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Replacing Front Wheel bearings


RoSPA_man

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Hi

I looked at the Service CD about replacing wheel bearings. Are the pullers needed anything special or specific? They also have various tools shown for inserting the new bearings - needed or would the traditional block of wood and rubber hammer be OK?

 

Also, is any particular bearing brand better than the variety of brands that BMW buy in ship as their own?

 

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RoSPA_man, lots of ways to get those bearings out of the wheel hub.. Sometime just using a conventional long drift you can move the center bearing spacer to the side just enough to get it on the far side inner bearing race then simply drive it out..

 

Personally I made a bolt up (as shown in the picture below).. All you really need is a short bolt or short round rod that fits the bearing center,, then use a hack saw & cut a slot in the bolt as shown.. Then just insert that bolt in the far side bearing & lay the head of the bolt on something hard (like a block of wood),, now drive a long screwdriver or narrow tapered instrument in the bolt slot then give it a couple of raps with a hammer.. That will expand that slotted bolt in the bearing center & allow the bearing to be driven out from the far side.. (actually works pretty darn good)..

 

For re-installation I have a very good bearing driver set but you can usually just use the old bearing to drive the new one in if the center races are not extended past the outer race..

 

As for new bearings-- you have a choice of BMW new,, or tracking some down from a bearing supply house or local auto parts store,, or someplace like Beemer Boneyard,, or try some of the online motorcycle parts supply places..

 

Twisty

 

 

BearingPuller.jpg

 

Twisty

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Dave_zoom_zoom

RoSPA_man, lots of ways to get those bearings out of the wheel hub.. Sometime just using a conventional long drift you can move the center bearing spacer to the side just enough to get it on the far side inner bearing race then simply drive it out..

 

Personally I made a bolt up (as shown in the picture below).. All you really need is a short bolt or short round rod that fits the bearing center,, then use a hack saw & cut a slot in the bolt as shown.. Then just insert that bolt in the far side bearing & lay the head of the bolt on something hard (like a block of wood),, now drive a long screwdriver or narrow tapered instrument in the bolt slot then give it a couple of raps with a hammer.. That will expand that slotted bolt in the bearing center & allow the bearing to be driven out from the far side.. (actually works pretty darn good)..

 

For re-installation I have a very good bearing driver set but you can usually just use the old bearing to drive the new one in if the center races are not extended past the outer race..

 

As for new bearings-- you have a choice of BMW new,, or tracking some down from a bearing supply house or local auto parts store,, or someplace like Beemer Boneyard,, or try some of the online motorcycle parts supply places..

 

Twisty

 

 

BearingPuller.jpg

 

Twisty

 

OK! So I'm not very computer literate!

 

This photo just shows up on my screen as a small red square in a small box. Can someone please tell me how to change that into a photo?

 

Thank You!

Dave

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Joe Frickin' Friday
RoSPA_man, lots of ways to get those bearings out of the wheel hub.. Sometime just using a conventional long drift you can move the center bearing spacer to the side just enough to get it on the far side inner bearing race then simply drive it out..

 

Haven't had the bearings out of my 1200RT front wheel yet, but I did replace the bearings on my 1100RT a couple of years ago. From your description, the setup sounds the same.

 

To remove mine, I found a short bolt whose diameter was about the same as the axle. I stuck it through one bearing, then welded it to the inner race. The welded-in bolt gives you a nice big place to pound on. So After warming up the hub with a heat gun, I stuck a drift in from the opposite side and pounded on the bolt, driving that bearing out. Spacer then falls out that side, and you have complete access to the remaining bearing to pound it out.

 

No fiddling with trying to pry the spacer out of the way or anything. If you have access to a welder, this works great. Also, bolt isn't necessary if you happen to have a chunk of roundstock lying around that's about the right diameter. No particular length required, anything from 3/4" long to a foot long. If you've got something closer to a foot long, you can stick it through from the far side, and pound directly on it, no drift required.

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Hello HC.

I had to replace the wheel bearing on my 05ST at about 25k miles due the LH one being, well knackered. It was as dry as a bone and I had been chasing a small knocking sensation I could feel when going over small ridges or rough road.

 

Anyway.

I used a long screwdriver, minus handle which I've had kicking about in my tool box for some years and it has removed a few bike wheel bearings. I drift them out from the other side but taking care to nudge it out slowly a bit at a time, working round the bearing

 

However on my R12ST, I had a b1tch of a job trying to get a hold on the edge of the bearing. The center tube was a very good fit.

I had to knock the center tube quite hard sideways to get it to move. Then I could get a purchase on the bearing.

 

Oh and I heated the area around the bearing with a hot air gun as well.

 

When you get them out and apart you'll find a couple of steel spacer plates press fit on the center spacer. These are the parts that are holding the center spacer true to center of the bearings. I Straightened one of mine out (I probaly bent it a bit when I forced the center tube sideways) and refitted them on the center spacer(after coating in grease as they are plain steel it appears!)

 

I must admit I used BMW bearings, didn't think about getting some from another source as I wanted to replace them ASAP in one day. However, I did prise of one seal on each bearing and pack it full of grease before I refitted the seal and the new bearings.

 

BTW I replaced the dust seals as well, and turn the short spacer on the LH side so the new bearing had a fresh smooth surface to run on. Grease up the seals a little to help then run on the spacer and shaft.

 

I like Twistys idea tho, another one is to use a large expanding bolt that one would use to bolt machinery or a U bolt for your bike chain to the floor. Get one which is the close to the bearing ID. slip it in, wind it up so it expands and grips the inner race,with the nut doing the expanding just inside but not so far as to spread the inner spacer I would think. then drift it out from tother side.

Not my idea, one I picked up somewhere so not tried it yet.

hth

Vince

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