Wrench before 12K service, or not?

[EddyQ]

My '07 RT is needing the 12Kmi service and after the current tank of gas is done, I will make the appointment. But, I was wondering if it would be better to do my own valve adjust and TB sync? Really take the time required to make it perfect.

 

Keep in mind, I've never done either. But, I consider myself more than capable. I already built a manometer and have feeler guages. No GS-911 and no fear.

 

I am asuming the dealer will not mess with the valves or TB if my tune was perfect.

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

[Firefight911]

Why take it in at all?

 

Just do the work, document it, save the receipts and ride ride ride!

 

Never having done it means it will take you 20 minutes longer than the rest of us. Well, and maybe one more beer.

[EddyQ]

Why take it in at all?

 

I've very often considered that. That's when I built my manometer a year ago. But after the 5Kmi service, it really ran great. The dealer trip is not only more expensive, it very well could be more of my time.

 

The complete (full ABS) brake fluid flush is my main reason (which is not part of the 12Kmi service, but I think it is due).

I have no fear of bleeding, but isn't a full flush a bit more involved?

 

Other than that, most is inspections and an oil change which I can easily do. I've never messed with the brake shoes, but what I have read, they are quite simple. Donno. Maybe I should do it all.

 

[99Roadster]

A full brake flush on your '07 is just a standard flush. And ya it's probably more than due if it was never previously done. The brakes are quite simple to service, the fronts pads can be removed without touching the calipers.

 

If you're going to do the valves and TBS you might as well do the rest since it's just fluid changes.

[Don_Eilenberger]

There isn't any real reason to mess with the brake pads unless they're worn. While it might be nice to push the pistons back into the calipers when doing the brake fluid flush, I'd bet you dollars to donuts that the dealer doesn't do that. There is nothing to be done on the clutch circuit since they switched that to mineral oil. And I can tell you how to activate the ABS unit for the flush..*

 

Chances are also excellent that if you do an anal valve adjustment, your throttle body sync will be perfect without touching the adjusters. That's been my experience so far (at 34,000 miles now.. have never adjusted it - just checked it after doing the valves.) The hexhead engines don't seem to wander out of adjustment like the oilheads were prone to.

 

There is a lot of satisfaction to DIY on these bikes, especially when you know you got it JUST right.

 

* - activating the ABS unit for flushing the brakes:

 

With the bike on the centerstand, ignition on - spin the rear wheel, press on the rear brake pedal, you'll feel it buzz as the ABS is applied. Then repeat this with the front lever. It seems the ABS is sensitive enough to trigger at wheel-spinning speeds if it sees the front wheel stopped and the rear wheel turning, even slowly. I've done this while bleeding both the front and rear circuits. Of note - with the ignition off - the front lever will NOT "link" to the rear wheel. With the ignition on - it will. This also seems a good test that the ABS is working correctly.

[GordonB]

The brake fluid flush will cost you just under $100 at the dealer. You could perform all the 12K svc and let the dlr do the flush. Or change out the FD, Trans, Engine Oil and let the dlr do the valves and syncs.

Many dlrs replace valve cover gaskets at 12K, ask them to reuse 'em to save money.

[tallman]

If your bike is in warranty, and you want the dealer to stamp the book that the Xk service is "done", most likely they will inspect the valves, hook up the bike and read the TB.

Do what makes you feel comfortable.

It's your bike.

Best wishes.

[EddyQ]

* - activating the ABS unit for flushing the brakes:

 

With the bike on the centerstand, ignition on - spin the rear wheel, press on the rear brake pedal, you'll feel it buzz as the ABS is applied. Then repeat this with the front lever. It seems the ABS is sensitive enough to trigger at wheel-spinning speeds if it sees the front wheel stopped and the rear wheel turning, even slowly. I've done this while bleeding both the front and rear circuits. Of note - with the ignition off - the front lever will NOT "link" to the rear wheel. With the ignition on - it will. This also seems a good test that the ABS is working correctly.

 

So what exactly is happening when that buzz occurs? Where is brake fluid flowing? If I have the master cylinder cover off will I be sorry?

 

 

[Don_Eilenberger]

So what exactly is happening when that buzz occurs? Where is brake fluid flowing? If I have the master cylinder cover off will I be sorry?

The ABS pump is activating. And dunno - haven't done it with the master cylinder cover off..

[JayW]

Chances are also excellent that if you do an anal valve adjustment, your...body sync will be perfect...

 

Yes, but this sounds so painful, I wonder if the effect would be worth it?

 

Jay

[EddyQ]

So what exactly is happening when that buzz occurs? Where is brake fluid flowing? If I have the master cylinder cover off will I be sorry?

The ABS pump is activating. And dunno - haven't done it with the master cylinder cover off..

 

I think JVB Link is how to bleed front and rear wheel circuits. How would you add your technique to bleed the ABS control circuits?