Outright Failure of Paralever Pivot Bearings

[moshe_levy]

All-

 

I am writing a new article for MCN on installation of the JL Paralever Oilite bushing kit. Everything went smoothly putting the kit on my (now former) 2004 RT, and my original pivot bearings were worn, but not utterly failed. I would like to mention in the article what the symptoms of outright failure are. I would imagine loads of side to side play of the FD assembly would be one sign. Maybe the FD frozen in place would be another. Are there more? I imagine both of these are serious safety concerns if they happen while in motion.

 

Anybody have a list of telltale signs of outright total failure of the OEM PL pivot bearings?

 

-MKL

[Paul Mihalka]

That again must be one of those some have it/some don't problems. I sold my '99 R1100RT with 175K miles and the bearings were fine without play.

[Pierce]

Which are the pivot bearings? By the tranny/swingarm, or at the final drive?

[moshe_levy]

The pivot bearings are at the final drive, allowing the FD to swing up and down on the rear swingarm - these are the ones some have problems with. I haven't heard of the tranny/swingarm bearings being an issue.

 

-MKL

[Peter Parts]

Play in the "wheel bearings" and the idiotic Paralever can be explored precisely using a dial test indicator with a magnetic base. A humongous hex wrench is part of the set-up.

 

There is essentially no logical way to install the JL bearings and use Locktite. That doesn't mean you can't do it exactly as the instructions say. But the Locktite drill makes later snug-ups forbidding... and I ALWAYS need a snug-up down the road.

 

JL bearings a very good improvement over the stock foolishness. Betcha a lot of people who spend a fortune to get Ohlins shocks for marginal handling benefits are riding around with squiggly Paralever bearings.

[Dave C.]

Play in the "wheel bearings" and the idiotic Paralever can be explored precisely using a dial test indicator with a magnetic base. A humongous hex wrench is part of the set-up.

 

There is essentially no logical way to install the JL bearings and use Locktite. That doesn't mean you can't do it exactly as the instructions say. But the Locktite drill makes later snug-ups forbidding... and I ALWAYS need a snug-up down the road.

 

JL bearings a very good improvement over the stock foolishness. Betcha a lot of people who spend a fortune to get Ohlins shocks for marginal handling benefits are riding around with squiggly Paralever bearings.

 

Not wishing to start a fight but I installed the JL bushings per the instructions and after 45 days and one thousand miles the JL bushings were toast. I installed the "improved" BMW bearings and they have been great after 25 thousand miles.

 

That being said I started taking apart my bike because when I got home on Friday the garage filled with smoke and a puddle started to form under the bike. Come to find out I am leaking tranny fluid and I am now in the process of taking the trans out to replace the seal that failed. When I removed the final draive one of the bearings went pop as I removed the pivot pin and the outer race came apart. So now I need to get a new one. Oh well after 102K miles I might as well see what I need to replace while I am in there with the tail in the air.

 

dave

[moshe_levy]

Dave-

 

In researching the JL bearings I have discovered a few possible causes for early failure, all of which are due to installation faults or using the wrong type of threadlocker or lube. I think the article I'm writing will serve as an installation guide, since in my opinion the instructions that come with the kit are not as complete as they could be.

 

-MKL

[Selden]

...in my opinion the instructions that come with the kit are not as complete as they could be.

That's putting it kindly. I'm looking forward to the article, so that others aren't left scratching their heads the way I was. The most confusing part for me was the use of Loctite on the bronze bushing, which seems counter-intuitive.

[Temeneos]

..... I installed the "improved" BMW bearings and they have been great after 25 thousand miles.

 

dave

 

Dave -

 

I had not heard there was an improved BMW bearing. I was planning on getting the JL bushings sometime soon to have the piece of mind and avoid bearing failures. An improved BMW bearing might change my mind. Tell me more!

[T__]

MKL, TOTAL bearing failure would be about like any other TOTAL bearing failure,, the thing would come apart..

 

Now I doubt anybody would or could ride that far to total bearing failure.. More than likely it wouldn’t get any farther than all the needles self destructing & a LOT of play showing up..

 

Even with all the bearing needles gone the tapered stud pin would still be retained by the outer bearing race.. Would be a lot clunking & clacking while going over bumps or sharp braking.. I would also imagine the bikes handling would be darty & not very precise..

 

I guess personally I’m not altogether sold on replacing those bearings with bushings.. In theory it sounds good but those areas have bearings for a reason (be a lot cheaper for BMW to just use bronze bushings as OEM)..

 

Bushing take a lot of grease & periodic greasing to stay happy & tight.. I would feel a lot better about installing bushings if the pins were drilled & grease zerks added..

 

I suppose how the bike is used & loaded makes a difference.. If the bike is ridden on relatively smooth roads with moderate loads then the bushings might show an advantage as bushing work a lot better under little rotational movement & in-place shock loads.. If the bike is going to be ridden with lots of suspension movement that is where the needle bearings start to show their stuff..

 

Personally I haven’t ever worn a set of OEM bearing out on one of my bikes but I do re-grease the needles at about 30,000 mile intervals.. I can’t believe those bushings will go 30,000 miles without re-greasing & adjusting either..

 

 

Twisty

 

[David R]

My paralever bearings were a little loose on a 2000 R1100RT. I could feel rear wheel steering just like when the wheel bearings on my /6 were loose. I heated the locktite and adjusted the bearings until there was no play. Installed the lock nut and marked it with a paint pen.

 

That was at 101,000 miles. Now 107,000 still fine.

 

Yeah, I know I did it wrong, no torque wrench, BUT it works for me. Its a tapered roller bearing and no play should be near perfect. I had to turn the stud about one hex to remove the slop. It was a temporary repair at the time. We will see how long it lasts. If the original bearings made it 100,000 miles, then a new set should go just as long. I think I'll stick with bearings.

 

David

[moshe_levy]

Thanks Twisty - that's what I was looking for. That's the only part of the article I wasn't sure of, since my RT's bearings were only worn, but not failed. I think the procedure I am writing about, which is Tom Cutter's, will shed new light on some of the mysteries of the installation. Various techniques call for various methods (I've seen Paul Glaves' article, and a few others online) but Cutter's way of doing things by "feel" may make things easier for the layman (like myself) to understand.

 

-MKL

[effexer1]

I have some movement at 6 and 12, and was planning on installing the bronze bushings. After reading this thread, I'm going to remove the bearings, and if they don't look bad, I'll grease them and re-install.

 

Is is worth taking on this chance?

 

[awagnon]

From what I've seen on this and other forums, the pivot bearings closest to the final drive are commonly worn if checked at disassembly around 30K - 40K. However, the pivot bearings nearest the tranny tend not to wear out and they probably shouldn't be replaced with bushings. This has been my experience and I replaced the rear-most pivot bearings at 40,000 miles at the time of my spline failure. The front bearings looked like new and still do at 65,000 miles when I disassembled everything to lube my splines a few weeks ago. YMMV.

[Dave C.]

When I replaced the bearings with BMW ones the parts guy said that these are new and improved. Since the original ones lasted over 75K miles I can't complain.

 

The ones I that I put in worked great right until I took them apart last night. The trans oil leak that I thought I had turned out to be a drain plug on the very bottom of the trans housing that was loose. Oh well at least I lubed the splines while I wad the trans out. The clutch looked good along with everything else'

 

I figure if the bearings get me another 75K miles I can't complain.

 

Dave

[Dave C.]

Dave-

 

In researching the JL bearings I have discovered a few possible causes for early failure, all of which are due to installation faults or using the wrong type of threadlocker or lube. I think the article I'm writing will serve as an installation guide, since in my opinion the instructions that come with the kit are not as complete as they could be.

 

-MKL

 

I understand were you are coming from. I am a facilities mechanic and work on all different types of equipment so this is not my first dance but, after seeing the bearings after a couple of thousand miles I that the original design was good enough for another 75K miles.

 

Dave

[Jim VonBaden]

Dave-

 

In researching the JL bearings I have discovered a few possible causes for early failure, all of which are due to installation faults or using the wrong type of threadlocker or lube. I think the article I'm writing will serve as an installation guide, since in my opinion the instructions that come with the kit are not as complete as they could be.

 

-MKL

 

Moshe,

 

In my experience the only way the JL bushings will fail is an initial installation error. They are a little difficult to get properly seated, but if you do, they wont fail.

 

If Dave is the same one from ADV Rider, the pictures of the bushings posted were obviously incorrectly installed IMHO. The wear was so off center the only way that it could happen was if the bushing was partially seated.

 

As for total failure of the paralever bushings, it is essentially the same thing. If the slack isn't adjusted out of them regularly, a space developes that allows the bearing races to come apart and fail. Even the worst failure I have seen did not allow the FD to come off the bike, but it was very sloppy!

 

Jim

 

PS On my Repair DVD I installed a set of JL Bushings, and the instructions are a bit lacking, but not totally unreadable. The locktite doesn't go on the contact side of the bushing, it goes on the pin so the bushing moves with the pin, and not on the pin.

[Jim VonBaden]

Here is a picture from ADV Rider:

 

 

 

If you look at the damage, it seems obvious that the installation was not done right. That wear, in so short a time, could only happen if the pin was not fully installed IMHO.

 

Jim

 

[moshe_levy]

Jim-

 

Agreed. I've got 13 pictures in this article and I wrote it as sort of a step by step, as I followed Tom through the procedure. Hopefully it will be useful to readers.

 

You say you have this on a DVD? Which one?

 

-MKL

[Dave C.]

Dave-

 

In researching the JL bearings I have discovered a few possible causes for early failure, all of which are due to installation faults or using the wrong type of threadlocker or lube. I think the article I'm writing will serve as an installation guide, since in my opinion the instructions that come with the kit are not as complete as they could be.

 

-MKL

 

Moshe,

 

In my experience the only way the JL bushings will fail is an initial installation error. They are a little difficult to get properly seated, but if you do, they wont fail.

 

If Dave is the same one from ADV Rider, the pictures of the bushings posted were obviously incorrectly installed IMHO. The wear was so off center the only way that it could happen was if the bushing was partially seated.

 

As for total failure of the paralever bushings, it is essentially the same thing. If the slack isn't adjusted out of them regularly, a space developes that allows the bearing races to come apart and fail. Even the worst failure I have seen did not allow the FD to come off the bike, but it was very sloppy!

 

Jim

 

PS On my Repair DVD I installed a set of JL Bushings, and the instructions are a bit lacking, but not totally unreadable. The locktite doesn't go on the contact side of the bushing, it goes on the pin so the bushing moves with the pin, and not on the pin.

 

I am not on ADV rider. The way I seated the bearings was with a piece of all thread and two sockets that were slightly smaller than the OD of the bushings.

 

Dave

[Jim VonBaden]

Jim-

 

Agreed. I've got 13 pictures in this article and I wrote it as sort of a step by step, as I followed Tom through the procedure. Hopefully it will be useful to readers.

 

You say you have this on a DVD? Which one?

 

-MKL

 

I just released the latest DVD, the Repair DVD. It is on that one.

 

Jim

[Jim VonBaden]

Dave-

 

In researching the JL bearings I have discovered a few possible causes for early failure, all of which are due to installation faults or using the wrong type of threadlocker or lube. I think the article I'm writing will serve as an installation guide, since in my opinion the instructions that come with the kit are not as complete as they could be.

 

-MKL

 

Moshe,

 

In my experience the only way the JL bushings will fail is an initial installation error. They are a little difficult to get properly seated, but if you do, they wont fail.

 

If Dave is the same one from ADV Rider, the pictures of the bushings posted were obviously incorrectly installed IMHO. The wear was so off center the only way that it could happen was if the bushing was partially seated.

 

As for total failure of the paralever bushings, it is essentially the same thing. If the slack isn't adjusted out of them regularly, a space developes that allows the bearing races to come apart and fail. Even the worst failure I have seen did not allow the FD to come off the bike, but it was very sloppy!

 

Jim

 

PS On my Repair DVD I installed a set of JL Bushings, and the instructions are a bit lacking, but not totally unreadable. The locktite doesn't go on the contact side of the bushing, it goes on the pin so the bushing moves with the pin, and not on the pin.

 

I am not on ADV rider. The way I seated the bearings was with a piece of all thread and two sockets that were slightly smaller than the OD of the bushings.

 

Dave

 

Dave, is it possible that one slipped loose when you pulled the allthread out?

 

By the way, that is not how the directions read, though I agree the directions were lacking a bit.

 

Jim

[RBertalotto]

but I installed the JL bushings per the instructions and after 45 days and one thousand miles the JL bushings were toast.

 

So a set of JL bushings failed in 1000 miles and then a set of standard BMW bearings "popped" and failed when disassembled? VERY strange.......I have to suspect improper installation. There is very little movement on the pivot bushings, this (IMO) is why a conventional roller bearing is inappropriate in this use. And why they fail. With such little movement I can't imagine how they could fail, to any level, within 1000 miles.

 

I have a complete "How To Install BMW Pivot Bushings" on my web site. Check it out

www.rvbprecision.com

[Jim VonBaden]

but I installed the JL bushings per the instructions and after 45 days and one thousand miles the JL bushings were toast.

 

So a set of JL bushings failed in 1000 miles and then a set of standard BMW bearings "popped" and failed when disassembled? VERY strange.......I have to suspect improper installation. There is very little movement on the pivot bushings, this (IMO) is why a conventional roller bearing is inappropriate in this use. And why they fail. With such little movement I can't imagine how they could fail, to any level, within 1000 miles.

 

I have a complete "How To Install BMW Pivot Bushings" on my web site. Check it out

www.rvbprecision.com

 

Nice installation pictorial!

 

I did it slightly differently. I tapped the races in instead of using a piece of allthread. Plus I allowed the tightness of the pin in the bushing. You don't want the bushing pivoting on the pin, you want it pivoting on the race you tapped in. That is why the locktite on the pin, to keep it stationary.

 

I suspect your point about not getting the races all the way seated may be how some end up in trouble. Once you seat the pin and bushing on a not fully seated race, the race will move with force from the pivoting action creating a large gap. the added movement will very quickly destroy the bronze bushing!

 

 

Jim

 

 

[RBertalotto]

Plus I allowed the tightness of the pin in the bushing.

Understood. But be careful, the reason the designer of the bushing advises this is because some of the bronze bushings have split if too tight. Sintered bronze has great wear characteristics but it doesn't like to "stretch"

 

I tapped the races in instead of using a piece of allthread.

I tried this on the first conversion I did....wasn't pleasant. Very difficult to get them to go straight. I'm going to be making a took for sale (or rent) to seat these bushings using a piece of fine thread rod and a couple of hard aluminum bosses that I'll turn on my lath that will index properly to seat the races properly. This is the correct way to go.

 

I suspect your point about not getting the races all the way seated may be how some end up in trouble.

No question! I've seen it two or three times. Folks don't realize how much force it takes to seat these races properly. But there is a ton of force on them when the bike is leaned over and cornering. The races will now seat and the whole contraption loosens up.

 

Thanks for all your help BTW..........Your posts are invaluable!

[Jim VonBaden]

I see what you are saying. But if the bushing is properly machined it will automatically have a snug fit. It cirtainly should not be so tight you must hammer the pin in. I didn't have that issue. I didn't see that they said anything about sanding down the pin either. Did I miss that in the instructions?

 

I had no issues tapping the races in. I gently tapped them to get them started, then used an appropriately sized socket and extension to hold them straight. I guess if you start them crooked you could have difficulty, but using allthread can cause the same issue if you don't start them straight.

 

Jim

[RBertalotto]

Did I miss that in the instructions?

 

I can't locate it now, but I thought my last kit came with an addendum to the installation instructions talking about sanding down the pins for a nice slip fit. I'll keep looking.

[RBertalotto]

I contacted Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing for clarification.....Stay tuned....

[moshe_levy]

Roy-

 

Not to steal Tom's thunder, but I did just go through this step by step with him for the article. The bushings do indeed need to sit flush against the pivot pin shoulders prior to installation. Dress sanding lightly with 400 grit is recommended if they don't sit flush. That IS in the instructions.

 

-MKL

[RBertalotto]

OK, just heard back from Tom. He sent me this quote.....

 

"If the fit is too tight, use sandpaper (400 grit WetorDry works well) to ‘dress’ the PIN until the bushing fits correctly. Forcing the pin can cause sudden fracture and failure of the pivot connection."

 

This is part of an installation addendum that comes with the kit. He tells me the instructions are being re-written to include this information for future kits.

 

Hope this helps........

[Jim VonBaden]

OK, so I didn't miss it.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

[nrp]

In my pre-retirement days I worked a lot with needle bearings that were rotated very little but were heavily loaded in high-cycle fatigue. Among other things we always used only a calcium based helicopter grease (AeroShell 14) but its shortcoming was that it isn't very good around water. Even so, it was absolutely amazing to see the loads that could be applied to needle and tapered roller bearings, providing they were re-lubed on occasion.

 

It is easy to put way too much preload on these bearings. BMW calls out a torque, (which could be excessive in itself) but I suggest they be set up for as near to zero lash as possible but absolutely no more. The locking nut method makes it hard to know just where you are with torque wrench setups.

 

I'm at this stage on my winter project R1100RT spline lube job so I may have more revelations in a couple of days..........

[Selden]

Needle or oiled bronze, I'm in the camp of adjusting the preload by minute amounts until play just disappears, then lock in place with the big nut, being careful that the adjusting bolt doesn't turn further.

[moshe_levy]

My article will discuss a slightly different way of doing it, by feel more than by numbers. I also will show a tool that allows you to torque the locknut (with a torque wrench) while simultaneously holding the pivot pin stationary. Should be out hopefully in a few months. I learned alot from watching Tom, as usual.

 

-MKL

[nrp]

My article will discuss a slightly different way of doing it, by feel more than by numbers. I also will show a tool that allows you to torque the locknut (with a torque wrench) while simultaneously holding the pivot pin stationary.

I agree that feel is a better way. (Does Harbor Freight have a pipe wrench with a torque indicator in it?)

[NonComp]

Needle or oiled bronze, I'm in the camp of adjusting the preload by minute amounts until play just disappears, then lock in place with the big nut, being careful that the adjusting bolt doesn't turn further.

I tried this last time, and they loosened up on me after a couple of thou. I'm going to reset them this winter, and this time I'm going to torque them to BMW specs. I bought a 1/4" drive torque wrench and a reverse adapter set so that I can put the big socket on the small wrench.

[effexer1]

When tightening car tapered wheel bearings, we tighten them a bit too tight, to elimiate grease compression, then back the nut off until a bit slack, then tighten again until just tight and just right. Would this method work on this type of tapered needle bearing?

[awagnon]

Needle or oiled bronze, I'm in the camp of adjusting the preload by minute amounts until play just disappears, then lock in place with the big nut, being careful that the adjusting bolt doesn't turn further.

 

When I've done mine on several occasions, I torque the pivot pin to specs with red Loctite on the threads. I let them harden over night and then torque the lock nut. I also mark the pivot pin with a sharpie to see if it has turned. Never has.

[Jim VonBaden]

 

When I've done mine on several occasions, I torque the pivot pin to specs with red Loctite on the threads. I let them harden over night and then torque the lock nut. I also mark the pivot pin with a sharpie to see if it has turned. Never has.

 

Yup, that is how I do it. But I found you only need to let it sit a few minutes. The Sharpie mark is a good way of ensuring you didn't move the pin.

 

I would go with factory specs if you have a torque wrench. But if not, do it to the same torque as you apply to your valve adjuster nut. By feel is fine. I also agree with a slight over torque, then back off and retorque. Just like wheel bearings on old Checy trucks.

 

Jim

[Dave Faria]

I saw the BMW tool for tourquing and locking the adjustment in place several years ago and made it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on the suze. It is a deep 27mm socket with about 1/3 of the side cut out. About 5/8inch of the original nut end was left. With that slot you can slip in the allen and hold the bearing load while locking the nut. On my bike the preload actually loosens when the locking nut is torqued. It may take one more preload adjustment before the thread locker cures. I cut the slot in the socket with a Dremel tool and high speed cutting wheel. Took about an hour to cut the slot in the socket. The socket was an impact socket which is why it took so long.

 

Use your allen wrench to determine the slot size.

[Jim VonBaden]

IIRC it is 32mm.

 

How did you determine that your pin loosened when torquing the lock nut? Seems counterintuitive that the pin would back off as you tighten the locknut.

 

Jim

[T__]

Jim, I have seen the same thing,, the pin doesn’t actually move (rotation wise) the lock nut tends to pull the pin outward against (& into) the alloy threads in casting therefore opening the clearance of the pin to bearing slightly..

 

Probably the tighter the threads fit the less outward movement upon lock nut tightening..

 

You guys that use the red loc-tite on the pin then let it set up “before” torquing the lock nut probably don’t see this (at least right off the get go)..

 

Twisty

 

[moshe_levy]

Per instructions, the ONLY approved threadlocker to use is #270 (green)...

 

-MKL

[T__]

MKL, per the Loc-Tite specifications I have handy here not a lot of difference between the green 270 & the red 272 for this type of application.. A slightly different cure time & age degradation but the heat to release is very close & break away torque is very close..

 

The only place the 270 seems to show some benefit is in locking brass,, is the inner tapered pin Lock-Tighted to the brass bushing? If so then the 270 would be a much better choice..

 

 

Twisty

 

[Jim VonBaden]

Jim, I have seen the same thing,, the pin doesnt actually move (rotation wise) the lock nut tends to pull the pin outward against (& into) the alloy threads in casting therefore opening the clearance of the pin to bearing slightly..

 

Probably the tighter the threads fit the less outward movement upon lock nut tightening..

 

You guys that use the red loc-tite on the pin then let it set up before torquing the lock nut probably dont see this (at least right off the get go)..

 

Twisty

 

That makes sense that the locknut could actually reduce the tension on the pin, but how would you know for sure, and how would you measure it? THAT I don't get.

 

Seems that using the special tool to hold the pin from moving, which it doesn't normally anyhow, would make no difference in the nut pulling tension off the pin.

 

What am I missing?

 

Jim

[Selden]

I don't think this will affect the preload, but if you use the "adjust to feel" technique, I don't see that it would matter if it did. Snug up the adjuster until there is no wheel movement, then tighten the lock nut. If the wheel moves, loosen the locknut, turn the adjuster bolt a smidge, and repeat.

[T__]

Jim, I’m not sure you are missing anything.. I’m sure there is some of that pin movement into the threads even when using the special tool to hold the pin while torquing the nut.. The torque value was probably determined using new pristine parts with fresh cut threads & no residual Loc-Tite remaining in the threads,, & no side loading on the pin.. ..

 

From what I have seen on those BMW pins & alloy castings there seems to be some with looser thread engagement than others then sometimes some of the threads will come out on the original LocTite..

 

I never torque those pins myself as I have no confidence in a proper torquing of that pin with the unit still in the bike & the weight hanging on the pin causing thread drag.. I have tried using a torque wrench a couple of times & ended up going a little tighter & going by feel anyway..

 

I would feel a lot more comfortable with a torque setting a lot higher than that low initial then a certain angular back up of the pin to get to final setting.. With those coarse threads & very low torque setting it is a feely thing even when using a torque wrench as speed of torque wrench movement,, if the torque wench is stopped then re-started,, lubricity of locking agent,, viscosity of grease used,, weight hanging on the pin,, etc,, all effect the final bearing to pin tightness..

 

I really can’t comment on those bushing installs as that is a whole different bag of worms on those..

 

 

Twisty

 

[NonComp]

I guess "not an exact science" sums it up. I just need to relax when I do this. I get all paranoid about the locktite setting up too soon. I need to just take a deep breath, and work through it to get it right before I put the locknut on.

 

I just picked up an RT shock to put on at the same time, so will be looking forward to this job in the coming weekends

[Dave C.]

IIRC it is 32mm.

 

How did you determine that your pin loosened when torquing the lock nut? Seems counterintuitive that the pin would back off as you tighten the locknut.

 

Jim

 

On mine it is a 30 mm.

 

Dave

[Jim VonBaden]

I knew it , oh well, 30-32, close enough! LOL

 

Twisty, looks like we agree! Thanks for the explaination!

 

Jim