Used RT- Best " Bang for the Buck" ?

[jeffg47]

I'd like to add a third bike to the stable and the RT has caught my interest. My K1200GT is a blast to ride but somewhat uncomfortable after a few hours. Is there a model year that is preferable over others in the used market? I know, for example, that Harleys had cam bearing problems in 2000 etc and was curious if the RT had a bad year and would thus be a poor choice considering the availability of used bikes. Thanks in advance for the input.

Jeff

[johnlt]

I can't speak for the 1100s but for the 1150s, I'd recommend a 2004 because they had the twin spark which really helped the "surging" issue. I had an 03 which was a single spark and never had a surging issue so it is not universal but well documented.

[simon999]

i have a july 2003 twin spark RT.....top bike !!

[John Bentall]

What approaches have you taken so far to make the GT more comfortable?

The RT may have a more upright riding position but you will probably hate the motor after a smooth 4-cylinder. How about a Honda ST1300 - they're comfortable.

If you are determined to have an RT, the preceived wisdom is probably to go for a 2007 model year without the electric servo-assisted brakes.

[tallman]

What year GT?

If After '05 it sits very much like an RT IMO.

[lvnvbiker]

You can practicly steal any year you'd like these days. Looks wise the 1150 IMO is the best of the bunch, but HP, and update wise of course the 1200 "fixed" everything that was "wrong" with the 1150 according to everyone that I have spoken with that have had both. A good low mile 1200 for under 12000 is doable as is a good low mile 1150 for sub 10k and possibly in the 7-9k range.

This economy is a windfall for bike shopping, but the reasons you can get one as cheaply as you can tend to suck...

[bobbybob]

What approaches have you taken so far to make the GT more comfortable?

The RT may have a more upright riding position but you will probably hate the motor after a smooth 4-cylinder. How about a Honda ST1300 - they're comfortable.

If you are determined to have an RT, the preceived wisdom is probably to go for a 2007 model year without the electric servo-assisted brakes.

 

I agree with John B. re. the 2007 & up models, but disagree re.the twin vs. four cylinder. I came from an FJR1300, and I really liked it's smooth power--but I really don't miss the bike. It was kind of soul-less. The RT has "character" and is as quick as anyone really needs--and is oh-so-comfortable!

[Haynes]

Our local dealers can't get enough of the twin spark 1150RTs. They are only on the shop floor for a matter of days before they're gone. It' a very popular bike.

All who own a 1200RT will recommend one as it is surely an improvement the 1150. I own an 1150 twin spark and for me the 1200 is not a big enough improvement to warrant an upgrade.

Try both. It comes down to value for money and what you are prepared to pay.

One thing you might consider is that the 1200 comes with a CANBUS system and it is a little less friendly to you when tinkering with the electrics.

[boatzo]

I love my 99 1100 RT. Simple brake system, if properly tuned, doesn't surge. Not the most comfortable bike I have ever owned, but an after market seat and sport boards have helped. Very easy to work on and one with limited mechanical abilities can adjust the valves themselves unlike the K1300. Also you can get the best bang for the buck. MHO

[eddd]

I'd agree with an R1100RT. You can get some really good deals on these, no surging issues and they were not burdened with the unnecessarily complicated brakes of the R1150RT.

[smiller]

What year GT?

If After '05 it sits very much like an RT IMO.

Same question here. I'd agree that the previous-generation GT wasn't very comfortable but with a decent seat a late-model GT doesn't give up much if anything to the RT in terms of long-distance comfort, and in some ways is even superior due to the smooth and effortless cruising at speed (makes a big difference in fatigue level for me at the end of a long day.) I do love the character of the 1100 (which I agree is probably the best bang for the buck if cost is an issue) and own one myself, but power-wise any R-bike is going to seem like a tractor if you're used to a GT. It's easy to raise the bars/lower the pegs/etc. on your GT if necessary. What exactly is the issue?

[azkaisr]

I own both a 2002 R1150Rt and a K1200GT. I am going to sell my RT early next year because I just don't ride it all that often compared to the GT. As to the Surge, I don't think it ever was that big a deal to me. The RT is a great Moto. Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.

 

Tom

[Dave_C]

I have an '06, I don't mind the servo brakes. I like everything about the bike. I had a '95 r1100rs, great bike but it surged and the '06 is better in every way. I had the FD replaced under warranty. I fear I am starting to have trouble with the ESA suspension, might want to avoid that option. Otherwise I do feel it is more comfortable than the GT, bigger fairing, better riding position, plenty smooth motor(the GT is a blast, though)

[GlennW]

As others have said, the dual spark (late 2003-2006) are the best value. However, if you find a fantastic deal on a single spark model, there are easy means to overcome the dreaded surging if you are willing to make a few changes to the fuel mapping. Search for "Techlusion" or "cat code plug (CCP)"

[BeemerLover]

+1 to getting a 2007 or later to avoid the servo brakes. Dropped a rental '06 R1200RT be3cause of them. I have an '07, no problems.

 

I agree with the others.... make your current bike comfortable.

 

 

[Skywagon]

I have a 05 yes 05 1150RT. It had comfort problems until I changed the seat and added bar extenders. My only complaint is leg room and I only have a 30 in stretch. I can get the seat high enough to give me more leg room, but then I can't even tip toe; therefore I leave it in the center position. Get a dual spark for sure. Better mileage, no surge.

 

I love the servo assisted brakes. I think they are great. Very sensitive and very powerful.

 

 

[Morrie]

I would advise you not to buy an early 02 1150RT. The first 800 or so had a hair-trigger ABS system which made smooth stops very difficult. BMW de-tuned the ABS in mid model year, but refused to retrofit the early bikes. You can find the VIN numbers on the web. I had one of these early bikes and got rid of it because of the touchy ABS. Be aware also, that all 1150RTs had a fully-linked system, making it impossible to use the rear brake independently. This was a serious flaw for those of us trained to drag the rear brake in slow riding. This system was only used on the 1150RTs. BMW abandoned it on subsequent models.

 

 

[SWB]

I own an 1150 twin spark and for me the 1200 is not a big enough improvement to warrant an upgrade.

 

I pretty much felt that way vis-a-vis my R1100RT-P. I had both the 1100 and the "new" (2005) 1200 for a while, and for about 60 days and a couple 1000 miles, I wasn't really sure I liked the 1200. But then it clicked for me. You'd think one ride and you'd know everything you needed to know, but they are different bikes, and if you liked your R1150RT a lot, it takes a while to adjust.

 

That was my impression, at least.

 

To the point of this thread: I'd take a 2005 (R1200) RT over any 1150 any day of the week. I might pick up a 1150 GS - have been leaning that way lately - due to cost considerations, but the R1200 powertrain, suspension (ESA), and the ergos of the R1200RT makes the 1200 a better ride. The only thing I noticed that I didn't like is lower body wind protection; the R11xxRT bikes definitely have better protection than the R1200RT from the waist down. I think that BMW did a much better job with the upper fairing, windshield, and general upper body protection for the R1200RT series, but I still want an after market screen (on my shopping list - eventually). The factory seats on all BMW RT's flat out suck.

[BeemerLover]

Jeff, SWB's post reminded me..... some choose not to get the ESA suspension system. The reason is that you will probably get used to only one position and keep it there and the fact that the cost of replacing it when the shocks wear out is horrendous. I have ridden both and do not miss it. But some who ride two up appreciate the convenience of being able to adjust quickly between one and two up.

 

 

[ElevenFifty]

'04 1150RT - 95,000 miles - only routine maintenance + new stick coils and bronze bushings to replace pivot bearings.

 

Riding comfort achieved with Sargent seats and Hyperpro lowered shocks.

 

I have ridden the 1200GT and grinned from ear to ear - hell of a bike!

 

BUT - The RT handles the twisties and the slab as fast as I want to go. The ABS system has never bothered me though I will plumb it out when/if the pump fails before I do. And the BIGGEST advantage or the RT - the reason I will keep it and would buy another just like it - is the ease on maintenance. I'm the only one who has laid a wrench to it for the past 65000 miles.

[John in VA]

Post '05 RT is just too sweet and comfortable to pass up. Truly great motor. '07 and later dumped the unnecessarily complicated and noisy (but good) brakes. Stock seat stinks, as do the stock shocks, but that's fixable.

[scotboxer]

Nor do theey have a clutch slave cylinder to go belly up! Go for a late model 1100. 99-00

[ully211]

Absolutely agree with SWB. Put 60K on my '02 and LOVED IT! But now after 11K on my '09 RT, I love it EVEN MORE in every regard!!

 

Especially the sitting position as I can now ride with feet on pegs alone for extended periods (not the elf pegs) without it bothering my right knee (arthritis). that was NOT the case on my '02!!

[Selden]

1999 Boston Green. Classic.

[AviP]

1100RT is the way to go. Easy brakes and maintenance. It keeps getting complicated every following model. 1150RT adds way too much ABS stuff, and 1200RT complicates final drive maintenance.

[LDHack]

Final drive has been the major issue for long and far travel with BMW, especially during riding like IronButt. For the 1150RT, the FD crown bearing was increased in size somewhere at the end of the '02 series. I have an '03 RT with 125k on it. I have the FD oil tested periodically for AL and FE, and it's doing just fine.

 

There were a lot of FD failures on the 1200's during last Iron Butt Rally. The BMW FD problem continues for that kind of long riding.

 

I like the ABS, it's saved my butt. I also ride it a lot on loose pavement, including loose gravel, so I don't find it to be an issue. I've made fast stops (to miss a deer for one) on loose gravel, and it does just fine.

[mr.devinhill]

So I am a NEWBIE... I will be picking up my very first motorcycle soon. Please keep in my mind I have never operated a motorcycle ever.... Is this too much bike for a beginner and did I get a good deal?

 

I bought a 2002 BMW R1150RT-p with 69k. miles for $4,615 (includes tax & license)

 

I am not even sure if I posted this in the right area... opps

[smiller]

For the 1150RT, the FD crown bearing was increased in size somewhere at the end of the '02 series. I have an '03 RT with 125k on it.

There was no change in the size of the crown bearing in the oilhead final drive. There was a change in the bearing supplier (FAG to SK) resulting a part number with 17 balls instead of 19, prompting some to think that it was done as some kind of corrective effort, but I think that speculation kind of died down when BMW later went back to the FAG part (indicating the the change probably had more to do with simple parts availability than anything else.)

 

In any event the oilhead final drive issues have less to do with the bearing itself and more to do with the design's reliance on a rather critical preload setting. Setting it wrong (as was done sometimes, even from the factory) will kill the bearing, but properly set up the crown bearing can and does last well into six-figure mileage.

[Morrie]

So I am a NEWBIE... I will be picking up my very first motorcycle soon. Please keep in my mind I have never operated a motorcycle ever.... Is this too much bike for a beginner and did I get a good deal?

 

I bought a 2002 BMW R1150RT-p with 69k. miles for $4,615 (includes tax & license)

 

I am not even sure if I posted this in the right area... opps

 

You have chosen a heavy bike for a starter, so I suspect your learning curve will be steeper. It might even be worth picking up a cheap, light bike for a trainer and keeping the RT parked for a while. Do consider the MSF program even if your state doesn't require it for a license. (I'm not sure there are any states like that anymore.) Either MSF or a private motorcycle school and keep in mind that you never stop learning. See if you can get a track day near you. It's an excellent way to learn your machine without the menace of cars nearby. Pick up a copy of David Hough's Street Strategies" and read it carefully. Do a lot of parking-lot practice and keep away from city traffic until you have lots more experience. In fact Hough, even with his experience,recommends avoiding cities altogether.

 

If the RTP bike is in good condition, that sounds like a pretty good price to me. If it was a California RTP it will have the linked brake system modified. That modification, in my opinion, made it a better bike.

 

 

 

 

[mr.devinhill]

Thank you!

[Caddis]

mr.devinhill, everyone is different, but personally I can't imagine starting out on such a big and heavy bike. I know some people do it, but yikes, that's a big bike for a beginner. I really like my RT now, but when I first got my license, it would have been way too heavy and powerful for getting used to street riding (I had dirt bike experience in the past, but it had been a long time).

 

I started on a Yamaha 350 dual-sport, and then moved to an F650GS. At first, even the 650 felt like a huge, heavy bike to me. After I was comfortable with that, I moved to the 1150RT. In comparison, the 650 seemed like such a "cute, fun little bike". The point is that I am really glad that I started smaller and moved up slowly, rather than all at once.

 

So Morrie's comment about finding a cheap, light bike as a trainer sounds like a good idea to me.

 

And if the MSF rider training course isn't required in your state, I would definitely recommend it, anyway.

 

Let us know what you end up doing...

[John in VA]

So I am a NEWBIE... I will be picking up my very first motorcycle soon. Please keep in my mind I have never operated a motorcycle ever.... Is this too much bike for a beginner and did I get a good deal?

 

Deal is good, but it's too much bike for a never-operated-a-motorcycle-ever beginner IMO.

[Boone60]

Mr.devinhill,

 

Please be very careful, I wouldn't reccomend a RTP for a beginner. Think carefully about picking up another smaller bike to learn on.

[mr.devinhill]

Yeah I kinda figured it was a lot of bike for a beginner... I went for it because it was the only bike I sat on that felt comfortable and lets face it they look really cool. I am about 6'4" so being comfortable seemed absolutely necessary.

 

Out the door with the gear and the bike and courses I am nearing $6k and can't really turn around and buy another motorcycle because I simply can't afford it.

 

Some other reasons I bought this bike was because it seemed responsible, really low mileage, great reviews, safety extras, storage, comfort...

I suppose I'll try to figure something out... maybe I could make RTP training wheels! Just kidding lol!

 

 

[Selden]

Out the door with the gear and the bike and courses I am nearing $6k and can't really turn around and buy another motorcycle because I simply can't afford it.

I hope "all the gear" means helmet, gloves, boots, and armored clothing, which should set you back about $1000 for decent gear; this is a lot less than orthopedic surgery, skin grafts, or physical therapy. And, as others have suggested, MSF training is especially important for a new rider like you.

 

It sounds like you have your heart set on RTP, although you haven't actually purchased it yet. At your size, I think a used KLR650 (~$2000) is a better choice, but purchases like this include many factors, the most important of which is what makes you happiest. Good luck with your new baby, whatever it is.

 

[bootzilla]

Yeah I kinda figured it was a lot of bike for a beginner... I went for it because it was the only bike I sat on that felt comfortable and lets face it they look really cool.

 

It is all relative. Feeling comfortable is a big plus, and as long as you understand that the bike is big (which it appears you do) and are willing to be patient and responsible, you'll be fine.

[ExGMan]

Having made the switch from an F650GS to the R1200RT this Fall, I found the additional hundred pounds to be very intimidating at first. I managed to get 500+ miles on the bike until the snow/salt drove me off the Boston roads until next Spring. My view is that the handling of the RT is very reassuring when the bike is moving at anything above 3 mph. Under that and when coming to a stop, I find I have to be very cautious. I also find that I'm very deliberate now, and think everything through, e.g checking the sidestand twice when getting off. At 6'4" with a 34" inseam, I can flat-foot the bike, so I have a stable platform when stopped. Even so, wet leaves on the driveway gave me a scary moment this Fall.

 

I own and have read all three of David Hough's books, and practice low-speed manuevering at the end of every ride. I've already made plans for the MSF ERC in the Spring.

[mr.devinhill]

UPDATE:

 

I took what you guys posted very seriously and decided to buy a smaller bike to learn on... After much searching I found a 1991 Suzuki GS500E w/ 24k orig miles (i think it has been dropped/no salvage title tho) which I purchased for $600. Let the learning begin.

 

ps- I will be picking up the BMW early march when I pay it off only 1,000 togo! so I have some time to practice.

[Caddis]

Nice. I think that is a smart move, and you will have a great time learning on it.

[Boone60]

That Suzuki sounds like a fun bike.

[John in VA]

UPDATE:

 

I took what you guys posted very seriously and decided to buy a smaller bike to learn on... After much searching I found a 1991 Suzuki GS500E w/ 24k orig miles (i think it has been dropped/no salvage title tho) which I purchased for $600. Let the learning begin.

 

Good decision and good bike. Let the learning and fun begin!

[Urban Surfer]

UPDATE:

 

I took what you guys posted very seriously and decided to buy a smaller bike to learn on... After much searching I found a 1991 Suzuki GS500E w/ 24k orig miles (i think it has been dropped/no salvage title tho) which I purchased for $600. Let the learning begin.

 

Good decision and good bike. Let the learning and fun begin!

 

I'm glad you did that. I started on a new 750 Honda, and it was too big and heavy for a starter bike for me. I had no Idea how to ride it when the salesman pushed it out the door! I wish I had known back then. I finally crashed it into a left turner.

[lvnvbiker]

Good decision! I started out on small dirt bikes myself but had a few of the smaller Japanese bikes that were fun as hell. A 500 four Honda, a GS550 and then GS750 with a series of 2 strokers in 125 to 750ccs thrown in. The Suzuki will treat you well and when(if) you decide to get a bigger bike you will have developed some skills along the way.

[mr.devinhill]

That's the thing I have a 2002 R1150RTP on the way so I have to be ready to ride it. Realistically and responsibly I probably shouldn't touch the RTP for several months after getting it.

 

 

[lvnvbiker]

Ride whatcha got. The RTP is just a variation on the skills you need for the Suzi and a bit heavier. Take your time and relax you'll be ok.

[Selden]

GS500E is a great starter bike for someone your size. Don't get on the RTP until you have dropped the GS500E at least once. Dropping a bike isn't a matter of if but when (usually at very slow speed). Sooner or later, it happens to all of us.

[mr.devinhill]

UPDATE!!

 

Hey everyone! I took delivery of my 2002 r1150rtp last! Its totally a decent bike in need of some TLC.... I finally rode it tonight and it is awesome it took only a moment to feel comfortable on it. Rides like a dream.

 

- do the brakes on all r1150rt make that sound? I really can't describe it well but I'll try.... ehemm.... I imagine it is the sound mechanical mice would make if you squeezed them...

lol

 

Thank you everyone!

[boatzo]

Congrats on your new ride. You will find, in time, that you have made a great decision. The noise you refer to is normal. That is the ABS system doing a self test. You will get that when first starting off and also after riding for a long time with out stopping, it kicks in after a stop and going again.

 

Be concerned if you don't hear it.

[Paul Mihalka]

Congrats on the "new" bike! The sound you hear is the brake servo and is completely normal. You'll get used to it or wear ear plugs