Concerns for a 1999 with only 6000 miles?

[richs]

What concerns would you have for a 1999 R1100RT with only 6000 miles? It is in a humid place so I doubt anything has dried out...

[NonComp]

How long has it been sitting?

[philbytx]

Ok....Yes! You definitely will have some concerns.

FYI - I purchased a 2000 R1100R with only 6750 miles on it a couple of years ago and it had been rarely used then stored in an unheated/airconditioned aircraft hangar for a couple of years with a Battery Tender and Stabil in the tank. Even so, I drained the tank and refilled with fresh 93 octane gas with a can of Techron in it.

 

Assuming you will do an engine/filter change and if the following were done within the past couple of years, ignore:

 

 

1. Check date of tires. Mine were original and definitely needing replacement! Also, new valves/stems.

2. Rubber hoses. Check all vacuum, brake and fuel hoses for crumbling/cracking. Several of mine needed replacing, mainly the vacuum hoses.

3. Brakes. You will need to flush and fill the ABS system, not forgetting to flush the 2 bleeders on the ABS unit!

While you are doing the brake bleed, ensure that the brake pistons push back easily.

4. Battery. Unless a couple of years old, I would replace and add the later model R1150RT "jumper kit items" to it.

5. Gearbox and F/D seals. This could be an issue if the bike has been sitting for a while as you may find that the seals could have developed a leak. I checked inside the rear boot on my R1100R paralever and discovered around 1/3 cup of tranny oil which appeared to have come from the gearbox output seal. In my case, I drained and refilled the gearbox and F/D and added some LUCAS Gearbox additive to the gearbox (I used it before to cure a leaking seal in my BMW cage manual gearbox). I mixed it 50/50 with Mobil1 75w140. After 500 miles, I checked the boot again and discovered just a tiny amount and it is still dry after another 7000 miles! I

t is recommended to use 75w90 in your Final Drive and a lot of folks, myself included, use synthetics.

6. Check your air filter for critters.

4. R&R your alternator belt.

5. Two weak points on the R1100's are the HE Sensor and the Valeo Starter. The HE sensor wiring is a weak spot. Mine went after only 8750 miles or so, making it not mileage related! The starter magnets are known for detaching and causing hard starting. You can replace the 'Can' which contains the magnets to save some money. HERE is a link to EuroMotoElectrics showing just the can. If you are handy, it is way cheaper than $200 for a new starter

 

 

I'm sure I (and a lot of others!) will think of more...my brain hurts. FYI - I've had the R for 2 years now and it runs like a champ. Progressive and preventative maintenance is a wonderful thing .

 

 

[OoPEZoO]

What concerns would you have for a 1999 R1100RT with only 6000 miles? It is in a humid place so I doubt anything has dried out...

 

getting it into my garage before someone else buys it....

 

Phil pretty much covered it. Personally, I would change all the fluids, check the valves, sync the throttle bodies, slap a new alternator belt on it, give it a good once over, and ride the hell out of it.

[upflying]

What concerns would you have for a 1999 R1100RT with only 6000 miles? It is in a humid place so I doubt anything has dried out...

 

Humid is bad, dry is good FWIW.

[4wheeldog]

What concerns would you have for a 1999 R1100RT with only 6000 miles? It is in a humid place so I doubt anything has dried out...

 

Humid is bad, dry is good FWIW.

 

+1........Mechanical things drying out refers to the fluid used in the system, not ambient humidity. Humidity does bad things to stored motorcycles.

[Ken H.]

I guess my question would be – why bother? There are lots of used bike out there that have been ridden and maintained, why open yourself up to the potential can of worms of an 11 year old bike that has been sitting?

[Selden]

What Phil said, plus fork seals, brake lines, and the oil level window (if there is any ooze around it, or if any develops, replace before it blows out). Check the shafts on the shocks for rust (since you say it's been stored in a humid environment).

 

Add $1000 for some mix of these contingencies, and if the price is still right, go for it. Do you have any mechanical inclinations or prior experience with boxers, so that you can do your own maintenance? If neither, at dealer rates, $1000 could be just a down payment.

[tallman]

How much?

You'll put $x into it.

That may not be worth it.

But, if that is the bike you really want, again, how much?

From that point a cost benefit analysis can proceed.

If you have a budget, and the bike falls w/in the range you want to spend, it will either be a good deal, or suck more than you anticipated into setting it right.

Best wishes.

[OoPEZoO]

Good point Tim.......I completely dismissed the cost of entry.

 

In my case. If you could get it for a good price $3k-5K then I would consider it. If the guy thinks he is sitting on a pristine goldmine and asking $6K+ for it then I would most likely walk away and find something different. Newer Hexheads RTs are dropping down to the ~$10k range now and are making the older oilheads a little less desirable. I mean, don't get me wrong.....I love my 1100, but I spent $7k on it 5 years (and 60k miles) ago. I could never bring myself to spend that kind of money on another oilhead when the hexheads are starting to creep around the same cost range.

[lvnvbiker]

I'm noticing the oilhead prices coming down to the sub 5k range in alot of cases. Give ibmwr a look ther are always some good deals to be had.

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

purchase in haste - repent in leasure

 

a possible good source to identify used bmw motorcycles for sale might be the bmwmoa classifieds.

I think you would need to join to get access but you get a pretty good magazine out of it. the magazine has the classifieds but you likely would want to access on-line so you can jump on a good deal if/when it comes along...)

at the very least can give you a bunch of datapoints to establish what bikes are going for.

 

( bmw moa = bmw motorcycle owners of america . website is bmwmoa dot org then go to fleamarket - I see 150

ads - about 50+ for oilhead/hexhead)

[richs]

He wanted $7900 for it and did not seem to want to budge on it. He did not seem ready to sell it. I moved on. I found a 2001 with 25k miles on ebay and I bought it. Woo hoo! Now to go get it and ride it home about 800 miles.

[OoPEZoO]

He wanted $7900 for it and did not seem to want to budge on it. He did not seem ready to sell it. I moved on. I found a 2001 with 25k miles on ebay and I bought it. Woo hoo! Now to go get it and ride it home about 800 miles.

 

Awesome.....and at 25k miles it is just broke in. I bought mine with about 60k and now have a little over 120k on it. I'm sure you will love it. Welcome to the board

[Selden]

Good choice. $7900 in 2010 for a 1999 RT is absurd -- even if it's Boston Green.

[Ebola]

Is this Boston Green? http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/1554930674.html

 

I'm guessing this is the one he's speaking of.

[OoPEZoO]

No that is Glacier Green.......this is Boston Green

 

[richs]

Yes, that is the one.

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

re the picture posted by OoPEZoO

 

 

what is that green 'snow' in the background?

 

(its a shock to see grass - how long ago it seems since saw some)

<> enough with the snow already...

[philbytx]

He's WAAAYYY over the market price for that year . Low mileage on an "older" bike does NOT command a premium. Unless of course it's say, a vintage Norton Manx or, deep sigh!, a Vincent Black Shadow .

[tallman]

He's WAAAYYY over the market price for that year . Low mileage on an "older" bike does NOT command a premium. Unless of course it's say, a vintage Norton Manx or, deep sigh!, a Vincent Black Shadow .

 

A true test would be to take a similar bike over to the seller and ask him if he'd buy your bike at $5000?

Afterall, if his is worth nearly $8k then he should be willing to but anything he could find for 60% his asking price.

Let me know...

[rkjjeep]

Everyone is different. Some prefer lower mileage bikes and will pay a premium - and how much they'll pay depends on the person. Low miles = less exposure to lots of things, including bad maint, ham fisted mechanic, etc. I usually figure ABOUT 10% premium when buying if a bike has really low miles and everything else checks out.

 

 

[tallman]

I don't disagree.

But, factor in old tires, even low mileage ones will need replacing.

Possible deteriortation of lines, hoses, leaks.

Possible, if not likely ABS module issues. ($$$)

Possible fuel system issues.

Etc.

I've seen low mileage bikes that probably never had the second service and were X years old.

When changing the oil, a quart of black tar came out.

Tried to convince the owner that the bike needed major service and inspection, at the least.

He refused because it was "low mileage".

Put it on his trailer, drove home, cranked it up and got 6/10ths of a mile before the engine self destructed.

An extreme example, but true.

We all want to make that barn find, the pristine example of our dream bike which we buy for a low price.

Happens sometimes.

But in my experience the buyer always puts more money than anticipated in a 10-11 year old model than anticipated.

Going older than that almost always requires $xxxx dollars to renew the bike.

Often worth it.

I passed on a 7 year old R1100 S w/only 3,000 miles.

Very nice cosmetically, bags, bar backs, small scree.

Excellent set up for solo commuting or touring.

I was concerned about how long it had sat.

Sold the bike and saw the new owner 11,000 miles and a year later.

No problems.

Made an error on that one, so you never know.

Best wishes.