange that I don't really know how the bike ran when I first got it. Since it's a new bike to me, I'm getting used to it concerning all aspects. I don't know if the surging issue has been there all along and as I've become more familiar and comfortable with the bike, I'm more aware of the surging. Since I've done things to eliminate (or decrease) the surging, I'm assuming that it's been there all along...

 

One other factor (I know I should have placed this in my original post, but, well... I didn't): It could be my imagination, but I think the surge is worse when the bike is at operating temperature. Mean anything to anyone?

 

[T__]

Jeff, I had a 2002 RT & it surged pretty bad as built.. Sometimes & some weather conditions not so bad but warm weather,, dry day,, & full operating temperature it could be pretty bad at light loading steady state throttle..

Oxygenated fuels made it worse & some alcohol blends made it get worse..

 

Pink CCP removed (Techlusion turned off or tuned differently for that) it wasn’t to bad but with the pink CCP removed it didn’t have a crisp throttle response or snappy engine pull & was little sluggish as mid throttle acceleration & upper mid range was sluggish..

 

Opening up the spark plug electrode gap slightly helped as well as a good TBI balance..

 

Probably the best runability with the Techlusion removed or turned off was with the 02 sensor disconnected..

 

With the 02 operational & the Techlusion tuned about best possible it still surged very slightly but you really had to look for it & try to aggravate it to have it become noticeable in normal riding (I am very sensitive to engine surging issues as I do a lot of runability testing for a living)..

 

At one time I spent a lot of time riding off all the CCP configurations complete with riding with an active 02 sensor duty cycle meter in front of me.. After a lot of miles of riding in all weather & all temperature conditions I always ended up with the pink CCP back in the bike & the Techlusion 1032 turned back on..

 

One thing I can relate to you is: Even when you get it the best possible if you purposely go out & ride it to produce the surge you will find it.. When you get it best possible you can ride it under most conditions & will never really notice the surging unless you really try to..

 

I can’t tell you how many people have told me there 1100 or 1150 doesn’t surge at all,, then after I ride it I find it is/was worse than mine ever was.. Some people just don’t seem to tune into it,, others seem to ride at the operational parameters that it isn’t a problem for them,, & others just don’t seem to know what a surge actually feels like..

 

On thing I can say is: with diligent work on your part,, & a lot of tuning work you can make the single spark 1150 pretty decent as far as bothersome surging goes.. Perfect? Probably not,, very acceptable? Yes..

 

Twisty

 

[boatzo]

This one may be far out, but have you noticed a vacuum release when you open the fuel fill cap? My RT had problems when I had a clogged charcoal canister. Just a SWAG.

 

And, FWIW, my 99 RT does not surge anymore. Autolite plugs, valve adjust, TB sync (and clean the BBS). No Power Commander and no Techlusion, origional CCP. (can't remember the colour)

[outpost22]

Just another off the wall thought, but when was the last time the fuel filter was changed in this bike?

[jshdc]

I haven't noticed any vacuum release. Regarding the filter, I have no idea. As I stated previously, the bike's been dealer serviced so I can find out; however, this is something worth checking into... the symptoms are as if it's starved for fuel. Of course, this leads back to the lean state these (and most) bikes run, which brings us back to the purpose of the Techlusion. Since I'm in California, we do have oxygenated fuel during the winter months.

 

I'll check the Pink CCP, pull the #5 fuse, and check the filter (I've heard that the filter is a pain to get to).

 

I'll follow-up with how it goes.

[T__]

Jeff, if you have fuel filter plugging it would be way more noticeable at hi-way speeds than light load low speed surging speeds.. (you are using very little fuel at surging conditions)

Will your bike pull 125 mph? (do it in a safe place).. Or climb a long freeway hill in high gear & maintain speed without bucking or losing speed or power? Of easily hit red line under WOT acceleration.. If so then the fuel filer surely isn’t causing problems at light load partial throttle..

 

When you get your CCP accounted for,, then do the TPS re-set let’s see what you have..

 

We’ll then work with your Techlusion adjustments & possibly the 02 sensor area..

 

Twisty

 

[jshdc]

Good point... it runs strong under heavy throttle - good response and acceleration. I'm checking the CCP and performing the TPS reset tonight. I'll follow-up.

 

Thanks for all the help.

[pjw73nh]

Well, I was going to start another thread, but I think my question is relatively germane and may have some value here.

 

Is there a publication or a "quick reference" type of guide that would have some block diagrams, and theory of operation of the Motronic engine management system?

 

I am looking for a little more than basic info, but not overly technical (I'm not going to measure injector pulse width or amplitude etc). I just want something I can reference that will for example show me all the inputs from the various sensors, some theory of operation, As an example maybe thing like "when oil temp reaches X, the system shifts over to closed loop", or O2 sensor is out of play until Y happens. Maybe some info on test points like a post or two where someone was asked to "look for .5v crossovers" in reference to a fueling issue. That type of thing.

 

I probably haven't explained it well.

 

Thanks.

 

Paul.../NH

[T__]

Paul, I wrote a fairly lengthily response then removed it..

 

This posting will surly start a hijacking of Jeff’s thread & get us way off his original intent..

 

We just did that a couple of days ago to another board member & the original post became so diluted it became worthless to the OP..

 

Please start a new thread so we don’t do another hijacking here..

 

Twisty

 

[4wheeldog]

Jeff, I had a 2002 RT & it surged pretty bad as built.. Sometimes & some weather conditions not so bad but warm weather,, dry day,, & full operating temperature it could be pretty bad at light loading steady state throttle..

Oxygenated fuels made it worse & some alcohol blends made it get worse..

 

Pink CCP removed (Techlusion turned off or tuned differently for that) it wasn’t to bad but with the pink CCP removed it didn’t have a crisp throttle response or snappy engine pull & was little sluggish as mid throttle acceleration & upper mid range was sluggish..

 

Opening up the spark plug electrode gap slightly helped as well as a good TBI balance..

 

Probably the best runability with the Techlusion removed or turned off was with the 02 sensor disconnected..

 

With the 02 operational & the Techlusion tuned about best possible it still surged very slightly but you really had to look for it & try to aggravate it to have it become noticeable in normal riding (I am very sensitive to engine surging issues as I do a lot of runability testing for a living)..

 

At one time I spent a lot of time riding off all the CCP configurations complete with riding with an active 02 sensor duty cycle meter in front of me.. After a lot of miles of riding in all weather & all temperature conditions I always ended up with the pink CCP back in the bike & the Techlusion 1032 turned back on..

 

One thing I can relate to you is: Even when you get it the best possible if you purposely go out & ride it to produce the surge you will find it.. When you get it best possible you can ride it under most conditions & will never really notice the surging unless you really try to..

 

I can’t tell you how many people have told me there 1100 or 1150 doesn’t surge at all,, then after I ride it I find it is/was worse than mine ever was.. Some people just don’t seem to tune into it,, others seem to ride at the operational parameters that it isn’t a problem for them,, & others just don’t seem to know what a surge actually feels like..

 

On thing I can say is: with diligent work on your part,, & a lot of tuning work you can make the single spark 1150 pretty decent as far as bothersome surging goes.. Perfect? Probably not,, very acceptable? Yes..

 

Twisty

 

I have been riding an R1150RT since new. The surging issue has not reared its ugly head for many years. A few observations:

The surge occurs because the motronic has one set of sensors for two cylinders......So if they are out of balance in any way, one winds up rich, and the other lean. Mine used to do this most noticably when riding from warm into cold, particularly foggy, weather.

Next to careful tuning spark plug choice makes as much difference as anything I tried. I am too cheap to use a Techlusion......Not just the price of admission, but the extra fuel consumption was not attractive to me. For the same reason. I have always kept the pink CCP in place as well. The best spark plug choice I found was ND IK22s....Iridium plugs. I have used them for as much as 24k before changing, and there was no noticable improvement with the new ones in place over the worn ones. Cold starting and running is much better with them as well. The stock BMW plugs were the worst choice, interestingly enough.

Also, when all else fails, running a big dose of either Techron or Sea Foam through the fuel system will smooth things out more times than not. I always figured that some small deposit in one of the fuel injectors was responsible for the imbalance that the cleaner fixed. And CA gas is the very worst, according to my random countrywide testing.

If I had tried everything else that has been suggested, I would remove the fuel injectors and have them cleaned and flow checked. An imbalance here will have you chasing your tail for quite a while. Good Luck.

[jshdc]

Okay, time for an update... checked the pink CCP and it's in place. Did the #5 fuse TPS reset. Turned off the Techlusion to see how it felt stock. Problem may be better; then again maybe not.

 

Here's something related to my previous findings but a different way: On a hot startup, I gave the bike a couple of throttle blips to clear the injectors. I then very slowly (and I mean s-l-o-w-l-y) opened the throttle. The engine accelerated and the RPMs increased until about 2500 RPM - then the motor lost RPM, and sputtered to the point where I thought is was going to die. This occurred while I was still slowly rolling on the throttle.

 

Later last night, my friend (who has an '02 RT and believes he has it dialed in) and I rode each other's bikes. Was I aware of any surge with his? Yes; however, it was so mild it didn't bother me whatsoever (it was comparable to the insignificant surge I get on my DR650). His comment to me was, "You need to sell this bike... it's you. It feels smooth to me." I suggested we take them out on the road (we were in a large parking lot doing low speed low gear test riding). At our next stop, he commented, "Okay, now I feel what you're talking about. That's not a surge, it's a stumble. I didn't feel it before, but I did just then."

 

Long story short: Whatever's going on seems intermittent (explains why I sometimes can't tell if it's better, the same, or worse), and isn't - based on the above feedback - a surge but what we're calling a stumble. I don't know what would cause this: Bad plug wire? Weak coil? Dirty fuel delivery system? I'm going to take it to the dealer and see if the problem can be found.

 

I'll follow-up with the results. In the meantime, please feel free to respond with your thoughts.

 

Thanks.

 

[T__]

Jeff, a couple of thoughts on this;

 

It sure kind-of sounds like a mis-set TPS or a TPS with an erratic tracking problem.. That doesn’t mean it is just that it acts like it is..

 

First place to start-- is to completely disconnect the Techlusion from between the 02 sensor & bike’s wire harness & disconnect from the injector harness.. Just turning it off sometimes won’t show the problem. A defective or malfunctioning Techlusion can act just like what you are feeling.. Do this to POSITIVLY eliminate the Techlusion as the issue..

 

A malfunctioning 02 sensor can also act somewhat like what you are feeling.. When you are in there to disconnect the Techlusion leave the 02 connector accessible so you try riding the bike with the 02 sensor disconnected..

 

If doing the above & the problem is still there you will probably need to do a TPS curb idle base voltage check & TPS tracking test..

 

Other possibilities are water in the fuel that settles after a stop,, or spark plugs acting up,, or plug wires acting up,, or even a hot soak issue with the hall effect sensor (low probability on this)..

 

Twisty

 

[jshdc]

Sounds like good advice. I will disconnect the Techlusion just in case it is problematic. I'll try riding with the O2 disconnected to see if there's a difference. Other than that, it's off to the dealer for diagnosis.

 

One other question: Do these bikes store fault codes for ease of dealer diagnosis?

[Peter Parts]

Jeff, a couple of thoughts on this;

 

It sure kind-of sounds like a mis-set TPS or a TPS with an erratic tracking problem..snip

Twisty

 

Being curious about the TPS sender, I bought a spare to fool with. Hooking up an ohmmeter to all possible combinations of pins and also spinning the commutator gave me wholly odd results.

 

I couldn't decipher the Bosch diagram meaningfully.

 

How to test? (Is my unit broken?)

 

Thanks.

 

BTW, a bit tricky setting the TPS voltage. Too high (which helps with surging) and you might obliterate the software idle switch point.

[T__]

Peter, are you asking a legitimate question on that TPS or just looking for a lead in to

disagree with the answer?

 

I’ll assume this is a legitimate request so will answer.. (Please don’t prove this assumption wrong & turn this question into a hijack of jeff’s thread)

 

That type of TPS uses “for lack of a better word” a center tap type resistor.. It is basically a resistor that has 5 volts DC on one end & a return (basically a ground) on the other end of the resistor.. Then a movable wiper rides along on that resistor & outputs the voltage back to the Motronic as an analog 0-5v DC voltage.. So if the wiper is at the ground end of the resistor it reports low (near 0 volts) & if near the 5v end it reports high voltage (near 5 volts).. This is a very effective & repeatable position sensing device as it is kind of self regulated so the output voltage doesn’t fluctuate much due to chassis system voltage fluctuations.. The Bosch type TPS on the BMW 1100/1150 actually has two output wipers one for low throttle (basically idle to about ½ throttle) & one usable from about ½ throttle to full throttle as that allows better resolution & better gain control (lots of systems like the Delphi only use a single output..

 

To test the BMW TPS it should be in the vehicle as that gives the TPS the actual system 5v supply & real return low (grounding) then the wiper outputs can accurately measured between the output wiper terminal & system low.. As with most of the fueling computer sensors a high impedance meter should be used so as to not load the output & skew it’s voltage..

 

Twisty

 

[T__]

One other question: Do these bikes store fault codes for ease of dealer diagnosis?

 

Jeff, the dealer MoDiTec or GT 1 computer is more of real time type diagnostic tool (what’s happening now).. There seems to be some basic malfunction storage in the BMW (R bike) Ma 2.4 Motronic but I’m not sure how much is available to the MoDiTec or GT 1 or how much remains in non volatile ram after key down or battery disconnect.. (you’ll have to ask your dealer on this)

 

My gut feeling on a problem like you have is that unless you ride the bike in with the problem current & active the dealer will probably charge you a lot of diagnostic time to try different things to track the problem down unless it is something obvious like a failed sensor or shows up quickly after start of diagnosis..

 

If I were in your shoes I would do everything possible to eliminate as much as possible before a visit to your dealer..

 

Do the Techlusion & 02 disconnect,, maybe do a TPS voltage check (it isn’t that difficult),, definitely install new spark plugs with the proper electrode gap,, look for high resistance in the spark plug wires,, maybe do a fuel flow test..

 

Can you furnish us more info on when/how the problem started? Was it in the bike when you bought it? Has it gotten worse as you have ridden it more or do you think you are just noticing it more now? Did it appear worse after some other work you or somebody else has done on the bike? Was the bike stored for the off season? Anything else you can add here?

 

Twisty

 

[Peter Parts]

Peter, are you asking a legitimate question on that TPS or just looking for a lead in to

disagree with the answer?

 

I’ll assume this is a legitimate request so will answer.. (Please don’t prove this assumption wrong & turn this question into a hijack of jeff’s thread)

snip

 

To test the BMW TPS it should be in the vehicle as that gives the TPS the actual system 5v supply & real return low (grounding) then the wiper outputs can accurately measured between the output wiper terminal & system low.. As with most of the fueling computer sensors a high impedance meter should be used so as to not load the output & skew it’s voltage..

 

Twisty

 

Thanks for your explanation of how a pot works - not easy to try to explain simple things in simpler terms!

 

I was a staff scientist at Bell Labs long ago (ahem, ahem... and golly, I guess I really failed to get that sophistication across to some readers), so your careful basic explanation wasn't just for my reading but as a benefit to many others, as it should be.

 

Two pots, eh? Yes, that much was clear from the Bosch spec sheet I eyeballed. Do you have the ohms numbers for the two jobbies in there and how others can unhitch their TPS and test them, as you suggested above?

 

I tried all the pins and couldn't make sense of it - just didn't act like a pot or even two pots ganged in some way or two pots and a fixed resistor or something with a diode in there, etc. So it should have, you'd say, and you'd say my beat-up old spare TPS seems defective?

 

BTW, in testing the TPS and sensors in-situ, the 5 volts comes from a regulated source (the ECU) and so riders prolly don't have to fuss about running the engine or the state of the electrical system, so long as the ECU is powered-up.

 

Footnote: I never post stuff just to be provocative. But after many 40+ years on these boxers, I have come to a few opinions at variance with The Factory and its loving adherents. Anyway, takes two to get provoked.

 

[T__]

Peter, if you want to pursue this farther please either start a new thread on it or send me a PM.. I gave you the first answer as I thought it might be of some limited interest to Jeff (the original poster),, delving into it deeper here would be of no value added to Jeff or aid in solving HIS runability problem..

We don’t want to hijack this thread from him..

 

Twisty

 

[Quinn]

If you suspect it might be bad fuel, I'd suggest adding a can of SeaFoam to a full tank. It will provide some added octane (I think), clean the injectors, and disburse moisure. It's a cheap shot and can't hurt.

 

---

 

 

[David R]

I think I said this earlier in this thread, as twisty said completely unhook the techlusion. I Had the exact same problem. It was acting to me as if the motronic was re setting its self after warm start up. From a stumble to a total die of the engine. I would twist the throttle and it would "catch" or come back to life. Annoying as can be and unsafe.

 

The only way I can check the tps or accelerator pot is with a good scope. I know not everybody has one, but If it will trigger once the the voltage starts to change I can SEE (and save) the trace from beginning to end and any glitches. This is a 100 Mhz scope. An example is a guy had a diesel truck and he always held the throttle in the same place. After a few years it wore a spot in the pot. It could not be seen with a volt meter, but the scope picked it up right away. A glitch in the tps causes an immediate change in the fuel with out any change in the air flow so the engine stumbles. Or surges....

 

I still vote techlulsion is causing the stumble after a hot soak.

 

David

[jshdc]

Time for a follow-up: Prior to letting the dealer have his way with her, I decided to dump some Seafoam in the tank and filled it with Union 76 gas (previously tank was Shell). Went for a nice ride in the foothills and had one of the best rides I've ever had. Bike performed well. Surging seemed to be at a minimum - certainly within tolerable levels. So, I'm thinking one (or possibly a combination of all three) of the following:

 

1) Had a dirty fuel system (bike is an 02 with 19K... could've sat for extended periods without stabilizer and things maybe got a little gummy).

 

2) Bad tank of gas. It's happened to me before (not with this bike). You never know...

 

3) Still in the "learning curve" concerning the finer operations of the bike.

 

Plan of action is to ride to the coast today (rough plan of action, eh?) and see how she does. I'll report post-ride.

 

[Froggy]

I have been following this thread with extreme interest.jshdc,I feel 4 U,I also have similiar problems and with the help from these BMW Doctors I know that the patient will improve.

[jshdc]

Okay, here's my Report of Findings:

 

Took the bike on a 270 mile ride yesterday. Performed fine; however, I did have a little surging but I think I'm learning to control it (not that I'm happy with having to "learn" how to minimize it). I did still have the hot-start stumble. Again, it's easy to work around, but not something I particular care to work around.

 

Today was the day to install my new cam chaing tensioner. (Install went well, started the bike, "death rattle" gone.) I became curious though as to why my non-water-cooled bike was leaking water. I became even more curious as to why the water smelled like raw gas. I discovered a fuel leak where one of the fuel lines exits the fuel pump. It wasn't a small leak... gas pooled in the inside of my bottom faring piece (the one that joins the side farings - I don't know how long this was occurring since it's possible that the fairing was trapping the gas and the gas was evaporating before it spilled over onto the ground). Turns out the crimp clamp wasn't doing its job. Replaced the clamp and no more leak.

 

Sooo.... here's my new question: Would a fuel leak cause a problem such as the surging and/or the stumbling I've experiened? Would it affect a quality TB balance? (I haven't been able to test ride since the fix - it's raining, and I'll melt if I get wet.)

 

Thanks in advance for any responses.