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No start after tail in the air


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I have two problems on my '98 R1100RS. They may be related. I am putting the bike back together after getting the transmission rebuilt. Clutch, trannie, neutral switch, gear indicator switch, swingarm, et al back on. Put battery in. Put the fuel tank on, and plugged up the elec connection. Clock on RID shows time. Turn key on. Battery light, Neutral light, oil pressure light, both ABS lights flashing together, fuel pump cycles. No gear indication, no fuel guage, no temp guage. Nothing happens when I push the starter button - nothing. Clutch in and try it. Nothing. Cycle the key a few times. Nothing. Now the fuel pump no longer cycles when I turn the key on. Go to bed cuz it's late, and I am now feeling depressed because I no longer feel all knowing.

Next morning: Still doesn't work. Same as last night. No fuel pump at key on, nothing happens when I hit the starter, RID still the same. First thing I thought of was the sidestand switch, since I am reasonably sure the RID is disabled if the sidestand is deployed. Maybe not, but nonetheless I played with that a bit. Nothing changes. Cut the wires to the sidestand and twist them together. Nothing changes - no start, no fuel pump whine at key on. Remove fuel pump connector and clean it, even though it doesn't look dirty. No change.

Now the second problem: I have found a connector that I don't know what it connects to. Three wires (Br/Y, G/Y, W/B) terminating in a 90 degree wire connector with a wire spring release (like on the fuel injectors and the elec connection to the purge valve that is behind the rear plastic on the left side that controls the evap canister). When I got the bike it already had a canisterectomy, so I don't know if it was involved in that, but I don't think so, since the purge valve still has its connection attached.

I don't remember disconnecting this guy. The connector comes out of the wire harness right next to the fuse box, and the wire is probably 5 inches long, so it can't go far. The connector is currently lying unused at the top of the rear shock tunnel since that is where it seems to be happy. According to my wiring diagram, this wire combo is to the CO potentiometer, and I have no idea where that would be - unless it has something to do with the coding plug.

Are problems 1 and 2 related? Maybe. Don't know. Seems too much of a coincidence, but I can't see anyplace to connect that plug.

Hep me, pleez.

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If I remember correctly from other posts, the sidestand switch wire has something funny about color coding. You have to use the white?? wire?? or something like that?


The CO pot connection may be for bikes that don't have an O2 sensor or a cat. like mine (Canadian model). If so, then it does not get the pot. that goes on the end. There is also a diagnostic connector (for the dealer computer) that sits on top of the rear fender behind the fuse box.

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The connector on the left side is from the canister circuit. If the canister is gone don't worry about it, as it's not causing your starting issue. The other end was probably removed. Just to clarify the connector in question that is hangin' there...It actually is a 2 lug connector, right?


Did you remember to connect the plug on the bottom of the right side of the tank? If you did connect it and reconnect it after using WD-40.

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OK - re: the connector (three wire) on the left side. Looking closer and thinking mo better about it, it is for the CO pot, which the M2.2 doesn't have, therefore it apparently doesn't attach to anything.

The 2 wire is for the canister circuit, and it is still attached where it should be. All of this has nothing to do with the starting, apparently.

BTW - switching all the relays and fuses around didn't do anything, so it apparently isn't a fuse or relay that I can tell.

I just can't think of anything other than clutch and sidestand switch.


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I read your post this morning, and I've been thinking about it all day.


Sounds like a dead ringer for the sidestand switch, but if you shorted out the switch then that doesn't make sense.


The only things that I can think of that can cause the RID to respond that way is the sidestand switch, and the kill switch. (Don't hit me).....you don't have the kill switch off do you?


My other thought goes back to the sidestand switch. When you shorted the wires, did you cut the wires down at the switch or at the connector? Because you might not have a bad switch, it might just be a bad connection. If that is the case, and you shorted the wires down at the switch.......then you would still have a "no-start" condition. If this is the case, trace the wiring up to the connector, disconnect it, and short out the two pins on the bike side of the connector with a paperclip.


I'm just grasping for ideas here

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I know you said the neutral light is on but is the transmission actually in neutral? Not between gears.


Sounds odd to me that the RID won't activate with the sidestand shorted and the transmission in neutral. Might want to check your gear indicator switch to see if it cycling through the numbers.


I used to have a truth table for all this but it has been too many years since I have owned/worked on an oil head.

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"...Might want to check your gear indicator switch to see if it cycling through the numbers..." Tough to do with no RID.


The bike was running perfectly before I pulled the transmission. It seems as though some electrical connection was disconnected, and not reconnected. But the only electrical disconnects that I remember are for the fuel tank, the fuel injectors, the O2 sensor,and, of course, I had to take off the neutral/gear switches at the back of the transmission.

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I got it to wake up by flipping the kill switch about 30 times. I turned the key on, then flipped the killswitch to off about three times, and noticed a flash of backlight in the RID. I kept on cycling it and it finally woke up. Apparently I need to open the right switchgear up and clean it out.


Thanks for your good thoughts...Now to put the swingarm and rear suspension back on, and I should be good to go.

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Woohoo....always makes ya feel better when you find the problem and realize your not crazy :grin:



Its strange how screwball unrelated failures always seem to happen during bigger projects. I fought for months with one of my cars that had an occational no start conditon. It also liked to go completely dead while cruising at highway speed......no engine, no lights, nothing. Push in the clutch, turn the key off, back on, and popping the clutch would usually cause it to all come back to life. This all started happening right after I replaced the timing belt and water pump, which required ripping the whole front of the motor apart. It turns out that I had a completely unrelated crappy connection in the steering column that was causing the issue, but I spent hours and hours going over the front of that motor trying to figure out what I screwed up.



Glad your back on the road :thumbsup:

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