new owner of 2004 1150rt p needs help

[Oss]

It took so long for the bike to arrive in Ny from LA and for me (dumb on my part) to get the plates that the battery doesnt have enough oomph to start

 

I had started it when the bike arrived a week ago but wasnt able to ride w.o plates Today I got the plates on and it started then died after 10 seconds When I tried again I got the dreaded click click noise

 

No manual provided How do I access the battery to hook my battery tender up . I believe I will need to unhook the battery cables so as not to damage any electronics

 

I see there is a key that opens a small compartment on the left side. Is that the aux battery or the main It looks small so I think its the aux

 

Thanks in advance for any assistance

 

Oss

[Bill_Walker]

Two options:

 

1) Get a BMW plug for your battery tender and plug it into the accessory outlet on the left side of the bike, just below the seat.

 

2) For immediate access if you don't already have the BMW plug, remove the seat. The battery is under the tank just in front of the front seat. I'm not sure how seat removal works on an RT-P, though. On a standard RT, there's a key lock under the taillight. You turn it to the right, which unlocks the pillion seat. After you remove the pillion seat, the rider seat lifts off. But the RT-P has a radio box in place of the pillion seat, so it's probably different.

[Oss]

thanks

 

to remove seat open radio box pull latch and seat comes off I just did that and it looks like a battery is under there somewhere lol and it looks like I have to somehow take off the tupperware to access the battery

 

I did not know that the bike comes with a charger outlet that is pretty cool

[Quinn]

I don't know about the RTP, but my '04 has a hot terminal stud that is covered by a rubber cap right there at the gas tank end of the area uncovered by the front seat removal. Ground is any screw going into the frame.

 

 

[Woodie]

Screwdriver from under the seat to the right-post up under the tank/fairing. Clamp the charger to the screwdriver.

 

Hokey, but it works.

 

[Michaelr11]

Your Battery Tender should come with an SAE connector with battery leads. If you take off the LH side and pull the battery to charge it, then install the SAE connector and you can plug the BT in to charge it anytime. The easiest way is to buy a BMW-SAE cable - plug the BMW end into your accessory outlet near the pegs on the LH side and then plug your Battery Tender into the SAE plug.

See product # PL-PAC-008-6 on this page...

http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/orderbysku.asp

 

[Oss]

thanks for the input guys

 

ok so there are definitely double bmw style plugs behind the left grab rail panel what they are connected to is anyones guess right now.

my neighbor came over with a battery charger to attempt to charge the aux battery The aux battery is not connected to the red cable briefly attaching the charger to that cable while key off yielded horn going off so we deep sixed that idea as we dont want to damage anything

So now the charger is on the disconnected aux battery and as soon as possible during the week I will buy a bmw charger with its special connector a repair manual and hope for the best

 

Was not looking forward to taking off the side panels and center panel and tank but we will see what this week brings

 

To take off the left panel it looks from my novice viewpoint that it clips or clides over a lip in front and does not entirely come off due to the crash bars

 

At least the bike now has plates lol

[Tony_K]

Just so you know, the BMW battery charger for your bike available at the dealer is mearly a REBRANDED Deltran Battery Tender.

 

You can pick up the Deltran at any good auto parts store and many other places.

 

The ONE thing that sets the BMW unit apart is 1 cable with the power socket adapter. Personally I prefer the quick release connection that is attached directly to the battery terminals that comes in every Battery Tender kit.

 

 

[Allen Rowand]

You need to remove the front crash bars to pull the plastic; there are 3 bolts on each. Then you'll remove 13-15 3mm screws from the bodywork- pay attention to where they came from, as there are different lengths. Dont forget the captive stud at the rear of the bike. You remove the plastic by turning the whole shebang slightly CCW to unclip it from the tank and clear the tab that goes into the nosecone. Then slide it over the cylinder.

 

It's not as bad as you think. So simple, even I can do it!

 

Allen

[Woodie]

It's not as bad as you think. So simple, even I can do it!

Allen

 

Ditto from me!

 

(PS: the center "panel" is permanently attached to the gas tank--don't try to remove it!)

[11101110]

Have you checked your horn to see if it works without hooking up the aux battery? The RTP horn was rewired from stock to run off the aux battery as well as the lights and radio and other police circuits. This allowed the rider to shut down the engine while still running lights, radio and such while not discharging the primary starting battery. The aux battery will only charge when the engine is running and if the alternator is providing a voltage high enough to indicate a sufficient charge on the primary.

 

You can remove the aux battery and connect the leads to the primary battery. You will have to extend the positive lead. My RTP is wired this way.

[dc10bill]

2004 -p model if from CHP just remove seat, their is rubber covered stud above air cleaner being "+" stud for the Gel battery, For the ground stud use the stud on aft side of LH cyl. and hook your jumper cables their and hook to your car's battery with engine running above idle for about 5-10 min. to get some charge into battery! Than try starting which they usually do, with chock lever "up"

 

Just jumpering from another battery in on the same studs doesn't do any thing with low or dead battery! I recently I went through the same learning curve with my 2004-p ex CHP

[dc10bill]

to continue with 2004 1150rt-p models if not already done so go to bmwmc.net one can down load or print all the manuals for the 1100rt-p & 1150rt-p all for "FREE" some great material their!

 

Did you purchase bike from "Hollywood Motors" they had 50+-p's at one time some low miles but most 100001!

 

I got rid off all that -P junk off of mine and used Hollywood motors 2nd seat($175.00) in original stock postion, why carry around an extra 50+ pds, You can get rid of that extra switch gear on RH bar also, why have the second battery weight?

[TechDirector]

A couple of other notes:

 

- On my '02 the rearmost of the two accessory plugs (next to each other on the left side) is connected to and charges the main battery, the front is connected to and charges the aux battery.

 

- When you want to really impress people you can actually jump the main battery off the aux battery!

 

I am doing some work on my accessories right now and actually have two battery tenders plugged into the bike - one on each battery.

[Oss]

dc10bill when I click on the site I cant get past the 1st page with the pic of the officer on the bike Is there a contact me page?

 

Techdirector that is what I found the rear plug is for the main battery I put my 30' extension cord and my charger in the radio box before my ride, just in case, The extra weight dont bother me as I have plenty on my own. Maybe I am spoiled by the Valkyrie, it dont care how much tonnage you have

 

Love the way this bike handles

[upflying]

The photo is a bit blurry but I extended the cables from my battery by cutting short sections of copper tubing, crushing it and drilling holes at both ends. This gives me somewhere to attach jumper cables or a charger if I need it. Not pretty but it works. Notice date and mileage I replaced the battery.

 

[ratfink]

 

when I click on the site I cant get past the 1st page with the pic of the officer on the bike Is there a contact me page?

 

Make sure your pop-up blocker is disabled.

[R1150RT_MLC_Response]

And don't use Google Chrome as it probably will not work with that browser - best to go back to basics when trying to access this site. Persevere, it is worth it.

[UberXY]

When I rode an R11S it was a real hassle to get to the battery for jumping. I would hook the ground jumper cable to the engine somewhere, turn on the ignition, and then touch the positive jumper cable to the big positive post on the starter. No muss no fuss.