R1200RT rear trunk issue

[VinnyR11]

Here's an issue I had with my trunk that could be a general problem with R1200RT rear trunks.

 

The locking mechanism on my 2009 R1200RT was getting very stiff to push in and out (I know you are very witty and there are a zillion jokes you want to make about that line, but let's get back to the point...)

 

As I was saying, the lock gets very stiff. It turns easily but is very difficult to push in to open the box. It got worse and worse until I was afraid it would just stay shut. I brought it in to the dealer yesterday. He contacted BMW, and it turns out to be a known issue and will be covered under warranty.

 

BMW told him there are "a series" of top boxes that have had this problem and the box can eventually lock shut being unable to open with the key. The tumblers are fine. It's a part behind the lock that needs to be replaced. They have a fix, but the parts are in Germany and will get here in 7 days. My dealer said the part they are sending does not show up on his current parts list. They also told him BMW most likely will be issuing a service announcement to dealers relating to this issue.

 

My issue started out as just a slightly tighter feel than I thought it should be. It got better for a while, and then became worse. If you think your top box lock is stiffer to push in than you imagined, it may be worth taking it in for a check.

[Sailorlite]

Does it help to push in on the "paddle" while turning the key? That was the answer for me on a small (28 L) topbox that was hard to open. (Of course getting parts replaced free at the dealer would be a better fix).

[99Roadster]

Vinny,

 

Which topcase is affected by this, the 49l, 28l or both?

[VinnyR11]

Does it help to push in on the "paddle" while turning the key? That was the answer for me on a small (28 L) topbox that was hard to open. (Of course getting parts replaced free at the dealer would be a better fix).

 

No. Tried that and it doesn't help at all. IMO, pushing in on the paddle shouldn't be required unless it was designed that way. If you need to do that, something is wrong with the design.

[VinnyR11]

Vinny,

 

Which topcase is affected by this, the 49l, 28l or both?

 

Mine is the 49l. I should have mentioned that in my original post. I don't know if it is an issue with the smaller box. I'm assuming the mechanisms are the same, but I'm not certain.

[oodude]

It happened to me. Could not open it. Took it to dealer and he got it open (felt like a fool).

 

But he didn't say anything about a recall or warranty repair.

 

[VinnyR11]

It happened to me. Could not open it. Took it to dealer and he got it open (felt like a fool).

 

But he didn't say anything about a recall or warranty repair.

 

You shouldn't feel like a fool. I went through that myself before bringing it to the dealer. There were times when it would be stuck, and then I'd finally manage to open it it. Then it would be OK for a while, but happen again at a later date. It finally happened so often that I brought it in.

 

IMO, a top box should open easily every single time.

 

There is no recall at this time. My dealer said that BMW told him they were most likely going to put out a service announcement on it. If it's a known issue, warranty repairs should be a bit easier. He got the OK in less than an hour.

[lawnchairboy]

thanks, mine does that.

[Killian]

You might benefit from a little of your favorite spray lubricant, that's what worked for me.

 

Don't bother lubricating the lock itself, instead, go for the latching mechanism. If your 49L is like mine, there are 4 silver hooks/tabs that stick down from the lid of the top case. With the lid open, find the 4 holes that those tabs go in to and squirt a modest amount of lube in there. Work it in a little by pushing the paddle down and releasing it with the lock button. It's been 6 months and the problem hasn't returned.

 

 

In the case of my buddy's.. uh.. case, he had to make some minor adjustments because he has a habit of cramming his top case too full causing the lid to bind and I'm pretty sure he bent his hinges a wee bit. It's normal for him to need to push down (using most of his weight) on the lid of his top case to get the lock button to push in.

 

With the lid open I used a flat file and widened the bottom of the opening on the hooks. I didn't go far, just a couple of strokes on each. The lock button has worked smoothly ever since.

 

 

[Penforhire]

I'm feeling this issue on one of my side cases. Wonder if the cause is the same?

[motorman587]

This happened on a trip with the wife last year. She over filled the darn thing and somehow got it shut. Had a very hard time opening it. Had both of us on top so the lever wound pop open. It was hard to open and shut after that. I started to look to see what the problem was. And if I can do this anybody can. If you pop the truck open, look down and see the two shiny pieces that move back and forth as you open and close the lever?? If you move the dust cover over those shiny piece just a hair you see grove that those pieces move in. One side popped out. I was able to, with a screw driver I believe, pop it back in. Has worked better than the day I got it. A little lube and pushing down a dab helps too.

[VinnyR11]

I'm feeling this issue on one of my side cases. Wonder if the cause is the same?

 

I was thinking the same thing. I would think they'd use a similar or same mechanism for the side cases. I'd mention this to your dealer. As I mentioned, BMW is aware of the problem on the top boxes, so it's not a crazy question.

[Jim VonBaden]

As far as I know most do this. A gentle push on the paddle while pushing the lock and it will pop open. One of mine is very hard though, probably from the accident.

 

Jim

[VinnyR11]

As far as I know most do this. A gentle push on the paddle while pushing the lock and it will pop open. One of mine is very hard though, probably from the accident.

 

Jim

 

Not in this case. There is something different going on.

[Jim VonBaden]

As far as I know most do this. A gentle push on the paddle while pushing the lock and it will pop open. One of mine is very hard though, probably from the accident.

 

Jim

 

Not in this case. There is something different going on.

 

Please explain! Is your paddle not popping up when you push the key button? Is the paddle a bit hard to lift? If so, that is exactly what I was saying.

 

Jim

[VinnyR11]

As far as I know most do this. A gentle push on the paddle while pushing the lock and it will pop open. One of mine is very hard though, probably from the accident.

 

Jim

 

Not in this case. There is something different going on.

 

Please explain! Is your paddle not popping up when you push the key button? Is the paddle a bit hard to lift? If so, that is exactly what I was saying.

 

Jim

 

Jim, as per my original post, the problem is not with the paddle popping up. The problem is that the key button does not push in at all. It started as just being stiff. I tried the lift levers/push down on top/whatever "fixes" and nothing worked.

 

The key turns very easily, and when the key does push in, the paddles and case open and close as they should; however, over time the key button became more and more stiff when pushing it in. Finally it locked up so badly that I had to lay on it with everything I had just to push the key button in to get it to open and remove it from the bike.

 

When the dealer checked with BMW they said this is a known issue and there is a fix in the works, replacing a part that my dealer says does not even show on his parts "sheets". BMW said that they have seen boxes with this problem that eventually just would not open.

[Dave_C]

I'm feeling this issue on one of my side cases. Wonder if the cause is the same?

 

+1

[lvnvbiker]

I always had to put some pressure on the paddle on mine to get it open... Thumb pressure on the paddle and middle finger to push the button was my trick, and with out pressure on the paddle it would not budge. I used some silicone lube spray and it helped a bunch when sprayed in and around the button and down all the latching areas, but it still needed some help from the paddle... YMMV

[BanjoBoy]

I have a brand new GIVI, and it was stiff and funky, so I spewed a bunch of "dry" graphite in the locking mechanism, & "paddle", and now it works great.

[oodude]

Thanks. The dealer did say to try squirting some WD-40 in the holes.

 

 

[Green RT]

oodude, I have always been told that dry graphite like BanjoBoy recommended was better for locks. WD-40 collects grit more than graphite.

[Toad]

What is the "PADDLE"

 

 

[CoarsegoldKid]

I'm feeling this issue on one of my side cases. Wonder if the cause is the same?

I find that sometimes on the side cases I must depress the lever and turn the key. Depressing the lever I hear a noticeable click almost like it had been designed that way. Been that way for 4 years. Perhaps a bit of lube would help.

[BanjoBoy]

What is the "PADDLE" What I'm gonna use to spank that behind in yer avatar!

 

On the GIVI the paddle is what you push to lock the trunk. Like I said I slathered everything in there with dry graphite. Dry is better than "wet" lube because nothing sticks to it. I'll admit that sometimes I use a "wet" lube on some locks because they're horizontal, and it can be hard to get graphite in there.

But with a trunk, you can take it off and turn it any which way so the dry graphite penetrates the proper places.

Ask any locksmith and they'll always tell you to use graphite.

[Killian]

Ask any locksmith and they'll always tell you to use graphite.

 

One of the problems with graphite is that it tends to corrode steel and aluminum if it gets wet or is used in a damp environment. The air force banned the use of graphite for this very reason.

 

And WD40 does great at the Water Displacement thing it was designed to do but here in the dry climate of Phoenix I've found that it often acts like a dust magnet.

 

Most of my fellow locksmiths stopped using graphite long ago and switched to Teflon based lubricants such as TriFlow.

http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Superior_Drip/superior_drip.html

[Buff]

My 49L case did it too. Got harder and harder to push the key/button in. Girlfriend could not do it anymore and I thought I was gonna break my thumb trying. Took it to the dealer. He tried it. Asked me to pop the case off and he walked away with it. Came back in 15 minutes with a brand new case. No charge. Problem has not repeated.

[VinnyR11]

My 49L case did it too. Got harder and harder to push the key/button in. Girlfriend could not do it anymore and I thought I was gonna break my thumb trying. Took it to the dealer. He tried it. Asked me to pop the case off and he walked away with it. Came back in 15 minutes with a brand new case. No charge. Problem has not repeated.

 

UPDATE:

 

That turned out to be the final solution in my case as well, although it took a few weeks of waiting for BMW to approve the replacement to get there . I was away for a couple of those weeks, so I wasn't going nuts.

 

BMW finally sent the parts for the fix to the dealer; however, it required special rivets that were not included. (Note: None of the above WD-40, push the handle, or other known fixes would work.) After my dealer, Gold Coast, did some more haggling with BMW they finally approved the warranty swap, and I have a new trunk that works fine.