Battery Tenders-to use or not to use...

[gmarktbone]

I bought my current (yuasa) battery two years ago, and although I don't think it has ever had convincing start up power for this model bike, it has worked fine. Last week, however, the bike started doing the whole "hiccup on start up and reset the clock to 00:00 thing" that it did right before the battery failed in 07. I do not use a battery tender because I am able to ride all year, and I figured that riding the bike regularly was better for the battery than plugging it in everyday.

 

SO... should I use a battery tender? If so, is the battery too far gone to start now?

[Haynes]

Too far gone? Who knows?

The battery tender only ensures that the battery will be as charged as it can be (given its condition).

It does not repair batteries nor do I believe that it significantly lengthens a battery's life if the bike is ridden regularly.

I use one on my 650GS that is in the process of being rebuilt and is only started monthly. The charger might help in preventing a dormant battery from getting too much build up on the plates.

If I stored my bike in very cold conditions I wouldn't leave them without a battery tender.

[moshe_levy]

If I stored my bike in very cold conditions I wouldn't leave them without a battery tender.

 

Actually, heat is what accelerates self discharge and reduces "shelf life" - the time it takes for a battery to self-discharge just sitting there. Cold conditions actually increase shelf life, which is why you see people storing their household batteries in the fridge when they're not in use. The happy medium is +25C, the industry standard for measuring shelf life. All advertisements for battery performance generally are measured at +25C.

 

-MKL

[NonComp]

I have a standard automotive battery charger that has a 2 amp charge cycle. Periodically, I put the charger on each of the batteries during the winter to top them up. I don't like the idea of constant charging.

 

I note that while my battery charger has an automatic cutoff that is supposed to kick out once the battery is charged, it is never activated on my motorcycle batteries. So generally, I just charge them overnight and then remove the charger.

[Dan M]

SO... should I use a battery tender? If so, is the battery too far gone to start now?

 

The best way to tell if your battery is OK is to charge it fully and have it tested.

 

I use Tenders on everything when I'm not going to ride for a week or more. Batteries typically last me 5-6 years.

[philbytx]

Well, being as I am entirely anal...I keep both bikes and both cages on BT's year 24/7 year round. Except when not riding/driving them of course...

 

 

[4wheeldog]

The thing that kills conventional lead acid batteries the quickest is letting the electrolyte level get low. This is one of the major advantages to AGM batteries.

I use a battery tender type device only when the bike has not been run for more than 3 weeks, putting it on the night before. Constant charging, even at low levels, tends to evaporate the acid. My last battery was replaced proactively after 6 years. It still was up to snuff, but it is one less failure to worry about on the road. YMMV. Good luck!

[too old to care]

My 2-cents worth (having worked with power wheelchair batteries for many years), from my experience what kills a power chair battery (deep-cycle) is letting them set discharged for a long time or running them down too far. When this happens the lead sulfate that forms on the plate’s walls during discharge hardens and does not reform on the plates as lead and the sulfur does not return to sulfuric acid during charging. This chemical change happens every time the battery is discharged and recharged. Eventually, the lead sulfate builds up so thick it acts as an insulator, or worse shorts out the plates.

 

Quality deep-cycle batteries (AGM, GEL, and open wet cell) can be fully discharged (11.8 VDC or so depending upon battery type) to full charge (12.8 VDC) hundreds of times if done daily or every few days. However, let then sit discharged for a period of time and they may lose much, if not most, of their capacity to hold a charge.

 

I know motorcycle and car batteries are not deep-cycle, but they still go through the same charging process so I keep a battery tender on my bike’s battery if I do not plan on riding it within a week. My batteries also last many years.

 

[g_frey]

while I have a battery tender I never use it unless the bike won't start. I get about 4 years out of a motorcycle battery at least and up to 7 years at most. Scooter batteries I get about 2-3 years out of.

[Haynes]

.....Actually, heat is what accelerates self discharge and reduces "shelf life" - the time it takes for a battery to self-discharge just sitting there. Cold conditions actually increase shelf life, which is why you see people storing their household batteries in the fridge when they're not in use. The happy medium is +25C, the industry standard for measuring shelf life. ..... -MKL

 

I leave the tender on because of the higher cranking loads and potentially harder starting in cold conditions.

I was unaware of recommended storage temperatures. Thanks for the good info.

[tomk99r11]

Put the BT on a timer so it only runs at times and for durations you think are appropriate. FWIW though, I leave mine on all the time and have never had a battery last less than 5 years regardless of how often that particular bike is ridden.

[nrp]

I understand the Battery Tender (and BT Junior) brand have a logic in them that refuse to switch on the charger unless there is at least +8 V sensed when first connected up. That's why they can't be used to charge a stone dead battery.

 

This feature also protects everything in the event the user gets the polarity reversed.

 

The BTs also go to a very low (or zero?) current when the charging voltage reaches ~13.8 V, but kick on again only when the battery voltage drops below some set point. This makes it so they can be left on indefinitiely without overcharging.

 

There is a bunch of logic in them to minimize the chance of overcharging. The state of this logic is given by the LEDs on the cover, and how/if they flash.

 

 

[philbytx]

Ahhhh! Logic...

Yup! Always seemed logical for me to use them

[gmarktbone]

I just always figured that if I rode the bike regularly, I wouldn't need a BT. Most of the time, my car batteries last several years without any type of tender/charger. The battery on my RT has never seemed like it had the "umph" to really turn the engine over in a convincing manner. I think these things need larger, car-like, batteries.

[NonComp]

I can't think of the brand name, but I recall reading about a charging/maintenance system for motorcycles that has a function that the manufacturer claims can exercise a battery to reduce sulfate buildup by automatically discharging and recharging the battery to recondition it. Does anyone remember the name of the product?

[philbytx]

Mark,

I do have a proper battery load tester plus a DMM and monitor my batteries regularly and used BT's for years now.

 

FYI - My BMW cage battery (wet cell) lasted 7 years and still tested out well under load. My original RT wet cell was 6 years old when I replaced it and it was still in good shape, so was my R1100R. I actually replaced them all with sealed/AGM units and keep them hooked up to BT's.

 

Deb's Subie still has its original wet cell battery in it and it is now 5 years old and checks out great.

 

 

[tomk99r11]

My use of the BT is multiple bikes and perviously had to travel often for several weeks at a time, often over a month. Never any issue with apparent shortened battery life, usually getting 5-6 years. I still suggest using a timer if one is concerned about damaging the battery especially on a bike that will be idled for several weeks. IMO the concern is unfounded in my experience but to each his own.

[tallman]

I think thre are several factors.

First, and very important, the initial charge needs to be complete before using battery.

Second, they do discharge over time. This results eventually in a reduction so even when you recharge the battery it doesn't hold that level as long.

Over time, the net loss effectively puts that battery out of the game.

I use the BT Jr almost all of the time at home.

Not when on the road.

Sometimes when I plug it in it goes right to green, sometimes after the same ride and conditions it is red indicating the need to charge.

Because of this I don't assume that regular riding is sufficient.

5+ years and then replace is my norm.

Before using this proocess, I had hit and miss results, sometimes as short as a year of battery life.

YMMV.

[sardineone]

I'm doing the same as Glen and have had generally good results. Only problem is to remember that monthly or bi-monthly charge. I have gone a bit longer on occaision in the Winter. I recently installed my 2nd battery on my 06' R1200ST that gets ridden year round with some down time in the coldest months or when snow on the ground. This time I bought an unserviced AGM battery from Walmart. Not hard to setup but, a bit time consuming. The time for the acid to sit before charge and the initial charge times were long enough that I doubt if all outlets go to the trouble to do it correctly. I'll see this time how long the battery lasts as I followed the instructions to the T. BTW my 2000 Toyota Sienna still has it's original battery made by Johnson controls. Shows something about how long a good battery can last.

[11101110]

I have a BT for my bike but also a "conditioner" that uses high frequencies to pound away at the sulfates. I could hook it up to the bike but did not like the idea of a varing high freq ripple wantering around the electrical system on the bike.

[Rinkydink]

I work in the telephony field (telephone central office) and we "float" our (wet-cell) backup batteries 24/7 @ the optimum recommended voltage. They are discharged/stressed once a year up to the coup de fouet as required. Granted they are housed in a constant 76 degree F. enviroment and therefore not exposed to the same extreme temp range as a motorcycle/car battery but they last well over 20 years. I personally vote yes on the BT.

[nrp]

I recall reading about a charging/maintenance system for motorcycles that has a function that the manufacturer claims can exercise a battery to reduce sulfate buildup by automatically discharging and recharging the battery to recondition it. Does anyone remember the name of the product?

Try barkeraircraft.com

 

It is a circuit board w 2 leads connected to the battery that exercises the heck out of a sulphated battery. Only like $25. It might not be real friendly to any electronics as the instantaneous current and voltage output is pretty high - especially when the battery is sulphated.

[NonComp]

I think that it was the OptiMate charger that I read about:

 

http://www.probike.co.uk/it090004.htm

[nrp]

I think that it was the OptiMate charger that I read about:

 

http://www.probike.co.uk/it090004.htm

Probably has similar logic.

 

I like though how they control both charging current and voltage. (should be one or the other but not both!)

 

BTW - Battery desulphators should not be used when any electronics are also connected in the same circuit.

[Dick]

Could it be the Battery Minder?

[simon999]

try an optimate 4 - ok for gel batteries too.