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R1150RT Switched power lead for a GPS?


Hollow Road Rider

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Hollow Road Rider

Is there a switched power lead I can tap into, and get to, without removing a side panel? I am installing a BMR brand shelf system for a Garmin GPS on my 1150RT.

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Is there a switched power lead I can tap into, and get to, without removing a side panel? I am installing a BMR brand shelf system for a Garmin GPS on my 1150RT.

 

I know it is not the answer you were looking for, but you might reconsider switched for GPS. I just installed three electrical components on my 1150, two switched and I purposely left the third, the GPS un-switched.

 

The GPS draws very little, and it is very nice to be able to check on routes when you are stopped without turning on the ignition or starting the bike.

 

I have run my GPS un-switched on my last 4 bikes, it works great.

 

For the record, I picked up my switched lead from my tail light.

 

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I chose a switched lead for my GPS because I didn't like the idea of having a hot 12 volt pin on the bare cradle when I removed the GPS at stops. I could always switch to battery power on the Garmin for the time I was at lunch if I wanted to keep things going on it. Just my paranoia.

 

---

 

 

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Tom, as others have mentioned I prefer full time battery power for a GPS (for many reasons including keeping the tracks intact) But to each his own on this..

 

On the 1150RT—If you really want the most accessible just buy a little clip that goes under a fuse then snap that in the fuse box under the radio fuse & grab your power there.. (2 radio fuses on the 1150,, one is ign switched & the other is full time battery power)..

 

My personal favorite on the 11500RT is to access the Radio connector (L/H side near the air intake snorkel) as that has ign power or full time battery power available right there.. You can access it from the front without pulling the L/H panel but I doubt you can attach anything there without removing the L/H Tupperware..

Note: some of the later 1150’s didn’t come with radio prep kits installed so the radio connector might be missing on late 1150’s..

 

Fuse #8 is the full time power radio fuse & if you don’t have a radio that fuse will probably be missing (you will need to add one)..

 

If you decide to power from the fuse box you can push a stiff wire along the R/H side of the fuel tank (without removing the tank) ,, then use that stiff wire to pull through your GPS wire harness..

 

Twisty

 

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Is there a switched power lead I can tap into, and get to, without removing a side panel? I am installing a BMR brand shelf system for a Garmin GPS on my 1150RT.

 

I know it is not the answer you were looking for, but you might reconsider switched for GPS. I just installed three electrical components on my 1150, two switched and I purposely left the third, the GPS un-switched.

 

The GPS draws very little, and it is very nice to be able to check on routes when you are stopped without turning on the ignition or starting the bike.

 

I have run my GPS un-switched on my last 4 bikes, it works great.

 

For the record, I picked up my switched lead from my tail light.

 

Another reason to connect the GPS to an unswitched circuit (such as directly to the battery) is so that you can keep track of your accumulated time including stops (yes, even overnight stops). Some folks with a disease are interested in this feature.

:D

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My personal favorite on the 11500RT is to access the Radio connector (L/H side near the air intake snorkel) as that has ign power or full time battery power available right there..

 

There are two radio power wires as Twisty mentioned. One hot all the time and the other switched with the ignition. If I recall, even the one that is hot all the time goes off when the ignition is in the "Park" or "Handlebar locked position". I, too, like having the GPS powered all the time, but also like being able to turn off the power when the handlebar is locked. (I believe that wire is red with a white stripe, but it's been a while. You should check with a meter first. )

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Is there a switched power lead I can tap into, and get to, without removing a side panel? I am installing a BMR brand shelf system for a Garmin GPS on my 1150RT.

 

I know it is not the answer you were looking for, but you might reconsider switched for GPS. I just installed three electrical components on my 1150, two switched and I purposely left the third, the GPS un-switched.

 

The GPS draws very little, and it is very nice to be able to check on routes when you are stopped without turning on the ignition or starting the bike.

 

I have run my GPS un-switched on my last 4 bikes, it works great.

 

For the record, I picked up my switched lead from my tail light.

 

+1

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There are two radio power wires as Twisty mentioned. One hot all the time and the other switched with the ignition. If I recall, even the one that is hot all the time goes off when the ignition is in the "Park" or "Handlebar locked position". I, too, like having the GPS powered all the time, but also like being able to turn off the power when the handlebar is locked. (I believe that wire is red with a white stripe, but it's been a while. You should check with a meter first. )

 

 

Al, the red/white wire that comes from fuse F-3 should be hot all the time as that is the keep alive for radio memory..

 

 

Twisty

 

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Hollow Road Rider

Okay guys, I've been convinced to keep it hot. Thanks for all the help.

Special thanks to Mr. Twisty... sounds like you know your stuff.

 

Tom

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Al, the red/white wire that comes from fuse F-3 should be hot all the time as that is the keep alive for radio memory..

 

Twisty: I believe there are two plugs on the left side. A four pin accessory plug and a ? seven pin radio plug. Both plugs have a brown (ground) wire and both have a red with white stripe always hot wire connected to the same 15 amp fuse (Fuse #3 I think). The radio plug has a violet colored wire with a stripe (can't remember color of stripe) which is hot except when the ignition key locks the fork. It stays on if the ignition is just turned off. It is the only wire on a 4 amp fuse (? #8). You can strip the insulation from any of these wires and solder your GPS power plug to the ones you want to use. I used the violet since the 4 amp fuse is plenty for a GPS and it's the only thing on that circuit plus turns off when the fork is locked but stays on all the rest of the time.

 

I used the red with white stripe wire to power a cigarette lighter socket in my radio/glove box for use in charging my cell phone and pda while going down the road.

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  • 1 year later...
My personal favorite on the 11500RT is to access the Radio connector (L/H side near the air intake snorkel) as that has ign power or full time battery power available right there..

 

There are two radio power wires as Twisty mentioned. One hot all the time and the other switched with the ignition. If I recall, even the one that is hot all the time goes off when the ignition is in the "Park" or "Handlebar locked position". I, too, like having the GPS powered all the time, but also like being able to turn off the power when the handlebar is locked. (I believe that wire is red with a white stripe, but it's been a while. You should check with a meter first. )

I just discovered this feature, but decided to search the forum archives to see if anybody else had reported it. Very handy — the GPS is always powered during normal use, but I can turn the circuit off by locking the forks. The power draw of the USB converter is probably very low, but it's nice to know that I can turn it off.

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Very handy info to have. I'm getting ready to plug in a new Garmin, so will try the connector you guys mention. I remember seeing it up there. I have an '04 which did not come with a radio or an antenna (hence, I believe, no radio prep--but not sure). I'll report back what I find.

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CaptainKcorb

Just a heads up on GPS power draw. While the actual GPS draws very little, I purchased a Powerlet to USB cable for my Garmin, to use the dash plugin as my connection.

 

The Powerlet cable drew down my battery to the point where I needed a boost to start the bike in about 7 days. I was quite surprised as I'd just preached to a buddy that the current draw didn't matter. It's probably a feature (:-)) of the cable but worth checking before you go direct.

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