tazplas Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Well i've lashed out and paid for the MC Cruise control for my RT. http://www.mccruise.com/ Today, Tony (the owner) has rung me twice to check some details before packing the unit off to me. Bloody good customer care so far is all i can say. For those familiar with the unit, i have to cut the throttle cables and rejoin them. I have one question though - is it/would it be recommended to install a new throttle cable/s before doing this upgrade? or will they just stretch and i will end having to reset the whole shebang at some stage in the near future? I have about 127000 kms on the clock Any thoughts and advice much appreciated. Cheers Steve Link to comment
Polo Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 WOW. If I did it right it comes out to $1,069 US Dollars? That's a lot of money for a cruise control, no wonder you're getting good service. Good luck, certainly hope it gives you good service. Link to comment
smiller Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I don't see how any potential throttle cable stretch would matter since I believe that you cut the cable before it splits off to each throttle body, thus it can't affect TB synchronization. Beyond that I can't imagine that any future cable stretch would be anywhere near enough for it to matter to the cruise control. Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 As a guy who goes back to the days when making your own Bowden cables was routine (yes, complete with acid flux soldering... no kidding), I have to say, "Crazeeeeeeeeeeee." No sane person would want "to cut the throttle cables and rejoin them" or willingly mess with an intact cable. Just my impression, but I don't think there's much stretching with throttle cables that it would matter and/or that there isn't some means of taking up the slack. So I'd go with new cables because any easing of friction would be nice (kind of why you are getting the gizmo, eh). In what way is a $1000 device better than my 28-cent throttle counter-force spring? Or the cruise control that came on a /2? Footnote: actually, was back into making Bowden cables just a few years ago when I did a carb switcheroo on my Airhead. Learned a new trick: use a grinder to smooth the ends of the outer housing. The guys who fix bicycles sometimes make cables. Not for the faint of heart. Link to comment
smiller Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 In what way is a $1000 device better than my 28-cent throttle counter-force spring? Or the cruise control that came on a /2? In the way that it will hold a fixed speed even if you aren't on perfectly level ground. Throttle locks are useful for giving your wrist a rest for some number of seconds but don't even approach the utility of a true cruise control. But you don't have to spend $1,000 to get one, the Audiovox generic unit works great for $100 (less than some of the throttle locks cost), although you do have to be a bit handy. Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 A spring is not a lock and it has no friction. Even on my Lexus with an automatic transmission, I have trouble leaving the cruise control well enough alone for any length of time EVEN on level ground. They just aren't very smart. Maybe Texas roads or traffic is different. Frankly, I have trouble thinking any sport-touring biker would find mind-numbing cruise control an attractive idea, even on long dull super-slab stretches. Even those who ride Winnebago-class cruisers. What IS significant to our geriatric crowd at this forum is help with carpel tunnel irritation, arthritis, long-trip tired wrists fighting the springs needed on Big Bore TBs, and the ability to wave your right hand in the air once in a while. Can cruise control help for these issues? Yes. So can a 28-cent throttle counter-force spring. Tried it? Link to comment
smiller Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 On open roads the cruise control saves me the mind-numbing job of watching for the highway patrol for hours on end... I just set it at 9 above and rock on. As far as a throttle spring is concerned, in my case I would need it to help close the throttle, not open it... Link to comment
tallman Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Peter, Have you ever used a true electronic cruise control for a long trip on a motorcycle? Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I use a Throttle Rocker. I want total control of the throttle at all times, but I do like the ability to relax my grip and stretch my fingers. The Throttle Rocker is the best of all worlds for me, and as a bonus, I can move it from bike to bike easily. Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Peter, Have you ever used a true electronic cruise control for a long trip on a motorcycle? I hope this doesn't sound only like diss'ing other riders, but I sure do my best never to be in the kind of place or the state of mind that would make it nice to have cruise control (other than the wrist-relief benefits). OK... I tour on an "S" or a bike with mods. Even allowing for the deterioration of my mental abilities, 20 years of car cruise control (which I use a lot) and almost 50 years of biking (including no small amount of touring) just might confer on me a modest degree of imagination about the value of cruise control on long trips with a bike. What do you think - can I get off your hook? Link to comment
effexer1 Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I use a throttle rocker, $10.00, and an O ring, 10 cents, and that will have to do! Link to comment
tallman Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 No hook, just wondering if something had soured you on them from personal experience. Since you haven't I guess that answers the question. it was merely a question. As an aside, I use a throttle rocker, but if uyou do a search, you'll find many posts from the past about sleeves getting caught and not being able to control the throttle in urban areas. Not posts from me, just they are out there. What goes around... Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I agree, they can get caught on your sleeve. I had one on my wife's (then) Silver Wing scooter. I was parking it nose down-hill against a curb and caught my sleeve on as I reached past to set the parking brake. That was exciting. It has an auto-clutch. Kind-of climbed the curb. But you get used to it. I don't even notice it now. Link to comment
tazplas Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 Well thanks for all the comments that had nothing to do with what i asked bar a couple of good comments. If you wish to start your own thread with regard to what you use on the throttle then perhaps may be the time to do so. Admittedly i did ask for advice and comments but i should have been clearer in that it was with in regard to my question and nothing else. My apologies. I am well aware of the $0.20 fixes out there but when you have a trip to Perth coming up and one of the roads is 146km dead straight along with others with the occasional bend then something more than an 'O' ring is warranted i think. Anyway, that's my decision to spend my money to install an upgrade which will improve the long distance capabilities/comfort and is standard on the 1200 RT's. And it's cheaper than buying a new RT. As per my original question "I have one question though - is it/would it be recommended to install a new throttle cable/s before doing this upgrade? or will they just stretch and i will end having to reset the whole shebang at some stage in the near future?" Other than that, thanks for your input thus far but please lets keep any answers to the original question. I know that there are others on the board with Mccruise. Perhaps they could chime in. Thanks Steve Link to comment
Haynes Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Steve, I've been to the source of where they are designed and packaged. These guys are very switched on and dedicated to customer service. I went there with two members of this board who bought and fitted the cruise controls to their R1150RTs. They reported that there is some fiddling to do with the fitting and adjustments but when you finally have it right it is a superb setup and the performance is faultless. Good luck with the fitting. Link to comment
T__ Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Well thanks for all the comments that had nothing to do with what i asked bar a couple of good comments. If you wish to start your own thread with regard to what you use on the throttle then perhaps may be the time to do so. Admittedly i did ask for advice and comments but i should have been clearer in that it was with in regard to my question and nothing else. My apologies. I am well aware of the $0.20 fixes out there but when you have a trip to Perth coming up and one of the roads is 146km dead straight along with others with the occasional bend then something more than an 'O' ring is warranted i think. Anyway, that's my decision to spend my money to install an upgrade which will improve the long distance capabilities/comfort and is standard on the 1200 RT's. And it's cheaper than buying a new RT. As per my original question "I have one question though - is it/would it be recommended to install a new throttle cable/s before doing this upgrade? or will they just stretch and i will end having to reset the whole shebang at some stage in the near future?" Other than that, thanks for your input thus far but please lets keep any answers to the original question. I know that there are others on the board with Mccruise. Perhaps they could chime in. Steve, as you noted this site is getting pretty bad on the hijacking thing lately.. I guess people need to re-read the “User Agreement”.. Rule #3= “Avoid hijacking threads by changing the subject. Either start your own thread in the appropriate place or communicate privately” Now on your original question: At the high mileage you have on your original cables it sure would be advisable to replace them.. My suggestion would be to use the original cables to initially cut/rework as you can practice on them & if not quite right you can make adjustments when you shorten the new cables.. That will also leave you with pre-made cables for quick replacement if you ever have problems with your installed cables.. If the kit you are buying has special ends furnished to re-work the original cable have them furnish a couple extra when they ship the kit.. I doubt the new cables will stretch (takes a lot of load to stretch the twisted metal cable) but they do tend to wear into the inner liner at cable curves & corners so I’m guessing they will change slightly as they wear in.. BUT, you could have the same problem even if using the older cables if they aren’t re-installed EXACTLY in the same way as removed,, in fact maybe even worse if the originals have places worn in the inner liner & the cable eventually ends up working it’s way back into the worn spots.. I think you will find a “properly installed” electronic cruise control much better & WAY much more precise than any of the throttle friction devices or counter spring contraptions.. Just the precision resume & tap up tap down feature is worth the investment in money & time.. One word of caution: just make sure your installation has a (quick reacting & properly working) clutch pull-in throttle drop so if you pull the clutch lever in while in held cruise mode it will INSTANTLY drop the cruise control.. If that system is not working or sluggish you can damage your engine on a clutch-in load drop engine flair as it will gain RPM’s so fast even the fuel cut-off can’t keep up.. Twisty Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Well thanks for all the comments that had nothing to do with what i asked bar a couple of good comments. If you wish to start your own thread with regard to what you use on the throttle then perhaps may be the time to do so. Admittedly i did ask for advice and comments but i should have been clearer in that it was with in regard to my question and nothing else. snip Steve 1. I did offer my take on working with Bowden cables and some details and advice. 2. Even with the best of moderation, some gray zone in determining hijacking and nobody here left the general topic. Being short on mind reading skills, nobody can tell exactly what will be useful to post and what not. For sure, somebody who says get a Throttle Rocker is just trying to possibly save you $978. And you complain? 3. On the other hand, pretty clear when an OP posts a needlessly surly reply. Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 For me, simpler solutions are always better. And I'm a Scot by heritage, so I'm dead-cheap when it comes to things like this. I'm sorry that my suggestion offended the OP, although he still might want to consider getting a throttle rocker in addition to the cruise control, for those days when a cruise control is not appropriate. I love mine. Link to comment
RBertalotto Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 If you ride hard and in a spirited fashion, a throttle rocker will ultimately kill you........ Don't ask me how I know, but if you look hard along the side of a certain twisty road in TN, you will find the one I ripped off my bike and threw in the woods when it activated the throttle during a slightly panic situation...... There is absolutely nothing like "true" cruise control on a motorcycle for long distance touring..... That's my story and I stick'n to it! Link to comment
tazplas Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Hi Guys Peter, yes you were one of the replies i was referring to in regard that you did offer some advice as compared to others. Thankyou for that. With regard to people trying to save me money, i had already stated that i had purchased the unit so money had changed hands already. My choice was made already although i do appreciate how others were thinking that perhaps they could offer an alternative solution. Thanks to those that did. Twisty and others, thankyou for your advice. Replacing the cables was something i was considering. It's always nice to bounce ideas off others and have them confirmed/ratified prior to acting on them. I will order some new cables and take it from there. After installation i may post again with results. Cheers Steve Link to comment
T__ Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Steve, yes please do post a follow up,, especially on the difficulty on the initial install & how well the cruise functions as far holding speed on hills & the resume & tap functions.. Also if the “cruise addition” makes the hand throttle more difficult to operate.. What side are you installing the function switch on? If you have a choice something to think about—My 1200RT came with the cruise switch on the L/H handlebar,, never gave it much thought until I started using the cruise.. The L/H side seemed perfect for what I wanted as it allowed me to ride for miles without even touching the bar with my right hand as all the controls were on the left (great long term R/H arm/hand rest).. From (only) the L/H side you could tap speed up or down in even mph counts,, coast,, resume change speed,, even drop the cruise function if needed.. Twisty Link to comment
awagnon Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Steve, I installed the MC Cruise on my '02 RT a couple of years ago and it's great. I did change the throttle cable at the time of the install. The throttle advance ( left side ) and the short cables from the Bowden box to the throttle bodies usually don't cause problems or need replacing. I saved the old throttle cable and carry it with me in case I have to take the cruise control off for any reason. Let me know if you have questions. To me, it was cheaper to install the cruise control than to buy a 1200RT just for the cruise. Link to comment
awagnon Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Steve, I forgot to mention, if you haven't already cut your throttle cable. If you have handlebar risers or bar-backs on the RT, the cut piece from the new distributor box to the throttle will be too short. May need to add about 1 1/2 inches. Also, when I bought mine, the exchange rate was much better. Only cost about $700. Also, the guys in OZ are very good about answering questions. I emailed them twice with questions. Both times, they telephoned me back on their dime to answer the questions promptly. Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 While there aren't a lot of bike bits that aren't related to safety, the throttle cables certainly are. Operating on the cables isn't something I'd do casually. Here's an example of not understanding the implications of a mod. Some people find the throttle return springs pretty strong (OK... everybody does). But some people "cleverly" think they can put weaker springs on their TBs or carbs. That's an example of not thinking-through the issues. I'm sure everybody here caught that before I said it. Link to comment
Lips_BMW Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 I have a question about the Audiovox cc-100 for seasoned installers. Can the cruise control cable be hooked into the throttle grip? I ordered a cc-100 for my 1150rt, and was looking at the cd manual I have, and it appears that there is a place for another cable in the throttle grip, with a female thread on the grip for the cable adjuster. I'm just wondering if anyone has looking into this spot for adding the cc-100, vs. tapping into bowden box. Looks like it would be easier to install. Thanks. - Jason Link to comment
tazplas Posted January 16, 2010 Author Share Posted January 16, 2010 Thanks Al for the advice about bar backs. I have them on my bike so i will check it out to see if i will have probs. May have to talk to Tony at Mccruise to see what he says. Yes the control unit will go on the left hand side as this makes sense for ease of control. I plan to do this in the next month or so - too many things happening at home at the moment and i will have to wait for the new cables from the Beemer dealer first. BTW, it cost $990 AU. That's about $917 US at today's rates. Cheers Steve Link to comment
awagnon Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 i will have to wait for the new cables from the Beemer dealer first. You should only need to replace the single throttle cable from the Bowden box to the throttle grip. The throttle advance cable gets little wear and has no effect on throttle resistence. Likewise, the two small cables to the throttle bodies really never fail and also contribute little to resistance. However, it wouldn't hurt to change them. The entire install took an afternoon. Not difficult and worth the money in my opinion. Link to comment
Uggles Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Geday Steve. I'm one of the guys Haynes spoke of and hope you had a good trip up last year. Sorry I didn't jump in earlier. The McCruise unit is a top piece of gear. At the time I fitted my unit @ approx 40k kms I didn't worry about stretch of the cables but with your mileage I think it is a good thing to replace it. YES you will have problems with the bar backs. Check with Tony about what to do. I fitted both mine and the other guy Haynes spoke of so drop me a line if you want any extra info. There are a few tricks that were not in the manual. I've just ticked over 60k kms with the cruise without a hiccup. Pity I'm not going on the Safari this year. We could have caught up. Cheers, Link to comment
tazplas Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Hi Mark I was just in the process of emailing Tony with the query about the bar backs etc. I will post his advice here so other may learn. May catch up later this year possibly as it looks as if the Perth trip is is a no goer. Will probably be heading to Adelaide and then Orange via Broken Hill instead and back down the East coast. Will let you know what we plan. Cheers Steve Link to comment
11101110 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I installed the mc cruise on my bike last autumn (I think). It is absolutely one of the best cruise control that I have ever used this includes all the cars that I have driven. Once set up-and yes it will take some riding time to get it set up-you will be happy you spent the extra for this unit. As an engineer I really appreciated the level of detail in the manuals and rarely see it elsewhere. I did replace all of my cables and cleaned the bowden box as well. I only paid $700 USD for mine. I pulled the trigger while researching exchange rates and say the USD was at a multi year high vs the AUD. Right now the euro is falling fairly fast and would think the AUD may follow. Link to comment
tazplas Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Well sent a email to them about the Bar Backs etc and here is the reply - "The main potential issue that I can see is going to be is if the throttle cable is long enough. On this kit we cut the bike's throttle cable and insert our own 'splitter box' (CIU or Cable Interface Unit). There may not be enough of the original cable left to reach higher up to the handlebars if they are raised. This can be overcome by simply cutting the original cable to suit the connection from the CIU to the bike's throttle cable splitter box, and then instead of using what is left to go from the twist grip to the CIU, buy a new BMW cable and cut that to suit your requirements. With a new cable you will have all the length you might need to go to the twist grip. You will have to establish what length the cable should be, as the lengths specified in our instructions are for standard bikes. A bit of trial and error should sort that out fairly easily." No drama with all of that. So after that advice as well as from others, the order has been made for new cables and we shall progress from there. Definitely something to allow for should anyone be considering this kit. Cheers Steve Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 For cutting the cable you might want to consider using a high-speed Dremmel tool (or similar) with a cutoff disk. Tape the end ahead of the cut. Link to comment
tazplas Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 Thanks Glen Seems like a good idea. Consider it taken on board. Cheers Steve Link to comment
SKYGZR Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Why not Throttlemeister? Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Why not Throttlemeister? Because it is dim to ADD friction to your life and kind of clumbsy to work with and adjust right. Granted, kind of works as advertized on certain dull roads and the balance of stiction and friction has a certain ergonomic value on a good day. Anybody tried... hate to say it one more time... a throttle counter-force spring? Link to comment
awagnon Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Why not Throttlemeister? I left my Throttlemiester in place after I installed my MC Cruise control just in case the cruise control went on the blink while touring. I never use it anymore. So nice having real cruise control that adjusts to hills, wind, whatever. Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Why not Throttlemeister? I left my Throttlemiester in place after I installed my MC Cruise control just in case the cruise control went on the blink while touring. I never use it anymore. So nice having real cruise control that adjusts to hills, wind, whatever. Ah, the scales are falling from my eyes, at last. I've been puzzling over the thread "What if not your BMW than what?" over in Motorcycle Talk. There seem to be different impressions about the dividing line between what might be called "sport touring" and plain "touring" (or perhaps if you will pardon an invidious term for the same, "cruising"). In my personal view, an advanced cruise control puts you over that line, perhaps only for the times when you are using it. Of course, each of us pays your money and you takes your pick. Cruise control is just dandy for my car and I use it pretty much as often as I can. Frankly, I don't drive a car a lot and my foot gets tired fast on highway trips. Sound reminiscent of something? Link to comment
ragtoplvr Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 I do not tour often, but I find myself considering a cruse control. It is the nature of these beemers to like certain speeds and RPM. When I get busy scanning or enjoying my self, and not paying attention to speed, I just naturally assume a speed the bike likes. This speed, too often it seems, is faster than the legal limit, leading to some interesting (cough cough) conversations. I am not doing anything that, to me, seems the least bit dangerous. That opinion is not worth much. For me the cruse would free me to scan and enjoy more and save my speeding for those certain curvy bits when it is necessary. When enforcement rises to where I can not enjoy those bits either, I may just hang it up. Rod Link to comment
NonComp Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 For me the cruse would free me to scan and enjoy more and save my speeding for those certain curvy bits when it is necessary. Boy, this cruise control must do more than I thought. You turn it on and you don't have to pay as much attention to what is in front of you?? This really seems to be a fundamental difference in philosophy. When I get on my bikes, I'm there to ride, not to drive. I do see the utility of a cruise control near the end of a trip, when you just want to get home tonight. But usually that means the last couple of hundred miles beating down the interstate in moderate to heavy traffic, exactly when I would not want to use a cruise control for safety reasons - in other words, tired, distracted, losing focus, slower reaction time. At those times, I really want to be 'riding' to stay alert. Link to comment
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