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Lubed/Cleaned starter clashing again after a month, now what?


KDeline

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Only a month after I disasembled/cleaned/lubed the starter it is sticking/clashing again in the cooler mornings. I got as far as removing the clip and pulling out the whole shaft, and working on it, I don't think pulling anything else apart on it would make a difference. At this point I have no idea what to do or is it time for a new or rebuilt one?

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KDeline, you might want to check for damaged teeth on the flywheel.. Remove both spark plugs then place the trans in high gear & use the rear wheel to turn the engine over.. Inspect the flywheel teeth all the way round..

 

 

 

 

Twisty

 

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Would that make a difference in the cool mornings? It only happens then.

 

KDeline, possibly but not definitively.. Lower cranking voltage or stiffer oil/grease in the starter could cause less robust starter drive engagement or a stiffer engine could place more load on partially engaged teeth..

 

Not saying it is just saying to verify the flywheel tooth condition to eliminate that..

 

 

Twisty

 

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Does it turn over a little and/or "stick" like it isn't spinning fast enough to turn over?

Do you have a DMM? If you do, a simple check is to monitor the drop in battery voltage when you hit the starter. If it does the "sticking" scenario and it drops below 6 volts, it could

well be the dreaded 'detached magnet' scenario found on the earlier 1100 Valeo starters.

If you don't have a DMM, a simpler check is to look at your headlight when you hit the starter button, if it dims right down, could well be the starter magnet.

 

If you want to save a few bob and like stripping down your starter motor ( :eek:), go HERE and just buy a new "can". This is the round body that contains the magnets.

 

FYI - I didn't feel like doing that...I just bought a new starter!

 

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If you don't have a DMM, a simpler check is to look at your headlight when you hit the starter button, if it dims right down, could well be the starter magnet.

 

fortunatly of unfortunatly, The R1100's have a loadshed relay, disabling the headlight when the starter is used. this makes this test not usable. the dash lights (oil neutral etc) do work, so you could look at them, but since they don;t draw a lot of power, its less significant.

 

HTH, Daniël

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Pull the starter and bench test it. sounds like a bad bendix. New starters can be had on ebay for a little over a hundred bucks. a bad battery ground cable can give similar results. likewise with a bad connection.

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You can take it to an automobile "battery and electric" place, where they rebuild starters and alternators. They can test it, and if necessary, rebuild it for a small sum of money. Or if you have to buy a new "can", they can swap your old rotor, renew brushes, etc., and give you a warranty.

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