New BMW owner looking for advice

[Tobe]

Hi all! I'm new to the board and new to the brand. Just bought a '99 R1100RT. It's got 35K miles on it, and I don't have a documented history of maintanence or repair. The bike appears to be well taken care of, and a couple hours with the previous owner made me confident he wasn't a hack.

 

I've owned several brands and types, and it seems that each model has it's own set of epidemic problems. In other words, anyone you talk to with the same bike (or car, or whatever) has had the same problems you've had, or soon will have. I've spent some time combing through the boards and archives trying to figure out what I should look for on this bike. I don't doubt the information that I'm looking for is in the archives somewhere, but since I don't know what the issues are, it is hard to do a term search on them. I've got the thing stipped down to do a deep scrub and check over, and since I've got another 2+ months of snow and ice before I can ride it, It would be a good time to take a close look at potential problems. I'd appreciate any feedback I can get from those that have been around this bike and know it's issues and what I should do for PM before the riding season.

 

Thanks,

Tobe

[94aero]

Change the fluids, so you have a base to start. get your seat set right either by the adjustment or by adding shims to the front to stop the sliding forward.

Go ride!! When it breaks fix it...... enjoy!!

 

Welcome to BMW's

[Jim Moore]

That's a great model year for a fabulous motorcycle. If I bought one of that vintage I'd consider replacing the hall effect sensor (HES). Besides that, those bikes are pretty much bulletproof.

[boatzo]

Great choice of bikes and 35k miles is great too. I have over 100k on my 99 RT and have had minimal problems. The worst problem I had was an input shaft bearing in the tranny at 99K miles. Final drive went at around 66K. Other wise with regular service you should have a good reliable ride for a long time. Also, IMHO, the 99 is very simple from the motronic and ABS stand points and makes life much easier.

 

Welcome to the group and to beemer life.

[philbytx]

Welcome and Howdy!

Age of battery? If 4/5yrs or older, consider changing it while you have it stripped down. Go with an AGM (Westco is reasonably priced). Regardless of that, I would also add Part numbers 9 through 11 to your battery. They are for jump starting...just in case!

Age of tires? If they are older than 5 years, I would replace.

 

Issues with the R1100RT are, as someone else said, the HES (usually wiring) and also the Valeo Starter. The early starters had issues with the internal magnets detaching. If it appears your (good!) battery is weak upon starting (dash lights dim down, doesn't appear to turn it over) and/or your starter starts to "bind" this is usually the issue. Check on the board...a few folks (including myself!) experienced this issue.

 

Given that you do not have a documented history of maintenance. IMHO, at the least, it would be a good idea to change your alternator belt (easy job), fuel filter (a PITA job), engine oil (20w50) tranny (75w90 or 75w140) and Final Drive (75w90 only), do a brake flush and don't forget to include a bleed on the 2 ABS unit valves under the tank.

 

Given your mileage (35k), and while you have it all down, do a valve clearance check (plenty of documentation and assistance on this site for it!) and together with that, a Throttle Body Synch.

 

There you go.......sounds daunting but really isn't. A good Clymer manual and a copy of the BMW CD (you can find a download on line for free!!!) plus docs and wisdom on this board will help you do ALL of the above fairly painlessly

[SageRider]

'97-'99 RTs were prone to early main throttle cable failure (12-40K miles). The design of the cable housing was changed, which eliminated the problem.

Check your cables by pulling the main throttle cable housing out of the bowden box.

The old type cables will have a metal cap on the end of the housing.

The new type cables have no metal cap.

 

Replace the cable if yours has the metal cap.

 

Be sure you get the cable housing fully reseated in the Bowden box when done checking or the throttle bodies will not open in sync.

[NonComp]

Here's a link to the official r1100 maintenance schedule:

 

Maintenance schedule r1100

[JonathanE]

I put 60K on my '99 R1100RT before I sold it (may it RIP, Dave). The only failure I ever had with it was the final drive once, during the warranty period. What everyone says above is worth following. Send me a PM if you'd like me to send you the detailed service checklists (MS Word documents, so you can edit them to fit what you like to do when you perform a service) that I used for both the 6K services and the 12K services.

 

As a new to you bike, you should certainly perform a full 12K service AND replace the three main throttle cables (do not replace the "choke" cable, it will probably last forever), and alternator belt. The optional replacement items are (depending on age and/or appearance): battery, tires, clutch cable, airbox oil.

 

Remove, clean, and lube the speedo cable and the little plastic gear at the front wheel hub. Replace the brake pads with scintered metal pads if they are at or less than 2 mm thick. Flush the brakes everywhere including at the ABS unit! You may need to replace grub screws at calipers with regular bleeders. I do not recommend the use of Speedbleeder brand bleeders, as there have been reports of failures.

 

If it were my bike, I'd also perform a cannisterectomy. At 50 or 60K miles you may want to consider changing the front wheel bearings and re-greasing the tranny input shaft splines, or not. Your call! Have fun working on it between now and the Spring thaw!

[tallman]

Isn't that a 36k replacement on the alternator belt too?

Agree that a complete fluid change might be in order, depending on PO's documentation.

Tire's same.

HES, most likely as preventative.

Enjoy.

[Slyder_Steve]

First...welcome to the board! Great info and folks right here.

 

Second, since you've got a couple months until the thaw, I'd suggest pushing the bike into the living room, downloading a few seasons of CHiPs and "riding" out the winter

 

Easy for me to say, it hit a high of 40 today

 

Slyder

[allynr1100]

Welcome.

 

A few years ago I also purchased a '99R1100RT with about 33K on it. The bike was current on dealer maintenance, the previous owner didn't work on it himself. Here is what I did shortly after buying it.

 

- Replace the HES wiring. Mine hadn't left me on the road yet but it was already cracking.

- Replaced throttle cables

- Anal valve adjustment and sync. Made a huge difference in how it ran.

- Changed engine(Mobil 1), trans(Redline Shockproof Heavy), rear end (regular 80-90 diff oil)

- Flushed brake system

- Changed alt belt. Hadn't failed yet but it did have a hole in it.

- Added PIAA lights to front. Without them I find it a little light challenged on dark rainy mornings and nights. But that might be partly my 50+++ year old eyes.

 

When time to replace brakes I use sintered pads on the front and organic on rear. Sintered in the front makes a big difference in stopping especially when wet (I ride in the rain a lot). Organic seems to have plenty of stopping power for me, I ride one up exclusively. If I am not careful I can easily activate the ABS on the rear during an aggressive stop especially on wet pavement. Like yesterday when someone tried to change lanes on top of me on a dark rainy morning.

 

I am just an average home mechanic and I don't find this to be a hard bike to work on at all.

 

Enjoy. I know I do.

 

[Dick_at_Lake_Tahoe_NV]

After you put all this great advice to use, and the bike is 100% and you take it out on your first ride, you will probably notice the infamous "surging"--some 1100/1150 bikes moreso than others. (BMW fixed it in the 1200 series, but they never admitted it existed in the 1100/1150)

 

So to minimize this surging while you doing your other maintenance items make sure to do the following:

 

Adjust the Valves

Carefully balance the throttle bodies

Replace the Plugs with Autolite 3923's (Wal-Mart for less than 3-bucks each).

[Matts_12GS]

We'd all come and help you do this work too with the collected wisdom we have here, but, it January. In MN.

 

You'll love the bike, and the quirky things about it, like switch gear seat latches and luggage and all will soon ruin other kinds of motorcycles for you.

 

Take the winter, take your time and get it ready to go. Post often, ask questions. Folks here will give you everything from advice to spare parts if you just let them know what you need.

 

Come the first warm and dry day of the year when you can ride you'll be ahead of the game for having done it yourself. AFter all that, get on over to Ride and Event planning and come out on the road with us!

[Morrie]

I just bought a 97 1100RT, 31K miles, with full maintenance records and a PO that did a lot of his own work and maintained the bike at at very high level. It doesn't surge at all. So far I haven't found anything that requires attention. I'm happy.

 

 

 

 

[UberXY]

I just bought a 97 1100RT, 31K miles, with full maintenance records and a PO that did a lot of his own work and maintained the bike at at very high level. It doesn't surge at all. So far I haven't found anything that requires attention. I'm happy.

 

I'm with you on the surging. I rode a 99 R1100S for six years, no surging. None on my RT either.

[Kinsman]

Well, I'll join the fun; '98 1100RT, 40,000 mi. I put about 3500 miles on it last summer (hey, I own a restaurant and I'm there all the time).

 

I've not yet done valves/throttle bodies. I do notice surging on my bike. And, yes, I absolutely love the bike.

[Morrie]

What I like most about the 1100RT is that it fixed the problems of the 1150RT.

 

 

[Bologna]

Welcome Tobe, have fun checking out your new ride. The wait for nice weather drives me crazy!!!!!!!!

[Dave R1100RT]

Hey Tobe - welcome.

Another Minnesotan here.

I ride a 2000 R1100RT. 46K Great Bikes - and this site will help you find your way. Mines de-tupperized at the moment - going through my annual maintenance. The good thing about Mn winters is that it gives us time to bond with the maintenance aspects of our bikes....the bad part is....we're not ridin'. I'm with Bologna....2-3 months is a long time not to be riding....enjoy the RT. dave

[Tobe]

Thanks to all for the great advice and humor. It's really nice to know there is a knowledge base out there that I can tap when I need seasoned advice. I will contribute when I can. I went shopping today and I've got plenty to keep me occupied for a few nights in the garage. Gotta tell ya, a visit to the BMW dealer is much more pleasant to me than a trip to the Harley shop. No endless racks of leather bras and t-shirts and a lot less attitude.

 

I'm doing all the fluids and a few other things, but I'm going to hold off on the valves and TB synch for now. I haven't even driven the bike yet and I would really like a frame of reference before I do it so I know for sure that what I did made a positive difference. If the engine doesn't feel right on the first ride I want to be sure it wasn't something I did wrong.

 

Slyder_Steve, I liked your suggestion. I ran it by my wife and she didn't like it as well as I did. I've got a TV in the garage... That will have to do for now.

 

Bologna and Dave, is there much in the region going on for BMW riders? Rides, gatherings, etc?

 

Again, thanks much to all!

 

Tobe

 

 

[Dave R1100RT]

Tobe - good approach to your maintenance for now.

You could check out ... a Minnesota BMW club

www.bmwmocm.com

They have some local rides/events.

And of course a ride to Aerostitch in Duluth is always a nice shopping trip.

www.aerostich.com

and if you want to do some longer rides...check out

www.glmc.org

enjoy....

soon we can ride again.....just keep thinking that...

[yaron]

 

 

There you go.......sounds daunting but really isn't. A good Clymer manual and a copy of the BMW CD (you can find a download on line for free!!!) plus docs and wisdom on this board will help you do ALL of the above fairly painlessly

 

Where can i get the free on line manual for my new r1150rt?

thank's

yaron

[lvnvbiker]

Shavu'a Tov and welcome to the site! I hope that you get as much from it as I have over the time I've been here. As to your bike and the shifting, these motos like to rev alot and will love you for doing it. What I have found is that mine likes to be in the 5000 to 7000 range, and my fuel milage is better when I run the bike on the highway at 75mph in 5th gear that at the same speed in 6th. Play around with yours and find what works best for you, as all of these bikes seem to have a different personality and like women they don't all appriciate the same things.

Kol Tuv

[onenun]

I've owned a lot of bikes over the years and also have now an "07 K GT. With all that, my "98 RT is still by far the best bike I have ever owned. When I mount her I feel like "now I'm home". Enjoy your new RT, she's really going to grow on (with) you.

[Tobe]

I've owned a lot of bikes over the years and also have now an "07 K GT. With all that, my "98 RT is still by far the best bike I have ever owned. When I mount her I feel like "now I'm home". Enjoy your new RT, she's really going to grow on (with) you.

 

I was on the fence whether to get a K GT or a R RT. Glad I made the decision I did.